Water in Crawlspace

There's water in the crawlspace of a prospective investment property at which we're looking.

It looks like the heavy clay soils are holding the water under the house and it can't "leak" back out through the crawl foundation and footers (which look surprisingly good). BTW the joists look good but a lot of the subflooring has been ruined by the moisture.

I was thinking of a plan, if we can "buy right", that would entail pumping out the water, digging an exterior perimeter drain and installing a sump. Obviously we'd check plumbing and gutters.

Any suggestions on logical steps if we end up buying this place?

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 08:12AM by Joel K

Jon Holdman

Real Estate Investor · Denver, Colorado

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Icon_minipost May 11 '09, 09:53 PM

The problem isn't really the retention, but the fact the water's getting in to start with. Look for some source like a crack or where a water or sewer line comes through the foundation. Leaks often show which build-up as the leaking water evaporates. You might want to get a foundation guy to have a look and give an estimate.

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 08:12AM

Jon Holdman, Flying Phoenix LLC

Joel K

Real Estate Investor · Bloomington, Indiana

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Icon_minipost May 11 '09, 10:33 PM

Good point...we thought about a leak in supply lines but the water's been off for a little while...how IS it getting in.

My guess is that we've had a lot of rain (A LOT) and the ground under the house sits lower than the surrounding grade (which looks decent to good, btw).

I had 45 postholes dug at my place about two months ago and water just STOOD in them for weeks...one unfilled hole still has water in it.

We are definitely planning on getting estimates before we do it ourselves---it'd be great to pawn it off on a contractor because it'll be yucky work!

Thanks for the reply

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 08:12AM

Michael S.

Real Estate Investor · Paramus, New Jersey

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Icon_minipost Aug 29 '09, 09:57 AM

Is the crawl space pored concrete or is it just dirt? Either way you need the sump, and in if it's a dirt floor, you should also have a vapor barrier that will keep the water from migrating out of the ground. You should also have foundation vents if you don't have it.

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 09:32AM

Kian B.

Property Manager · Pennsylvania

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Icon_minipost Sep 27 '09, 02:59 AM

One thing you might want to consider is cleaning the existing concrete with Etch cleaner, then drylocking the walls. Drylock is a thick latex based paint that retains moisture. It works very well for crawlspaces if you are willing yo go in there and do it yourself. Just make sure that the walls are clean first or else the drylock wont adhere to the wall well. Also if you have any cracks or holes try using Fastplug. if you have a crack chissel the crack a little so it resembles a small trench and them seal it back up with Fastplug. watch out though you mush work fast because Fastplug drys extremely fast. good luck!!

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 09:51AM

Joel K

Real Estate Investor · Bloomington, Indiana

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Icon_minipost Sep 28 '09, 11:37 PM

thanks for the replies...

We opted to have the crawl professionally rehabilitated after tearing out sections of floor and replacing some joists ourselves. We also installed our own perimeter drain first. Property should be on market in two weeks..

Edited: 06/26/2010 at 09:52AM

Daniel Fenton

Real Estate Investor · Indianapolis, Indiana

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Icon_minipost Apr 22 '11, 04:00 AM

Joel -- In Indiana also. Saw your post. Buying a similar house. Is there someone you use to recommend. You can PM me. I'd appreciate any lessons learned. Dan

Jason Davis

Rehabber · Powhatan, Virginia

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Icon_minipost Apr 25 '11, 12:53 PM

I work for a waterproofing company in Virginia. Never use Drylock, it creates a barrier so that the water can not get out of the cinder block. The water is there it's seeks the path of least resistance, give it a way out. Did a trench around the perimeter of the crawlspace, place a drain tile (corrugated pipe) inside the footer area, cover with stone (we use 57) then either a daylight drain, or a sump pump to pump it out. Then place a vapor barrier on the soil. We use a 15 mil white vapor barrier. This gives a nice clean appearance for the home inspectors. If mold exits find a contractor who uses a shockwave treatment. This is a penetrating chemical that not only kills surface mold but penetrates.