Real Estate Investor · Seattle, WA · Member since 2009 · 308 posts · 61 votes
I have a leaking hot water heater. It is not leaking much at all and I cant find where it is even coming from.
I starred at it 10mins and did not see a drop but the floor is wet.
I believe it is leaking from the top under the ridge where the metal cover ends since i see water mark stains on the ridge and top half.
My tenants said the city was messing with the street water lines and then they noticed the water heater leaking immeaditly. They think it was the pressure of the street lines.
The water still heats up asap.
I know nothing about the water heaters.. How can i start to trouble shoot this and find the leak around the tank?
Flipper · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 973 posts · 679 votes
16y
I've seen water heater leaks in couple different places.
The water lines entering the unit: These can leak if the water heater gets bumped, or if the rubber seals wear out. As someone else pointed out, they are very easy to tighten or replace.
The t&p valve: The drain valve near the top of the tank will leak if the water heater has too much pressure. That could be caused by a bad element or thermostat. (or control unit in a gas WH). Once that valve opens, it may not close all the way, so replacing the valve might be necessary, even if the pressure has already reduced itself.
Elements: Someone else mentioned this too I think, if you have an electric water heater, it may leak around the elements, this is visible if you take the covers off. New elements are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Drain valve: I've seen the drain valve leak at the bottom of the tank if it gets so much lime in it that the water can seep through. Again, these are easy to replace. If you do replace it, replace with a brass valve and not a plastic one, it will make your life easier in the future.
Tank: If the water is leaking inside the metal case, or onto the gas burner, and you can't tell where its from, there's a good chance the tank cracked. Most water heaters will last 10-15 years, but 5-10 isn't unheard of with hard water. If it's a gas WH, reach under the tank where the burner is and feel for rust and moisture. If the tank is cracked, the water heater needs to be replaced
Anode Rod: I've never seen a tank leak here, but it is another item that screws into the tank, so i suppose it's possible. The rod is topped by a square bolt looking thing on the top of the water heater, it also just screws out and back in.
Architect · Hillsborough, NC · Member since 2010 · 30 posts · 5 votes
16y
How old is the water heater? Is it an electric or gas water heater? From my experience a water heater usually fails near the insert for the element (for an electric water heater) simply due to the age of the unit. It could be the pressure increased slightly and that was enough to start a drip. You will need to take the covers off the insulation jacket - usually a sheet metal cover with a couple screws. That should give you a better idea on where it is leaking.
Contractor · hollister, CA · Member since 2010 · 13 posts · 4 votes
16y
ive seen water heaters go in tree years or so out my way due to very hard water so just leave it olone with a drip pan for afew months so when its bursts lest say while your tennants are out of town one day or in the middle of the night oh yea dont forget that the leak ruined gramas wedding dress thats been in the famiily for 60 years !!!! if its an older water heater just replace it save yourself lots of grief and possibly a call at 10 pm
SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
16y
I've seen water heaters leak in two places. The first is the water lines on top where they attach to the unit. If those are bad, both can be replaced by anyone handy with a wrench for about $25. The second place is on the bottom when the tank itself rusts out. The only fix there is replacement.
Flipper · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 973 posts · 679 votes
16y
I've seen water heater leaks in couple different places.
The water lines entering the unit: These can leak if the water heater gets bumped, or if the rubber seals wear out. As someone else pointed out, they are very easy to tighten or replace.
The t&p valve: The drain valve near the top of the tank will leak if the water heater has too much pressure. That could be caused by a bad element or thermostat. (or control unit in a gas WH). Once that valve opens, it may not close all the way, so replacing the valve might be necessary, even if the pressure has already reduced itself.
Elements: Someone else mentioned this too I think, if you have an electric water heater, it may leak around the elements, this is visible if you take the covers off. New elements are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Drain valve: I've seen the drain valve leak at the bottom of the tank if it gets so much lime in it that the water can seep through. Again, these are easy to replace. If you do replace it, replace with a brass valve and not a plastic one, it will make your life easier in the future.
Tank: If the water is leaking inside the metal case, or onto the gas burner, and you can't tell where its from, there's a good chance the tank cracked. Most water heaters will last 10-15 years, but 5-10 isn't unheard of with hard water. If it's a gas WH, reach under the tank where the burner is and feel for rust and moisture. If the tank is cracked, the water heater needs to be replaced
Anode Rod: I've never seen a tank leak here, but it is another item that screws into the tank, so i suppose it's possible. The rod is topped by a square bolt looking thing on the top of the water heater, it also just screws out and back in.
Loveland, CO · Member since 2008 · 1k+ posts · 123 votes
16y
One of the causes of leaks at the pipes is that whoever installed the unit didn't take the FINAL AND IMPORTANT STEP or removing SHARP EDGES from the ends of the pipe nipples. The manufacturing process leaves a sharp edge on the end of the nipple. This edge can and will CUT THE RUBBER SEAL, leading to leaks.
It only takes a few minutes to do it right, but almost noone does it right.
Real Estate Investor · Audubon, PA · Member since 2009 · 13k+ posts · 8k+ votes
16y
Another thing that should be used in most cases is an expansion tank. They are inexpensive, and easy to install, but for some reason they are omitted far too often.
Water heaters have a plastic drain valve. Sometimes it drips. If so, it is no cause for concern. On the other hand, if the tank itself appears to be leaking, then it is rusting out and there's really nothing you can do about it. Eventually, the tank will break and you'll have to replace it- or turn off the water to it and make do with cold water until you can afford to replace it.
Flipper · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 973 posts · 679 votes
16y
Originally posted by Yurish Oko:
Water heaters have a plastic drain valve. Sometimes it drips. If so, it is no cause for concern. On the other hand, if the tank itself appears to be leaking, then it is rusting out and there's really nothing you can do about it. Eventually, the tank will break and you'll have to replace it or turn off the water to it and make do with cold water until you can afford to replace it.
Ah nostalgia. This post is several months old, and has been resolved. Hopefully you'll do more on the site than advertise.
That said, a water heater should not leak. If the drain valve is leaking, test your t&p valve to make sure the pressure isn't building, then replace your drain valve with a brass one.
Real Estate Investor · Portage, MI · Member since 2010 · 470 posts · 315 votes
16y
Originally posted by Marc Freislinger:
Originally posted by Yurish Oko:
Water heaters have a plastic drain valve. Sometimes it drips. If so, it is no cause for concern. On the other hand, if the tank itself appears to be leaking, then it is rusting out and there's really nothing you can do about it. Eventually, the tank will break and you'll have to replace it or turn off the water to it and make do with cold water until you can afford to replace it.
Ah nostalgia. This post is several months old, and has been resolved. Hopefully you'll do more on the site than advertise.
That said, a water heater should not leak. If the drain valve is leaking, test your t&p valve to make sure the pressure isn't building, then replace your drain valve with a brass one.
Marc,
As a plumber in a past life....I would not test the relief valve! Often they do not re-seat and will start leaking. A visual inspection to make sure that there is no slow leak (evidenced by corrosion) that would prevent it from working in the event of high temp or pressure is all I would recommend. As far as the drain valve goes, yes, either replace it with a brass one or screw a brass hose cap and washer on it to stop the leak. Even with a new valve, all it takes is a little scale (what you want to flush out) to cause the valve to leak. While we are on water heaters....a misconception is that you drain them every 6 months or year. You should FLUSH them with a hose while leaving the water on. Do this for about 5-10 minutes once a year unless you have very hard water, then 2 times a year. It will help prolong the WH life.
Bill
Real Estate Investor · Portage, MI · Member since 2010 · 470 posts · 315 votes
16y
Hey Steve!
I do sometimes use an expansion tank to prevent building pressure and popping the relief valve. You usually don't need one unless you have a domestic hot water recirculation system with a check valve. You also may need one if you have a backflow preventer on your main water supply. A few municipalities require them. In general, though, when the hot water expands upon heating, the additional volume (usually 1/2 to 1 gal for a residential system) will just expand into the municipal system or if you are on well water, into the well expansion tank. It doesn't hurt to use one, though if you want to. Just some extra cost that I would use in maybe 1 of 100 systems.
Hope this helps!
Bill
Real Estate Investor · Audubon, PA · Member since 2009 · 13k+ posts · 8k+ votes
16y
Sounds good Bill. In my area of high pressure from city, we have to use pressure-reducers - so I think the water won't flow back. So I use expansion tanks in those houses.
Real Estate Investor · Seattle, WA · Member since 2009 · 308 posts · 61 votes
16y
This water heater is leaking again from the top insulation up above the thermostat removable plate. Its dripping slowly to the heating element thermostat area and collecting.
I am not sure if the city turned the water off and turned it back on causing build up in pressure.
Nothing visible from the top or heating element area is leaking.
I turned down the thermostat from mid to low and it leaked more within 24hrs.
Is it time to buy a new electric water heater or is there a build up in pressure and should I drain some pressure out of the top relief valve?
The heater is heating water fine but this leak is slow and my tenant wants answers right away.
Real Estate Investor · Craigmont, ID · Member since 2009 · 564 posts · 239 votes
16y
How old is the unit? If it is leaking out of the upper element/thermostat cover then the leak is likely on top of the heater. One of the pipe nipples in the top might be loose or damaged.
The pressure is constant and will be the same whether or not you turn on the water. The pressure across the entire city would have to be higher in order for yours to change and this would have to be drastically different in order to cause a leak. You would notice the faucet spraying VERY hard if there was enough pressure to spring a leak.
Real Estate Investor · Craigmont, ID · Member since 2009 · 564 posts · 239 votes
16y
The top of a water heater has 2 sockets into which one must put a short piece of pipe (pipe nipple)
Look around the pipes on top and look for even a little water seeping out right next to the heater or where the flex pipes are attached to the nipple just a few inches above the top of the heater.
How old is the unit? While a leaking pipe does not call for replacement of the heater it might be better just to replace it if it is an old unit.
Real Estate Investor · Seattle, WA · Member since 2009 · 308 posts · 61 votes
16y
Not sure how old. Bought the prop few years ago.
Nothing on the visible top is leaking 100% dry. The water coming down from above the element heater is rusty and its all rusty all around the higher heating element area.
Flipper · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 973 posts · 679 votes
16y
If you can't see the leak anywhere with all the panels removed, the tank is probably cracked.
Check all the areas I mentioned in my original post, and if you still can't see where its comming from, it's probably time for a new one. Electric water heaters usually aren't extremely expensive.
Save yourself some grief though and find one with the same dimensions as the one you're replacing (height and width). Always be sure to replace the drain pan if it has one, or install one if you're upstairs. The old ones can get really brittle.