How do you "harden" your rentals?

How do you "harden" your rentals?

Chuck B.Pro Member
Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2011 · 279 posts · 248 votes

Dear Pocketers,

How do you harden / bullet-proof your rentals?

While I've never had anyone utterly trash a rental of mine, I've seen the damage they can do first hand (typically when buying the rental and seeing what the previous occupants did to it). Here are a few of the things I do:

One of my favorites, and easiest to do, is that I "frame" all wire racks, their support rods, towel holders, toilet paper holders, etc. using backer wood that is mounted to studs. If it's very visible, we'll route the edges and paint it like trim. If it's in a closet, it just gets wall color. This way, if the kids hang off the coat racks or someone abuses the towel holders, they may yank the hardware down, but it doesn't leave holes in the wall. It's also much harder to destroy them in the first place. Note the towel holder mounting:

When first buying a property, if it's easily accessible, I'll replace copper with Pex (plastic) plumbing from the get go, even if the copper is OK. I don't have to worry about it freezing and it's not a crime target.

We cage all of our A/C units now using custom fabricated 2 inch square tube, typically mounting them into the wall so the bolts have to be released from inside. I also lock exterior A/C circuit boxes and label the units, cage and circuit box with A/C specific alarm stickers that I had made up.

I will frequently install an inexpensive alarm system (not monitored) which gives me peace of mind between tenants and acts as a selling point when showing the units.

I've doubled up on door stops (to prevent doorknobs from going into walls). While I use the standard springy ones that mount into baseboard still, they tend to be targets for kids and end up missing, so I back these up with the plastic circles that affix to the wall where the handle would hit. (These are also great for just covering a previously made hole where the door knob hit the wall) They're expensive though, so I've started buying large, bulk packages of plastic, foam-backed pads that you set furniture on, and simply using double sided tape behind these. These cost maybe 30 cents apiece where the purpose built ones cost $3 apiece.

If I have to renovate a bathroom, I no longer use the plastic/fiberglass shower inserts. I've seen people put holes into both the tubs and crack the walls of these. For just a couple hundred more I'll have an iron tub installed and we'll tile the shower. It's a lot more attractive and seems to be a lot more durable in the long run.

What tricks have you learned to "harden" your own rentals?

Best,
- Chuck

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Most Popular Reply

Investor · Statewide, MO · Member since 2011 · 813 posts · 424 votes
14y

Avoid carpet wherever possible. I have begun using allure flooring. It's attractive and allegedly very durable, a 25 year floor. It's floating and waterproof.

Yard: Make as much as possible, mower maintainable. Limit / remove trees and shrubs whenever possible.

Plumbing fixtures: Use shedule 40 drain pipes under bathroom and kitchen sinks with a wye cleanout. I have had so many leaks with the screw together pipe over the years.

Bathroom remodels: Remove any bathroom windows that reside inside a shower enclosure. They can be a massive maintenance headache. Install a fart fan to bring it up to code.

Gas lines: remove all unused fuel runs. Run electric for dryer and stove if electric not present.

Security: 4 inch screws in the latches of all exterior doors. Makes it a little tougher for them to get in and steal my copper.

Storm doors, if present: have chains installed so they can't whip wide open and trash the closers. Be clear with the tenant, they're on the hook for it if anything happens. It's best to remove them altogether.

Appliances: NEVER an icemaker. They make up 50% of appliance service calls. NO THANKS!

If having a furnace installed, pay the extra 10-25 and have a filter rack installed. Makes changing the filter much much easier.

Wish I learned these things on day 1.

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  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    12y

    not sure if i said this or not.. but i have gotten calls for loose door knobs or the deadbolt handle falling off.

    so now i put a drop of loctite on the screws that hold the parts together and no more calls! buy the blue, the red one is too strong and you will need to cut the door off to take them out.

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    12y

    This is a different sort of  "hardening", but today in a unit I'm renovating I changed the ugly Segal vertical deadbolt to a standard cylindrical deadbolt, but with the addition of a steel plate "anti-kick-in" plate buried under the inside casing with 4" screws into the jamb.  The problem with the Segal's is they require massive hacking into lovely old door casings. I restore them with Bondo.

    tomorrow I start on the granite tile counter.  Not only is it 1/3 the price of slab, but it's repairable, important in a buy and hold.

  • Investor · Stamford, CT · Member since 2012 · 247 posts · 63 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by @Chuck B.:

    @Jon K - I put cheap blinds on for a number of reasons... I can do it right without adding a bunch of unnecessary holes in the wall and trim. They show better, both when renting and for as long as they last with the tenant (no sheets hung across windows).  

    What the heck is with sheets strewn across windows?  I never got that--like, at least cut the sheets down the middle & make curtains out of them, lol.  Blinds only cost a couple of bucks at Walmart...but hey, that's just me.

  • Investor · Stamford, CT · Member since 2012 · 247 posts · 63 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by @Jason S.:

    Sad how many here thought this was funny. I have been working with some non-profit housing agencies on a few projects lately and it is no wonder so many are hostile to "Investors".

     I agree..."these people" are the ones lining investors pockets!

  • Investor · Long Beach, CA · Member since 2014 · 56 posts · 12 votes
    12y

    1. Change ceiling fans to dome lights.

    2. Add non slip tape to bath tubs and showers.

    3. Change front door locks to deadbolt only so impossible to get locked out.

    4. Add perimeter motion sensor lights for security.

    5. Install cheapo miniblinds and vertical blinds from Home Depot.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    12y
    Originally posted by @Andy Kaye:

    2. Add non slip tape to bath tubs and showers.

     have you found that those look disgusting around the edges and impossible to clean?

  • Investor · Littleton, MA · Member since 2014 · 37 posts · 1 vote
    12y

    This is basic, but we put steel fire doors at difference outdoor entrances to our apartment building.  We have a tri-plex, and one door that leads up to the two upstairs apartment has been trashed twice.  (Tenant forgot key and instead of callig us - kicked a hole in the door).  We replaced the two exits to the upstairs apartment (on their fire escape stairs) with these doors as well.  They don't weather and can't be broken into.

  • Mechanicsburg, PA · Member since 2013 · 3k+ posts · 2k+ votes
    12y

    We installed interior solid core flush doors instead of hollow core doors, after having 2 places have damaged doors in one year.  They are only a little more in costs, some big box stores stock them, but the other can order them.

  • Rental Property Investor · Wichita, KS · Member since 2014 · 79 posts · 13 votes
    12y

    Very helpful thread.

  • Madison Heights, MI · Member since 2014 · 471 posts · 132 votes
    12y

    I like to use ceramic tile through a whole house. I use FRP or tile for the tub surround and kitchen back splash.

  • Investor · Arlington, VA · Member since 2012 · 1k+ posts · 491 votes
    12y

    @Wilson Churchill Do you find it more difficult do fill your units with tile floors throughout?  It seems as if tenets would generally want carpet?

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    12y
    Originally posted by @Frankie Woods:

    @Wilson Churchill Do you find it more difficult do fill your units with tile floors throughout?  It seems as if tenets would generally want carpet?

     i have the same question.. michigan people hate tiles in rooms

  • Madison Heights, MI · Member since 2014 · 471 posts · 132 votes
    12y

    I haven't had any complaints so far. People question it at first, but when I explain the benefits (easy to clean, keeps the home cool, looks nice), they accept them. Also, I keep my rentals clean and beat out the competition in most cases.

  • Real Estate Investor · Avon, CT · Member since 2014 · 16 posts · 3 votes
    11y

    Do you guys have a link to the tiles that you use?

  • Devin E.Pro Member
    Investor · Torrance, CA · Member since 2014 · 75 posts · 13 votes
    11y
    Great thread
  • Chuck B.Pro Member
    OP
    Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2011 · 279 posts · 248 votes
    11y

    I agree with the "no carpet ever" stance.  No tenant takes care of carpet the way you will.  

    Tile, hardwood and now I'm taking a tip from some previous posters and I'm trying the click-together (not stick-together) vinyl plank tile that looks like wood.  Lots of folks like that Allure product from Home Depot but I'm trying the Shaw product from Lowes.  It's in now and looks great... we'll see how it holds up.   I put vinyl plank tile on the 2nd floor and ceramic tile that looks like plank wood on the 1st floor... looks really nice and in theory should be harder to destroy than wood or laminate floors.  

  • Sam L.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Joliet, IL · Member since 2014 · 163 posts · 85 votes
    11y

    Bump. Starting a reno and looking for more great ideas.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y
  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    11y

    OK, I got a new one. HD has these sweet magnetic combo doorstop/hold open catches for self closing entry doors. One of my peeves is tenants and movers who think the way to hold a self closing door open is to jam a piece of crap into the hinges, which rips out the hinge screws in my old wooden buildings. This way there's a catch for them. Even so I've caught a mover putting a block in the hinges on the door with a catch, "uh, I didn't see it". F-ing moron. Whoever teaches mover this "trick" should be shot, along with the plumbers who set toilets on plaster so they don't rock.

  • Investor · Antioch, CA · Member since 2013 · 79 posts · 58 votes
    11y

    Great thread! Haven't read all the responses yet but have already taken down notes. Thanks!

    I paint my units with the same interior paint (Home Depot's Behr Satin in "Natural Almond") and paint the trim & doors semi-gloss ultra white. Looks awesome, and I always have extra on hand for touch-ups between tenants regardless of which unit it is.

    Definitely recommend lights on timers & mini blinds while units are vacant.

  • Investor · West Bend, WI · Member since 2014 · 214 posts · 149 votes
    11y
    Awesome thread!!!!!
  • Contractor · Anchorage, AK · Member since 2012 · 351 posts · 196 votes
    11y

    I've addressed this before, but worth mentioning again...

    The idea that one should not caulk in a toilet makes absolutely no sense to me and if I lived in an area where to do so was against code, I would do it anyway! Here's why...

    Toilets are held down by two little bolts that are in slotted holes. They are meant to be just snug, as over tightening could cause porcelain to crack. More likely is that over tightening just bends the flange slot, and I've seen bolts pop out of flange because of this.  All it takes is a tenant who plops down onto the toilet to move it and the wax seal can be broken easily with just a little movement. 

    The idea that a toilet shouldn't be caulked so that if a leak ocurrs it can be seen and that this can prevent damage to subfloor makes no sense. More often than not, by the time you see the leak appear around the bowl, the damage is already done. There is often a gap between underpayment or tile and the flange. That would fill up and soak the floor before running out where visible as wax seal leaks are generally a small amount at each flush.

    The best way to prevent damage is to seal the gap around the flange with wax from an extra wax ring. If flooring is vinyl and it is curled around flange, trim it so vinyl edge is flat. Fill the gap with wax and level the wax from flange out over the surface of the flooring so there is nowhere for water to go but onto surface of flooring should a leak develop. Also fill the bolt slot and screw holes and heads on flange with wax after mounting the bolts. Butter entire surface of flange and smooth it out. Now there is no place for the leak to get subsurface and cause damage. AND, "butter" the bottom of toilet where it will contact wax ring. Wax to wax will make a solid seal. I also go against recommended procedures and mount wax ring to the wax buttered flange, not to toilet. Then no damage can occur to ring while moving toilet. Lower toilet straight down onto wax ring. Help may be needed until practiced to help align over bolts and ensure toilet is level with floor as it is lowered. Lower slowly onto flange with a very slight twisting action so wax ring slowly spreads out evenly.

    Caulk the toilet in and it will not move. If the prep is done properly and the wax ring is good and warm when set, you can be confident that it will not leak, and even if a leak does develop, there is no way for it to get to the underlayment or subfloor and cause damage. 

  • Contractor · Anchorage, AK · Member since 2012 · 351 posts · 196 votes
    11y

    Another leak that can cause damage is from dishwasher fittings leaks. I caulk the entire perimeter of the dishwasher space with silicone and create a silicone dam across the gap between rear of cabinets and the back wall or base. If this is all sealed well and there is a leak, the only place for water to go is out onto floor where folks can be alerted to the problem.

    I do the same in fridge space if it has an ice maker as those are usually plastic fittings and compression fittings and prone to leaks.

    Sink bases take a lot of abuse from drain piping leaks. I glue vinyl onto bottom of bases, cut in closely around any pipe penetrations and caulk around entire perimeter. If installed poorly and there are oversized holes in bottom of cabinet, I create a half inch or so tall dam with silicone around the hole. It saves bases and subfloor below when tenants jam crap under sink and jostle drain loose. Then when their junk gets wet, they may say something. 

  • Roy N.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Fredericton, New Brunswick · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Randy F.:

    Another leak that can cause damage is from dishwasher fittings leaks. I caulk the entire perimeter of the dishwasher space with silicone and create a silicone dam across the gap between rear of cabinets and the back wall or base. If this is all sealed well and there is a leak, the only place for water to go is out onto floor where folks can be alerted to the problem.

    I do the same in fridge space if it has an ice maker as those are usually plastic fittings and compression fittings and prone to leaks.

    Sink bases take a lot of abuse from drain piping leaks. I glue vinyl onto bottom of bases, cut in closely around any pipe penetrations and caulk around entire perimeter. If installed poorly and there are oversized holes in bottom of cabinet, I create a half inch or so tall dam with silicone around the hole. It saves bases and subfloor below when tenants jam crap under sink and jostle drain loose. Then when their junk gets wet, they may say something. 

    Randy,

    In addition to those measures, we place a moisture sensor in each of those locations, and in the laundry, which will alert us if things do begin to leak.

  • Investor · Vancouver, WA · Member since 2013 · 3k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Randy F.:

    Another leak that can cause damage is from dishwasher fittings leaks. I caulk the entire perimeter of the dishwasher space with silicone and create a silicone dam across the gap between rear of cabinets and the back wall or base. If this is all sealed well and there is a leak, the only place for water to go is out onto floor where folks can be alerted to the problem.

    Have you heard of a "DWIP" pan? We wouldn't install a dishwasher without one! Click on this youtube video to see and hear all about it.  

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzThv-haqL4

    DWIP = DishWasher Inner Protection

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