HELP! Sellers didn't disclose major issues - unrentable and requires massive repairs
Member since 2019 · 3 posts · 2 votes
Just a potential short term solution to the emptying daily issue, I don't have answers to the other questions above.
I don't know how the humidifiers are configured, but you might be able to put a small pump into each reservoir (search "automatic bilge pump" on amazon) and move the water into either a larger collection tank (think 55 gallon drum) or drain. Might be able to pump it up out of the basement entirely if you are creative. This would solve the problem of having to be there daily. Likely would move it to weekly, if you can pump it entirely out of the basement then it's handled indefinitely (you just need to check on the bilge pumps).
Shorter term solution, probably could be done in 5 hours by someone handy for less than $200 of materials.
EDIT: take a look at the SAILFLO 2000 GPH 12v Electric Bilge Pump. In the specs, it says it can pump water up 20 feet vertically, so that should get you out of a basement if it has a window or something. You'll need to figure out how to wire it (it's not that tricky, a lot of devices have a 12v power supply) or pick a different model that can plug into a wall but has similar specs.
Just a potential short term solution to the emptying daily issue, I don't have answers to the other questions above.
I don't know how the humidifiers are configured, but you might be able to put a small pump into each reservoir (search "automatic bilge pump" on amazon) and move the water into either a larger collection tank (think 55 gallon drum) or drain. Might be able to pump it up out of the basement entirely if you are creative. This would solve the problem of having to be there daily. Likely would move it to weekly, if you can pump it entirely out of the basement then it's handled indefinitely (you just need to check on the bilge pumps).
Shorter term solution, probably could be done in 5 hours by someone handy for less than $200 of materials.
EDIT: take a look at the SAILFLO 2000 GPH 12v Electric Bilge Pump. In the specs, it says it can pump water up 20 feet vertically, so that should get you out of a basement if it has a window or something. You'll need to figure out how to wire it (it's not that tricky, a lot of devices have a 12v power supply) or pick a different model that can plug into a wall but has similar specs.
@Ashley Gamble not sure how I didn't see this before but I hope you have made progress on this issue by now. Assuming the property is in the Denver area, the issue is likely drainage and ground water. I am not a lawyer, but the fact that that concessions were give for the issues I would think would weaken your case. Personally, I would look to their agent for some responsibility. Especially if they knew the sellers. Agents must also disclose known issues in Colorado. My thought is that your first task is to figure out exactly what must be done to correct the situation and then get a price tag. I realize you are a ways away but if you get an attorney involved you are looking at more time and in my experience, most people are never are happy with the out come. Lots of money to attorneys, lots of time lost and you still have a house that needs fixing.
One word of caution, be careful of who you take advise from concerning the HVAC and drainage issues. There are often cost effective solutions (ie a few thousand dollars) vs 10s of thousands when you consult the correct advisors. Remember, this is a rental property and most companies are accustomed to dealing with home owners. There are some HVAC companies that unless they design the system and it's newer than 5 years, they recommend a whole new system. They are more sales than solutions IMO.
Also be careful regarding the "structural engineer". I had a old house (1940s construction) that the buyer brought in a friend who was "a structural engineer". That structural engineer told the buyer to "run from it". I looked up the engineer's resume and their "experience" was less than five years of designing new commercial steel office buildings for the suburbs. The next buyer brought in an engineer who had over 20 years experience with older residential homes in Denver and said, "yeah, it's not perfect and certainly not to current code but it will likely continue to function as it has for the past 80 years." They bought the home and have had no complaints to my knowledge.
With regards to wet basements and crawl spaces, many times the simple solution is to correct drainage around the exterior. Extensions on downspouts 10 ft away from the building, grade the surface to slope away from the foundation at least 6 inches in 4 feet, provide positive surface drainage around the structure, and finally stop irrigating landscaping within 10 ft of the structure. There are only few areas where the ground water is high enough to significantly impact a structure. In a lot of cases, there was a drainage system installed but it was not properly maintained and therefore doesn't work.
I hope you get this worked out.
Like Bill was leading to, your first task is to stop the water intrusion. It’s a bit confusion as you talk mostly about the humidity level but not about standing water. Gallons of humidity from the air itself is certainly an oddity.
So you need to find where the water is getting in. If it’s not from leaky pipes, nor high-water levels, then it’s from surface water.
If the house was built on a slope then you’ll need a French drain installed on the high side to take the water away from the foundation and around the house. If the house is built on level ground, then just get a landscaper to slope the ground away from the house all the way around. Also, make sure you have gutters (are they clean?) that have downspouts that terminate at least four feet away from the foundation.
Once you stop the water intrusion you’ll be able to see what, if anything, needs to be fixed. Remember, your tenants aren’t going to pay you more rent for a pretty basement so only do what you need to to keep them warm, safe, and dry.