Another freebie.
If your county will allow Storage containers. Set them up at the site as Camping rental units. Check out European Hostel set ups. Go basic, no electricity, no water, now sewer. Put in a community shower and bathroom. No property taxes on Storage units, since not tied to the ground. Paint each one with funny pictures or posts. Sunflower, bear, Cyclone, Hawkeye, etc. Not big, just something on the door for them to say hey, I stayed in the Smoky the bear unit.
Below is some more detailed info are these subjects:
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Primary question to check on with your local zoning group, are they allowed. Same goes for individual collapsible storage units. The following discussion is just on Cargo Containers.
Only if you have cheap/extra land and can do rock roads (if you have to have concrete/asphalt roads, you need a higher return unit).
If your in the country and your zoning allows it, go with 20 foot Cargo containers as a good part of your mix. Put some gravel down at the front and back of the unit to get it off the ground. If two rows, put them back to back. Buy in groups of two. They can be delivered two at a time on a tilt bed truck trailer. Delivery cost will be the same for 1 versus 2, about $120 within 30 miles. Tell them ahead of time how you want them to face when they are unloaded. They will not get placed perfectly so plan to unload then 20 to 30 feet away and have a crane truck set them in place. I would recommend buying about 20 at a time, to make it worth everyone's time.
Depending on how close you are to shipping areas, your container delivered may run $2,100. Rent for $50/month.
A 10 x 15 or 20 traditional outside access unit will run $3,100 installed. 10 x 20 same market rents for $65/month.
Containers are only good for clients who can open/close them. Appreciate their airtightness.
They will rent for less. Example: 8 x 20 ft container $50; 10 x 15 traditional $55; 10 x 20 traditional $65 in the countryside.
No property taxes since they are not attached to the ground.
You can buy as you need them.
Have to many, just sale them.
Talk with your tax person. Should be able to write them off in year one.
Recommend you use silver trailer roof paint. This lowers the inside temperature significantly. Also paint the Visual exterior sides a consistent light color to reflect the sun. Sand down roof and side rust spots first, then prime. We have 40 of them and they look great painted one color. Everyone wants to buy one.
When you buy, pick no leaks in roof or floor. Side dents are okay. Easy to open doors. Don't buy single trip containers they cost to much. Also don't plan to fix them up. If you replace one of the plywood floor panels with original material it will be about $800 per 4 x 8 sheet. Door hinges and bars will be costly to replace.
For Property insurance these are treated as Personal Property and not as buildings. Make sure you have enough coverage under Personal Property, along with your lawn mower, office equipment, etc.
Recap:
- Cheaper than traditional
- rents less $50 vs $65 but more profit
- no property tax, since not attached to the ground
- Can add and sell as needed.
- Insure as Personal property and not Property.
- Bank may not want to loan against, since moveable.
- Harder to open, so not good for some clients, others like them because the are more secure and for pest control.
Separate topic. The units below were 2 foot under water, over the roofs for a month. One year ago. Floors, metal and door hinges are fine. Very durable product. Not a product for every location, but works well where possible. Would go good with a Boat/RV/Vehicle storage location for onsite storage.
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Parking info:
Surface, Canopy, Enclosed.
Just talking Surface.
Have run the numbers about 10 times on Enclosed, but I would have to charge $225 to $350 per month and don't have that market here. Have only seen one location on the interstate near Oklahoma City that had that market ($150,000 to $500,000 RV's) and they were full. They have a lot of $1mm homes and lakes nearby. You have to do Concierge services for that market. Battery charger, turn fridge on before trips, Dump station, Concierge parking service, Tire/Oil/etc check, Big drive ways, electric in each unit, etc.
Canopy, I have seen in Texas. Cant say much, haven't researched it.
I have been in two other models. Old welding shop with 40 foot roofs. Spots are "crammed in". They park and unpark for you.
Another, is winter only. You go "in" the fall and everyone comes "out" the same time in the spring. They also have a lot of outside spaces. Both of these models were full.
Attached (guess you can't upload Excel files) is an Inventory list of an exact 2 acre parking lot we have. Also the row configuration. See cut and past below.
Might not apply if your on concrete, which would be great, but I'll throw these out anyway.
Its on rock. Use 1 1/2 inch with "Fines". Cost about $20,000 for rock delivered.
Put Geogrid underneath, so no potholes after 4 years. Otherwise, you need to put a base of 3 inch rock first, then the 1 1/2 with fines. Be careful if you blade snow.
Payback is about 12 years.
Not the best use of the land, but didn't need it at the time for storage.
Put at 60 degree angle, otherwise you get a lot less spaces, since your driveways have to be wider. Example: If you do 90 degrees parking on a 50 foot space, you might need a 70 foot driveway. Also 60 degrees makes it easy for the driver. Also put the 60 degrees turn on the driver side window so they can see the turn.
Put a Wire and posts down the middle of the shared back to back parking so vehicles stay on their side. Used other posts, stakes, number signs (reflective) to define each space.
Mix. Went with even surface area for 20/30/40 foot spaces. Did not do any 50's for large RV's. Where we are at, most RV's are in the $10,000 to $70,000 range. Actually worked out pretty good. The 20's have a few vacancies.
Price $20/$30/$40. This is in a 10,000 population community with about 4 no wake lakes to the East within 60 miles. Prices could be higher, but= No city restrictions on vehicles, which would increase your market. Plus we are in the country, where you can find a friend to park.
Run light and security camera poles first.
Definitely put a "License Plate" specific camera at a narrow point and other cameras and lights at that bottleneck. Our spot is fenced off from the Storage location, with one access point, no gate there. Recommend your NVR has a timeline with Red markers for motion on your cameras.
Layout and capacity really depends on the lot shape. The same two acres, could probably get about 30% more if it was a rectangle versus a square, due to less turnarounds.
Attachment:
This is a relaxed layout, I did not try to cram the spaces in.
| Rows and Road Configuration | | | | | | | | |
| A | Road | B | C | Road | D | E | Road | F |
| | | | | | | | |
| This layout is on a 2 acre square. | | | | | | | | |
| Roads are all the same width. | | | | | | | | |
| All rows are set at 45 degree angles | | | | | | | | |
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CONSIDERATIONS FOR RV OR VEHICLE STORAGE
A. Pull through- The front, pull as far forward as possible, gives the person next to you an easier angle to turn into, from behind you. Align your front with the fronts of all other vehicles. Be courteous and leave enough room on the Driver side, so that RV can open their doors.
B. Back to back parking- our locations are set up at 60 degree parking. Also, they are setup for the driver to back in on their side, so they can use the lot next to them for alignment. This way you only have one blind side on the right side backing in. Otherwise you have two blind sides.
We have 20/30/40 foot parking at our location at 26763 Highway 34, Glenwood, IA. Each size has a different width due to how hard it is to park a longer unit at the very front angle of their turn in. 20’s- 10 wide; 30’s- 12 wide; 40’s- 15 wide. Although you could park an RV in any of these sizes, it is easier with a wider width to make the “front” turn. Or ask for an end parking spot, so you are doing a 90 degree parking, but have the whole drive way to back in with, without a turn.
C. Canopy- same issues as others, depending on if 60 degree or 90 degree parking.
D. Enclosed- Really a matter of width and depth. Keep in mind all measurements for storage are relative. For example: A 10 wide x 20 deep x 8 tall unit, with studs, roll up door and door jambs; is really 9 wide x 19 ft 6 inch deep x 7 ½ foot tall. Also if you have a 20 ft boat or Camper, its really 22/23/24 ft depending on Propeller, bumper or front hitch.
E. Surface- Rock or hard surface (concrete/asphalt); If on rock/asphalt put your tongue leg or stabilizer pads on wider pads to spread the weight out. These pads are needed on Asphalt since in hot weather they will sink into the asphalt.
F. Pest control- we put mouse bait out along the fence lines and under the units, mow excess weeds and grass. You should put both rodent and bug control in your unit. Dispose of all food sources, for long term storage. If you want to be really diligent with pest control, don’t park next to overhead lights. They attract bugs at night and then mice underneath. Put scented drier sheets in all compartments and rooms. Open all cabinets and doors.
G. Stabilizers- if doing long term storage put you stabilizers down. Most parking is in an open area and the units can rock and move with the wind. This will also help with taking pressure off your tires so they last longer.
H. Security- Put a lock on the hitch. Although you are in a secure location, RV’s and trailers are the easiest storage to break into or take without notice. Recommend you put in motion sensors or GPS tracking security. Check your vehicle at least twice a month. Most Security systems only maintain footage for 2 weeks due to camera memory capacity.
I. Propane Fuel Tanks- disconnect and store if leaving for long term storage.
J. Electronic Lifts- disconnect the battery if leaving for long term storage.
K. Insurance- most storage unit insurance policies do not cover vehicles. Keep your insurance, just have them adjust your automobile to fewer miles or just comprehensive coverage. Wind, Flood, tornado, Hail, or third party damage or theft can still occur. Traditional insurance coverage, RV’s normally stay a flat rate throughout the year, thus you will still need to maintain full coverage. Or, if you seek out a specific RV or rec vehicle insurance company, you can move in and out of winterization rates.
L. Pricing- use a 30 foot vehicle as an example:
-In the country about a $1 per foot on rock.
-With Paved access and parking spot, this might run $60 to $90
- Enclosed parking this will cost about $120 to $170 for a 30 foot.
- Enclosed parking for a 50 foot, might cost $225 to $350.
The price extremes are the cost of the concrete/asphalt road and the storage bay. Also the longer the unit the price goes up significantly because it takes more driveway width to park and the type of door changes in both size and type (remote operated). A 50 ft RV will require about a 70 foot wide driveway to back in.
We are only addressing the long term Parking portion of storage. Other items are specific to each vehicle such as water clean out, Tire/window shades, etc.
Quick non Parking list:
Wheel/tire covers; Vehicle cover.
Remove and store your tires.
Store with a full fuel tank to prevent condensation
Add fuel stabilizers
Place RV completely off the ground to prevent flat spots on your tires, if left for a long time.
Cover your HVAC, skylights, vents and windows to prevent exposure to sun and breakdown.
Boats leave your plug out, whether covered or not.