New Steam Boiler - Automatic Feed Issue

New Steam Boiler - Automatic Feed Issue

Lowell, MA · Member since 2014 · 335 posts · 52 votes

Hi 

So I had a contractor removed and installed a new steam boiler. 

He is supposed to come back and do a skimming on the system after 2 weeks, but he never came back.

My urgent question:

- The automatic feeder that he installed along with the boiler keep (re-feeding) even after it reached max level

Remaining Concern:

- The thermostat never reached what was set. The room temperature is always below the thermostat temp by 2 degree. I showed it to the contractor, but there was nothing he could do. (our old heat, the room temp reached the thermostat)

- The heat/room seems to take so long to achieve or reach the thermostat. (old system, set to 72 degree, and it took like 10-15 minutes to reach it). The new system takes forever (1-2 hour), is it normal? Is the system too small for the house or just an efficiency design for the new system?

What is your thought?

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  • Flipper · Bridgeport, CT · Member since 2017 · 21 posts · 9 votes
    9y

    I have and HVAC license and without being there it sounds like it is taking too long to heat because the feeder is letting too much water into the boiler and it is taking too long to make steam. The feeder should be wired into the low water cut off mounted near the sight glass usually. Once the lwc is satisfied it should let the feeder know to stop feeding. Check out the Btus on the boiler and look it up online with the square footage of the house to see if it is big enough. It sounds like a wiring problem with your installation.

  • Oak Ridge, NJ · Member since 2016 · 103 posts · 95 votes
    9y
    You mentioned that your contractor was supposed to return to skim the system but never did. That is probably where your problem lies. When steam boilers are replaced, contaminants very often are washed down into the new boiler after it begins to operate. This could include oil that was used when cutting and threading the new piping as well as dirt and rust from inside the old piping. These contaminants form a film over the surface of the water in the boiler. When the water is heated it is supposed to turn to steam and travel up through the piping. When there is a film on the surface of the water, steam is prevented from forming and pressure begins to build below the water surface. This pressure actually starts to push the water in the boiler down and out the return piping instead of allowing steam up through the supplies. This can usually be witnessed in the sight glass by watching the water level bouncing drastically from the bottom to the top of the glass. Every time the water is pushed low enough to reach the bottom of the glass, the auto feeder will think the boiler is low on water and begin filling. This will be an ongoing cycle until the boiler and sometimes the entire piping system overfills causing a minor flood. The fix for this condition is to "skim" the boiler. This is done by installing an open pipe with a valve in the side of the boiler at the top of the water level. When the boiler is started and pressure begins building, the valve is opened, "skimming" the contaminants off the surface of the water. There is another method, which I normally use instead of the skimming method. I add a chemical designed for cleaning steam boilers to the water before starting the system. This chemical absorbs the contaminants and sinks to the bottom of the boiler. After it has had time to work, the drain is opened and the water, chemical and contaminants are flushed out. Get your contractor to return and either skim the system or treat the water. All of the problems you are experiencing will most likely be solved by this process.
  • Enfield, CT · Member since 2017 · 73 posts · 26 votes
    9y
    Another hvac contractor from ct here. Get your contractor back over to skim the boiler. It's part of the start up procedure. And as for the advice my fellow hvac brother from ct. never go off of square footage for sizing any heating or cooling system. A proper heat calculation should be done. But for steam systems you need to know your square feet of radiation(how big your radiators are) plus do a little multiplication and you will get your EDR and that is the true number you need to know when sizing a steam boiler. If your contractor changed the size of the boiler and didn't skim it I can totally see why the heat isn't good enough. He didn't do a professional job.
  • Lowell, MA · Member since 2014 · 335 posts · 52 votes
    9y

    Hi

    @John Knight, @Tom W., and @Jeffrey VanGilder I am sorry for the delay response. Thank you for the input. 

    I want to wait until the contractor got here before responding. 

    Yes, after he went through the skimming process, it appears that the gauge glass remains stable when the heat is on. I checked the low water cut off, and it seems to work OK now. I drained the water, and after the water went below a certain level, the re-feed kicks in. 

    Initially before the skimming, water keeps coming into the gauge glass and bouncing around like crazy. 

    Does anyone have a formulas to calculate how big of a system I need?

    My house is 1520 sq ft ish. I have 5 active radiator steamers. I think they range from about 5-10 columns. 

    My current replacement system is a Slant Fin, Galaxy (Gas Fired Steam Boiler) GXHA-100 *.

    CSA Input BTU/HR = 100,000

    DOE Capacity BTU/HR = 81,000

    Net Ahri Steam sq ft = 254

    Net Ahri Steam BTU/HR = 61,000

    When we are talking input and calculation, which one of the above numbers is important?

    FYI: To be honest I had no idea how/why the contractor pick this system with this input ... etc

    Thank you 

  • Oak Ridge, NJ · Member since 2016 · 103 posts · 95 votes
    9y

    @Chan K. 

    When it comes to sizing replacement steam boilers, the Net Steam Sq Ft is the important number. This relates directly to the size and quantity of the radiators. Each radiator has a specific free internal area to hold the steam. There are charts that show various types and styles of radiators that give the calculated area per radiator section. This number is multiplied by the number of sections to give the area per radiator then multiplied by the number of radiators for the total sq footage of steam required. The replacement boiler must be sized so that it's net steam square footage output is at least as large as the calculated number. If the boiler's output is too low it will run out of water before the radiation system is completely filled with steam. This will cause the autofeeder to kick on and add additional water. When the steam in the system condenses back to water and makes its way back to the boiler it will flood the boiler.

    Unfortunately, I don't know what your radiators look like so I can't really help you on the sizing at this point. If your contractor didn't take a walk through the house and inspect each of the radiators then he probably did not size the replacement boiler that way. Very often contractors will size the replacement boiler based on the size of the old one. This will usually not cause any operational problems but sometimes results in the new boiler being larger than it needs to be. Back in the day when these old boilers were installed, energy efficiency was not a prime concern so the thinking was that bigger is better.  

    From your description it sounds as though the skimming procedure has solved your problem. With a 1500 sq ft house, which I assume is older with less than ideal insulation, a boiler with a net 61,000 BTU steam output is probably just about right. If the water level in the glass remains fairly stable during operation and does not continually drop low enough to activate the autofeeder when firing then I think its safe to say you will be ok.

  • Enfield, CT · Member since 2017 · 73 posts · 26 votes
    9y

    @Tom W. look online for the burnham heating helper. You can find the info in there. Look for the steam radiator edr 

  • Enfield, CT · Member since 2017 · 73 posts · 26 votes
    9y

    sorry @Tom W. I meant @Chan K.

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