I'm having flooring issues I'm hoping somebody can help with. I'm in the middle of a full remodel and the carpeting and linoleum had to go - one due to pet odors and the other due to age and poor repair. I'm tiling the kitchen, but I'm wanting to go with Coretec for the living and bedroom areas. Here is a link to it:
I have a couple of issues:
1. The salesperson said that installing this on stairs is a tripping hazard. I kinda blinked at him hard when he said this and thought "excuse me? How is this product any better or worse than any other flooring product for tripping? If you install it properly, how is this an issue?" When I questioned him further, he wasn't really able to explain himself. Anybody have experience with Coretec and can comment on whether this product is more of a tripping hazard than any other?
2. When pulling out the old carpet, I got the carpet and a middle "pad" type material out, which had the majority of the pet smell in it. However, there is a soft black material that has been glued to the cement floors and getting it up is proving to be a total nightmare. It also carries a pet smell. It's coming apart in small chunks and walking across it now means picking black fuzz off of everything. The amount of dust and fibers and just plain YUK that's being kicked into the air is annoying, particularly as I'm finding it in my fresh paint now and it's really pissing me off. Talking to the sales guy for Coretec, he says just install over it. Again, I'm thinking this is not correct, particularly since this stuff is carrying pet odor and I just want it out. Anybody know how to get rid of this stuff (and the layer of glue)??
Any and all help and advice appreciated and desperately needed.
1. If you use the proper stair-cap, it's not any more of a tripping hazard than anything else you would put on stairs. The salesperson was just parroting something they had heard.
2. For removing just about any flooring residue, check out bean-e-doo. Yes it's a real product, google it and watch a couple of videos on how to use it. The stuff is amazing.
Even though the yo-yo wasn't articulate enough to explain it, I would suspect the tripping hazard would relate to trying to create treads with the vinyl planks. If you were going to use this flooring to recreate the look of true wood or even engineered hardwood stairs, you would expect to see the wood bullnose on each step. I'm not sure its stick down factor would handle that. Or, he's referring to the fact that if you end the vinyl product with a naked edge, it is prone to lift, which would create a tripping hazard.
Now, with all that said, Coretech is not a standard VPF. It has its own quarter round and staircap (bullnose) moldings, among others. So, I'm guessing this child simply was confused! ;-)
As for the black stuff...not sure how to get it off the floor, but you actually should be able to install over it. If the only issue is the odor, I would use Simple Solution or Nature's Miracle, both found at Pet Smart. There will be folks who will tell you they don't work. They are wrong, but you have to wet it and then let it dry. Until it's dry, you will still smell some of the odor. If it were me, I would spray it down, let it dry, cover it with under-layment and install the new floors...done.
Get a floor scraper for the floor. It looks like a foot wide putty knife on a long broom handle. Take down this mess to the concrete and put your new floor on a solid surface. I see little long term advantage of leaving this crud and trying to do something over the top of it.
It may take some time and elbow grease to scrape down to bare concrete but in my opinion, that is the best solution to the problem.
It seems unkind to call the salesperson a "yo-yo" or "child". I agree, though, he should be better able to articulate his advice about his product.
@Linda Weygant Perhaps he was intimidated by your "hard blink" but I agree with him: I would not use that, or any 'floating floor' system on stairs. When installed on a large floor, it creates a monolithic 'floating' surface, which gives it it's integrity. Stairs are a very small surface area and you would have no such integrity, nor would you want any possible (floating) movement there. You could contact the manufacturer directly to get their input but even if they say to do it, I would not feel comfortable with it.
Stair safety is nothing to take lightly. Stair treads should be solid.
Thank you @Account Closed - that's the most comprehensive explanation I've been able to find anywhere. Very much appreciated.
So what are all the cool kids using for flooring with stairs these days?
Originally posted by @Linda Weygant :
Thank you @Art Allen - that's the most comprehensive explanation I've been able to find anywhere. Very much appreciated.
So what are all the cool kids using for flooring with stairs these days?
I don't know about "cool" :) but I think your best options are:
1, Re-carpet the existing stair treads.
2, Stain or paint the existing stair treads.
3, Replace the existing treads with another solid wood (to be stained or painted).
If you opt for #3, you might consider hiring it out. It needs to be done correctly and it can be tricky if you're inexperienced.
Hi! Finally a question that I have some expertise with! :) pet odor! I am a learning novice in REI, however, my other work with the BOD of a local dog rescue and my many rescued companions makes my experience in this area valuable! There's a product called MyPetPeed. And it Works! You might have to apply it to the floor a couple times but it's easy, dries quickly, and amazingly effective! When I had a large floor area to cover I poured it into a garden pump sprayer and in a c couple minutes the job was done! Wait for it to dry and apply a second coat if needed. You can buy it from MyPetPeed.com. You'll be so glad you did!
Okay let's start with Cortec which is a US Floors product. I'm assuming you are using the click lock floating laminate version of this product. The WPC core is a good product in moisture areas. To use it on a tread, you MUST glue it direct, it can not float on a tread using the recommend nosing to finish.
As for the rubber back carpet residue(the black stuff), if it presents an uneven surface to install over you must remove it completely (and you may have to repaint or touch up.) I have always recommended that paint goes after the floor. You can always throw a droop cloth down but paint requires 30 days to totally cure. To the touch it's dry but what is trying to adher to the drywall takes 30 days because air doesn't easily get to it to cure it.
I believe I read above that the floor is concrete. Please don't use an adhesive remover or solvent as it will go into the pores of the concrete and leach out into the new installation causes product damage or glue failure. Scraping with the spud scraper mentioned above is one method or you can rent a power scrapper or scarifier and get it done quick. I would probably recommend a floating floor in this area unless you have access to a floating underlayment. My company handles such a product but we aren't in your area so I can assist you. Another good alternative would be carpet tiles. There are many surplus carpet tile sites 0nline. I 've used them in my own home and there are residential low profile looks.
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