How do you "harden" your rentals?

How do you "harden" your rentals?

Chuck B.Pro Member
Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2011 · 279 posts · 248 votes

Dear Pocketers,

How do you harden / bullet-proof your rentals?

While I've never had anyone utterly trash a rental of mine, I've seen the damage they can do first hand (typically when buying the rental and seeing what the previous occupants did to it). Here are a few of the things I do:

One of my favorites, and easiest to do, is that I "frame" all wire racks, their support rods, towel holders, toilet paper holders, etc. using backer wood that is mounted to studs. If it's very visible, we'll route the edges and paint it like trim. If it's in a closet, it just gets wall color. This way, if the kids hang off the coat racks or someone abuses the towel holders, they may yank the hardware down, but it doesn't leave holes in the wall. It's also much harder to destroy them in the first place. Note the towel holder mounting:

When first buying a property, if it's easily accessible, I'll replace copper with Pex (plastic) plumbing from the get go, even if the copper is OK. I don't have to worry about it freezing and it's not a crime target.

We cage all of our A/C units now using custom fabricated 2 inch square tube, typically mounting them into the wall so the bolts have to be released from inside. I also lock exterior A/C circuit boxes and label the units, cage and circuit box with A/C specific alarm stickers that I had made up.

I will frequently install an inexpensive alarm system (not monitored) which gives me peace of mind between tenants and acts as a selling point when showing the units.

I've doubled up on door stops (to prevent doorknobs from going into walls). While I use the standard springy ones that mount into baseboard still, they tend to be targets for kids and end up missing, so I back these up with the plastic circles that affix to the wall where the handle would hit. (These are also great for just covering a previously made hole where the door knob hit the wall) They're expensive though, so I've started buying large, bulk packages of plastic, foam-backed pads that you set furniture on, and simply using double sided tape behind these. These cost maybe 30 cents apiece where the purpose built ones cost $3 apiece.

If I have to renovate a bathroom, I no longer use the plastic/fiberglass shower inserts. I've seen people put holes into both the tubs and crack the walls of these. For just a couple hundred more I'll have an iron tub installed and we'll tile the shower. It's a lot more attractive and seems to be a lot more durable in the long run.

What tricks have you learned to "harden" your own rentals?

Best,
- Chuck

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Most Popular Reply

Investor · Statewide, MO · Member since 2011 · 813 posts · 424 votes
14y

Avoid carpet wherever possible. I have begun using allure flooring. It's attractive and allegedly very durable, a 25 year floor. It's floating and waterproof.

Yard: Make as much as possible, mower maintainable. Limit / remove trees and shrubs whenever possible.

Plumbing fixtures: Use shedule 40 drain pipes under bathroom and kitchen sinks with a wye cleanout. I have had so many leaks with the screw together pipe over the years.

Bathroom remodels: Remove any bathroom windows that reside inside a shower enclosure. They can be a massive maintenance headache. Install a fart fan to bring it up to code.

Gas lines: remove all unused fuel runs. Run electric for dryer and stove if electric not present.

Security: 4 inch screws in the latches of all exterior doors. Makes it a little tougher for them to get in and steal my copper.

Storm doors, if present: have chains installed so they can't whip wide open and trash the closers. Be clear with the tenant, they're on the hook for it if anything happens. It's best to remove them altogether.

Appliances: NEVER an icemaker. They make up 50% of appliance service calls. NO THANKS!

If having a furnace installed, pay the extra 10-25 and have a filter rack installed. Makes changing the filter much much easier.

Wish I learned these things on day 1.

See this reply in the discussion

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  • Residential Real Estate Broker · Chicago Suburbs, IL · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 594 votes
    11y

    Thanks for the info. So far we've just kept the original toilets in the rentals we acquired since we didn't know what new ones actually work. The 12 yr old 1.6 gallon ones in our own house clog more than they should.

  • Roy N.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Fredericton, New Brunswick · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Kimberly H.:

    Thanks for the info. So far we've just kept the original toilets in the rentals we acquired since we didn't know what new ones actually work. The 12 yr old 1.6 gallon ones in our own house clog more than they should.

     Kimberly,

    A good place to start when researching toilets is the MAP site.

  • Residential Real Estate Broker · Chicago Suburbs, IL · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 594 votes
    11y

    @Roy N.

     Thanks, in all my googling before I never came across that site.

  • Investor · Vancouver, WA · Member since 2013 · 3k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Sylvia B.:
    Originally posted by @Bryan N.:

    I prefer these  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Design-House-2-1-8-in-x-1-3-4-in-Satin-Nickel-Standard-Hinge-Pin-Door-Stop-202390/203447332

    The hinge pin door stops work well with solid doors. But they put a hole through the surface of one of our wood hollow core doors. So I take that into consideration now when choosing to use them.

  • Rental Property Investor · Douglas County, MO · Member since 2014 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y

    @Marcia Maynard Wow! Someone must have really flung that door hard!

  • Rental Property Investor · Douglas County, MO · Member since 2014 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y

    double post deleted

  • Residential Real Estate Broker · Chicago Suburbs, IL · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 594 votes
    11y

    @Marcia Maynard

    We put the round circle things on the back of the door where one of those hinge pin doorstops went through the door.

  • Wholesaler · Holiday, FL · Member since 2013 · 571 posts · 221 votes
    11y

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

  • Deborah BurianPro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Oklahoma City, OK · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 412 votes
    11y

    @Sylvia B., yes, yes they do... they fling doors really hard.

  • Investor · Valparaiso, IN · Member since 2011 · 103 posts · 65 votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Marcia Maynard:
    Originally posted by @Sylvia B.:
    Originally posted by @Bryan N.:

    I prefer these  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Design-House-2-1-8-in-x-1-3-4-in-Satin-Nickel-Standard-Hinge-Pin-Door-Stop-202390/203447332

    The hinge pin door stops work well with solid doors. But they put a hole through the surface of one of our wood hollow core doors. So I take that into consideration now when choosing to use them.

    Ditto. Hinge pin door stop put a hole in a hollow core door. Only this was at church, in the elementary kids room, not at one of our rentals. I'd never use one of those on a hollow core door.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

     i never knew that's the rating, so thanks for that. quick look turned up no database. wonder the best way to find that data... would it be on the box?

    some more on toilets from fine homebuilding - http://www.theplumber.com/fhb.html

  • Wholesaler · Holiday, FL · Member since 2013 · 571 posts · 221 votes
    11y
    I don't trust big-box stores for toilets and always buy them from a plumbing supply store.  They will instantly know what you are asking, and be able to look it up in the manufacture's specification catalog, when you ask them to tell you the flush-ball-diameter rating for a particular toilet.

    Some toilets have a 'flush area' description - which is the square-inch area of the passageway inside the toilet.  Which could be wide and narrow and still have the same square-inch area as a cylinder.  The test which involves passing a hard ball through the trap answers your actual question better. <g>

    Toilets are made with as small as 1 7/8" ratings and I think you used to be able to get them with a 1 3/4" rating.  These will usually flush water OK - but that isn't what clogs toilets.

    PHM
    -----------



    posted by @George P.:
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

     i never knew that's the rating, so thanks for that. quick look turned up no database. wonder the best way to find that data... would it be on the box?

    some more on toilets from fine homebuilding - http://www.theplumber.com/fhb.html

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

    I'm not sure what a "Flush Ball Diameter Rating" is. Googling the phrase has no hits at all. Cadet 3 has a 3" flush flapper valve.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:
    I don't trust big-box stores for toilets and always buy them from a plumbing supply store.  They will instantly know what you are asking, and be able to look it up in the manufacture's specification catalog, when you ask them to tell you the flush-ball-diameter rating for a particular toilet.

    Some toilets have a 'flush area' description - which is the square-inch area of the passageway inside the toilet.  Which could be wide and narrow and still have the same square-inch area as a cylinder.  The test which involves passing a hard ball through the trap answers your actual question better. <g>

    Toilets are made with as small as 1 7/8" ratings and I think you used to be able to get them with a 1 3/4" rating.  These will usually flush water OK - but that isn't what clogs toilets.ould it be on the box?

    some more on toilets from fine homebuilding - http://www.theplumber.com/fhb.html

     how much are the cadet toilets at the supply store?

  • Curtis YoderPro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Tulsa, OK · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 187 votes
    11y

    Great information. I am learning many lessons along my way and find that all this sharing is creating some significant learning curve shortcuts! Thanks!

  • Investor · Vienna, VA · Member since 2011 · 158 posts · 45 votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Marcia Maynard:
    Originally posted by @Sylvia B.:
    Originally posted by @Bryan N.:

    I prefer these  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Design-House-2-1-8-in-x-1-3-4-in-Satin-Nickel-Standard-Hinge-Pin-Door-Stop-202390/203447332

    The hinge pin door stops work well with solid doors. But they put a hole through the surface of one of our wood hollow core doors. So I take that into consideration now when choosing to use them.

    I had that same thought as I was reading this.  I had tenants move out of one of my first rentals and every door that had one of those had a hole in it!  Not a hole or mark on any wall in the house, but every freakin door had a hole from the stopper.  We got rid of them.

  • Roy N.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Fredericton, New Brunswick · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

     Stephen:

    Actually, I believe the MAP-Test has become the benchmark for solid waste removal ... it is more widely referenced these days.  Additionally, you really want a toilet with a 3" (or 4" if your plumbing will support it) trapway.

  • Investor · Arvada, CO · Member since 2013 · 7 posts · 1 vote
    11y

    I love this thread. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

    Here's one we learned the hard way. Put pad locks on crawl space access doors or else copper pipe and wiring can get away.

  • Wholesaler · Holiday, FL · Member since 2013 · 571 posts · 221 votes
    11y
    I'll call my local place and see what they say.  Maybe I am using a local-term or even perhaps an antiquated term.  The test was in regard to what diameter hard rubber ball would pass through the colon of the toilet.  Among other things it guarded against a 'pinched' passage way.

    stephen
    --------------



    Originally posted by @Johann Jells:
    Originally posted by @Stephen S.:

    The proper standard for gauging toilet performance is Flush Ball Diameter Rating.  Do not buy any toilet with less than 2" and for rentals nothing less that 2 1/4".  And also make sure that you get a jet-assist model toilet.  You can see this feature for yourselves because there is an opening low in the front of the bowl.

    stephen

    ----------------

    I'm not sure what a "Flush Ball Diameter Rating" is. Googling the phrase has no hits at all. Cadet 3 has a 3" flush flapper valve.

  • Investor · Fort Lauderdale, FL · Member since 2012 · 1k+ posts · 465 votes
    11y

    Actually there are a number of factors that goes into the performance of a toilet.

    The bowl and trapway geometry, the diameter of the trapway, the flush mechanism itself, and the surface roughness of the trapway.

    Some of the toilets that are made in Mexico or China, reach your hand into the bottom of the bowl hole and feel the inside pathway.  Some of those areas you do not see may not be glazed.  Made sure they are.

    There are also other factors that are important when selecting a toilet.  One is the water level.  Some toilets have a very low level, which translate into smaller surface area at the bottom, which translate into "streak marks".

    There are certain brands that are infamous for great gravity flushes, but they create this incredible splash when flushed.  The splash goes outside of the toilet onto the floor onto the top and bottom of the seat.

    Happy toilet hunting.

    Personally I use Toto Drake for my rentals.

  • Investor · Vancouver, WA · Member since 2013 · 3k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Bob Mesenbrink:

    I love this thread. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

    Here's one we learned the hard way. Put pad locks on crawl space access doors or else copper pipe and wiring can get away.

    Also the locks on attic doors and crawl spaces will keep curious children from playing in those off limit areas, as well as adults who don't have a need to be in there.

  • Rental Property Investor · Raleigh, NC · Member since 2012 · 56 posts · 23 votes
    11y

    I bought a duplex where the interior walls downstairs had a coarse stucco finish, and it was a great way to mask scuffs and marks on the paint.

    What a great thread.  Thanks for all of these tips.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Chuck B.:

    @GeorgeP - Is the timer so that the fan has a longer life?

    Best,
    - Chuck

     just saw this question.... no, the timer is there as a "cool/nice/practical/preventable measure" feature. you can shower and push the timer for 60 mins. then you can go to bed and the fan works for 60 mins, then shuts off. all moisture will be gone since it's a PANASONIC fan!!!

    if they dont have a timer, the fan will be shut off when the person goes to bed and the moisture will ruin the paint/trim, etc, etc.

  • Roy N.Pro Member
    Rental Property Investor · Fredericton, New Brunswick · Member since 2013 · 7k+ posts · 4k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @George P.:
    Originally posted by @Chuck B.:

    @GeorgeP - Is the timer so that the fan has a longer life?

    Best,
    - Chuck

     just saw this question.... no, the timer is there as a "cool/nice/practical/preventable measure" feature. you can shower and push the timer for 60 mins. then you can go to bed and the fan works for 60 mins, then shuts off. all moisture will be gone since it's a PANASONIC fan!!!

    if they dont have a timer, the fan will be shut off when the person goes to bed and the moisture will ruin the paint/trim, etc, etc.

    George,

    We use a switch with a built-in timer (normally preset to 30 minutes) in parallel with a humidistat on our fans.   This way the fan runs for 30-minutes or until the humidity falls below the threshold.

  • Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    11y
    Originally posted by @Roy N.:
    Originally posted by @George P.:
    Originally posted by @Chuck B.:

    @GeorgeP - Is the timer so that the fan has a longer life?

    Best,
    - Chuck

     just saw this question.... no, the timer is there as a "cool/nice/practical/preventable measure" feature. you can shower and push the timer for 60 mins. then you can go to bed and the fan works for 60 mins, then shuts off. all moisture will be gone since it's a PANASONIC fan!!!

    if they dont have a timer, the fan will be shut off when the person goes to bed and the moisture will ruin the paint/trim, etc, etc.

    George,

    We use a switch with a built-in timer (normally preset to 30 minutes) in parallel with a humidistat on our fans.   This way the fan runs for 30-minutes or until the humidity falls below the threshold.

     this is what we use..

    which one do you use? a humidistat is always something i wanted to do. can you explain the setup in more details? pic would be nice too..

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