Heavily diluted bleach and water usually. Are you talking interior or exterior?
all cash
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Heavily diluted bleach and water usually. Are you talking interior or exterior?
all cash
Use all_cash's idea. Bleach and water in a spray bottle then wipe it down. OR, you could call in a mold remidiation team with hazardous chemical suits and pay them $10,000 to do the same thing. I would go with the bleach and water.
I had a mold problem in my Dad's wine cellar, went through it with diluted bleach on some rags. Pretty thoroughly with some time- but it solved the problem!
Lowe's has some stuff, can't remember the name, that does a great job without the odor of bleach.
Try sporiclean.com or killmold fast.com. I have not used it, but have heard many folks who have.
Bleach will get it, then use an oil based primer before repainting
Good Ole Clorox seems to work, be sure to wear a breathing mask when applying as well as get some good air flow and circulation.
I know Home Depot sells something for like 30 bucks called "Mold Control" it has you mix two containers into an spray bottle. Works ok, but bleach will do the trick.
I have been able to use KILZ when repainting with some success.
Always make sure you solve the source first. If you don't fix the moisture intrusion problem, it will come right back, even through KILZ. Go to the EPA website and download the free pamphlet "A Brief Guide t Mold and Moisture in Your Home". Most minor mold problems can be easily fixed by the homeowner.
If you ever do need to call in remediators, avoid those who use scare tactics to try and force you to sign a contract.
Bryan is right, find and fix the problem first. I have used a strong bleach mixture in a pump sprayer and it worked well. Remeber if it is on the outside of the drywall it is behind it also. Make sure to tear it off and remove and replace insulation behind if on an outside wall, spray the studs with bleach let dry well. Then prime with kilz or zizner primer to seal in anything that you didn't kill. I have seen the 10 thousand dollar remediation work and they just remove the moldy material and spray down with something to kill the mold. They don't go the extra mile and prime the studs. Just remeber to find the moisture source or it will come back eventually.
Even after bleach, the spores are still there. Best way is face protection for you and a HEPPA filter on a good shop vac. preferably vac placed outside with enough hose to get inside!!
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Great comments. I would only add that a 1 to 10 solution of bleach and water will suffice. Also, when using a respirator make sure it offers the right protection. A HEPA filter by itself won't protect you from bleach fumes..only particulates. A combination HEPA/Acid gas may be more appropriate.
Bleach does NOT kill most types of mold. Bleach only changes the color of the mold to make it less noticeable.
To kill mold you need to use a biocide/anti-microbial, and the most important piece of the equation is to ensure that the source of the moisture is eliminated so that the mold doesn't return.
Actually, the US EPA rep recommended the 1-10 solution of bleach for destroying household mold.....
CB
Apparently, the rep was going against his own agency's recommendation:
http://www.epa.gov/mold/pdfs/moldguide.pdf
See top of page 17...
Again, don't use bleach to kill mold.
I have dealt with mold on multiple occasions and JScott is
right again. The product I use is Moldex which I order online.
First I wiped it with soap and water, then scrub it with the Biocide (Moldex) for 10 minutes. Let it dry or clean again
with the Biocide if needed. The last then I always do now is
try to encapsulate any remaining mold with a good quality primer like Zinsser Bullseye 123.
IIRC, I have seen Moldex in the big box hardware stores too, in case you need to pick it up ASAP. Sometimes in the middle of a project, you see something that needs to be dealt with before you can proceed, so a trip to the big box store can get you going faster.
Bleach will kill surface spores. We use a shockwave treatment to penetrate the surface and kill itball. Then you must control the humity or it will come back.