I stopped underwriting CapEx at zero just because a listing said “updated”

I stopped underwriting CapEx at zero just because a listing said “updated”

Realtor · Washington state · Member since 2026 · 7 posts · 2 votes

Quick underwriting habit I had to unlearn: treating CapEx like optional fluff when the photos look good.

A “renovated” kitchen or new paint doesn’t mean the big-ticket stuff is done. Roof age, water heater, HVAC, sewer lateral, appliances near end of life — those still hit you on a buy-and-hold, usually on a schedule that ignores how nice the listing photos were.

My simple rule now: every deal gets a CapEx line, even the ones that look turnkey. I pick a monthly reserve that feels boring and slightly high, then stress the cash flow with it in. If the deal only works with CapEx at zero, it doesn’t work. I’d rather pass early than “find out” in year two when the water heater and the HVAC both decide to quit in the same winter.

I’m not trying to predict every dollar. I’m just refusing to model a fantasy expense sheet. CapEx is real. Zero is a marketing number, not an underwriting number.

Curious how you all handle this:
Do you use a flat monthly CapEx reserve on every property, or do you itemize by system age?
And if a seller pushes “it’s fully updated, no CapEx needed,” do you still keep the line in the model?

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  • Accountant · San Francisco, CA · Member since 2026 · 106 posts · 56 votes
    1d

    Hi Peter, I will be straight that I come at this from the tax and audit side, not as an operator, so I will leave the flat-versus-itemize call to the people actually buying. What I will say from auditing these deals: the underwrites that carried no reserve line are the ones that came back around in year two or three when a big system failed and nothing was set aside. Keeping the line in even when the listing says "fully updated" is the version that held up.

    The part this conversation usually skips, and it's my actual lane: how you spend that reserve changes what it costs after tax.

    - A repair is deductible the year you pay it. A replacement gets capitalized and depreciated over years, so the same cash shelters far less right now.

    - De minimis safe harbor lets you expense smaller items in the year you buy them instead of depreciating, if you make the election.

    - Partial disposition: when you replace the roof, you can write off the remaining basis of the old roof that year instead of carrying two roofs on the schedule. A lot of people stack the new one on top and leave that money sitting.

    CPA and former Big 4 CRE auditor, so I think about the reserve itself the way you'd model it. The after-tax side of spending it is where I spend more time.

  • Divin KanyamaBusiness Member
    Accountant · Seattle, WA · Member since 2025 · 433 posts · 176 votes
    1d

    Exactly, @Peter J Kim . "Turnkey" may describe how a property looks today, but it says very little about how much life is left in the roof, HVAC, water heater, or sewer line. Keeping a CapEx reserve in every deal makes sense. A flat monthly amount is a good starting point, then it can be adjusted based on the inspection and the age of the major systems. Newer systems might support a smaller reserve, but probably not a zero reserve.

    If a seller says everything is fully updated, it is still worth verifying what "updated" actually means. Receipts, permits, warranties, and inspection results can help fine-tune the numbers, but every component will eventually need to be replaced. The goal is not to predict every expense perfectly—it is to make sure the deal can handle real ownership costs without relying on a best-case scenario. If the numbers only work with zero CapEx, the margin is probably too thin.

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