Found Some Problems Post Inspection - Need Advice ASAP! (Texas)

Found Some Problems Post Inspection - Need Advice ASAP! (Texas)

Investor · Member since 2016 · 36 posts · 16 votes

I am currently under contract for an SFR in Texas. The house was recently remodelled but after the inspection, there were some issues found. Although the cosmetic finishes look quite good, there are some fundamentals which could pose future problems -

1) No arc flash breakers (AFCI) at the electrical panel - house was built in 1996 prior to the new legislation kicking in, but this is not up to code.  I can only assume as a buyer, I would be required to fix this at some point in the future if there is a problem, which would be expensive..

2) Branch Circuits are wired incorrectly - two neutrals attached to the same busbar, need to install a new busbar at the electrical panel

3) Seller mentioned that the water heater was replaced..inspector found the model is from 2009.  I understand you can buy older water heaters as replacements, but this one would be on its last legs in a few years..

4) Found a small patch of mold behind the kitchen sink..been there before and is an immediate red flag.  I have not done a mold inspection, but the kitchen was remodelled prior to it being listed so I am surprised to find mold/mildew.

5) Seller also mentioned that the bathrooms were completely remodelled, but a toilet was loose, bath water nozzle was also loose with a gap between the nozzle and the wall, and water handle in the master shower is not connected to anything..

6) No roof vents in the attic, even though the roof was replaced..

Keen to get your thoughts!  I'm thinking of terminating, but not sure if these are major issues.

Thanks

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Real Estate Broker · Coppell, TX · Member since 2011 · 5k+ posts · 4k+ votes
5y

All these issues sound pretty common to me....your home inspector did a great job of what you paid them to do and that is scare you out of buying the house, so you bail, get another one, bail on that one, and they get 3 inspections out of you, before you understand these are homes.

The inspection report is often more of a status report these days, not a repairs list or a retrade tool....but see what you can get.

My thought is probably every home in the neighborhood will have the same issues if they were all built by the same builder.

None of these sound particularly like a deal killer to me.  Even if you have to fix some of it, do it and move on.

Not sure what part of Texas, but these days in many areas you should feel lucky just to get the contract.   Minor inspection issues are just the price you pay if you want to be an investor and you want to fix these things or you're just buying a house to live in.  

ArcFault while a good idea, was likely not code when the house was built and likely not code for existing homes. Plenty of people all over the US and all over the world don't have GFCI and Arc Fault. Certainly adds some safety, but likely not required code to bring this home up to new standards of construction today by even the strictest cities that do rental inspections....even the ArcFault rules have changed over time.

My guess is the neutrals are just need to be split up.  Remember an electrician wired this, approved it and city inspector signed off on it.  Pretty common find.  It is so common I think it must be acceptable in the electric trade.  Is it good idea to split them up, yes, but pretty normal to see this and have home inspectors call it out.

Water heaters...I've seen them last 6-7 years on the cheap ones, and some I've seen last 40 years.   Typically I see a lot get replaced about the 8-10 year old mark.  Budget for it or buy a home warranty or have the seller buy you a home warranty.  I wouldn't bail on a house because the water heater has aged....Just one of those capex you have to budget for.  HVAC, Water heaters, roofs....they all have a lifespan.

Did you test for mold?  How do you know it is not mildew?  If it is mold, is the toxic variety.   I would look at this and fix the problem so it doesn't continue.  Something probably leaking.  Maybe you need a new faucet.  If mold scares you, have it tested and remediated.  This doesn't surprise me at all, pretty common.  This is what should propel you to do quarterly inspections, so things like this don't get out of control by tenants who don't care and don't tell you.  Please tell me you've never been in a house, hotel room, camp shower, or school shower that didn't have a little black stuff growing in the grout.  Pretty sure I've even seen it in a hospital.

Loose toilets...buy a wrench...tighten the nuts.....if you're buying investment property you are now a handyman.   I keep adjustable wrench in my car....the rest of the plumbing I would fix, seal things up, secure things, connect things.  Maybe the seller or their trade will do this for you.

No roof vents?  Are there ridge vents, whirly birds, electric fans, solar fans?....nothing?...that surprises me a bit.   Either you leave it or get some installed...or get the roofer to come back out and install.

To me none of these are worth terminating over....otherwise you loose your option, inspection, and potentially appraisal money and your time.  That's easy $1000-$2000 right there that could fix most of these items....and what is to say you don't find the exact same issues in the next house.

Sorry to be a bit harsh and challenging...but to me there is no perfect house, no house without issues.  If you find one that is perfect, something will break sooner or later.

Some of this stuff is like cars.....do you fill up at 1/2 tank 1/4 tank or 1/8 tank or when the red light is on.....Safer to fill up at 1/2, but probably not that many people do that.  Do you immediately quit driving when the check engine light comes on, or do you stop the car, call a tow truck and take it to the dealer, or do you drive a week or two or a month and then take it to Shade Tree Tony to just let him turn the light out?   Do you change tires for safety 1/2 way thru the life or do you run them to they're bald.   Everyone is different, but I would also say even if you buy a brand new home, there are always things that the builder and home inspector disagree on...some things are standard practice and some things are gold standard.  

Just figure out what you and your tenants can live with or without and provide them a good safe environment to live.

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  • Investor · Fredericksburg, VA · Member since 2019 · 37 posts · 17 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal I would question the seller's honesty and/or ability to do rehabs. He must have done the work if it's that shoddy. If you haven't closed yet it's time for renegotiating.

  • Mark F.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Elgin, IL · Member since 2016 · 326 posts · 270 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal most everything else has been commented on and you have good advice already, I only want to mention about the water heater. Just because it as manufactured in 2009 doesn't mean a used one was installed, I had one that was brand new in a box that was in storage until I needed it and sat that way for 5 years. I had actually got it free with a rental I bought that they had installed a brand new water heater and it stopped working, the manufacturer sent them a new on then they determined the problem wasn't with the original water heater to begin with and the manufacturer told them to just keep it. Anyway, my point is technically when I did finally install that one it was brand new and its life expectancy would/should be the same as if I went to Home Depot and picked on up that day.  Just fyi, truth be told you should be able to look at the installed water heater and if it was recently installed or not. If its really been there for 12 years there will be tell tale signs like the amount of dust on it, how the vent stack piping looks and if there is any slight corrosion on it or new/fresh screws, newly soldered copper joints, etc.   

  • Nick BelskyBusiness Member
    Residential and Commercial Broker · Member since 2021 · 1k+ posts · 704 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal

    @Bruce Lynn has hit the nail on the head. I wouldn't terminate based on these conditions, but I also do the work on 95% of my own repairs and remodels, so I may be a bit bias. Welcome to the world of REI!

    Nick

    Belsky Mortgage, LLC527 Reviews
  • Realtor · Brentwood, CA · Member since 2020 · 1 post · 0 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal if you left all contingencies in place, this is a good time to start negotiations. You can always request the seller remedy these issues prior to the close of escrow and get a reinspect. Another thing I always like to do as well is talk to the home inspector. Ask him the level of severity and what his thoughts are on these issues. The 1 thing to keep in mind is inspectors are there to note every item they find, no matter how minimal the issue. Most of the time the verbiage sounds alot scarier than it is.

  • Real Estate Agent · Los Angeles CA + Lake Tahoe, NV and CA · Member since 2021 · 180 posts · 158 votes
    5y

    I'd test for mold, find the issue, see how much it costs. The electrical sounds scary but may be ok.  Some people run out of cash don't know how to find more or what they are doing and finish sloppy. It may be a puzzle you can reverse engineer and get it right. Though if the pluming was also botched that would be a different thing that's probably harder to correct than electrical.  It would really depend on the numbers and if the owner is willing to give back a little or correct it (it can be less offensive if you offer to let them correct it, its not a money grab you just need a safe house)I wouldn't walk from a contract for this is if the numbers worked and house was good otherwise. good luck!

  • Investor · Raleigh, NC · Member since 2019 · 433 posts · 743 votes
    5y

    Honestly these are all very minor issues that you’re going to run into on more inspections than not. I wouldn’t let it stop you. Just portion out a few thousand dollars and fix it up after acquisition.

  • Specialist · Little Ferry, NJ · Member since 2017 · 12 posts · 2 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal if you don't want to deal with the issues at hand yourself have the seller fix them. If you don't mind handling them yourself get an estimate for repairs and request sellers concession or a price reduction.

  • Real Estate Investor · Austin, TX · Member since 2015 · 214 posts · 234 votes
    5y

    Regarding 1) Electrical panel. Our property in Texas (built in the 50's) was purchased in 2018. Two years later, tenant started reporting issues with the power. Utility came out and shut off power pending a replacement of the panel to bring it up to current code. This cost us about $1500.

    When I looked at the inspection, I saw some minor electrical things - nothing that indicated replacing the panel. So, it's lucky that you found that.

  • Real Estate Investor · Austin, TX · Member since 2015 · 214 posts · 234 votes
    5y

    I would ask for concessions and see if the deal still works. 

    These seem like common issues. A flipper isn't necessarily going to replace everything to bring it up to current code (although they should). 

  • Rental Property Investor · Houston, TX · Member since 2019 · 141 posts · 48 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal Hearing your side gives me the impression that this is a lipstick on a pig kind remodel.If you find mold in a fully remodeled house that means they did a sloppy job.They didnot do a mold remediation.Mold remediation is a costly process and all they did was paint over the mold wich is an easy peasy.Like some one mentioned everyone and their uncle are into flips .Did you waive inspection contingency?

  • Real Estate Agent · Northern California · Member since 2019 · 2 posts · 0 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal not 100% sure how it is in Texas.

    Your issues seem fixable, especially if your deal financially makes sense..

    As a realtor in California, I would review all disclosures (before and during contract), submit a request for repair after getting a proposal from a contractor or contractors, and negotiate with the seller (as long as you're still under contract).

    Depending on Texas requirements of what's considered a liability or "not safe", sellers should be fully liable and open to negotiations with your findings.

  • Realtor · Dallas - Fort Worth Metroplex, TX · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 925 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal. Honestly it looks like most inspections these days after a flipper has quickly done all the pretty things. So your agent should guide you on your choices - decide which repairs are important to you (safety only, not cosmetic) . 1- ask for those to be done by the seller 2-ask for a dollar figure cash at close for you to do the repairs 3-reduce offer price by that amount. Based on what the seller says accept or 4 -walk away

    Must happen within your option period.

  • Rental Property Investor · Houston, TX · Member since 2019 · 141 posts · 48 votes
    5y

    @Shyam Panchal

    It all comes to Cash flow .If you are buying this ppty as a rental i would look into is this a killer deal to pass.From the conversation it seems you are buying a top of line ppty which has some minor and some major issues .Any one can say donot pass it on ,it is hard to find pptys as it is a sellers market,that doesnot mean you have to buy a rehabbed ppty (possibly a lipstick on a pig) and then throw money @it again if it is a skinny deal.A NO DEAL IS BETTER THAN A BAD DEAL.

    Water heater i would not worry too much will cost 400$+Labor

    The AFCI needs attention bcoz in most cities in texas a remodel will not pass city rules if a new breaker box is not installed ,try negotiating with seller on it.Either he puts afci or you get a reduction .It will cost 1000$ + labor

    Mold is a concern.How was it fixed ask if they got professional remediation.Ask to see proof.If proper mold treatment was not done and you do like someone said just brush it off with vinegar or stuff you are on the hook if your tenants get mold in their system.Now it is on you to professionally remediate mold for your tenants (expect couple of 1000$) else you are looking @ a lawsuit down the road if the tenant know what they are doing and trust me tenants will

    If you have inspection contingency on your contract i would fig out how much the repairs cost and negotiate based on that.

  • Jewel B.Pro Member
    New to Real Estate · Lehigh Valley, PA · Member since 2021 · 352 posts · 120 votes
    5y

    Just for another perspective, when my toilet was loose it was because the entire subfloor was rotted and the subfloor and floors had to be redone. 

  • Investor · Member since 2016 · 36 posts · 16 votes
    5y

    Unfortunately, the Seller is playing hardball and isn't willing to make concessions.  They already reduced the purchase price down by $10k prior to the inspection ($5k below asking).  Although some of these issues are solvable, mold is a serious issue that isn't easily fixable.  The issue probably isn't that serious, but you never know with mold.

    After speaking to an electrician, the electrics are not so much of an issue but still costly to fix ($4-$6k).  The roof will be about $1-$2k I assume.  The water heater can be covered by a home warranty.  The dishwasher and disposal don't even work even though the kitchen was rehabbed.  The shower doesn't work in one of the bathrooms. 

    Here is a summary of issues from the inspection report

    1) No roof vents for attic ventilation (this is a brand new roof barely 2 months old)

    2) Satellite dish is screwed directly through roof surfacing (this is a brand new roof barely 2 months old)

    3) Some roof coverings are damaged (this is a brand new roof barely 2 months old)

    4) Pull down attic stairs not properly insulated (not a bid deal, easily fixable)

    5) Missing or damaged soffit screens (not a bid deal, easily fixable)

    6) Mold on interior walls behind the kitchen sink (The kitchen was "rehabbed")

    7) Firewall behind the furnace was breached in one or more areas in the garage (garage was also "rehabbed")

    8) Exterior brick siding has hairline cracks (not a big deal)

    9) Exterior trim boards have gaps leading to water intrusion (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    10) Wood rot observed on one or more areas of siding (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    11) Noticeable repairs made to one or more areas of the ceiling (not a big deal)

    12) Wood rot on one or more areas of exterior doors (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    13) One or more privacy doors jamb when closing (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    14) One or more privacy doors do not latch (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    15) Windows have missing screens and damaged springs (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    16) Some windows do not stay open (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    17) Cracked double-paned window (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    18) Dampers are missing required clamps to prevent closure on gas log fireplace (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    19) Fresh air vent at chimney is loose at the wall (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    20) Wood deck showing signs of deteriorating in areas (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    21) Grounding rod near electrical meter is missing the required clamp (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    22) Latch for the main electrical panel is missing (Maybe best to replace the whole box)

    23) No antioxidant on aluminium conductors 

    24) No smoke detectors..(not a big deal, easily fixable)

    25) No Arc Fault Breakers in required areas of electrical panel

    26) Doorbell does not work (not a big deal, easily fixable)

    27) Branch circuits miswired to a single bus bar

    28) Gas furnace does not have a sediment catcher

    29) HVAC does not have overflow drain pan

    30) Water heater is a 2009 model (was "replaced")

    31) Corrosion observed on the hot water handle for laundry connections

    32) Toilet loose in bathroom (bathroom was "rehabbed")

    33) Gap between wall and faucet in guest bathroom shower (bathroom was "rehabbed")

    34) Hot water handle in master shower spins and does not turn on (bathroom was "rehabbed")

    35) Leaks under all sinks observed

    36) Dishwasher drain hose did not form a loop and create a trap under sink

    37) Door on dishwasher does not latch 

    38) Disposal was not plugged in and was not tested (probably doesn't work)

    39) No anti-tipping device on stove, and back left burner does not work

    40) Sprinkler system was not tested.  Water was shut off and backflow preventer was damaged.  

    You can see it's quite a long list of items to repair from a far distance....I don't think the $10k concession would cover all of it.

    The cash flow, however, is quite good..at $500 a month..








          

  • Real Estate Investor · Austin, TX · Member since 2015 · 214 posts · 234 votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Shyam Panchal:

    3) Seller mentioned that the water heater was replaced..inspector found the model is from 2009.  I understand you can buy older water heaters as replacements, but this one would be on its last legs in a few years..


    Curious about this. If I understand correctly, the seller recently acquired and remodeled this home and *replaced* the water heater with an old model. The only reason I could think of for this is that the federal standards mandated a certain size and the new ones don't fit into the existing space (typically, an attic). I remember this was a big issue a few years ago and people were scrambling to figure out what to do.

  • WorldWide · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    5y

    how did you come up with $500/mo cash flow? honestly, this "rehab" if you can call it that stinks to high heavens. i think your mind is getting clouded with the assumed cash flow amount. i foresee quite a few capex/opex items in your near future. the roof alone is completely unacceptable. they probably had some shingle slappers come out and knock it out in one afternoon. wouldn't be surprised if there are more issues hiding underneath. everything is fixable, but i'd be weary of everything else you cannot see. has your inspector snaked the drains and made sure there are no leaks in water lines? plumbing issues are the worst, and if go unnoticed, can cause a ton of damage.

    also, are you paying top dollar (read:retail) for this property? i'd seriously weigh all the feedback you've received here and then make a decision.

  • Gillette, WY · Member since 2017 · 149 posts · 68 votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Nathan Gesner:

    What's the home worth to you? Talk to a contractor, get an estimate of what it would cost to fix these items and move forward with the purchase, or you cancel and walk away.

    Almost everything you mentioned is extremely minor. A home built in the 90's isn't automatically a fire hazard just because it doesn't meet electrical code of 2021. Tiny mold can be removed with a water/bleach solution and a rag in 5 minutes. My office and a vacation rental both had water heaters that were 40 years old and never, ever failed on me. Toilet bolts and water nozzles can be tightened. Roof vents can be installed.

    Figure out if you can negotiate repairs so it meets your standard or walk away.

    Would home insurance cover the damages from a water heater that failed with that kind of age?

  • Investor · Member since 2016 · 36 posts · 16 votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Corey Frank:
    Originally posted by @Nathan Gesner:

    What's the home worth to you? Talk to a contractor, get an estimate of what it would cost to fix these items and move forward with the purchase, or you cancel and walk away.

    Almost everything you mentioned is extremely minor. A home built in the 90's isn't automatically a fire hazard just because it doesn't meet electrical code of 2021. Tiny mold can be removed with a water/bleach solution and a rag in 5 minutes. My office and a vacation rental both had water heaters that were 40 years old and never, ever failed on me. Toilet bolts and water nozzles can be tightened. Roof vents can be installed.

    Figure out if you can negotiate repairs so it meets your standard or walk away.

    Would home insurance cover the damages from a water heater that failed with that kind of age?

    Depends on the home insurance, but I decided not to go ahead with the purchase because there was $10k-$15k worth of additional repairs post the rehab.  

  • Severna Park, MD · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 7k+ votes
    5y

    No house is perfect . Everything mentioned are minor simple fixes , 2K to 3k . You will never buy a investment property if you get too nit picky . If the numbers work go for it .

  • Rental Property Investor · TN · Member since 2018 · 2k+ posts · 2k+ votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Shyam Panchal:
    Originally posted by @Corey Frank:
    Originally posted by @Nathan Gesner:

    What's the home worth to you? Talk to a contractor, get an estimate of what it would cost to fix these items and move forward with the purchase, or you cancel and walk away.

    Almost everything you mentioned is extremely minor. A home built in the 90's isn't automatically a fire hazard just because it doesn't meet electrical code of 2021. Tiny mold can be removed with a water/bleach solution and a rag in 5 minutes. My office and a vacation rental both had water heaters that were 40 years old and never, ever failed on me. Toilet bolts and water nozzles can be tightened. Roof vents can be installed.

    Figure out if you can negotiate repairs so it meets your standard or walk away.

    Would home insurance cover the damages from a water heater that failed with that kind of age?

    Depends on the home insurance, but I decided not to go ahead with the purchase because there was $10k-$15k worth of additional repairs post the rehab.  

    Plus what ever hidden things you find.  They were not good flippers to say the least!

  • Rental Property Investor · Concord, GA · Member since 2015 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
    5y

    Many of our properties don't have any vents in the roof. There are gable vents (louvers in the gable end of the house on both ends) If the property has these, you should be fine. Everything else you listed sounds like minor issues. I don't know how many home inspection reports you're read but most of them would have a similar list. The list should be shorter on a flipped property but many flippers pay attention to cosmetics but not mechanicals. Get over the water heater thing. So what if it's from 2009. If it's not leaking and it makes the water hot, worry about something else. Just don't "add" to the price of the property. We have one property that has arc fault breakers and well over a dozen that don't. These are rarely required after the fact and even if they are, you're looking at a couple hundred dollars to install them. Most attic drop down steps are not insulated. We don't have any properties where they are. So you're really over thinking this list.

  • Investor · Member since 2016 · 36 posts · 16 votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Victor S.:

    how did you come up with $500/mo cash flow? honestly, this "rehab" if you can call it that stinks to high heavens. i think your mind is getting clouded with the assumed cash flow amount. i foresee quite a few capex/opex items in your near future. the roof alone is completely unacceptable. they probably had some shingle slappers come out and knock it out in one afternoon. wouldn't be surprised if there are more issues hiding underneath. everything is fixable, but i'd be weary of everything else you cannot see. has your inspector snaked the drains and made sure there are no leaks in water lines? plumbing issues are the worst, and if go unnoticed, can cause a ton of damage.

    also, are you paying top dollar (read:retail) for this property? i'd seriously weigh all the feedback you've received here and then make a decision.

    My agent pulled recent comps for the area and homes of similar fashion were renting for $1900 a month.  I also verified my agent's opinion with another agent I am in contact with and she verified his estimate is correct.  I was also able to find comps that supported the $1900 a month estimate.  Total costs were coming to around $1400 a month at a $260k purchase price.  

    I didn't go ahead with the purchase though.  I received some quotes from contractors that said there are $10k-$15k of additional repairs I would need to complete.  The Seller also refused to reduce the price further so I walked away.

  • WorldWide · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Shyam Panchal:
    Originally posted by @Victor S.:

    how did you come up with $500/mo cash flow? honestly, this "rehab" if you can call it that stinks to high heavens. i think your mind is getting clouded with the assumed cash flow amount. i foresee quite a few capex/opex items in your near future. the roof alone is completely unacceptable. they probably had some shingle slappers come out and knock it out in one afternoon. wouldn't be surprised if there are more issues hiding underneath. everything is fixable, but i'd be weary of everything else you cannot see. has your inspector snaked the drains and made sure there are no leaks in water lines? plumbing issues are the worst, and if go unnoticed, can cause a ton of damage.

    also, are you paying top dollar (read:retail) for this property? i'd seriously weigh all the feedback you've received here and then make a decision.

    My agent pulled recent comps for the area and homes of similar fashion were renting for $1900 a month.  I also verified my agent's opinion with another agent I am in contact with and she verified his estimate is correct.  I was also able to find comps that supported the $1900 a month estimate.  Total costs were coming to around $1400 a month at a $260k purchase price.  

    I didn't go ahead with the purchase though.  I received some quotes from contractors that said there are $10k-$15k of additional repairs I would need to complete.  The Seller also refused to reduce the price further so I walked away.

    $1400 is PITI, i take it? if so, once you add reserves, you'd be lucky to have $100/mo left. that's why it's so important to have these numbers first and work downstream from there. for such a pita house with minimal cashflow, i think you did the right thing.

  • Investor · Member since 2016 · 36 posts · 16 votes
    5y
    Originally posted by @Victor S.:
    Originally posted by @Shyam Panchal:
    Originally posted by @Victor S.:

    how did you come up with $500/mo cash flow? honestly, this "rehab" if you can call it that stinks to high heavens. i think your mind is getting clouded with the assumed cash flow amount. i foresee quite a few capex/opex items in your near future. the roof alone is completely unacceptable. they probably had some shingle slappers come out and knock it out in one afternoon. wouldn't be surprised if there are more issues hiding underneath. everything is fixable, but i'd be weary of everything else you cannot see. has your inspector snaked the drains and made sure there are no leaks in water lines? plumbing issues are the worst, and if go unnoticed, can cause a ton of damage.

    also, are you paying top dollar (read:retail) for this property? i'd seriously weigh all the feedback you've received here and then make a decision.

    My agent pulled recent comps for the area and homes of similar fashion were renting for $1900 a month.  I also verified my agent's opinion with another agent I am in contact with and she verified his estimate is correct.  I was also able to find comps that supported the $1900 a month estimate.  Total costs were coming to around $1400 a month at a $260k purchase price.  

    I didn't go ahead with the purchase though.  I received some quotes from contractors that said there are $10k-$15k of additional repairs I would need to complete.  The Seller also refused to reduce the price further so I walked away.

    $1400 is PITI, i take it? if so, once you add reserves, you'd be lucky to have $100/mo left. that's why it's so important to have these numbers first and work downstream from there. for such a pita house with minimal cashflow, i think you did the right thing.

    $1400 is PITI. I keep everything in reserve for the next investment, but if I was to purchase this property, I would not have profited until year 3.

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