My Kitchen.. Need Cheap Ideas!

Rehabbing & House Flipping
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My Kitchen.. Need Cheap Ideas!

Emily Sulliban
Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes

My kitchen is ugly, dark, and outdated. So is the rest of my house sort of.. with the exception of the dark part. The kitchen is the worst though... wood paneling, ugly colored door and window frame paint, some 70s-style laminate sheet type of floor that's peeling at the edges, etc. This is why I'm looking for inexpensive ideas. It's not worth using high-end products in my kitchen while the rest of my house is lame. Plus, I'm a cashier;)
My mom is taking a 4-day vacation at a local beach with some friends, something she hasn't done in.. I don't remember her ever doing that actually. She works hard to pay the bills, and I want to surprise her when she gets home.

Here are my questions and areas in which I hope for some sort of advice or suggestions:
Wood Paneling-
I want to paint the wood paneling a fairly light color. Do I need a primer first? Does it need to be water-proof for around the sink? What type of finish do you suggest? What type of product should I use to clean the paneling before I paint them?
Windows- The paint on them is old and chipping in some places. How do I get rid of the old paint so I can repaint them? Just chip it off? Sand it?
Canibets-
My cabinets are just plain pieces of wood with some protective clear coat over them. How would I paint these? Can I just wash them and paint right over them? What product should I use to wash them? Could I add some skinny moulding pieces in rectangular shapes near the edges of each wood slab to add some texture?
Stove-
I have a gas stove. Do I need to call some gas guy to disconnect my stove/oven in order to paint the wall behind it? Will it be expensive?
Flooring-
I feel as though I could peel the whole sheet of whatever it is in my kitchen floor off of my kitchen floor fairly easily. I'm thinking of going with some type of durable, flexible tile- vinyl?- that doesn't require any mortar or anything.. the adhesive type. Any suggestions? What condition should the floor under the current "floor sheet" be in in order to apply adhesive-type "tiles"?(the floor project is for another date in the near-future)
Other-
Any other suggestions or quick, cheap, affective asthetic-improving ideas are wayyy welcome.

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read this and help me out:)

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Brian LevredgePro Member
Investor · Chattanooga, TN · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 903 votes
16y

Anytime you are going to do some painting in the kitchen, it's best to go over all the surfaces with some type of degreaser. Lighter colors that compliment each other work best. You'll want to go with a semi gloss because it's easier to clean and maintain. You may even be able to do gloss (oil base) but that may be illegal as it is some counties in CA. You will definitely want to prime all surfaces before painting.

On that note, prep work is the most important part of any paint job. Cutting corners will leave you with a paint job that looks bad. You can use a putty knife to scrape off old paint and then you'll want to sand those spots to smooth them out. You'll want to use a rougher texture sand paper at first to do the heavier work (120) and then use a lighter grit (150) to do your finish sanding. Cabinets can be especially difficult as the different grains in the wood and the frames themselves can make the brush marks stand out.

I would strongly caution you against doing this whole project yourself. I'm not sure that you realize how much you're biting off. At the very least, I would pay someone else to install the vinyl, especially if you are going to install vinyl tiles. If you don't know how to square a room, you are going to end up with a floor that is going to look very bad.

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  • Brian LevredgePro Member
    Investor · Chattanooga, TN · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 903 votes
    16y

    Anytime you are going to do some painting in the kitchen, it's best to go over all the surfaces with some type of degreaser. Lighter colors that compliment each other work best. You'll want to go with a semi gloss because it's easier to clean and maintain. You may even be able to do gloss (oil base) but that may be illegal as it is some counties in CA. You will definitely want to prime all surfaces before painting.

    On that note, prep work is the most important part of any paint job. Cutting corners will leave you with a paint job that looks bad. You can use a putty knife to scrape off old paint and then you'll want to sand those spots to smooth them out. You'll want to use a rougher texture sand paper at first to do the heavier work (120) and then use a lighter grit (150) to do your finish sanding. Cabinets can be especially difficult as the different grains in the wood and the frames themselves can make the brush marks stand out.

    I would strongly caution you against doing this whole project yourself. I'm not sure that you realize how much you're biting off. At the very least, I would pay someone else to install the vinyl, especially if you are going to install vinyl tiles. If you don't know how to square a room, you are going to end up with a floor that is going to look very bad.

    4Reply
  • Mitch Kronowit
    SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    16y
    Originally posted by Emily Sulliban:
    Here are my questions and areas in which I hope for some sort of advice or suggestions:

    Wood Paneling-
    I want to paint the wood paneling a fairly light color. Do I need a primer first? Does it need to be water-proof for around the sink? What type of finish do you suggest? What type of product should I use to clean the paneling before I paint them? .

    There might be new products on the market now (your paint store guy can tell you), but the old standby used to be trisodium phosphate (TSP) for degreasing before repainting. It's usually sold as a powder that you mix with hot water. Wear rubber gloves, it's nasty stuff. http://www.house-painting-info.com/trisodium-phosphate.html After they're clean, prime with something like Kilz. Depending on what the paneling looks like, you might even consider filling the faux grain/texture with wood filler and simply paint it to look like a smooth wall. Use a gloss or semi-gloss for an easy to clean surface. There are even some paints that have mildew-cide mixed right in.

    Windows- The paint on them is old and chipping in some places. How do I get rid of the old paint so I can repaint them? Just chip it off? Sand it?

    You must be talking about painted window frames. Ugh, you have my sympathies. They're a pain in the butt even on the best days. You can goof around with paint strippers or heat guns (careful around the glass), but for on the cheap, I would just scrape the loose stuff and paint over.

    Canibets-
    My cabinets are just plain pieces of wood with some protective clear coat over them. How would I paint these? Can I just wash them and paint right over them? What product should I use to wash them? Could I add some skinny moulding pieces in rectangular shapes near the edges of each wood slab to add some texture?

    First clean with the TSP or equivalent. Then, as Brian suggested, you should rough up the clear top coat with sandpaper. Then prime and paint. I have a friend who repainted her cabinets using a white base coat, then used a "dry brush" technique with brown paint over the white giving her cabinets a very attractive faux wood finish. There's must be thousands of tips like this on the net. I wouldn't mess with molding around the edge unless you can do it well. You need to cut the angles very precisely and then attach them either with glue so they don't come off or brads without splitting them.

    Stove-
    I have a gas stove. Do I need to call some gas guy to disconnect my stove/oven in order to paint the wall behind it? Will it be expensive?

    You should be able to just pull the stove out a couple of feet and get behind there with a mini-roller on an extension. Otherwise, disconnecting the gas usually involves shutting the valve off behind the stove (there should be one) and removing the line with a wrench. If you're not comfortable doing this, hire a pro as Brian suggested.

    Flooring-
    I feel as though I could peel the whole sheet of whatever it is in my kitchen floor off of my kitchen floor fairly easily. I'm thinking of going with some type of durable, flexible tile- vinyl?- that doesn't require any mortar or anything.. the adhesive type. Any suggestions? What condition should the floor under the current "floor sheet" be in in order to apply adhesive-type "tiles"?(the floor project is for another date in the near-future)

    Flooring is a lot of work, even with the easy peel-n-stick tiles, because the mounting surface, i.e., the floor, has to be absolutely clean or you're just asking for trouble. Even if you can peel up the old floor (I'm guessing linoleum), that doesn't mean it's ALL coming up. It could be de-laminating leaving the substrate attached to the sub-floor and the decorative vinyl coating in your hand. The entire floor needs to be scraped with a razor blade (don't worry, not a little Schick razor, a 3-4" floor razor) if it's on a concrete slab like we see so much in California. If the sub-floor is plywood or OSB, I'm not sure what to do since an underlayment is probably involved.

    Post before and after photos when you're done!




    4Reply
  • Just Don
    Member since 2009 · 499 posts · 117 votes
    16y

    Who 'owns' this kitchen?

    You or your mother?

    If your mother comes home to paneling and cabinet painting,,she may or may not be 'thrilled'

    Even tho you think it is an improvement she may 'like' it unpainted better.

    Surprises are sometimes best discussed beforehand. You cant unring that bell.

    3Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Thank you sooo much Brian and Mitch... Very helpful tips and suggestions!
    Yes, the window frames are painted and will be a PITA. And yeah, the floors are linoleum. For some reason that word was on the tip of my tongue last night haha.

    So, here are my list of things to get as far as painting goes:
    TSP
    I think I'm gonna go with the no-rinse type for the paneling and walls as I'm pretty sure I would never feel as though it was rinsed off enough and I'd kill myself trying to fully rinse it all off for like 2 days straight.
    TSP
    Original, scary rinsable type just to try and break down the finish on the cabinets a bit.
    A Paint Scraper or 2
    For the window and door frames
    A little bit of Spackle
    For a couple of dings in the wall above the paneling
    Primer
    Paint
    Semi Gloss
    White for the window and door frames, the 2' of wall above the paneling, and the cabinets.
    Some undecided light neutral color for the paneling.
    Painters Tape
    Rollers
    Brushes
    Sandpaper
    Already have some
    A hand sander
    Already have a couple

    I'm missing a few things in my list, like paint can openers, paint trays, cleaning items to accompany the TSP, etc. I just figured they were too obvious to list.

    Just Don- Technically speaking, my uncle owns the kitchen. Non-technically speaking, my mom owns it. I've talked to her several times throughout the last year or so about painting the kitchen, as well as about other "face-lift" ideas for the house. She'll be happy, trust me. The cabinets we have aren't the type that you would be concerned about painting.

    The floor will be for a later date. I know a few people who can and will answer any technical questions I have, and I'll prepare myself accordingly before I start on it!

    So, I'm going to get my check, cash it, go to my school to drop off some papers(irrelevant), go back to HD and pick up supplies, and then I'll post some before pictures:)

    Thanks again guys!

    2Reply
  • Brian LevredgePro Member
    Investor · Chattanooga, TN · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 903 votes
    16y

    If you can, rent an electric hand sander at Home Depot. Sanding anything by hand is a huge PITA.

    0Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Brian, sanding by hand is indeed a PITA. My brother's girlfriend has an electric sander at her mom's house, so that's available to me if the PITAness outweighs my not wanting to inconvenience her.

    I got all the stuff I need to prepare my kitchen to be painted- the scary washing stuff (if anyone would give me tips on how to rinse this stuff off my cabinets and paneling, that would be great as my store didn't have the non-rinse type), the spackle, the paint chipper things, painters tape, and spraypaint for the things that go around the electrical outlets, as well as a few other things that I don't remember at the moment (lol)..

    I'm taking the cabinet doors off, the electrical outlet and switch covers off, spraypainting the switch/electrical covers, chipping paint, washing, more chipping, sanding, then putting up the blue tape. I'll get the paint later today once all the prep work is done.

    For some reason my phone isn't sending the before pictures to my email, so I can't post them right now. I'll work on that more later.. they will be up eventually.

    1Reply
  • Steve Babiak
    Real Estate Investor · Audubon, PA · Member since 2009 · 13k+ posts · 8k+ votes
    16y

    If you're set on spray painting the electrical plates / covers, then I suggest you line up the screw heads for spray paint as well (tape over the threaded part and try to have the heads of the screws level). You'll want the screws to match the plates.

    1Reply
  • Mitch Kronowit
    SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    16y
    Originally posted by Emily Sulliban:
    Brian, sanding by hand is indeed a PITA. My brother's girlfriend has an electric sander at her mom's house, so that's available to me if the PITAness outweighs my not wanting to inconvenience her.

    As long as you and Brian are talking sanders, I'll chime in again. Try and get a Random Orbit (RO) sander vice a cheap finishing sander. The RO, or dual-action, sander will sand much faster and leave far fewer swirl marks and scratches. Like Brian said, you can probably rent one from Home Depot or something, but then again, if you're going to use it a lot, and you will, consider purchasing a good one (they generally run for less than $80).

    You're also going to go through a lot of sanding disks, so my favorite sanders (I have a Porter-Cable) are the ones with a "hook-and-loop" sanding pad. Basically the sandpaper attaches like Velcro. As soon as the sanding disk wears out, peel it off, and slap on a new one in less than 2 seconds. Much better than cutting up sheets of sandpaper and fiddling with a cheap sander's paper-holding contraption. There are also some that use Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) disks, pretty much a sanding "sticky", but I've never used one before except for my detail sander (a whole other topic).

    You should also hook up the sander to a vacuum to collect the dust. Many come with their own little collection baggy or canister, but they fill quickly and still don't do nearly as good a job as the powerful suction from a shop vacuum.

    Have fun!

    1Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y
    Originally posted by Mitch Kronowit:
    You're also going to go through a lot of sanding disks, so my favorite sanders (I have a Porter-Cable) are the ones with a "hook-and-loop" sanding pad. Basically the sandpaper attaches like Velcro. As soon as the sanding disk wears out, peel it off, and slap on a new one in less than 2 seconds. Much better than cutting up sheets of sandpaper and fiddling with a cheap sander's paper-holding contraption.

    A friend of mine came over with some drinks and her dad's electrical sander, which is that type^^^
    Those things sand so fast.. less than 10 minutes on each cabinet door and i sanded the whole protective coat thing off and smoothed it out!
    So, we got the canibents all painted, the first coat at least, washed the walls, spray painted the electrical covers as well as the screw heads (thanks Steve) and are almost finished chipping and sanding the window frames!
    I'm up early today to finish sanding the frames, sand the cabinet base, set up the blue tape, and paint the first coat on the trim and cabinet base, and do the second coat on the cabinet doors :) Once the trim and cabinets are dry I'm going to do the second coat,
    It's gonna look so different when it's done!

    Still, for some reason my phone isn't sending the pics. I have to call VZW.. I have a feeling it has something to do with the fact that I changed my phone plan last month, though it shouldn't have affected my picture messaging(:pissed:) If I can't end up getting them sent through email I'll have to hook my phone up to my computer and upload them that way, which is always more complicated than it should be.

    Question:
    I didn't put a primer on before I did the first coat of paint on the cabinet doors:crazed: I figured since they were light that I didn't need a primer, and forgot that they had the potential to get water on them here-and-there.
    Should I make my second coat the primer? Or can I just do the second coat of paint and use an after-paint sealer type thing? Like a clear coat?

    3Reply
  • Elisha Lowe
    Homeowner · Philadelphia, PA · Member since 2010 · 123 posts · 66 votes
    16y

    Emily, wish I had something to add but I am not handy at all. I just wanted to root you on and say that's really kind of you to think of helping your Mom that way.

    2Reply
  • Marc Freislinger
    Flipper · Phoenix, AZ · Member since 2009 · 973 posts · 679 votes
    16y

    i have a quick note, if the house was built before 78, wear a mask when you're sanding incase there is lead paint. Especially around old wood windows.

    2Reply
  • Mitch Kronowit
    SFR Investor · Orange County, CA · Member since 2009 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    16y
    Originally posted by Emily Sulliban:
    I figured since they were light that I didn't need a primer, and forgot that they had the potential to get water on them here-and-there. Should I make my second coat the primer? Or can I just do the second coat of paint and use an after-paint sealer type thing? Like a clear coat?

    Hmmm, it's kind of late now. Primer isn't just for painting light over dark, it bonds the paint to the surface below. If the first coat of paint doesn't bond well to the cabinets, placing primer over it isn't going to help, i.e., when the paint peels, it's taking the primer, and anything else on top, with it.

    Hopefully, the sanding you did created a good enough surface for the paint, so just put on a second coat. If it's a gloss or semi-gloss finish, I wouldn't bother with a clear top coat, especially any oil-based varnished or polyurethanes because they will cast a yellow tint on the light paint underneath.

    2Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Thanks Elisha!
    Thanks Marc, I've been wearing a mask since I've started sanding:)
    Mitch, it seems as though the sanding is enough to keep the paint sticking well.. thankfully! The only reason I've ever had to use a primer was for dark colors going light, not for water protection or paint adhesion, so it just slipped my mind amidst all the craziness.

    The cabinets are all done, put back and everything. It looks good so far! Today I didn't have any help today, so everything took a lot longer than anticipated. I started at 9am and worked steadily throughout the whole day and so far(9:30pm) I have all the cabinets done and put back, the first coat of paint around the top of my wall, above the paneling, and some more sanding of the windows down. I was hoping to get it all done today as this is my last day off of work before my mom gets back, at least the first coat on every surface was what I was hoping, but I ended up running out of sandpaper and I couldn't get a ride to the store.

    So, tomorrow while I'm at work my brothers girlfriend is gonna sand more around the trim and when I get home at 8ish I'll paint the second coat above the paneling, and hopefully paint the first and maybe second coat on the trim. I'll vacuum tomorrow and probably end up saving painting the paneling til next week.
    Way more work that I anticipated, but I'm definitely getting it done!

    :)

    2Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    So, yesterday I didn't get to paint the door and window frames since the sanding wasn't done and I got home at around 10:30. At that time my nephew was sleeping, and the sander is, of course, loud. I intended on sanding the rest this morning but I guess my brother's girlfriend and my nephew stayed home today, and the sound of the sanding in the kitchen is apparantly really loud in the living room.
    All that's done so far is my cabinets are completely sanded and painted painted- 2 coats on every surface and put back on, and the wall above the paneling was spackled then painted, 2 coats. The window and door frames are partially sanded (a lot of work, there are 7 door frames in my kitchen!).
    All that's left to do this week is finish sanding them and get the paint on them.
    Next week I'm painting the paneling and rearranging a few things in the kitchen.

    Since I've been trying for 10 minutes and have yet to figure out how to pst the pictures directly onto this thread, here's the link for the before pictures:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/galleries/show/8975

    2Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Now & Ideas (don't laugh at my sketches!)

    Now:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/photos/show/112599
    Now:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/photos/show/112599
    Now:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/photos/show/112599
    Idea1:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/photos/show/112599
    Idea2:
    http://www.biggerpockets.com/photos/show/112599

    Edit: Ugh!!! They're all the same pictures for some reason! IMO, it's too complicated to upload pics to threads on this site. Anyways, just use the right and left arrows to scroll through the album, whoever may be reading.

    1Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Before:

    So Far:



    Ideas:


    1Reply
  • Steve Babiak
    Real Estate Investor · Audubon, PA · Member since 2009 · 13k+ posts · 8k+ votes
    16y

    Emily,

    I see that you are rearranging some items in this kitchen.

    One thing that people sometimes fail to realize is that most items in the kitchen have some kind of door, and that all of these doors must be able to fully open in order for the item to be useful wherever it may be placed. I have seen oven doors that could not be opened due to banging into something nearby; ditto for diswasher doors and ESPECIALLY refrigerators. Refrigerator doors have to open almost all the way to allow for those drawers inside to be pulled out.

    Anyway, be certain to allow for these doors to open.

    Also, many refrigerators that have their cooling coils in the rear will require some space for air to flow over those coils; such refrigerators can't have their backs directly against the wall if they are to properly operate.

    3Reply
  • Account Closed
    Full-Time Investor · Charlotte, NC · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    16y

    if you're movin stuff around, also gotta make sure you have the necessary hookups for it, electric 120 and 240 hookups waterline if there's an icemaker....other than that, looks good..keep goin, i think your mom will be pleased

    1Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Thanks Steve and Bryan. Fortunately I've taken into consideration the fact that all doors must be able to open haha.. there will be enough room:)
    The only thing I'm really moving is the fridge, which is moving to a spot that its actually been in before, so the hookups are there.

    Today I'll be sanding the inside of the cabinets, painting them, finishing sanding the window frame and hopefully finishing sanding all of the door frames. Tonight I want to atleast put all the tape up and hopefully get the first coat of paint on all the frames! Lets see how it actually plays out though..

    1Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Soo, apparantly there are 6(!) layers of different colored paint on each of the 7(!!!) doorframes. Wow.
    There's no way that I want to sand all that down to the wood!
    Is it possible to just sand enough over all the surfaces to roughen up the texture of the paint, then put a primer on and paint it as opposed to sanding all the way through the 6+ layers of paint down to the wood and then repainting?
    This house is full of surprises..

    0Reply
  • Steve Babiak
    Real Estate Investor · Audubon, PA · Member since 2009 · 13k+ posts · 8k+ votes
    16y

    Two approaches you can use.

    1. Paint strippers. They will soften the paint so that it can be more easily removed with scrapers.

    2. Feather sanding - light sanding where you try to remove as little paint as possible; just enough to smoothen things a bit.

    Some spots might need some filler compounds to achieve really smooth results.

    0Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Thanks Steve. I went with feather sanding. Paint strippers creep me out.
    A few days ago I took down the mismatched cabinet and finished feather sanding all the door frames and a couple of doors that won't be replaced. I painted all the door frames, 2 coats. I still have a couple of spots to touch up, but they're pretty much done.
    As far as painting the paneling goes, I'm not sure exactly when it'll get done. Moneys tight the next couple of weeks because school starts in the beginning of September and I have to get all my books and supplies and whatnot. Hopefully there's some extra money somewhere for atleast the first coat on the paneling.
    Even though there's not much to show, here's one pic of the last door and frame that I sanded and painted.
    When I do the touchups on the doorframes, I'll finish sanding the insides of the cabinets and paint them white, as well as atleast get the face of the window frames 100% sanded and painted. I've been putting of the window frames forever it feels like, they intimidate me.
    The next update will probably come after the inside of the cabinets and face of the window frame is painted, when the first coat is on the paneling. That's when it'll look reallly different :)

    1Reply
  • Account Closed
    Full-Time Investor · Charlotte, NC · Member since 2009 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    16y

    stay positive..my first rehab took a summer and most of first semester...i was washing dishes in the bathtub waitin for money to come in to order my countertop for the kitchen!!

    0Reply
  • Mary R.
    Investor · Tucson, AZ · Member since 2009 · 171 posts · 27 votes
    16y

    Hi Emily,
    You said, "And yeah, the floors are linoleum. For some reason that word was on the tip of my tongue last night haha."
    Your present floor is not linoleum. It is what used to be called, and maybe still is, rolled vinyl. I had that same pattern laid in my kitchen in 1972.

    Here's a couple of links re linoleum flooring.
    http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/products/linoleum
    http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/floor-buying-guide/linoleum.html

    That's quite a job you've taken on. Best wishes for continued success.

    0Reply
  • Emily Sulliban
    OP
    Methuen, MA · Member since 2010 · 40 posts · 29 votes
    16y

    Thanks Bryan, sounds like a situation I would find myself in haha. I'm envisioning the outcome and that's keeping me positive:)

    Originally posted by M Read:
    Hi Emily,
    You said, "And yeah, the floors are linoleum. For some reason that word was on the tip of my tongue last night haha."
    Your present floor is not linoleum. It is what used to be called, and maybe still is, rolled vinyl. I had that same pattern laid in my kitchen in 1972.

    Here's a couple of links re linoleum flooring.
    http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/products/linoleum
    http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/floor-buying-guide/linoleum.html

    That's quite a job you've taken on. Best wishes for continued success.


    Thanks M. My mom was calling it linoleum, so I thought that's what it was. Atleast I knew it was 70's haha.

    So, I FINALLY got the windows sanded and painted. What a hassle! They're all done except a couple of spots that you can see the pictures. Good thing is that the rest of the work regarding the windows is wayy easy and won't really be time consuming. Unfortunately, I still haven't painted the inside of the cabinets. Once the windows are 100% done and the inside of the cabinets are 100% sanded and painted, the hard part as far as the painting goes is over.
    Here are the pics:

    0Reply
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