Journeyman Plumber here, any questions ask away!
Investor · Ogden, UT · Member since 2016 · 45 posts · 12 votes
Unfortunately gang ,there are "cocky and arrogant" individuals in any ,practice,trade,endeavor or profession.Plumbers with a disagreeble arrogant and surly nature do not last long where I come from.It is highly competitive here in So Cal.You gotta be a "Superstar".
Having said that,,,there is also a Code of Honor amongst tradesmen in any town or city.We all know who the good guys and the bad guys are.The bad guys are "disowned" and get put on the blacklist,,,they do not get referals or reccomdations from reputable contractors.We also watch them very carefully and inform our friends at the supply house,,,,do not give these guys credit,do not recomend them,,,they are trouble.We know "The Good,The Bad and the Ugly".But get this,,,good guys tend to hang together and refer each other.They also tend to join credible contractors associations like the PHCC Plumbing Heating and Cooling Contractors Association.
Heres a tip ;if you are fortunate enough to identify and hire a good licensed plumber,he will usually know and be able to recommend a good electrician,HVAC man,carpenter,tile setter,painter,concrete and masonry contractor,locksmith,roofer,landscaper,,,you get the picture,,,,
Oh Yeah about that business of "plumbers savings lives".Well,,,
That is a true statement,,,,that fact is,,,
"Plumbers have saved more lives than Doctors,,,,"
An old American Standard slogan was "Plumbers Protect the Health of the Nation",,Well,,,
Its kinda corny guys but it's TRUE,,,,
Why ? By inventing and installing safe hygenic waste water ,drainage systems,sewage treatment systems ,instant hot water and potable filtered water systems thru out the nation.
Hey ,all you folks who are fortunate enough to travel the world and take vacations to exotic places like Thailand ,Russia and Brazil,,,,,aint it great to finally get home and open up the kitchen sink tap and have a nice clear glass of water without having to worry about a case of the runs for the next 3 or 4 days? If ya been there u know what Im talking about,,,,
"I love this country,,,!!!"
My Best Regards Gang and Happy New Year
Dave Doyle
Los Angeles
@Austin James, you might want to jump in here: https://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/24/topics/272025-calling-all-plumbers---whats-bomb-proof-and-leak-proof
The property I'm currently working on has a sink that backs up in to the bathtub. However when I flush the toilet located between the two, water comes out of the base of the neighboring bathroom toilet. Where is the problem?
I have a plumber coming on Tuesday btw.
What fixture colors will be popular next? I have brushed nickel now, but don't want to look dated in future..
I have found brushed nickel with stay for a long time. Just your basic chrome will be somewhat timeless as we'll. As long as you use a modern fixture style
Is it common for duplexes to have a joined/shared plumbing system? If so how does it effect costs compared to an SFR?
Yea its common especially in my area. It can be more expensive. I suggest you either bite the bullet on the cost or charge a flat "utility charge" to help cover the expense
The property I'm currently working on has a sink that backs up in to the bathtub. However when I flush the toilet located between the two, water comes out of the base of the neighboring bathroom toilet. Where is the problem?
I have a plumber coming on Tuesday btw.
Sounds like you have a main stack blockage. A rotor rooter style plumber will make short work of it for a $299-$599 cost. It will require pulling up both toilets most likely
Hey Austin. On a complete bathroom remodel... is there any reason I should not use Osb behind the fiberglass shower stall? ? I think plywood would be next then drywall,no?
Thanks for offering your plumbing expertise @Austin James! I don't have a question at this time, but wanted to say 'we appreciate you'! Many won't bother. Cheers!
Hey Austin. On a complete bathroom remodel... is there any reason I should not use Osb behind the fiberglass shower stall? ? I think plywood would be next then drywall,no?
I may be not understanding the question, so forgive me if this doesn't answer it. There should be no board behind the shower walls the fiberglass tub/shower should butt directly against the studs and be anchored to the studs on top and bottom making sure it's leveled. And then a bathroom "wet" drywall put on around the stall. Is that what your meaning by behind?
Thanks for offering your plumbing expertise @Austin James! I don't have a question at this time, but wanted to say 'we appreciate you'! Many won't bother. Cheers!
Thanks Steve plumbing can be a very frustrating thing ha any help I can give.
@Austin James I have my main water supply line coming into the basement. The meter is located in the basement as well. Between the wall and the meter is the main valve. It is either a gate valve or stop valve. Needless to say its leaking(drip every 3rd second). I can turn the valve but it does not actually stop the water at all. The only way I can shut my buildings water off is when the supply line splits and I turn off all 3 valves on the splits. These are also gate or stop valves(not sure how to tell when installed).
I would like to put ball valves in place of the 3 valves plus the primary inlet. Is the only way to do this to have the city shut off their water so I can make the repair?
Austin, what do you think of the pex manifold systems? To me they seem like an awesome concept. But I was talking to an old school plumber and he was saying he wasn't a big fan of them. He said they lack pressure. I am still a bit out from breaking ground but plan on building eight duplexes and I plan on holding them for as long as I can. So I want them to be as low maintenance as possible. Thanks.
Correct that would be the only way, here in Utah. Residents and acess to the shut off at the street. All it takes is a phone call to obtain "permission" to shut it off. You'd be best to call the city and make sure your city isn't the same way. If it is it's a very simple quick fix. I'm assuming if all copper piping? If your doing the replacement yourself it's very easy. A plumber will charge anywhere from $300-$700(here in Utah) while the parts you'll need to do it is roughly $70-$100. Hope that helps a little bit.
Austin, what do you think of the pex manifold systems? To me they seem like an awesome concept. But I was talking to an old school plumber and he was saying he wasn't a big fan of them. He said they lack pressure. I am still a bit out from breaking ground but plan on building eight duplexes and I plan on holding them for as long as I can. So I want them to be as low maintenance as possible. Thanks.
Now your speaking my language! I love them, they are a plumbers best friend. Instead of shutting down a whole complex to repair something. You can shut down the fixture that needs repairing. That being said, you can loose some pressure but not enough to weigh that as a con. If the pressure is not what you desire you can always install a booster. But in the 100's of systems I've installed I've never had a pressure complaint. And Pex is just a beautiful thing super easy to repair and will last a long time. If not forever!
@Austin James Thanks. I will check with the city on this one. Its not copper on the inlet to the property, galvanized. It transitions to copper and the splits are all copper from that point until the pipe gets to the sinks or shower. I would be doing the work myself and only call for help if I got into trouble.
My question is "why is there so much water???" Sometimes it feels like water is coming from everywhere into everything. You will be a good resource on BP.
Do you have anyone that comes up to Logan by chance?
@James Lindsey You may want to look into sub metering your multi family. I found it to be way more cost effective than I thought it would be. Break even was 1-2 years. IT is especially less expensive if your water utility uses the electronic (most of them use rfid tags) meter scanners, because that means it's less likely you will need to dig up and replace or add new pipe. Talk to a good plumber about it but make sure he's done them before and is going to use a permit.
1. Do you trust pex for gas? I have always just used black iron pipe. Don't want to be stuck in the past though.
2. What is smallest water meter I can use for 3bed/ 2.5 bath? 0.75" or should I pay more for a 1.0"? ($1,513 more just in permit fees for the jump up per unit).
3. So do you run your showers on 1/2" pex? Or should I run showers with with the next size up? And everything else 1/2".
4. Would you... Your opinion spend more money for 4" ABS waste pipe? Or stick with 3"? Each pipe would service 3 toilets. Running to a 6" line that runs off property to city sewer 8".
Sorry was having to much fun and got carried away with the questions. Still in planning phase but I'm building these to last a generation or two with little maintenance. Appreciate your previous response.
I may be not understanding the question, so forgive me if this doesn't answer it. There should be no board behind the shower walls the fiberglass tub/shower should butt directly against the studs and be anchored to the studs on top and bottom making sure it's leveled. And then a bathroom "wet" drywall put on around the stall. Is that what your meaning by behind?
Hey Austin....that's exactly what I needed to know....This thread is awesome. Thanks for taking the time out to provide this service.
My question is "why is there so much water???" Sometimes it feels like water is coming from everywhere into everything. You will be a good resource on BP.
Do you have anyone that comes up to Logan by chance?
Yes it does, plumbing can be a very frustrating thing. The company I'm partnered with services Logan all the time. We were the plumbing complete for all the Kartchner Homes. Pm and I can get you in contact with the right guy. Very fair prices sometimes to fair we argue that he should charge more lol
1. Do you trust pex for gas? I have always just used black iron pipe. Don't want to be stuck in the past though.
2. What is smallest water meter I can use for 3bed/ 2.5 bath? 0.75" or should I pay more for a 1.0"? ($1,513 more just in permit fees for the jump up per unit).
3. So do you run your showers on 1/2" pex? Or should I run showers with with the next size up? And everything else 1/2".
4. Would you... Your opinion spend more money for 4" ABS waste pipe? Or stick with 3"? Each pipe would service 3 toilets. Running to a 6" line that runs off property to city sewer 8".
Sorry was having to much fun and got carried away with the questions. Still in planning phase but I'm building these to last a generation or two with little maintenance. Appreciate your previous response.
1- I trust pex/flex gas lines to certain extent. In the water heater/furnace room, and places I can get access to it. I would never trust it kn the walls or floor joist
2-we only run 1" here in Utah. I'd suggest 1" so you don't run into pressure issues. But you can always buy a pressure booster.
3-we run 3/4" main lines and branch everyone 1/2" including the showers and tubs. UNLESS you are putting body Jett's in your shower. The 3/4" to it
4-3" in more than sufficient for 3+toilets anything over that is just over kill and a waste of money. We run 7-8 bath houses off 3"
Any help I can offer let me know.
@Austin James Thanks for doing this!
I have a 2/1 single story on crawlspace that I'm currently renovating. There is a single wall that has kitchen and bathroom on opposite sides and I'm doing a complete demo on the bathroom. Bottom line is I can see almost every inch of plumbing in the house right now.
The house was built in 1962 but it looks like someone has been here before me and has spliced in pieces of PVC into the cast iron drain pipe. The runs to the fixtures are also a combination of copper and some kind of plastic (not sure about this one). In total, the entire house is a toilet, bathtub, vanity, and kitchen sink on a single wall that drops down to a crawlspace. Currently the crawlspace is unconditioned but I'm going to encapsulate it.
I'm thinking I should bite the bullet and just replace almost every bit of plumbing in the house right now rather than close up the wall and wait for something to break, especially since I'm putting nice tile in the bathroom.
So here goes:
1. Should all plumbing be replaced at this stage or should I just fix it when it goes wrong?
2. Is it a better idea to just replace what will be sealed up in wall and leave the crawlspace area as it is until something breaks?
3. I had polybutyl in one house, which of course ruptured. For that reason I've been a copper loyalist. Do you promise me that PEX will never ever rupture? jk
4. Is PEX your #1 choice for a full replacement or do you actually prefer something else like CPVC or copper?
5. How much time would something like this take a reasonably skilled plumber?
6. What would be a spitball guesstimate on costs? The entire wall is only about 7 feet long.
7. I have a decent amount of mechanical aptitude. I've soldered copper and glued pvc drain lines together before. Is this something I could reasonably do on my own? I've never used PEX.
Thanks! Sorry to dump so much on you at once.
@Austin James Thanks for doing this!
I have a 2/1 single story on crawlspace that I'm currently renovating. There is a single wall that has kitchen and bathroom on opposite sides and I'm doing a complete demo on the bathroom. Bottom line is I can see almost every inch of plumbing in the house right now.
The house was built in 1962 but it looks like someone has been here before me and has spliced in pieces of PVC into the cast iron drain pipe. The runs to the fixtures are also a combination of copper and some kind of plastic (not sure about this one). In total, the entire house is a toilet, bathtub, vanity, and kitchen sink on a single wall that drops down to a crawlspace. Currently the crawlspace is unconditioned but I'm going to encapsulate it.
I'm thinking I should bite the bullet and just replace almost every bit of plumbing in the house right now rather than close up the wall and wait for something to break, especially since I'm putting nice tile in the bathroom.
So here goes:
1. Should all plumbing be replaced at this stage or should I just fix it when it goes wrong?
2. Is it a better idea to just replace what will be sealed up in wall and leave the crawlspace area as it is until something breaks?
3. I had polybutyl in one house, which of course ruptured. For that reason I've been a copper loyalist. Do you promise me that PEX will never ever rupture? jk
4. Is PEX your #1 choice for a full replacement or do you actually prefer something else like CPVC or copper?
5. How much time would something like this take a reasonably skilled plumber?
6. What would be a spitball guesstimate on costs? The entire wall is only about 7 feet long.
7. I have a decent amount of mechanical aptitude. I've soldered copper and glued pvc drain lines together before. Is this something I could reasonably do on my own? I've never used PEX.
Thanks! Sorry to dump so much on you at once.
First off, I would 100% bite the bullet right now. Other than fire water can ruin a house faster that you can stop it. Now to address your concerns
1-fix it at this stage. The wall are open this could be a very easy project
2-I would replace it all right now. You can just replace every from the drain down. There is no need to replace the vents going through the roof unless you want to.
3-I have had PEX rupture before, but it was because a framer put a nail almost All the way through it. So when you turned the water into it the pressure finished the job. The PEX pressure threshold far exceeds what you will be putting on it.
4-PEX is my number one choice! For many reasons. Cost is a huge one PEX also doesn't corrode. Copper 100% will go bad. Another big one for investors is you can reuse fittings, saving cost there as well.
5-given that everything is opened up. A reasonable plumber would and should finish that project in 1-2 days
6-most plumbers charge $500-$800 per fixture. So you have 4 fixtures 4 X $800 = $3200. Now that would be on the very very high side. This project without looking at it. Sounds like a project I could finish in a day easy my bid would come in at $2,000-$2500 pending how much demo I would have to do.
7-With very little knowledge and Google you could tackle this no problem. PEX is as easy and it gets, rent a crimper set from lowes or Home Depot. But the piping and fittings and some straps and you will be just fine. As plumbers say the only thing plumber needs to know "Crap runs down hill, and pay days on Friday"
Hope that helps some!