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Forums » Starting Out » Property Analysis or "Is this a good deal?"

Property Analysis or "Is this a good deal?" Subscribe to Property Analysis or "Is this a good deal?"

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· Dayton, OH


This question has been asked so many times that I have decided to write up a crash course in analyzing financial statements. You don't need to be a financial wiz to invest in real estate, but you really need to understand a few basic concepts. We even have a tool on this website that will do analysis for you and I will show how you can use this tool to make a decision.

Fortunately we have a sample property report that has already been created. So if you would like to follow along at home you can print out the report and view each page in detail and follow along with the discussion.

The first page of the report (Property Summary) tells you what the basic facts are that you used to create this report. This well tell you where the property is, what kind of financing you will use to buy the property, what kind of profit you can earn, the cash flow you will receive, and the assumptions about your local real estate market. Everything that you put into the web input form will be here and this is a good way to remember which property you were evaluating.

A lot of people won't do analysis because " I don't know what to expect" or " I don't know what is reasonable" . Then ask someone who does! There are knowledgable people on this website and there are also knowledgable people at your local REI club. The truth is that no one knows for 100% fact what will happen in the future so you just need some educated guesses. The key thing is that you want to use the SAME estimates if you are comparing similar properties.

At this point I want to stop and go off on a minor rant:

CASH FLOW IS NOT THE SAME THING AS NET INCOME
CASH FLOW IS NOT THE SAME THING AS NET INCOME
CASH FLOW IS NOT THE SAME THING AS NET INCOME

Sorry about that, but I needed to catch your attention. Most new investors do not understand the difference so here it is: Cash Flow is what your bank statements say at the end of each month (money in / money out). Net Income is an " accounting" number that shows how much profit you're making in a year. The difference between these are because of things that you either don't pay or don't collect. For example, you get to depreciate your building for tax purposes (Net Income decreases), but you aren't actually paying any cash for this expense (Cash Flow is unchanged). Another example: the value of your building will increase over time (Net Income increases), but you don't get paid for this increase because you didn't actually sell the building (Cash Flow is unchanged).

End of rant... now back to the analysis!

When you look at the sample property you might want to change some assumptions. Maybe you would want a conventional loan instead of an interest only loan. Maybe you can rent the property for a little more. Maybe you think property will appreciate by 15% each year for the next 5 years. It's a lot of fun to play around with your assumptions to see how a deal might be more or less profitable, but don't ever change your assumptions to " make a deal work" . The numbers are what they are and you should find deals that fit in with your assumptions, not assumptions that make your deal look good.

The second page of the report (Financial Ratios) give you a quick and dirty evaluation of the property. These will give you a quick estimate of the property's value as well as the risk you will take.

Perhaps you have heard people say that " rent should be more than 1% of gross monthly rent?" This is the same thing as saying " the Gross Multiplier should be less than 8.33" . Yes I know the Gross Multiplier is less useful and more confusing, but it is one way of comparing sales price to value.

The Cap Rate is much more commonly used and is a better indication of value. If you had to rely on just one piece of information to make your decision then this might be it because it tells you how much yearly income you will get compared to the price you pay for the property.

Debt coverage is an important measure of risk. Ideally you want debt coverage to be more than 1.00 because this means you have positive cash flow.

Ownership percentage is another important measure of risk. The more that you own of the property the more that you have to lose. If I put 20% down a property (20% ownership) and I default on my loan then I will lose a lot more than if I had only put 5% down on the property.

For our demo property we see that the Gross Multiplier is quite high (17.05) and the Cap Rate is 3.73 (I don't know if this is the market rate for this area or not). The Debt Coverage Ratio is less than 1 for the first 5 years so I know that it will take more than 5 years for me to get cash flow positive on this property. The strangest thing is that the ownership percentage will go from 20 percent up to 40 percent in 5 years; this is peculiar since this is an interest only loan! In any case, to summarize what we have found:

Low rent compared to price
(Average?) income compared to price
Negative cash flow
Large equity position is at risk

If I was looking for a pure rental / cash flow property so that I could quit my job today then at this point I would just move on and look for another property. However, if you are looking at this property over the long haul (more than 5 years) then you can keep looking.

The next page in the report (Annual Property Operating Data) is your budgeted income from the property. Sometimes people will call this the " P & L statement." These numbers will vary a lot from area to area and they might even be different within the same area. The main thing that I notice when I look at this P&L is that there are no management fees at all! Typical management fees range from 8% - 12% of Gross Operating Income. You either pay a management company to work or you would have to pay some of these other expenses.

The Net Operating Income for rental property is very important! If the expenses turn out to be higher than the original estimates then your Net Income will likely be lower than this. In my opinion: if the yearly rent is really 26,400 then I think this property owner is probably going to be closer to $14K net income.

On page 4 (Cash Flow) you get a picture of how much money will go in / out of your bank account. The before tax cash flow for this property is negative for 5 years. 5 years! However, because of the high purchase price you get an extremely large depreciation allowance of $9818. As you see this can decrease your taxable income by quite a lot and depending on your tax bracket your cash flow might even become positive.

BUT BEWARE! If you are not a " real estate professional" then this is considered " passive loss" instead of " active loss" . In year 1 for the demo property there was a taxable income of -$13,147. If you are not a professional then you can only deduct this from your passive income (income from bonds, sale of stock, CD's, etc.). So if you aren't a professional and you don't have passive income then your passive losses don't give you any benefit. Put another way... your After Tax Cash Flow will be exactly the same as your Before Tax Cash Flow (which is negative).

After the first 4 pages you are probably thinking that this property is a total dud. And as I stated before: if your goal is immediate cash flow so that you can go quit your day job then yes this property is a dud! However, page 5 (Rate of Return) shows you how this property might actually be a good investment. And of course I will help you break it down.

The rate of return pages are very, very important for your analysis because it will show you where you need to scrutinize the deal. In case any one wasn't sure you want high rates of return! After all if you were only going to earn 10% (or less) then you could take less risk and invest in the stock market. This analysis will show you where you are creating most of your value and you want to make sure that the estimates supporting your returns are good estimates.

Note that the Rate of return on Loan Reduction for this property is 0%. The buyer of this property is doing an interest only loan so they are not paying down any of the loan principal.

The Rate of Return from Appreciation (30%) is clearly where this property is earning most of the value. Now that you know this you can go back to your assumptions and ask yourself " is this really what I think the appreciation rate will be or will it be higher/lower than this?"

The Rate of Return from Before Tax Cash Flow (BTCF) is -4%. This is moderately important so you might pass over the Net Operating Income assumptions one time to double check those values, but you don't need to scrutinize them. After all... wouldn't you pay -4% if you could get 30%?

Rate of Return from Tax Saving is 4%. But remember that if you are not a real estate professional then you will not be able to get the full value of this return until you sell the property. If you don't sell the property within 20 years you wouldn't get any of this benefit.

Cash on Cash returns are very important if you are trying to build up your real estate empire quickly. If you have a high Cash on Cash return then it enables you to reinvest your money quickly into other properties.

So when we take all of this together we get the profile of the ideal buyer of this property: a real estate professional that already has a lot of cash on hand and believes that this market is going to be hot for the next 5 years. They have a lot of cash on hand and a steady outside income so they don't need to rely on the cash flow from this property while they wait for their big payday. If this describes you then congratulations you just found a good property. If not, then you need to keep looking.

On page 6 (Debt vs. Equity) we get a picture of the property's assets, liabilities, and equity. For those of you that don't know, the basic accounting equation is this:

Assets - Liabilities = Owner's Equity

We're all in the real estate game for Owner's Equity. Equity is the good stuff that we get to keep in our war chest and you want to protect and build up this equity. This is another place where things start to get cloudy for people so I will try to make this simple.

Some people will tell you that a mortgage is a bad thing. Owing money to other people can cause stress (especially if you have trouble making payments). Getting collection calls or a notice of default is not fun!

The reality is that mortgages allow people to spend more money on properties than they otherwise could. This is a two-edged sword. Yes, it opens doors for you and it can get you in the game. On the other hand some people will spend more money on a property simply because " they can" . You probably know someone that has done it... " my bank told me I qualified for a $450K loan so I decided to buy this $450K house" when in all reality this person could get a lesser house for $300K that would be good enough for their family. Now that we have that aside let's look again at the report.

The total mortgage balance is $360K and because this is an interest only loan the balance does not decrease. As long as the value of the property increases (or at least doesn't decrease) then this isn't a problem. However, if the value of this property plummets then you would have to PAY OUT the difference between the loan and value of the property when you sell. Worst case you would have to shell out $360K (100% of the loan).

Then there is the Debt Coverage Ratio, or what I call the " sleep at night" factor. In this case the debt coverage ratio is less than 1.00 which means you won't be able to pay your debt payments with the profits from renting this property. A ratio less than 1.00 makes it " harder to sleep at night" and a ratio higher than 1.00 makes it " easier to sleep at night" . This is why landlords are always harping about positive cash flow!

The rest of the information on the page is mostly obvious, but let me summarize this page once again: debt can be a good thing so long as you are comfortable with the additional risk that comes with it. If you're a cash-hungry investor then it can get you started and it can improve your returns.

The last page (Critical Output Report) takes all of the data from the previous pages and packs it onto one piece of paper. As you become more skilled at evaluating deals you will find that this sheet will tell you what you need to make a financial decision.


Real Estate Consultant · Somerville, Massachusetts


Whew. I need another cup of coffee...

Seriously, you're right; this would answer 50% of the questions on this forum and the others out there. I've been doing this for a while and my fiance is a Harvard Business School grad and I STILL have trouble wrapping my head around this stuff. Thanks for the primer. And, if Rich Dad, Poor Dad would have put this level of detail in the book and said "Hey you! THIS is the kind of "system" you need to have and be intimately familiar with! THIS is what you need to run EVERY SINGLE PROPERTY prospect through!" I think we'd have a lot fewer new investors in way over their heads. Of course, he'd have sold fewer books too--people want fast, easy money. REI is a profession that takes work.

I also appreciate that you highlight the different kinds of buyers and the concept that while this house may not be good if you are Type A person, it may be great if you are Type B--too often it seems like people have their niche and insist it's the only right answer.


· Dayton, OH


Thanks for the positive feedback... so I suppose that this would be a good message to make sticky?

If you have read the analysis from top to bottom and you want to take the next step... then focus on this sentence:

This analysis will show you where you are creating most of your value and you want to make sure that the estimates supporting your returns are good estimates.

Being successful in real estate (or any business) is about creating value. Bird dogs create value by negotiating a good deal. Realtors create value by finding buyers and closing sales. Even biggerpockets.com creates value by providing lots of useful information and a place for like-minded people to network with each other.

Whenever you are looking at a deal you need to ask "how am I going to add value to this deal?" Look at where you create the most value and focus your scrutiny on this area.

In the case of our example property your main source of value is holding on to the property and waiting for it to jump up in price. So if you are going to buy the example property then you have to feel really good about your appreciation estimate. If you are looking at a cash flow rental then scrutinize the net income. If you are a Reatlor then scrutinize the days on market for that property. If you are a real estate guru then scrutinize the difficulty of the material in your book. And so on.



I am new to RE investing, and that did answer some of the questions I had. I vote yes, make it a sticky topic! :D



I think I am doing something wrong. My Internal Rate of Return and Projected Rates of Return are showing up as Infinity (or -Infinity, depending on one large expense that I am not sure if it is the owners or is passed thru to the tenants.)

Why am I getting these infinity numbers?


· Dayton, OH


Educated guess: most likely this is because you have very little invested in the property. If you want to send me a private message with the details of your property then I can give you a better answer.



Short attention span...

I am thinking it is too long and will not get read. I moderate 4 message boards.

But do it. Lets see how popular it gets.



1. Get the COMPS for the area.
2. Check location.
3. Check Condition.
4. Check how's the Real Estate Market - escrow companies will give a good idea if the market is slow, good, or hot.
5. In a slow market be extra careful with your investment
sam12
Good luck



Originally posted by "juzamjedi"
The rate of return pages are very, very important for your analysis ...

But that is the part I am having the most trouble figuring out! How exactly is rate of return defined? Specifically, is the denominator my down payment or my total out-of-pocket expense? Same question for cash-on-cash formulas. I would assume the latter, but I'm not sure. I'm trying to make sure I understand the tool, so I'm trying to re-do all the calculations myself by hand.

I definitely do not understand the "total rate of return." I was thinking it would be:

(total investment results)/(total out-of-pocket expense)

at least for the first year, but that doesn't seem to be right. Also, for the analysis I entered, the total investment result after year 1 was $24K, and after year 2 it was $39K, but both years show a total RoR of 33%. It seems like the "total investment result" after year 2 would have had to have been $48K if the same rate of return continued for both years.

I don't have any formal background in accounting/business/math/etc., so any help anyone can give me in all of this would be great.

Also, how do you use the tool if you buy a property that needs work and its value when you start renting it out is greater than your purchase price + repair costs?

Thanks!

EDIT: OK, on the RoR 33% thing: I think my confusion arises from the "total investment result" calculation. From what I can tell, for years other than year 1, when it calculates "total investment result" by adding the "Unrealized Gains (Equity)" to the "After Tax Cash Flow" it uses the cumulative value for the first, but only the current year for the second. When it calculates the RoR it doesn't do this. Is that correct, and why wouldn't you include cumulative cash in "total investment result?" Thanks again.


· Dayton, OH


I have done the calculations and the truth is that this tool doesn't work the way "traditional" finance tools would work. The traditional finance view is this:

NOI = Revenue (yearly) - Expenses (yearly)
ROI = NOI / Investment (Debt + Down Payment)

The opinion of this tool is that your "rate of return" compares your NOI with the Down Payment only! Their reasoning is basically that if YOU don't invest the money, then it doesn't count towards your investment. I'm simplifying things a bit here so let me know if this doesn't make sense.

EDIT: I realized I didn't answer your EDIT questions. Most likely you will understand when you go to the link above... but the simple answer is that value and equity are "stored" whereas cash flow is the amount of cash going into (or out of) your pocket EVERY YEAR. Every year cash flow starts at 0 and either gets better or worse as the year goes on.



Thanks for the info. It still seems to me that instead of "down payment" it should at least be "down payment + closing costs," because that is really what I am investing, but I do like the tool, and as long as I understand what it's doing, I can interpret the results.



Excellent "crash course in analyzing financial statements"! That's a long read but totally worth it.

This answers many of the questions I get asked by friends looking to get into this type of investing. I hope all the new investors print it out and read it through many times. I know I will surely point my friends to it!



Interesting. I didn't go to harvard either. I just go by Net Operating Income and cap rate. But just don't blindly accept the numbers given to you. Often wise to do your own income and expense statement based on the most current numbers. And then some projections such as if you upped the rents to market value, then what? And do all that if you plan to sell to paint the "future picture" for the new buyer. Like I bought a building off a guy earlier this year. But I don't think he bothered to do any of that. And no he's probably kicking himself because his former investment is up by about 40% in equity alone and this is only 8 months later. Rents are also up by about 30% of what they were when I bought the place. Anyway but getting back to things, like I said, i think most importantly you just need "Net Operating Income". Which tells you how much you have after expenses to service your loans on the place.


· Dayton, OH


I don't know why Harvard is the gold standard instead of IUB... oh, never mind. :oops:

r2d246, you are a great real-world example of creating value. The prior landlord didn't maintain the property... you made some improvements and now your net income is up. Nice!

Anyway but getting back to things, like I said, i think most importantly you just need "Net Operating Income". Which tells you how much you have after expenses to service your loans on the place.

It's even easier than that. If you look at the property analysis report you just need to find the "debt coverage ratio". If it's greater than 1 then you will have enough money for debt payments. Let the tool do the heavy lifting for you... how simple is that?!? :D


Just found your post, juzamjedi, and wanted to say thanks for the "property prospect lesson". Good Stuff!
:D




BUT BEWARE! If you are not a "real estate professional" then this is considered "passive loss" instead of "active loss". In year 1 for the demo property there was a taxable income of -$13,147. If you are not a professional then you can only deduct this from your passive income (income from bonds, sale of stock, CD's, etc.). So if you aren't a professional and you don't have passive income then your passive losses don't give you any benefit. Put another way... your After Tax Cash Flow will be exactly the same as your Before Tax Cash Flow (which is negative).

I'm confused by the statement quoted above. This is the first time I've ever heard that negative income can't be deducted, I always thought that the tax deductions were one of the sought after benefits of real estate investment. What defines "real estate professional"?

thanks in advance!



I think I answered my own question when I found the information below, but feel free to add any important information that is missing...


If you invest in real estate but do not qualify as a "real estate professional" , you are limited to a maximum annual $25,000 realty investment property loss deduction against their ordinary taxable income. This is called the passive loss restriction. This "loss" includes the paper loss created by depreciation.

Another catch. If your annual adjusted income exceeds $100,000, the $25,000 loss deduction gradually phases out. At the $150,000 adjusted income level, the allowable tax loss deduction goes to zero.


Residential Real Estate Broker · Tigard, OR


Originally posted by "juzamjedi"
I don't know why Harvard is the gold standard instead of IUB... oh, never mind. :oops:

r2d246, you are a great real-world example of creating value. The prior landlord didn't maintain the property... you made some improvements and now your net income is up. Nice!

Anyway but getting back to things, like I said, i think most importantly you just need " Net Operating Income" . Which tells you how much you have after expenses to service your loans on the place.

It's even easier than that. If you look at the property analysis report you just need to find the " debt coverage ratio" . If it's greater than 1 then you will have enough money for debt payments. Let the tool do the heavy lifting for you... how simple is that?!? :D

My " debt coverage ratio" shows 5.29 1st year and 5th year it shows 6.86 on a duplex I have in Escrow. This is way above the 1 you mentioned. Does this sound right to you? I do plan to keep the property a few years


Residential Real Estate Agent · Ohio


Larry watch your numbers that is figuring the payment on a 1% pay option ARM you are building negative equity and after about 4 years with the down payment you mentioned your payment just roughly will triple because you will be at the 115% threshold. Try to figure your debt servive on a 30 year amortization and see what it get gets you I am sure it is negative. Watch option arms on a buy and hold and make at least the interest payment. The reduced option is nice if you run into trouble with vacancy or repairs but don't count on making the lowest payment forever.


Residential Real Estate Broker · Tigard, OR


Originally posted by "Ohio Realtor"
Larry watch your numbers that is figuring the payment on a 1% pay option ARM you are building negative equity and after about 4 years with the down payment you mentioned your payment just roughly will triple because you will be at the 115% threshold. Try to figure your debt servive on a 30 year amortization and see what it get gets you I am sure it is negative. Watch option arms on a buy and hold and make at least the interest payment. The reduced option is nice if you run into trouble with vacancy or repairs but don't count on making the lowest payment forever.

Thanks OR. Well isn't that a kick in the pants :( my goal was to buy and hold for 3-7 years then sell. The appreciation has been very good here in Portland Oregon over the last few years. I checked yesterday and even this time of year over the last 12 months it still worked out to 14.4% in that area. Oh, boy!


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