Real Estate Investor · Orlando, FL · Member since 2013 · 30 posts · 2 votes
I'm working with my mortgage broker on financing for my first rental property. I'm looking to get a 2-4 unit, and I will be an owner occupant in one of the units.
We got into the discussion about what I'd be able to afford to put down, and how I should not put myself in a position where I would be " house rich and cash poor". While I agree with this, I'm intimidated by the 1% PMI for the life of the loan.
So my questions are:
1. Is it normal as a residential multi family investor to put 3.5-5% down and still make a good deal out of it, even with PMI? This makes for a weaker investment, but allows for a larger portfolio, I'd assume.
2. When I hear discussions about 50% & 2% rules, are these assuming 20% down and no PMI?
3. I've heard Piggyback loans mentioned where you finance 80% with the bank via your home mortgage, 10% via a private loan, and bring 10% cash + closing costs to the table. This would eliminate PMI, but I'd be stuck with the higher interest rate on the 10% private loan.
It's both.... I personally would rather (if I could afford it) put down whatever I needed to put down to eliminate PMI. I hold long term so I'd rather just put the money down and not have to worry about it plus I'd like having that equity there. My first home I bought using the 80% 20% loans to avoid PMI.
I'm not a FHA expert but I believe the PMI stays on for min of 5 years AND can then be removed if LTV is 78%. Another option is to refinance into a conventional mortgage before 5 years if you acquire more capital and/or experience appreciation.
I only have SFRs and I recently made the decision to only put 15% down and pay PMI. The house has positive cash flow and is within my comfort range albeit less than the 1% rule. I wanted to keep the extra 5% for other upcoming investment opportunities
On a FHA, with less than 10% down, the PMI is the life of the loan. Greater than 10% down, can be canceled after 11 years and less than 78% LTV at that time. On a 30 year loan (anything greater than 15 years) annual PMI is 1.35% for above 95% LTV, 1.30% for 95% or less LTV. Up front PMI is 1.75% for all loans.
With today's 5% down conventional loans and the fact that PMI on FHAs is now for the life of the loan, I wouldn't do an FHA.
If you're buying in an area that you expect to appreciate, one option is to do a 5-10% down conventional, and then refinancing once you get enough equity to get rid of the PMI.
Since it's you're primary residence, I'd probably recommend putting 20% down and then getting a HELOC or Home Equity Loan for 10% of the appraised value. (A lot of places will do a 90% LTV HELOC on an owner-occupied.) This puts you back to only having 10% into the property and gives you cash to do another deal without requiring you to pay PMI.
John, There's actually another possibility that's getting some traction down here in the sunshine state and maybe elsewhere for sure. Smaller regional banks are lending first mortgages at Heloc fees. So where a traditional lender might charge you 1-2% origination fee, certain banks (again usually smaller community or regional) will loan 90% on a new purchase for an origination fee of $250 with heloc terms. In one I just worked on Florida Bank lent 90% for an origination fee of $250 5 year fixed was 3.5%. 7 year fixed was 4.5% and the loan was amortized over 20years. Might not be for everyone but it's a great option for you to explore given that you're going to live in part and rent part. Florida Bank would do it up to 4 units.
@Will Johnston So if I did a conventional (which is sounding like the better option at this point), would I have to refinance to get the PMI removed, or could I just request an appraisal once I reach 80% LTV to have it removed but keep the existing financing in place? If I had to refinance, interest rates would change, and my loan term would start over from month 1, correct?
Regarding the HELOC, are these at the same interest rates as the loan, or a higher rate? If so, could I just go the "piggyback" route to begin with?
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John, There's actually another possibility that's getting some traction down here in the sunshine state and maybe elsewhere for sure. Smaller regional banks are lending first mortgages at Heloc fees. So where a traditional lender might charge you 1-2% origination fee, certain banks (again usually smaller community or regional) will loan 90% on a new purchase for an origination fee of $250 with heloc terms. In one I just worked on Florida Bank lent 90% for an origination fee of $250 5 year fixed was 3.5%. 7 year fixed was 4.5% and the loan was amortized over 20years. Might not be for everyone but it's a great option for you to explore given that you're going to live in part and rent part. Florida Bank would do it up to 4 units.
Dave
Hey Dave, thank you for the suggestion! I like the idea of getting a loan with no origination fees or points. I'm a little bit confused by what you said: "lending first mortgages at HELOC fees." Can you clarify for a newbie?
I was also a little bit confused by the varying rates you mentioned for 5 years and 7 years with amortization over 20 yrs. This is entirely new to me.
One other question, you mentioned this strategy can be applied to 4 units. Can it be applies to multiple different 4 unit properties, or would this be a one time thing?
@John M. Great discussion! I've been in the same boat with my current situation (looking to put 5% down on a conventional loan). All of my analyses end up showing lower cash flow mainly due to the PMI. I've figured that I need to account for it as part of my expenses (similar to vacancy and property management allowances) and calculate my cash flow on this. I figure if I am able to have positive cash flow after accounting for the PMI, once I get 20% equity, I can refinance and I'll have an instant boost to my cash flow (who can complain with that).
The only bad part, as you have mentioned above, is the fact that you have this additional expense that you need to account for in each of your calculations, which makes it harder to find properties that cash flow.
The specific loan I was referencing is one that I've seen a couple times (contact me off forum and I'd be happy to give you contact info). It is specifically designed for a new purchase - that's right heloc terms but done for a new purchase. The loan locks interest for 5 or 7 years that's where the rate variance comes in. Although it's a new purchase there's no origination or closing costs for the loan itself. The bank handles the closing in house or through a captive title company. They are designed for primary residence but will loan on a primary that is up to 4 units that you live in one of. All in all a very nice product.