Ok so I am buying a property that will need a roof repalcement in the near future 6-12 months but who knows to be exact? I checked the attic out and there are no leaks or any signs of it potentially damaging other aspects of the house. I am planning on managing the property myself and since it is my first house I will be there alot probably once or twice a month to check everything. I will virtually inspect basement and attic to make sure no minor problems turn into bigger ones. Should I hold off on the roof if I check on the property a few times a month and wait for a small leak or something to happen? I know this is about maximizing costs and I do not want to put out 7-10k yet if I can get another year out of it. I also know that major problems can turn into big ones if ignored which is why I plan to check on it. The multi already has a tenant living upstairs and the bottom floor can be rented immediately once I tile the bathroom and repaint.. thank you any advice from fellow buy and hold investors or any one!

If the roof only has 6-12 months left and you already have the money to replace, then you should go ahead and do it now while you are doing the other renovations. You may inconvenience your tenants if you do it later. Also, it will save you the headache and worry of checking the roof for leaks everytime it rains for the next year. Since this is a rental property, you can use a 3-tab shingle as opposed to an architectural shingle. That should hold the cost down. Also, you can go with a 20 year life shingle instead of 25 or 30 year life if you are concerned about the cost. Even though laying over the existing shingles will reduce the cost, I wouldn't recommend it for two reasons. #1, you won't be able to see any of the decking to know if any of it needs repaired/replaced and #2, laying over the old shingles will shorten the life of the new shingles.

I forgot about gutters. Pictures here too. DYI - depends on what tools are needed for the sections needing addressed. You may also be able to go to a gutter supplier and have them run a trough for you. Downspouts are sold in 10' sections and elbows can be connected with screws.

Does anything exhaust out the chimney (is it being used or future use with existing fireplace)? If no, remove chimney just below decking and redeck (have to get to rafters (so will have to cut bigger hole)). Install felt and shingles. No more issues or future leaking. If yes, use Bill's suggestions of mortar, stucco or framing and save the money. Home Depot can show you how to install the metal flashing to replace the old and protect your hard work. Do you have pictures you can share? I have a roofing company and can share my opinions from 1300 miles away. Bill is also correct on prices of shingles. Most manufacturers will increase prices just before the building season (March time frame for KC). Often we see 7-10%. Some local suppliers will discount at the end of season to get rid of inventory - odd lots, not as popular colors. I have also been on customers roofs that look old and shingles are old, but don't need to be replaced (even though other roofing companies told them it had to be immediate). Pics would help.

Might save you some money on the chimney above the roof. Check the flu and see if it's good, if so; Clean out all the lose stuff and get some masonry for chimneys, its fire rated, glase the entire oustide. Use some stucco over that and give it what ever finish that looks the best. That's a DYI. You could also strap the chimney with metal bands and build an exterior frame around it and use siding that matches the house or what ever looks good. The wood frame should be slightly lower than the brick. Use mortar and fillin the top making a cap. Try and find a chimney cap that covers the new siding. You could stucco the whole thing, below the roof too and seal up the lose brick. Moisture is usually the problem with poorly cured brik, that's what an old timer told me. New mortar will seal it up to keep it from being damaged further, but it's not water proof.

I'm not getting the need for B-vent. Once the chimney is lined (stainless steel tubing usually used for this these days), the exhaust can just go up the liner. B-vent is useful if there is no chimney, because clearance to combustible parts of the structure can be minimized. But that chimney is already a non-combustible. Good link here to a couple of PDFs: http://www.hartandcooley.com/Products/venting/b-vent/hart-and-cooley-type-b-gas-vent.aspx

When to replace a Roof?

Just Don

Member since 2009 · 499 posts · 117 votes

15y

Waiting till it leaks is a bad idea. Are you going to 'camp' there all the while it rains,,,everytime,,so you know?

You cant always SEE the leaks and resulting damage till it gets costly.

Buy a safety harness, shingle gun and a hammer and fix it when the sun is shining. Meaning tear off old,,,nail on new.

Teaming up with a buddy so he helps you and you help him works best. Tarp at nite if any risk of rain.

OR shell out big bucks for an unknown quality job.

When to replace a Roof?

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