Real Estate Investor · Kansas CIty, MO · Member since 2009 · 93 posts · 8 votes
I bought a duplex. The frame of the back door where the deadbolt goes in is torn to hell from what looks like a break-in. The actual hole where the deadbolt fits in is damaged. The door still locks with the deadbolt, but is very shaky and just looks like crap as well. The damage also has split some of the frame on the inside of the door.
Looks like an interesting project... how do you fix something like this?
Rental Property Investor · Mercer Island, WA · Member since 2008 · 22k+ posts · 14k+ votes
16y
Its easy, though it can be a pain.
The rough frame for a door consists of full length studs on either side (king studs), a header above, and then jack studs that are nailed to the king studs and hold up the header. The header is a pair of 2x boards. If its a non-bearing wall, they're typically 2x4s, larger for a bearing wall. Inside the opening formed by the header and jack studs are the finish door framing. That may be either 1x6 (or so) boards with the stop trim nailed to it, or (newer construction) a single formed L shaped board with a slit for the weatherstripping. Then, on the inside and outside there will be trim to cover over the gap. The finish boards will be the width of the framing (typically 2x4) plus the finish wall covering.
Carefully remove the trim from the inside and outside walls. That will expose the finish door boards and the rough edges of the wall covering. You may want to start with just removing the interior trim to see if you can get away without removing the exterior trim. The finish door frame will be spaced away from the jack studs with a series of shims. Rip out the old frame. Carefully cut a new one the same size. Nail it in place, using shims to make it fit tight. Cut and drill the holes for the knob and deadbolt.
Its a finicky job. Not as bad as the hinge side but still finicky. Take you time and be sure everything is level and plumb and fits tightly. Its very likely you'll have to rip a board to the correct width, and it may be different from top to bottom.
Rental Property Investor · Mercer Island, WA · Member since 2008 · 22k+ posts · 14k+ votes
16y
Its easy, though it can be a pain.
The rough frame for a door consists of full length studs on either side (king studs), a header above, and then jack studs that are nailed to the king studs and hold up the header. The header is a pair of 2x boards. If its a non-bearing wall, they're typically 2x4s, larger for a bearing wall. Inside the opening formed by the header and jack studs are the finish door framing. That may be either 1x6 (or so) boards with the stop trim nailed to it, or (newer construction) a single formed L shaped board with a slit for the weatherstripping. Then, on the inside and outside there will be trim to cover over the gap. The finish boards will be the width of the framing (typically 2x4) plus the finish wall covering.
Carefully remove the trim from the inside and outside walls. That will expose the finish door boards and the rough edges of the wall covering. You may want to start with just removing the interior trim to see if you can get away without removing the exterior trim. The finish door frame will be spaced away from the jack studs with a series of shims. Rip out the old frame. Carefully cut a new one the same size. Nail it in place, using shims to make it fit tight. Cut and drill the holes for the knob and deadbolt.
Its a finicky job. Not as bad as the hinge side but still finicky. Take you time and be sure everything is level and plumb and fits tightly. Its very likely you'll have to rip a board to the correct width, and it may be different from top to bottom.
You CAN do as Jon suggested. An easier way is to 'section' out the bad part and install a new section. harder and more important part is preventing from happening again. I saw a guy use 3/8 plate steel behind door frame,,,for dead bolt to throw thru,,, secured well so the guy has to really work to get thru that. basicly breaking the door in half to get in. A high quality lock and a solid core door and he is going to really have a chore of re breaking the door.
so to make a long story short,,,it probably is cheaper and easier to replace the whole door,place the steel while door is out, then use a high quality new door and it looks good too.
OR bubblegum up your old door with a section for 'one more go'.
Prehung is alot easier and more forgiving if this turns into a do-it-yourself project with less than pro skills.
Real Estate Investor · Mobile, AL · Member since 2009 · 11 posts · 0 votes
16y
I am a commercial door supplier by day. If you do not want to have this problem again I suggest a hollow metal frame and door. You do not have to buy it from me, but i can explain the step by step process for installation. fix a bunch of times or one time. let me know if i can help. I need your rough opening after the frame is ripped out wXh, and your wall thickness.
Real Estate Investor · Mobile, AL · Member since 2009 · 11 posts · 0 votes
16y
I have landlords in my area that come to me weekly to fix the same exact problem. If you decide to go this route do not pay more than $450.00 for a unit. Its commercial grade so be prepared to spend a little more, but its well worth it. I can send you some pictures of a triplex we just finished up if your interested.
Rental Property Investor · Mercer Island, WA · Member since 2008 · 22k+ posts · 14k+ votes
16y
How you go depends on what you're trying to accomplish, what's there now, and how much time and money you want to invest.
Minor damage can often be fixed up with some glue and a few screws and be as good as it was before the damage. If the door frame is badly damaged, but the door is OK and only the latch side is busted up, then my method gets you back to where you were and is very cheap. It takes sometime though, and if you're paying someone to do it, it may not make sense.
Prehung exterior doors will take about as long to install as the repair I suggested, but may give a more secure result if a wood frame is replaced with a steel one. Prehung door are easier to install than doing it from scratch, but aren't trivial. Getting everything level and plumb takes time and care. The test of a properly installed door is that you can open it at about 45 degrees and it will just set there. Neither close nor open further on its own. And, that you can give it a light push and it will close complete and easily.
If this is a rental, ask yourself if a new $450 door, plus installation will earn you more rent than $20 in materials and an hour or two of your time. When I do this repair, or even just install new locks, I do always be sure to use long screws that reach all the way back into the 2x framing. Not as secure as steel plates, but better than a few 3/4" screws just into the frame. Keep in mind that if someone's determined to get in a brick through a window is a lot easier than breaking down a door.
Real Estate Investor · Mobile, AL · Member since 2009 · 11 posts · 0 votes
16y
I agree John. However, he could install it by himself with my instruction in about an hour. Not including trim work or painting. we could also put a double cylinder lock on the door so if they do break in the window and get in they cant tote anything out the door without a key.
Real Estate Investor · Mobile, AL · Member since 2009 · 11 posts · 0 votes
16y
you can buy a double cylinder lock that has a optional occupied setting which will pass code. Basically lock changes function when someone is in the residence. you are correct if your lock does not have this function.
Contractor · Denver, CO · Member since 2009 · 399 posts · 166 votes
16y
You need to check your local building code on the double cylinder lock. I know in Milwaukee you are required to have a thumb latch on the inside in case of a fire.
Real Estate Investor · Mobile, AL · Member since 2009 · 11 posts · 0 votes
16y
Here is a double cylinder deadbolt that I sell to other landlords in the area, and they told me they had local inspectors give them the go ahead on it.
If it's a keeper, I'd replace the whole thing with a metal door. The other side, too.
If this is the sort of neighborhood where doors are kicked in, you have to think about the security of your tools and materials while you renovate.
If the door was a domestic dispute and the neighborhood isn't bad, you can cover a lot of repair work with a nice coat of paint. But only if you are selling. If you keep, you are legally responsible to a degree for the security of your tenants, and a bad patch job on a broken deadbolt might get you into lawsuit trouble.
Real Estate Investor · Stone Mountain, GA · Member since 2009 · 10 posts · 0 votes
16y
Originally posted by Tony Thompson:
I bought a duplex. The frame of the back door where the deadbolt goes in is torn to hell from what looks like a break-in. The actual hole where the deadbolt fits in is damaged. The door still locks with the deadbolt, but is very shaky and just looks like crap as well. The damage also has split some of the frame on the inside of the door.
Looks like an interesting project... how do you fix something like this?
Hey Tony
Lowes carry's this product called Door Jam Armor that helps safeguard against kick ins. I have it on my front and back doors. I had it installed because I didn't want people breaking in while we were renovating my place. It's like 150 bucks. It pretty much turns your door into a security door. I'm sure you can do an internet search and read up on it.
Real Estate Investor · Norman, OK · Member since 2009 · 23 posts · 1 vote
16y
Tony,
To fix something like that...I would take out my pen, write a check, and sign it. Somehow, I've found that the act of writing a check magically fixes things much better than I can! :wink: