Suggestions for wood flooring that will butt up to existing tile

Suggestions for wood flooring that will butt up to existing tile

Investor · McKinney, TX · Member since 2009 · 405 posts · 160 votes

Not really a DIY question, but this seemed to be the most appropriate place to post the question.  This is for our personal residence.  House we bought has a lot of carpet which we want to replace with wood.   The wood will butt up to existing tile that is in kitchen / dining area.   

We're looking at quality engineered Oak mainly since solid wood would likely be an issue due to the height difference between the existing tile and a solid hardwood.

We considered some of the wood look tile, but prefer the warm look and feel of wood.

The engineered wood seems pricey as it's right up there, if not more expensive, than solid Oak.

As this will be a significant expense, we want to make sure we make the best decision.

Installation will be glue down, on ground floor, over concrete.  We have a contractor we trust that has done all our flooring in the past, for both investment properties and personal residences.   

Our concern is which flooring is best in this situation and are the costs we are seeing reasonable (quoted price for the flooring alone is $6.75 sqr ft  from local supplier).

One other thing to consider is we have a large dog.

Appreciate any comments or suggestions.

Kevin

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  • Justin BrownBusiness Member
    Real Estate Agent · Allentown, PA · Member since 2017 · 343 posts · 156 votes
    8y

    Hey @Kevin C. fun question! A few things to think about are just making sure you have a clean transition strip. I had my wood guy make me a custom oak step down piece from my kitchen to my dining room that matches the dining room flooring.  I would imagine that to look fine with any material you pick as long as you can get them to match the wood stain color. The engineered product is much better for handling abuse aka your dog. Just make sure its actual wood veneer. 

    But lastly I would say just make sure that whatever you pick is something that you just love, particularly if it's your primary residence that you plan on living in for a while. My flooring store does $8/sf all in for new oak so the price you were quoted sounds good to me depending on how much they charge for labor.

    Good luck!  

  • Rental Property Investor · Jersey City, NJ · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 876 votes
    8y

    Maybe I'm paranoid, but glue down flooring of any kind spooks me. No going back if there's a problem or major damage, unlike floating flooring. I believe there are real veneer "click" floating products out there.

  • Investor · McKinney, TX · Member since 2009 · 405 posts · 160 votes
    8y

    Not sure of the long term durability of click-lock flooring, nor have I seen higher quality click-lock engineered wood (it may be out there, but I've not seen it).   I've seen plenty click-lock engineered wood, but not of the quality we are looking for.

    Regarding repairs on glue-down, I would think it would be similar to how you would replace damaged tile, cut the damaged section out and install the replacement piece(s) using the same method they were originally installed with, thinset for tile, or nail down / adhesive for wood.  Have replaced damaged tiles and it was never an issue as long as I had matching tile for the area to be repaired. 

    With click-lock flooring, if a piece is damaged and needs replaced, you would have to remove all the flooring up to the damage section, working from the perimeter inward, yes?  Replacing a damaged perimeter piece would be easy enough, but the further from the perimeter you get the more work it would be to replace a piece.   

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