Dryer fire hazard?

Dryer fire hazard?

Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes

One of my houses has washer/dryer hookups in the garage. There is a hole in the wall where the dryer tube, etc. is supposed to vent to the outside. Unfortunately, the way the house was built, the AC condensor is right in front of that hole, so the dryer vents right into the AC condensor when the tenant is drying clothes.

I was told by a couple people that I can't leave it this way because it will damage the condensor over time. They told me to divert the air flow.

I bought another dryer vent tube and one of those door flap devices (don't know what they are called) and connected it to the vent hole outside the house, so that it blows the exhaust three feet further from the AC condensor. The tube is propped up on cinder blocks. So it travels from a tube inside the garage (connected to dryer) and then another tube once it's outside the house.

However, now I'm wondering if this could be a fire hazard (having too long a tube, and it gets backed up with lint? ). Do I need to put it back to the way it was?

I know that dryer fires are extremely dangerous and I don't want to create a hazardous situation. I don't know if having such a long tube through which the exhaust needs to travel creates a hazard or not. Thanks.

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Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2008 · 71 posts · 9 votes
15y

I have to agree with what Mitch says. The extended distance shouldn't be a problem. I've been on several dryer fires in my career and the cause of them is due to lint build up inside the dryer frame (not the actual drum). The lint ignites since it is so close to the heating element of the dryer. Basically it's from not cleaning the lint trap on a regular basis. Extending the vent line is not going to increase the fire danger at all. Hope this helps!

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  • SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    15y

    Can you provide a photo? The only harm I see in having dryer exhaust that close to the A/C condenser is the build up of lint on the coils. Left unchecked, it could plug up the fine air passages around the coil. And with tenants, you know it'll go unchecked.

    If you can reroute the duct using smooth-walled fittings, I would move the exhaust port along the wall several feet, either horizontally or vertically and secure the ductwork to the wall using metal straps.

    I wouldn't have the duct running away from the house and supported on blocks. Sounds too fragile and just an invitation for damage. Unless you have lots of bends and elbows, I wouldn't worry too much about the length. Our condo has a dryer in the middle of the unit and the duct work runs at least 10-15 feet to the outside wall. Hasn't been a problem in nearly 20 years, but it should be cleaned out occasionally.

  • Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2008 · 71 posts · 9 votes
    15y

    I have to agree with what Mitch says. The extended distance shouldn't be a problem. I've been on several dryer fires in my career and the cause of them is due to lint build up inside the dryer frame (not the actual drum). The lint ignites since it is so close to the heating element of the dryer. Basically it's from not cleaning the lint trap on a regular basis. Extending the vent line is not going to increase the fire danger at all. Hope this helps!

  • SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    15y
    Originally posted by Mike Tooley:
    Basically it's from not cleaning the lint trap on a regular basis.

    Thanks for that Mike! I'm going to print it out in a very large bold font and tape it to my wife's forehead. :wink:

  • HVAC Contractor · Santa Clarita, CA · Member since 2011 · 27 posts · 26 votes
    15y

    I actually lived in a home where the dryer vent ran vertically through a wall, up through the attic and out of the roof through a "t-top" type flashing that had a wire mesh to keep animals out. I had to go up there regularly and clean the lint off of that mesh. This was a single story home, however the length was close to 15 feet long. With regular cleaning and inspection, I don't see a problem with this either.
    As Mitch stated, it is very important to keep lint (or any other type of build-up) off the condenser.

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y
  • HVAC Contractor · Santa Clarita, CA · Member since 2011 · 27 posts · 26 votes
    15y

    Personally, I would have used all hard pipe there on the exterior using a 90* elbow right at the wall penetration. As well as strapping it to the wall. That flexible ducting has many bends in it which can decrease air flow and create more areas for lint to build up. Also the hood where the air exits is blowing right on top of that cinder block. If the assembly is strapped to the wall as I described the blocks will not be needed.

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y
    Originally posted by Dave Barnard:
    Personally, I would have used all hard pipe there on the exterior using a 90* elbow right at the wall penetration. As well as strapping it to the wall. That flexible ducting has many bends in it which can decrease air flow and create more areas for lint to build up. Also the hood where the air exits is blowing right on top of that cinder block. If the assembly is strapped to the wall as I described the blocks will not be needed.

    Thanks Dave--will it still be possible to put the hood on at the end, though, if the elbow is flush against the wall?
    I don't want to just leave an exposed hole at the end because lizards, insects, etc. will enter the tube.

  • SFR Investor · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 484 posts · 181 votes
    15y

    You're "allowed" to have a complete & total length of 35 feet.
    Every 90 degree turn gives you a 5-foot "penalty" - so if you have four 90-degree turns, that's the equivalent to twenty-feet of straight pipe, and there's only 15 feet of straight pipe left on a code-compliant install (and shorter is going to work much better & clog less).
    I wouldn't worry about the "hood" at the end - although there is a version of that "hood" that has a lightweight "flapper" inside that will keep pests out.

    Take a peek at these low-restriction elbows...

    http://www.dryer-ell.com/dryer_vent_duct_elbow_comparison.htm

  • HVAC Contractor · Santa Clarita, CA · Member since 2011 · 27 posts · 26 votes
    15y

    --will it still be possible to put the hood on at the end, though, if the elbow is flush against the wall?
    I don't want to just leave an exposed hole at the end because lizards, insects, etc. will enter the tube.

    Just assemble everything together first (before strapping) leaving the elbow out away from the wall a little including the hood first, and then strap to the wall.
    Dave

  • Joel OwensBusiness Member
    Moderator
    Real Estate Broker · Canton, GA · Member since 2010 · 15k+ posts · 11k+ votes
    15y

    Why can't you just drill a new hole in the next cinder block over and cover up the other hole to mount the vent??

    Then where the dryer is they now have lint clean outs at the wall to prevent build up for the exhaust pipe.

    Mike Holmes puts them in on his show on all the properties.Do not know how much they clean outs cost though.

  • SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    15y

    Sorry Bienes, but that photo reminds me of these beauties:
    http://thechive.com/2010/02/18/honey-i-took-care-of-it-21-photos/

    No, I'm not being mean or anything, but that dryer vent extension does say "jerry-rigged" all over it. :wink:

    Of course, not being one to criticize without offering a solution, I do not see the A/C condenser in this photo, so it must be more than a few inches away. If it's off to the left (I see what looks like electrical conduit on the wall heading that way), I would restore the exhaust port the way it's supposed to be and construct a small little wall, a barrier if you will, between it and the A/C to keep the air flow and lint away.

  • Real Estate Investor · Salem, OR · Member since 2011 · 422 posts · 149 votes
    15y

    Or move.the ac condenser

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y
    Originally posted by Mitch Kronowit:
    Sorry Bienes, but that photo reminds me of these beauties:
    http://thechive.com/2010/02/18/honey-i-took-care-of-it-21-photos/

    No, I'm not being mean or anything, but that dryer vent extension does say "jerry-rigged" all over it. :wink:

    Of course, not being one to criticize without offering a solution, I do not see the A/C condenser in this photo, so it must be more than a few inches away. If it's off to the left (I see what looks like electrical conduit on the wall heading that way), I would restore the exhaust port the way it's supposed to be and construct a small little wall, a barrier if you will, between it and the A/C to keep the air flow and lint away.

    Yes, I did it in a hurry because they were moving in last week, and then realized after the fact that it was harebrained...

    I think the "wall" idea may actually be the easiest thing to do in this case, since the AC unit is off to the the left. Thanks.

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y
    Originally posted by Rusty Thompson:
    Or move.the ac condenser

    It's on a concrete pad.

  • White Lake, MI · Member since 2011 · 2 posts · 1 vote
    15y

    Bienes,
    As mentioned earlier it's not a fire hazard to have the dryer cap near the condensor. However, kids will be playing with your metal flex before the week is out and it will end up crushed.
    I would recommend that you put the dryer cap back where it belongs and take a look in two months at the condensor coils near the vent. If there is no lint, you are fine. If it is clogged with lint then you can either separate the two or use the garden hose and spray off the coils twice a year or as needed.

  • Joel OwensBusiness Member
    Moderator
    Real Estate Broker · Canton, GA · Member since 2010 · 15k+ posts · 11k+ votes
    15y

    Trust me I am no expert at all with this.Watching the Mike Holmes show though there are many times when it has to be so many inches away and if it's not there is a violation of code.

    You need to know the building codes for your area.It seems to be a frequent occurrence for this to happen on many of his shows.

  • Joel OwensBusiness Member
    Moderator
    Real Estate Broker · Canton, GA · Member since 2010 · 15k+ posts · 11k+ votes
    15y

    If you rent the right tool it really isn't that hard to make another hole in the cinder block over.

  • SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    15y
    Originally posted by Rusty Thompson:
    Or move.the ac condenser

    I thought of that as well, but moving an A/C unit can't be cheap, especially if it's an older R-12 system. I thought about moving our antique temporarily for some concrete work, but the cost of removing and replacing the freon (4 to 6 pounds at $30 per plus labor) was out of the question. R-22 is much cheaper or reusing the freon, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea. HVAC guys?

  • HVAC Contractor · Santa Clarita, CA · Member since 2011 · 27 posts · 26 votes
    15y

    Moving the condenser seems overkill to me given the situation. It was stated it sits on a concrete pad. If moved you need concrete, copper, refrigerant, drier and electrical work plus labor. The cost will be very high to do this.

    I like the idea of drilling a new hole, however we do not know where the interior walls are to know if that is even possible.

    As to
    "I would recommend that you put the dryer cap back where it belongs and take a look in two months at the condensor coils near the vent. If there is no lint, you are fine. If it is clogged with lint then you can either separate the two or use the garden hose and spray off the coils twice a year or as needed."

    There are two things wrong with this. Number one is that there will be lint (not "if") and it will need to be cleaned regularly. The problem is that dirt and lint will eventually build up in the fins that a simple hose down will just not get it. The second thing is why would you want all that heat on a condenser coil thats trying to remove heat. Every time that dryer is running while the a/c is on you affect efficiency and performance. It may not be by a huge amount but over time it adds up. Plus the extra strain it puts on the compressor which is the most expensive component to replace.
    Dave

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y

    Thanks for all the advice everyone. I'll check the garage again to see if drilling a new hole is an option.

  • Real Estate Investor · San Diego, CA and all states · Member since 2011 · 10 posts · 5 votes
    15y

    I don't know about your specific situation, but let me tell you about my Holy Katz situation.

    My daughter came running upstairs saying the circuit breaker panel was dripping water! I expected a plumbing leak, but there was none.

    What had happened was that the dryer vent directly above the circuit breaker panel in the basement, was about 80% plugged with lint. It was cold outside and the dryer was running. The lint was collecting humid air, which condensed the water. The water ran back down the tube a few feet and the dryer vent pipe was dripping into the circuit breaker panel.

    The obvious fix was to clean out the dryer vent pipe more often. I checked with an inspector and no codes had been violated.

    My clothes dryer bills decreased, with the clearer pipe.

  • Orlando, FL · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 282 votes
    15y
    Originally posted by David Mithell:
    I don't know about your specific situation, but let me tell you about my Holy Katz situation.

    My daughter came running upstairs saying the circuit breaker panel was dripping water! I expected a plumbing leak, but there was none.

    What had happened was that the dryer vent directly above the circuit breaker panel in the basement, was about 80% plugged with lint. It was cold outside and the dryer was running. The lint was collecting humid air, which condensed the water. The water ran back down the tube a few feet and the dryer vent pipe was dripping into the circuit breaker panel.

    The obvious fix was to clean out the dryer vent pipe more often. I checked with an inspector and no codes had been violated.

    My clothes dryer bills decreased, with the clearer pipe.

    Thanks David. The houses in this area don't have basements so that's one thing I don't have to worry about. Obviously the lint can cause a variety of problems though if left unchecked.

  • Contractor · Mitchell, SD · Member since 2011 · 47 posts · 7 votes
    15y

    Just come up the wall a couple feet, instead of over to the side. Dryers can vent vertically up to 10 feet with no problems. Then it will look nice, too.

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