Moving mobile home
Colorado Springs, CO · Member since 2011 · 4 posts · 0 votes
So here's the deal. I can buy this mobile home for $1500 and pay $400 to have it moved. The truck driver will handle all the permits and is responsible for hooking up the utilities. It already has the tongue and wheels on it so that's a plus. After it is moved and hooked up someone from the city will inspect it.
Here's the question. When should I pay for all of this? I'm thinking once it's in place and passes inspection is when I should pay but I don't know what is common practice for this. Is there also anything else i should look out for?
that sounds like a hook and pull only. Make sure who is taking skirting off,,,airing tires,,,hauling blocks,,,leveling ,,,and never heard of mover hooking up utilities. Wouldnt think they would want liability of doing that. Especially gas and electric. Also need building permit here for setting up, locate etc. As well as putting skirting back on and double checking level.
Around here there used to be several movers,,,now none.
There's no skirting on it now. It already has tires and a tongue on it. The roof, ceiling, and walls appear to be in decent shape but the floors and everything else will have to be replaced.
I could have the park move it and hook it up for me for up to $2,000 but if i do that i'd only offer $500 for the trailer itself. I'm looking at making a gross profit of $10k when it's all said and done.
Here's the list of things to fix:
New floor (at least 2 sheets of plywood to fix some soft spots)
New kitchen sink, cabinets, counter tops.
New carpet and tile.
Fresh coat of paint for the walls and ceiling.
New windows.
Justin, I think you need to take a closer look at your numbers. The average cost to move and hook up utilities for a mobile home in my area is around $3300. It can be cheaper but not for $400.
The other thing you need to revisit is how you're going to buy a home that will require all new floor and everything else and you plan to get $10k profit from it. Not sure what "everything else" entails but you're most likely underestimating costs , overestimating resale value or both.
This sounds like too big of a project for someone without any experience with mobile homes. If that sounds like you, I'd recommend starting with a more simplified purchase starting out - little to no repairs and no move.
If you're talking about a newer single wide with good correctly rated tires in a flat open graveled lot- moved to another flat open lot not too far away.... then yes, $400 is worth someone's while. Usually all one needs to do to hook up utilities is plug the plug in, turn on the hose and hook up the sewer.
I personally would go for that deal if the guy had good references from people he had moved. You might offer him additional $ for leveling the the trailer and blocking with wood and cement blocks. It's not hard to do yourself either. Many times movers will throw a few cement blocks under it and call it good rather than taking the time to level it. Payment is usually right when the work is done. Some movers may require half when they pull up- but that would be unusual in most areas.
It's not uncommon for truckers to get permits to haul. Day permits are a probability also.
Where I am you do not need a building permit to put a trailer in a park. However... some places require a full inspection of any older trailer including structure, electrical, windows, plumbing etc. Your mover has nothing to do with the outcome of those inspections. You will have sole responsibility for that, and I hope you know what you may be dealing with. Hopefully you are talking about a different kind of inspection. Some places do not look inside the trailer- only check utilities and fire hazards. The park manager where you are moving it to should be able to give info on what to expect. What is the year of the trailer?
I hope you have experience repairing trailers, it can be endless. It is more time consuming than repairing a small house. But if you need low budget housing, can bypass a full inspection, and have plenty of time it could be a good deal. If you are looking to resell without using it as housing while rebuilding it you may lose money.
Be very careful replacing any floors. Reinforce walls first & ask for advice. It's easier to just lay another layer of plywood over the floor than to replace sections.
You might be better off paying more for one in decent shape. Good luck!
Thanks for all the advice! This is an 89 mobile home complete with tires and tongue. It is also my second deal. The first one was already in the park and the inside was pretty nice. All I had to do for that one was paint the ceiling and install newer appliances I got off of craigslist for cheap. The roof for that one was completely shredded but I still was able to sell it in that condition and made a profit of $1800. Not bad for 26 days of work.
For my new deal the park is giving me a $1500 allowance which will cover the lot fees for about 4 months. All i'll have to pay is water, sewer, and utilities during this time which isn't much.
@Lynn Harrison: That is a great idea you have for the floor. Roofers will cover the existing plywood instead of replacing sections when there's enough damage. I never thought about doing that for the floor.
Someone from the city will come out and inspect the hookups. I'll only cut the owner a check if the city says it's all good. March 1st will be when I make a final decision on this so I have time.
Whew. Good. Looks like you know what you are doing. The allowance form the park is excellent! I think an 89 wouldn't need an exhaustive inspection... Great deal.
We have been remodeling a trailer for the past year and living in it to save money. We bought it dirt cheap but it wasn't a bargain.... Had to completely tear out and rebuild.
A few things you may already know;
Don't use old paint which may have been frozen a few times. Recycle places often have free old paint that is perfectly good however. Just test it on something.
Don't use very old pvc cement on pipes.
We used cement floor leveler and ripped wood in patches before laying another layer of plywood- especially in the bathroom where the tub and toilet should be level. & There are such things as adjustment flanges for toilets- I don't remember the name for them.
Bondo works pretty good on metal siding. Great for sealing around windows. The pink bondo we used actually matched our awful pink tub. And the bondo patch on it is still holding...
If you use a sulfuric acid based rust stopper don't use a foam sponge to apply it- use a rag. Some foam melts a little and prevents primer from sticking.
Enzymes work well for smell. We replaced some bad spots, soaked the rest with enzymes, used a dehumidifier, then primed full strength with zimmer (?) primer- worked well.