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Ryan Cheung
Pro Member
  • Fort Lee, NJ
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Trafficmaster Allure vs Allure Ultra

Ryan Cheung
Pro Member
  • Fort Lee, NJ
Posted May 22 2018, 08:57

Hi,

I am looking to install vinyl flooring on a 3rd floor unit. After removing the existing carpet, I found that there are only plank subfloors, and no plywood. The subfloor will be secured and nails/staples will be removed, however, it will not be perfectly flat. I have been doing some research online, and have found that vinyl is better than laminate since it is flexible. 

My question is whether the grip strip or interlocking vinyl planks are best for my situation? Will any unevenness cause the interlocking seams to break? Any recommendations or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Mike B.
  • Flipper/Rehabber
  • Yardley, PA
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Mike B.
  • Flipper/Rehabber
  • Yardley, PA
Replied Jun 1 2018, 15:16

@Ryan Cheung - I have not personally run into this issue, but have installed/used LVP.  Sales people at Lumber Liquidators have always advised using a thicker plan (e.g. >7mm) the more uneven or wavy the floor is.  Basically the thicker the LVP (e.g. 12mm), the less likely it will come loose/undone or flex in any manner (because it's thicker).  I've been lucky having level or smooth floors so I've used the 5mm mostly.

Depending on the sqft. of the apt, you could also lay down 1/4" plywood everywhere (glue and screw it down) to add a little more thickness/rigidity and then use a 3-5mm LVP product on top.  However you should weigh the costs of this.  If you're doing all the labor vs. hiring out; what's the cost difference 1/4" ply vs. upgrading and buying 12mm LVP.  I'm sure the install price for LVP is the same.  IF you think you're going to sell in a few years or do something different with the floors you should also consider this.  The higher grade 12mm LVP (in a nice neutral color) should last a long time though so perhaps paying up front for that installed is better.  Up to you and your budget of course

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Ron H.
  • Investor
  • Melbourne, FL
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Ron H.
  • Investor
  • Melbourne, FL
Replied Jun 10 2018, 06:55

The allure ultra that I just installed required a very flat surface.  Any unevenness causes them to unlock.

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Replied Nov 5 2018, 03:01

I have a relative who just installed the Ultra version, and I am thinking of doing the same, so here is what I have found in my research so far:  

Trafficmaster Allure has the grip strip (adhesive strips built in), and the video on Home Depot's website under that particular product shows that you have to use a leveler for any grout lines greater than 1/4" as the planks are flexible and the grout lines (or other defects) will become visible over time. You can re-position it for 15 minutes, but then the bond becomes permanent.  There was a product manual on the page too if you want more info.  These planks are thinner than the Ultra.

The Allure Ultra didn't have a video on that product page, but it does show that it has a different locking mechanism, the easy-drop-and-lock which is a click-lock installation technology.  There is a link to the pdf version of the product manual (see source link below), but here is the info. from page 5 regarding the sub floor:  

"Subfloor preparation: The subfloor surface must be smooth, flat, dry, clean and solid. Carpet staples or adhesive residue must be removed to ensure proper installation. Subfloors should be flat within a tolerance of 1/4" (6 mm) over 10' (3.05 m). Subfloors should not slope more than 1" (2.5 cm) per 6' (1.8 m) in any direction. Voids or humps may prevent allure® from locking properly. Fill large cracks, voids, or grout lines with a cementitious leveling and patching compound. If necessary, grind down high spots. Do not sand, saw, pulverize, chip, bead blast, or dry scrape existing vinyl floor, backing, lining felt, asphalt, "cut back" adhesives or other adhesives as they may contain asbestos fibers and or crystalline silica." (I added the bold for emphasis - safety first!)

2018-11-05 Online Web Source:  https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfIma...

So, it sounds like you would need to do some sub floor work with either one of these.  The Ultra was about $1.00 more per square foot, and looked more like real wood to me.  Just my 2 cents.  Hope this helps.  I know your post was a while ago, but I just starting reading on BiggerPockets a few weeks ago (love it!), and other newbies may still benefit.  Good question!

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Cathie Kovacs
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Stamford, CT
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Cathie Kovacs
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Stamford, CT
Replied Nov 5 2018, 05:57

I opted to skip the cheap stuff and go with a rigid LVP with a thicker wear layer (and lifetime warranty). Rigid floors don’t telegraph subfloor inconsistencies and installation was much easier than than the flopsy, flimsy stuff. I chose Mannington Adura @ $2.25/sq.ft.  Love!