How do you "harden" your rentals?

How do you "harden" your rentals?

Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2011 · 279 posts · 248 votes

Dear Pocketers,

How do you harden / bullet-proof your rentals?

While I've never had anyone utterly trash a rental of mine, I've seen the damage they can do first hand (typically when buying the rental and seeing what the previous occupants did to it). Here are a few of the things I do:

One of my favorites, and easiest to do, is that I "frame" all wire racks, their support rods, towel holders, toilet paper holders, etc. using backer wood that is mounted to studs. If it's very visible, we'll route the edges and paint it like trim. If it's in a closet, it just gets wall color. This way, if the kids hang off the coat racks or someone abuses the towel holders, they may yank the hardware down, but it doesn't leave holes in the wall. It's also much harder to destroy them in the first place. Note the towel holder mounting:

When first buying a property, if it's easily accessible, I'll replace copper with Pex (plastic) plumbing from the get go, even if the copper is OK. I don't have to worry about it freezing and it's not a crime target.

We cage all of our A/C units now using custom fabricated 2 inch square tube, typically mounting them into the wall so the bolts have to be released from inside. I also lock exterior A/C circuit boxes and label the units, cage and circuit box with A/C specific alarm stickers that I had made up.

I will frequently install an inexpensive alarm system (not monitored) which gives me peace of mind between tenants and acts as a selling point when showing the units.

I've doubled up on door stops (to prevent doorknobs from going into walls). While I use the standard springy ones that mount into baseboard still, they tend to be targets for kids and end up missing, so I back these up with the plastic circles that affix to the wall where the handle would hit. (These are also great for just covering a previously made hole where the door knob hit the wall) They're expensive though, so I've started buying large, bulk packages of plastic, foam-backed pads that you set furniture on, and simply using double sided tape behind these. These cost maybe 30 cents apiece where the purpose built ones cost $3 apiece.

If I have to renovate a bathroom, I no longer use the plastic/fiberglass shower inserts. I've seen people put holes into both the tubs and crack the walls of these. For just a couple hundred more I'll have an iron tub installed and we'll tile the shower. It's a lot more attractive and seems to be a lot more durable in the long run.

What tricks have you learned to "harden" your own rentals?

Best,
- Chuck

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Investor · Statewide, MO · Member since 2011 · 814 posts · 425 votes
14y

Avoid carpet wherever possible. I have begun using allure flooring. It's attractive and allegedly very durable, a 25 year floor. It's floating and waterproof.

Yard: Make as much as possible, mower maintainable. Limit / remove trees and shrubs whenever possible.

Plumbing fixtures: Use shedule 40 drain pipes under bathroom and kitchen sinks with a wye cleanout. I have had so many leaks with the screw together pipe over the years.

Bathroom remodels: Remove any bathroom windows that reside inside a shower enclosure. They can be a massive maintenance headache. Install a fart fan to bring it up to code.

Gas lines: remove all unused fuel runs. Run electric for dryer and stove if electric not present.

Security: 4 inch screws in the latches of all exterior doors. Makes it a little tougher for them to get in and steal my copper.

Storm doors, if present: have chains installed so they can't whip wide open and trash the closers. Be clear with the tenant, they're on the hook for it if anything happens. It's best to remove them altogether.

Appliances: NEVER an icemaker. They make up 50% of appliance service calls. NO THANKS!

If having a furnace installed, pay the extra 10-25 and have a filter rack installed. Makes changing the filter much much easier.

Wish I learned these things on day 1.

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  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    13y

    thought of another one..

    most utility companies have an "appliance plan". for $20, they will fix or replace any appliance.

    i have it in my lease that they have to get that plan.

    if i did not know how to fix things i'd even pay for this kind of plan myself. for $20, it even covers the furnace..

  • Investor · Southeast, MI · Member since 2012 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    13y

    Another plumbing thing I do is replace bathtub drains with PVC. The metal ones always end up dripping at the shoe. I also put in the kind with the twist up drain. The ones with the grid drain have a lever to close off the drain for a bath. These levers can be out of adjustment and the tub won't hold water. The tenant will call you.

    With the twist up drain, It's either open or closed. There's no adjestment to be made. Also, don't buy those at the big box stores. They are WAY cheaper at a plumbing supply place. In fact, I rarely buy anything plumbing related at HD.

  • West, MI · Member since 2012 · 674 posts · 182 votes
    13y
    Originally posted by Rob K:
    Another plumbing thing I do is replace bathtub drains with PVC. The metal ones always end up dripping at the shoe. I also put in the kind with the twist up drain. The ones with the grid drain have a lever to close off the drain for a bath. These levers can be out of adjustment and the tub won't hold water. The tenant will call you.

    With the twist up drain, It's either open or closed. There's no adjestment to be made. Also, don't buy those at the big box stores. They are WAY cheaper at a plumbing supply place. In fact, I rarely buy anything plumbing related at HD.

    My only concern with the twist up bath drains is you lose the screen and all the hair and kids small bath toys go down the drain.

    I'm with ya on the shoe, had a one leak above a textured drywall ceiling. Frustrating, It's next to impossible to match a texture so next time that unit is empty the ceiling needs to scraped and redone.

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    13y
    Originally posted by Ryan M.:

    I'm with ya on the shoe, had a one leak above a textured drywall ceiling. Frustrating, It's next to impossible to match a texture so next time that unit is empty the ceiling needs to scraped and redone.

    The ghetto solution in my recent purchase where they're all above each other is dropped ceilings in the kitchens and baths. Just pull the tile, fix the tub plumbing, pop in new tile. I hate the look, but you can't argue with the practicality. Even if the plumbing is sound, all it takes is an overflowing sink or a kid playing tsunami in the tub to ruin the ceiling below.

    Slightly OT, but if you really want to save money, don't rent to fertile people! My water bill for that 4U with 3 families and a single was $300/month this winter! I can't be sure but there was around 16 people living there.

  • Investor · New Haven, CT · Member since 2012 · 285 posts · 175 votes
    13y

    #1) For the bathroom I always install a fixed shower rod, the friction fit ones always fall down and ruin the walls. The ones I get from HD cost about $12 and screw in on both sides.

    #2) For unit entry doors, install a keyed deadbolt and a passage knob below it (without a key). this eliminates the tenant from locking themselves out since they always need a key to lock the door.

    #3) I like to inventory just about anything that can break in my units by taking pictures of them & zoom in on model #'s/finish if possible. I then file them in a folder for that unit on my computer. This way when there is an issue you can get a jump start on troubleshooting or ordering parts without having to go to the unit. It also allows you to talk the tenant through the issue easier if you know what is there.

    #4) I like to install cheep subway tile on the wall that the toilet is on. The area behind the toilet always gets nasty and needs to be repainted @ every turnover, this way you just mop it. plus it looks a lot nicer.

  • Real Estate Investor · Omaha, NE · Member since 2012 · 4 posts · 1 vote
    13y

    We purchased a cell phone based wireless alarm system that we place in our units when vacant. You can log in on line and change the address of the property. The system is monitored for $15.00/month. So far it has worked for us. The system we use can be seen at www.simplisafe.com

  • Real Estate Investor · Fenton, MI · Member since 2008 · 946 posts · 153 votes
    13y
    Originally posted by Dawn A.:
    The dishwasher is not causing any water problems and works just fine. I generally don't supply ANY appliances unless I have to and I would not buy brand new appliances every 2 years; that's a waste of money. If a dishwasher was there before, I'm not going to leave a gaping hole in the cabinets.

    I like how you think aobut saving money. We too had a hole where the dishwasher was and filled it with a used one from Goodwill. However it does not work right, so we were thinking of just puting up a curtain rod and saying that is where the trash can goes.

  • Dawn AnastasiPro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2013 · 6k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    13y

    Steve Might, that's a nifty idea! Just need to do something with the water line, drain line, and electrical.

  • Contractor · Anchorage, AK · Member since 2012 · 351 posts · 196 votes
    13y

    One of the appliance repair companies here in Anchorage refurbishes all types of appliances. I can get a decent dishwasher that has been gone thru for $100 and comes with a six month repair or replace warranty. They are pretty low key about it because they dont want to risk working relationships they have for warranty service with the appliance retailers. You all might make some calls in your area to see if someone there is doing this. Its likely as there is good money in it. They get used appliances for free when people upgrade... they have contracts with the box stores to haul off what their installers pull. Find out from box stores who hauls away their used stuff or does their warranty wor, and you might find a great source for reliable used appliances.

  • Real Estate Agent · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2010 · 129 posts · 24 votes
    12y

    my friend who own's frat houses, places 1/2in plywood on all the walls, then drywalls over them, this way the only thing broken is the hot head's hand and not so much the wall.

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by Alex Anderson:
    my friend who own's frat houses, places 1/2in plywood on all the walls, then drywalls over them, this way the only thing broken is the hot head's hand and not so much the wall.

    That's adding a LOT of combustible to the house. I wonder what the fire marshalls would say. Probably cheaper and easier to put 2 layers 5/8 drywall. No fist going through that and that's like a 2 hr fire rating.

  • Real Estate Investor · Houston, TX · Member since 2013 · 30 posts · 13 votes
    12y

    As a Fraternity member who has experience in college living in rental makeshift Fraternity homes that unfortunate landlords were stupid enough to rent to me and my drunken brothers, I would advise heavily that everyone here stays entirely out of that market. I love real estate and I love my fraternity but I would never mix the 2. Bad idea, can't stress that enough...

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by Trevor Schumann:
    As a Fraternity member who has experience in college living in rental makeshift Fraternity homes that unfortunate landlords were stupid enough to rent to me and my drunken brothers, I would advise heavily that everyone here stays entirely out of that market. I love real estate and I love my fraternity but I would never mix the 2. Bad idea, can't stress that enough...

    At my university the houses of a frat quad they built in the early 70's were like bunkers. Much of the interior walls were cinderblock, the exterior brick, and no windows faced the quad. They were angled 90 deg to reduce breakage from projectiles. Sadly, a couple of decades after my tenure the frat lost it's charter due to a pledge dying of alcohol. In my day it was more of a weed house.

  • Roy N.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Fredericton, New Brunswick · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    12y
    Originally posted by Alex Anderson:
    my friend who own's frat houses, places 1/2in plywood on all the walls, then drywalls over them, this way the only thing broken is the hot head's hand and not so much the wall.

    We just use 5/8" fire core drywall ... it'll treat the hothead about the same as the 1/2 ply and makes the building inspector smile and the fire marshall dance.

  • Real Estate Investor · Millbrook, AL · Member since 2008 · 68 posts · 34 votes
    12y

    My favorite long term money savers are a false floor / drainboard (higher in the back)under all sinks so any leakage will get on the floor instead of rotting out the cabinets.

    I also apply poleurathane varnish under all laminate / particleboard countertops and new cabinets so everything is pre-sealed against water intrusion. I do the backs, bottoms and all edges before installing.

    I build a 2x4 base that fits perfectly underneath the inside of the base of the cabinets because well meaning tenants tend to spill the mop buckets they use every year or so and the bottom edge of those particleboard cabinets crumbles and sinks and melts into the floor "if" it ever gets wet.

    I too use 1x4's to back up all towel rods and such.

    I use 3/4 inch galvanized pipe for all shower curtain rods installed strong enough to do pull-ups.

    I use contact paper for all tub and shower surrounds. The stuff lasts forever. It's amazing stuff. Cheap too. :) Apply it after painting with high gloss latex.

    I'm so sick and tired of dealing with moisture in bathrooms that I have taken to building a six inch or more stub wall starting on top of the tub going up the wall across the ceilng and down the back wall to the tub. This creates a walled in effect so no steam gets out above the shower curtain. Also no more rotten floors from the tenants not knowing how to close a shower curtain.

    Hardwood floors are the most durable, (even better than tile because of the grout and cracking) but any deep scratches totally ruins the beautiful grain so I solved that by using 4x8 sheets of tongue and grooved sub floor ( the OSB, chipboard type stuff, [not plywood] and finishing it just like hardwood. I stain it and then paint a 16 inch grid/groutline to camoflage the seems, and oil base floor varnish as a topcoat. Between tenants, stain the scratches to match and apply one coat of varnish to create a brand new floor. $40.00 will do 400 sq.ft. I love it.The finished product looks like "bamboo tile". I didn't know there was such a product as "bamboo tile" until a flooring contractor complemented me on what a great job I did on the "bamboo tile". Go figure.To me it looks more like cork.

    I could go on but my two typing fingers are tired.

    P.S. My avatar is one of my duplexes I painted, "just for the fun of it".

  • Real Estate Investor · Redondo Beach · Member since 2012 · 37 posts · 18 votes
    12y

    @Christian Morency how about some pictures of what you describe so we can get a better idea of these great sounding tricks.

  • Investor · Santa Barbara, CA · Member since 2013 · 658 posts · 315 votes
    12y

    I would also like to see a picture of the treated particle board. Very interesting.

    Plywood under the drywall...you can't "harden" much more than that unless you go for the industrial look and put in steel plate, classic.

  • Real Estate Investor · Millbrook, AL · Member since 2008 · 68 posts · 34 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by Brant Richardson:
    I would also like to see a picture of the treated particle board. Very interesting.

    Plywood under the drywall...you can't "harden" much more than that unless you go for the industrial look and put in steel plate, classic.

    Hi Brant. It's not particle board. That stuff is junk.

    Here's another trick for hardened walls. Remember "Pergo" and all the other copycat flooring pruducts that are basically formica with snap together edges?

    I use that stuff on walls too. Go ahead, put your fist through it, make my day.

    I've even used it in shower stalls in some of my trailers. I treat the edges with used car oil before installing. So far, so good.

    Now I'll see about posting a picture of that OSB subfloor stuff.

    Wish me luck.

    Whoopee...I did it.

    As you can see, the high gloss varnish reflects light real good. It looks real shiny. You could eat off of a newly varnished floor like this, it's so clean. Think of it as "bling bling". It shows

    real well to prospective tenants.

    There is nothing a tenant can do to this floor that I can't fix. I once had to sand an area about 1x2ft to remove a water mark. ( I'll never use water based floor finish again ) Anyway, I just restained it, painted in the grout lines and varnished it. You can't even tell it was feathered in. That was a good test.

    The first time I tried this, it cost $1.85 sq. ft materials and labor @ $15.00 per hour. The second time, it was $3.50 sq. ft. The second guy was way slower than the first. It's still a good price for flooring that will last and last.

  • Real Estate Investor · Millbrook, AL · Member since 2008 · 68 posts · 34 votes
    12y

    Just another thing I thought about to save money in the long run is to grease all parts of any new faucet install. After I install it, I take it all apart as if it needed new washers and seats, and then use plumbers grease on all threaded and moving parts. Two years down the road, when it's time to fix a dripping faucet, it won't take more than 10 min. and you won't break or scratch it all up.

  • Wholesaler · Holiday, FL · Member since 2013 · 571 posts · 221 votes
    12y
    Next time put a strip of wood 1/2" thick across the back of the space before laying in the plywood false-floor. Then cover it with whatever you are using for the kitchen floor covering. Or a scrap of sheet vinyl flooring. That way any leak will run out onto the floor when they have to stand in it and they will call you right away. Otherwise it runs back or into a sag and by the time you discover it you have to start the repair two floors down. <g>

    stephen
    -------------



    Originally posted by George P.:
    in the house that just got new cabinets in the kitchen, i noticed that there had been a small leak in the plumbing under the kitchen sink. it had started to swell up the particle board in a few places so i came up with an idea.
    i measured and cut a 1/2" plywood and notched it for the pipes. then i slipped it into place and anything that spills and leaks will ruin the plywood first, not the actual cabinet.

    will do that to all rentals from now on.

  • Dawn AnastasiPro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2013 · 6k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    12y

    I take a scrap piece of vinyl flooring and put it under all sinks, curled up so it goes up the wall a little. Water can get down on that and it just pools up, and since the back is curved it never gets "behind" the sink cabinet causing damage. It also looks really good too.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    12y

    bumping this thread for the people that have not seen it yet..

  • Charleston, SC · Member since 2011 · 72 posts · 2 votes
    12y

    @Christian Morency You said

    "I use contact paper for all tub and shower surrounds. The stuff lasts forever. It's amazing stuff. Cheap too. :) Apply it after painting with high gloss latex."

    Can you explain this more? I've never heard of this method.

  • Insurance Agent · Oaks, PA · Member since 2012 · 34 posts · 10 votes
    12y
    Very interesting idea for flooring. What do you use to paint the grid lines on and how do you adhere the sheets to the subfloor? Construction adhesive, screws, nails? Thanks!

    @Christian Morency

  • Real Estate Investor · Millbrook, AL · Member since 2008 · 68 posts · 34 votes
    12y
    Originally posted by @Erin Weiss:
    @Christian Morency You said

    "I use contact paper for all tub and shower surrounds. The stuff lasts forever. It's amazing stuff. Cheap too. :) Apply it after painting with high gloss latex."

    Can you explain this more? I've never heard of this method.

    Hi Erin, I've found that my low end tenants don't clean their own tub surrounds so I get to. I now have a cheaper and quicker solution than Contact paper. The newer papers all use "removable" glue which basically means it doesn't stick. So I have moved on to one less step.

    I just use drywall like the rest of the bathroom and paint it with high gloss latex.

    That's it.

    Just clean and paint between tenants and it always looks brand new and squeaky clean. Always buy top of the line paints because the most expensive ingredient in paint is the part that makes it stick like glue.

    The bottom edge is a problem area which I have solved by using plastic Z-bar and taping the seam with blue masking tape before painting. Z-bar is used to keep water out of the horizontal seams when using plywood as exterior siding. Just ask the guy at Lowes to show you how it works. You'll figure it out.

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