Your best financing will be for an owner-occupied property - lenders require you to occupy within 60 days of the purchase.
So, when will you be back in Michigan?
Here's some other copy & paste advice:
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If I was starting out again with what I know now, I'd look to acquire a 2-4 unit property with an FHA 3.5% low-down payment mortgage.
I'd also look into using an FHA 203k renovation loan, allowing me to buy something ugly, thus unqualified for a standard mortgage, which would weed out a lot of competition and push the price lower.
To maximize my cashflow and gain landlording experience, I'd do STR and MTR in the other units, as well as the other bedrooms in my unit.
Since most cities won’t allow basement rental units, I’d consider finishing the basement, just well enough for me to live down there (cities don’t care if owner chooses to live in basement), so I could rent out ALL the units/rooms.
I'd save all my cash and look to refi the property in 1-2 years out of the FHA mortgage, so I could use it again if necessary. Depending on how close I was to having 20% equity in the property and being able to avoid PMI, I'd consider using some of my cash to pay down the mortgage when I refinanced. Otherwise, I'd save my cash for the next acquisition.
I’d also be posting on every social media platform and telling everyone I knew that I was looking for more real estate deals. I’d aim for low downpayment land contracts and lease options.
After refinancing out of the FHA mortgage, I'd evaluate if I wanted to repeat the 2-4 unit FHA 203(k) process again or if I had the 20% down to target 5+ units.
While still living in the property, AFTER the refi out of the FHA mortgage, I'd also explore securing a HELOC to tap my equity for emergencies.
Can’t find a rental property that cashflows?
Many newbies analyze deal incorrectly 😣
You’re probably thinking you have to offer asking price – not true!
To determine what to offer on a rental property:
Determine reasonable market rent, NOT the highest!
· Deduct NEW property taxes (research change after you buy!)
· Deduct home insurance costs
· Deduct maintenance percentage, typically 10%
· Deduct vacancy+tenant nonperformance percentage
(we recommend 5% for Class A, 10% Class B, 20% Class C, good luck with Class D)
· Deduct whatever dollar/percentage of cashflow you want
Now, what you have left over is the amount for debt service.
Enter it into a mortgage calculator, with current interest rate for an investment property, to determine your maximum mortgage amount.
Divide the mortgage amount by either 75% or 80%, depending on the required down payment percentage - this is your tentative Offer Price.
If the property needs repairs, you'll want to deduct 110%-120% of the estimated repairs from this amount.
Be sure to also research the ARV and make sure it's 10-20% higher than your tentative purchase price.
As long as the ARV checks out, this is your Offer Price.
It is probably significantly below the asking price. Who cares? If you pay more, you won't meet your metrics and will probably have negative cashflow and/or equity.
So, now you need to try to figure out why the seller is selling and how motivated they are:
- How long has the property been listed?
- How many price drops have there been?
- How beat-up does the property look?
- For MFR, how many vacancies and for how long?
- Etc.
Keep in mind the bigger the gap between your Offer Price and the listed price, the less likely your offer will be accepted.
You may have to make 10, 20 or even 100 offers to get one accepted at the price that meets your numbers.
This is what all investors did BEFORE the Great Real Estate Crash of 2008-2010 spoiled newbies.