Has anyone ever used the Velocity Banking Strategy?

Has anyone ever used the Velocity Banking Strategy?

Don SpaffordPro Member
Investor · Idaho Falls, ID · Member since 2016 · 912 posts · 629 votes

I searched for Velocity Banking but did not get anything to return except for some lenders using that name. I just was introduced to this strategy this week and was curious if anyone has done it and what their experience with it was.

If yuo don't know, the basic concept is to use a line of credit from the bank and use it like a checking account so you put yout income into it but get a LOC for like $10k, add in your income for that month, and use the $10k to pay the principal, and then pay your other expenses from that account and as long as you are spending less than what is going in, you build that LOC back up again so you are able to pay back the $10k LOC and then use it again to pay toward the principal. So if you save $1k each month, then every 10 months you can use it again or get an increased LOC and use a larger amount. Doing this strategy gets a 30 yr loan paid off in about 7 years and saved tons of interest. The LOC calculates interest on an average daily balance, so as you have money going into it each month, you are creating less of an amount to charge interest for. So over the course of a year, for that $10k LOC, assuming $4k income and $3k expenses, for a $250k mortgage at 5.25%, you pay about $13k in interest on the mortgage payments (first year of mortgage) vs only a few hundred dollars on the LOC.

The only down-side I can see is opportunity cost. That money that you are saving each month could be deployed to purchase other properties rather than helping to pay off any specific loan. But if you have enough other sources of income and strictly use the rental income for any given property to put back into its own LOC, then theoretically, you can have full 100% cash flowing properties in 7-8 years, depending on how much you are saving each month. You could even use it for your primary residence.

I just bought my first 4 plex this week, literally closed the same day I was shown this strategy, and it blew my mind. I want to use it with this property since it will be cash flowing about $700/mo and if I can get it paid off much sooner and save a lot of money in interest, that would be awesome.

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Rental Property Investor · Pasadena, CA · Member since 2016 · 164 posts · 149 votes
9y

What you have to remember with this Velocity banking stuff is that it really isn't this golden goose brilliant idea that some people make it out to be. If it was, everyone would be doing it. It's also the reason why smart people can't understand what is so "brilliant" about it, because it isn't brilliant or that helpful. People advertise it as a way to pay off a mortgage in 7 years etc blah blah blah it all sounds good to the ill informed or financial illiterate, but in all honesty, you could actually do that with any mortgage you want, you just have to be disciplined. The Velocity banking is more of a way to force you to diligently pay something off quickly. Another trick they like to talk about is how much interest it saves you, they typically show you how much interest you would pay over 30 years on a mortgage and take that entire interest amount as a % of the loan or house value, which is not a true % interest you are paying lol. And of course if you pay off a house in 7 years, you "save" a lot in interest, but you can do the same by paying off a mortgage in 7 years conventionally (albeit you would still pay a little more interest). This Velocity banking is more like one of those credit card hacking people where they have a slightly better rewards package on their credit card, sure they make a few bucks more, but the effort and time it takes to do it is not worth it to some people. Yes the method is probably slightly better than just using a conventional way of paying, but it's not absurdly better or genius. This is why it's so hard to try and understand why it's so much better, it's just not. Trust me, I'm a CPA and work in corporate finance and  I've sat through a demonstration on this.

You make a very good point about opportunity cost with the HELOC and it's a huge detractor from this method. Why would you seriously care to pay down a 4-5% mortgage quickly if you are an investor and can earn 8-20% on your money. I posed this same question to the person on stage in a 40 person presentation on Velocity method and the presenter gave some ridiculous response that didn't make any sense.

I'm not saying this is necessarily a bad idea or a scam, but rather not some crazy good thing. The benefit from a HELOC is that it allows you to front the payment for a month, which lowers the average amount you owe on your loan throughout the month, and thus the interest you pay is lower, whereas if you didn't have the HELOC, you would have to wait a month to see that decrease in interest. They then say to take that interest savings and put it against your mortgage again and keep doing that and you have it paid off in 7 years. Ok sure, why would I want to do that if my mortgage rate is 4.2% lol, why not take that savings and invest it. They target peoples emotions "pay off your mortgage in 7 years WOW!!!" when in reality it's probably not the smartest financial advice.

See this reply in the discussion

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  • Redwood City, CA · Member since 2017 · 5 posts · 2 votes
    8y
  • Real Estate Agent · Circleville, OH · Member since 2008 · 633 posts · 488 votes
    8y

    Someone told me about this 'amazing trick'.

    But here's my question - Aren't ALL Mortgages calculated on daily interest? I'm pretty sure all the mortgages I have use a daily interest rate, and if you make pre-payments in a specific way (Assigned to either interest or principal) you can attack your interest rate just as quickly and there's no need for software, a HELOC or anything like that.

  • Investor · Las Vegas, NV · Member since 2014 · 19 posts · 3 votes
    8y
    Attached is an article I came across a few years back that explains the strategy - “How the Affluent Manage Home Equity to Safely and Conservatively Build Wealth”. I hope this adds value to this thread. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-vb_ErmfcohcmxiM1dQR2tXdUE Aloha!
  • Investor · Las Vegas, NV · Member since 2014 · 19 posts · 3 votes
    8y
    Here is a better link to the pdf of the article: http://www.clevelandhousingmarket.com/images/MortgagesAreNotBad.pdf
  • Don SpaffordPro Member
    OP
    Investor · Idaho Falls, ID · Member since 2016 · 912 posts · 629 votes
    8y

    @David Dachtera What banks have you had the most success with that will allow this strategy? @Renee Bridwell Maybe you can answer specific for Idaho unless you know of National banks that will do it. I have had numerous people contact me mentioning that they have spoke with multiple banks and none of them would allow them to move money in and out of a LOC account. Is there a better way of asking about it or specific positions in a bank that would understand the idea more than just anybody that picks up the phone? Thanks for additional input on this, I think it will help many people that understand the concept and want to implement this but just can't get started.

  • Investor · New York, NY · Member since 2015 · 43 posts · 29 votes
    8y

    @Don Spafford@John KaiYou are 10-12 years too late for this.  The value of the strategy is no longer available in the US.  What you are doing now is overcomplicating a simple Suze Orman or Dave Ramsey payoff strategy.  

    Here is how the strategy worked in the good ole days...

    -Some banks and credit unions combined a 1st lien 30yr fixed rate loan or ARM with an embedded HELOC. Except the entire loan could be a HELOC. But there was only one loan balance and one monthly payment.

    -The idea was that you parked all of your cash at the bank and the bank only accrued interest on the net balance.  So in theory your w-2 income was deposited into the account reducing your mortgage principal and over the month you would pay your bills and the balance would rise back up. 

    -The win for you was the reduced interest paid over the month on a somewhat smaller balance.  The win for the bank was additional cheap deposits that they could redirect to more profitable, short-term commercial loans.

    -Where we really made our money was gaming the system so to speak.

    -Mortgage rates were 6-7% depending on your desired term and index. Other banks and credit unions would offer prime + HELOCs with a two year teaser rate of 1-2%. You would move your 7% first lien money to your 1% HELOC and rake in the cash in the form of reduced borrowing costs. Once the HELOC term ran out you would rinse and repeat.

    -If you had lots of properties you could essentially bring your cost of funds down by 50%.  Scale it up and you were basically printing money.

    -The arbitrage is now gone. You can still work it but your yield is basically zero. Your better strategy is to just pay down your debt. The secret of the good ole days was having the 1st lien double as the HELOC. Those days are over for now.

    -The game will come back when mortgage rates go back to 7-8% and the teaser HELOCs return.  But I'm guessing we are a ways from that.  

  • Investor · Las Vegas, NV · Member since 2014 · 19 posts · 3 votes
    8y

    Thanks for the analysis.   I’ll be sure to be positioned to take advantage of that arbitrage play when the cycle returns again.   

  • Brian CardwellPro Member
    Investor · Odenton, MD · Member since 2017 · 204 posts · 144 votes
    8y

    This method absolutely still works today. Once you understand how it really works, it all about moving the money around properly. If you have a 30yr mortgage in the first position and a HELOC in the second position, one can pull an amount out, park their paycheck in the HELOC. Then one can move the amount of their bills to the checking acct and pay them from there.

    Now I think the interest only method have too many unknowns for me to be comfortable with it. It looks really good in theory. The big unknown for me is the return on the your investment. The numbers used in the article are based on the 6 to 8 percent return and the tax break. It could be that I just haven't grasp the concept yet.

  • Investor · New York, NY · Member since 2015 · 43 posts · 29 votes
    8y

    @Brian Cardwell Yes I agree you can still try it but I would think you need a very large spread between what you can get on a HELOC and what your carrying costs are. If you have access to 4-5% HELOC money and your first lien position is north of 10%, then I could see it possibly working. But it's still problematic because you still need to make a contractual monthly payment on the first lien regardless of the balance or activity on the HELOC. This makes the strategy more capital intensive. And with mortgage rates so low and prime-based HELOC rates rising rapidly, its a numbers fail. That's why I say you are better off just attacking the debt.

    There is another way to accomplish this same result on any loan using something easier to obtain than a HELOC but it involves more sophistication and planning and is not for everyone. I'll just leave that there.

    Wow you guys are bringing back some fond memories.  Hopefully those days will return soon. 

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y
    Originally posted by @Brandon Schlichter:

    Someone told me about this 'amazing trick'.

    But here's my question - Aren't ALL Mortgages calculated on daily interest? I'm pretty sure all the mortgages I have use a daily interest rate, and if you make pre-payments in a specific way (Assigned to either interest or principal) you can attack your interest rate just as quickly and there's no need for software, a HELOC or anything like that.

    Correct. There's nothing magic about this strategy. The only way you come out ahead is to pay lower interest on one of the loans, pay more principal down on mortgage early by using a HELOC for cash flow, or some combination thereof. The rest of it is hokum. If you pay me $17,000 I will tell you how all this work. :-)

  • Brian CardwellPro Member
    Investor · Odenton, MD · Member since 2017 · 204 posts · 144 votes
    8y

    Lol I already know how it works ....how about you pay me 17k not to tell for free.j/k

  • Rental Property Investor · Rockford, IL · Member since 2014 · 4k+ posts · 2k+ votes
    8y
    Originally posted by @Don Spafford:

    @David Dachtera What banks have you had the most success with that will allow this strategy? @Renee Bridwell Maybe you can answer specific for Idaho unless you know of National banks that will do it. I have had numerous people contact me mentioning that they have spoke with multiple banks and none of them would allow them to move money in and out of a LOC account. Is there a better way of asking about it or specific positions in a bank that would understand the idea more than just anybody that picks up the phone? Thanks for additional input on this, I think it will help many people that understand the concept and want to implement this but just can't get started.

     Don,

    It's not up to any lender to "allow it". It's up to you to do it.

    If the loan you want to accelerate has an early repayment penalty, plan your strategy around that.

    You don't "move money". A line of credit is exactly that: you make expenditures and you repay them. It's as simple as that. If the bank won't accept a payment from a credit line applied to another loan you have with them, deposit the money with another institution (to yourself in cash, on PayPal or some other repository) briefly - a month or so, whatever it takes, then pay it against your home loan ... or, get a credit line at another institution.

    Hope this helps ...

  • Rental Property Investor · Rockford, IL · Member since 2014 · 4k+ posts · 2k+ votes
    8y
    Originally posted by @Scott L.:
    Originally posted by @Brandon Schlichter:

    Someone told me about this 'amazing trick'.

    But here's my question - Aren't ALL Mortgages calculated on daily interest? I'm pretty sure all the mortgages I have use a daily interest rate, and if you make pre-payments in a specific way (Assigned to either interest or principal) you can attack your interest rate just as quickly and there's no need for software, a HELOC or anything like that.

    Correct. There's nothing magic about this strategy. The only way you come out ahead is to pay lower interest on one of the loans, pay more principal down on mortgage early by using a HELOC for cash flow, or some combination thereof. The rest of it is hokum. If you pay me $17,000 I will tell you how all this work. :-)

     Actually, home loans - whether they're secured by a mortgage or a Deed of Trust - are amortized loans. You probably got an amortization schedule at closing. That tells you how much of each payment goes to principal and how much to interest if you make only the minimum scheduled payment.

    Accelerate that pay back and your position in the amortization schedule moves based on how much principal you have paid beyond the minimum scheduled payment. That is, really, the key to reducing interest paid: accelerate the principal repayment.

    By the way ... telling how to do it is "free" here on BP. Clearing up misunderstandings, misinterpretations and misconceptions is where the "$17,000" comes in ;-) .

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y
    Originally posted by @David Dachtera:
    Originally posted by @Scott L.:
    Originally posted by @Brandon Schlichter:

    Someone told me about this 'amazing trick'.

    But here's my question - Aren't ALL Mortgages calculated on daily interest? I'm pretty sure all the mortgages I have use a daily interest rate, and if you make pre-payments in a specific way (Assigned to either interest or principal) you can attack your interest rate just as quickly and there's no need for software, a HELOC or anything like that.

    Correct. There's nothing magic about this strategy. The only way you come out ahead is to pay lower interest on one of the loans, pay more principal down on mortgage early by using a HELOC for cash flow, or some combination thereof. The rest of it is hokum. If you pay me $17,000 I will tell you how all this work. :-)

     Actually, home loans - whether they're secured by a mortgage or a Deed of Trust - are amortized loans. You probably got an amortization schedule at closing. That tells you how much of each payment goes to principal and how much to interest if you make only the minimum scheduled payment.

    Accelerate that pay back and your position in the amortization schedule moves based on how much principal you have paid beyond the minimum scheduled payment. That is, really, the key to reducing interest paid: accelerate the principal repayment.

    By the way ... telling how to do it is "free" here on BP. Clearing up misunderstandings, misinterpretations and misconceptions is where the "$17,000" comes in ;-) .

    The amortization schedule is provided by the bank to illustrate the amount of the payment toward principal and interest from each payment if paid on exactly the due date. For payments received earlier or later, the amount of interest paid will vary slightly based on the date of receipt and other factors. The only way to pay off a mortgage faster is to pay less interest or more principal than required by the amortization schedule. If you finance these additional payments, through whatever mechanism....a HELOC, 0% credit cards, my secret $17,000 plan, there's no way to pay off faster without refinancing at a lower interest rate or paying more principal sooner. With current interest rates the "float" on a HELOC from immediately depositing funds to it and paying bills from it when due is not really going to save you a lot. This is simply the business concept of reducing cash on hand/working capital to the minimum necessary to maintain your obligations. Since us little guys don't have access to the commercial paper markets and guaranteed lines of credit (HELOCS can be frozen), we're really safer keeping cash on hand and foregoing the (negligible) interest savings in return for peace of mind. No one yet has come up with a way to pay a mortgage faster without paying more principal earlier than required, which of course begs the question of where this additional cash comes from.... ;-)

  • Investor · Meridian, ID · Member since 2017 · 14 posts · 18 votes
    8y

    Wow, there's a lot of opinions about this here. This isn't a magic trick. There's no smoke and mirrors.

    1. James Kendrick, I'm afraid your "good old days" posts contain information that is not accurate. I've been in the mortgage business since 1999. There are 1st lien HELOCs still available, as well as 2nd lien HELOCs. It doesn't matter what rate you have on your 1st mortgage. The HELOC doesn't even matter. You can even do this strategy with a credit card or personal line of credit. The scenario I love to show people is doing this with a credit card that has 21% interest, just to show how the way society thinks about interest needs to change. Also, I cringe when I see or hear Suze Orman or Dave Ramsey. They offer terrible advice. I suppose they serve a purpose for some people for short term, but their solutions are eating beans and rice to survive, throw all of your money to pay down debt, switch to a 1 year fixed mortgage, etc. The Velocity Banking strategy is SO MUCH BETTER! You don't have to change your lifestyle. You still have access to that extra $ you're paying toward your debt if you need it. If you just make extra payments on your loans, that money is gone. You can't swipe your 1 year fixed mortgage at the gas pump or grocery store if you need it.

    2. Alyse Azeveo, it doesn't surprise me that you can't do your Bill pay with a LOC. Online bill pay is set up for a checking account. However, HELOCs come either with checks or debit cards. You would use that to pay your bills. Or set up automatic payments with your creditors.

    3. But it's part of an Education package (which I purchased myself) that teaches it in depth, along with so many other money saving and money making topics and strategies. It's for financial literacy. Tax and Legal strategies to help you pay 2/3 less taxes. How to use self-directed retirement accounts to invest in real estate. Understanding credit, Real Estate Red Flags, Real Estate Essentials, and several other classes...and it's only $1997.  If someone can't see the value in having these tools and only paying $1997 (which is tax deductible by the way) to save tens of thousands of dollars in interest & taxes, then that's unfortunate. There's a time when a "free" video or blog can be helpful, but would you want to fly in a plane that had a Pilot who learned how to fly after a free online tutorial? How about a Surgeon? How about a Lawyer, a Mechanic, etc.? Quality education is important. Knowledge is the key to wealth and financial freedom. I happened to pay $20,000 to be able to access not only financial literacy education (which has saved us thousands already), but also multiple investment strategies taught by practitioner-instructors who make over a million dollars annually practicing what they teach.

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y

    You owe $100,000 on a 30 year amortized mortgage. How do you pay it off faster without paying principal early? Where does the money for the early principal come from? A HELOC? Ok where does the money to pay the HELOC come from? Ahhh the lower (prime - 0.25) rate on the HELOC. What happens when the rate goes up. Or if it doesn't how much interest does the (slightly) lower interest rate on the HELOC save you? 1st lien, second lien, variable or fixed....where does the extra money to pay the principal early come from, without reducing other expenses. Answer: From selling my $17,000 software so YOU TOO can use my secret trick... :-0

  • Brian CardwellPro Member
    Investor · Odenton, MD · Member since 2017 · 204 posts · 144 votes
    8y

    The extra cash comes from you. It's all about how one moves the money. One first needs to be open minded  enough to be taught a different way of thinking. It isn't a difficult thing. There is no need to pay for the information when it is out here for free. There will always be those who want to charge people for this information instead of just paying what they learned forward.

    But it never fails, when one doesn't understand something, they will bash what they don't understand. 

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y

    Where does the money "move from"? Or more importantly where does it come from? Another loan, a HELOC, sitting around under my couch cushions...? The way to pay a loan off faster is to pay more money to the principal sooner than required by the terms. This money has to come from somewhere... OK if you're telling me you borrow it at a lower rate from HELOC etc. Or you maximize your payment terms on bills that don't have interest like utilities...fine, but show me how this is going to be more than a one time recapture of some working capital or cash.... Unless you have massive monthly cash flow this just isn't going to make much difference. Now if it's a technique to get you to cut your expenses on things you really don't need or want, by showing what you're spending where, fine. But that's just Dave Ramsey with fancy software and lots of shuffling. If there was some magic way to pay off a 30 year mortgage in 7 years with no pain, everyone would be doing it. By all means, shave 50 basis points off all your loans by managing cash flow to the penny, but just don't tell everybody your making them 10,000 a year by doing it unless they owe $2MM. In the meantime I know how you can lose 50 pounds by eating more than you do now and not exercising....I'll tell you for $1900 or you can look up tapeworms on Google.

  • Rental Property Investor · Escondido, CA · Member since 2017 · 679 posts · 550 votes
    8y

    @Don Spafford  

    Someone asked the question at some point in the threat and I did not see an answer. There is a lot of good information here but also a good amount of confusion - probably unintentionally.

    For me, I try to keep it as simple as possible. If I get a regular 30 year mortgage for $100K, the bank/lender gives me an amortization schedule that tells me exactly what my interest and mortgage payments will be each month for the whole 30 years. It also discloses to me that I will have paid close to $200K if you add all my payment together for the whole time. Since I owe $100K to begin with, I pay the another almost $100k in interest. I will have to pay about $535/month. Let's say I have other expenses to live, car , etc. of about $1000/month, the bank will probably want me to make about 3000/month to be comfortable to give me the mortgage.

    If I do the exact same thing with a $100K HELOC in 1st lien position for the same house, the same monthly expenses, and instead of 5% interest rate I assume 6% interest rate, I will be done paying in 7 years. Many people here will say that I am paying an extra each month into the HELOC - yes that is true. But my interest is also calculated every day and not once when I get the mortgage. Every time I reduce the balance, it is calculated and adjusted, so more of my payment goes towards principle and less to interest. My lifestyle does not change., All payment remain the same - assuming I am disciplined.

    If you want to optimize even more, you do all your monthly payments using a credit card and you pay it off before the credit card payment is due. The credit card company is basically giving you the money for your payments for free during the month if you pay them when the statement arrives using a check from your HELOC account.

    The last and most impressive kicker for all the investors in our BP community is your ability to react to an opportunity immediately. Just imagine, 4 years into executing the plan described above, someone offers you to buy an apartment and if you can do it right away and in cash you get it for $50 instead of $65K. With your HELOC strategy you can do that at that same day, write the check for the $50K, close and receive title. If that apartment pays you $300/month after expenses, you will still be done with your original $100K purchase after a total of about 10 years. After that time you own your original property plus the $50K apartment. With that you can buy more properties using the full $150K.

    With the original traditional mortgage plan you would still have to pay for another 20 years and your balance (showing how much you owe in principle) will be still almost the same $100K as you had at the beginning. Daily average interest and access to equity are the two main points. Your life is totally the same and your payments are totally the same.

    You go amortized and be a proud owner of a $100K property 30 year later (assuming no appreciation). I go HELOC and will be the proud owner of $450K in equity (assuming no appreciation). I guess you decide what you prefer.

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y

    The fallacy in this argument is assuming that the amortized 30 year mortgage does not calculate interest based on the daily balance of the principal. It does. If you pay your regular payment on the 1st, then $1000 to principal on the 2nd, then you will eventually pay less than 360 equal payments. You might pay 358...or whatever, depending on how much extra you paid on the second. Now if on the 15th you borrow back the 1000 from your HELOC to pay other bills, you now have to find enough money to pay your mortgage, regular bills, and the 1000 back next month. Or you can just let it ride and pay interest on it until you find an extra 1000 to pay the HELOC. Perhaps in 30 years when you don't have to pay the 359th mortgage payment because of the 1000 you originally borrowed from the HELOC. Even if you replace your 30 year mortgage with a 1st lien HELOC, it doesn't matter, you still have to pay interest and principal until you pay the principal off. Assuming the same interest rate, it will take you exactly as long unless you pay more each month. If you think the cash flow of paying your interest free net 30 monthly bills at the last minute (I.e putting them back on the HELOC till next payday is going to save you massively, you're wrong. If you pay your 100000 off in 7 years it's because you paid (a lot) more each month to it than if you took 30 years to pay it off. You can wave around 30 year amortization schedules and HELOC daily balances based on payday timing all you want until you confuse the heck out of people but it doesn't manufacture money out of thin air.

  • Brian CardwellPro Member
    Investor · Odenton, MD · Member since 2017 · 204 posts · 144 votes
    8y

    Scott you seem to be the only one confusing the point here. Intentionally or not. The fact is with most mortgages the interest is calculated monthly. Of course there is always an exception. 

    Using the docs example. If you make $3k a month (a requirement of the bank) and all your bills come $1500 then you have $1500 extra a month that would go to paying down the principle. Now how can you use that $1500 month and still have access to it? Use a line of credit to pay all your bills and use your month cash to pay the line of credit back. You come out ahead because the line of credit interest is calculated using average daily balance. So your net will be a savings in interest payments on a month basis. Each month your principle is lower on the primary mortgage so your monthly interest calculation is lower. 

    I have done it personally. I know it works. I got rid of my primary mortgage. Scott if you don't understand it, maybe this is not for you and that is fine. 

  • Investor · Flower Mound, TX · Member since 2017 · 182 posts · 198 votes
    8y

    Let's say your mortgages are calculated monthly and HELOCS are compounded daily. Fine, its really a small point with daily or monthly compounding. If you run a calculator as if you're the bank, you'll find it makes a couple percent difference in the total interest paid (received by the bank) over the course of the loan. If you pay $3000 on your first lien HELOC on the first, then borrow back $1500 of it to pay your bills on the 15th. You save 15 days of interest on $1500 at say 5%...So you save $3.12. If you do it every month for 30 years it saves you $1125 over the 30 years. Not even a full payment. So this helps you pay it off in 7 years how?

    The only difference with a regular mortgage is you can't "borrow back" an advance payment of principal to pay your bills later in the month. And on the "monthly" vs. daily calculation, ask your bank when they credit an early principal payment for the calculation of interest...On the date it's received....or at the end of the month it's received? Even if they waited it's still only a difference of the interest on that payment for one month. So a couple dollars. There was a long thread on this method a couple years ago. Someone finally did a "daily cash flow" spreadsheet with assumptions described in these plans for a 30 year mortgage payoff.  The result was it paid off a month or two early assuming no additional early principal payments. The monthly/daily interest calculation and amortization differences are negligible. There are two ways to pay off a loan faster. Get a lower interest rate. Pay more principal sooner. 

    I paid of my 200,000 7% mortgage originated in 1998 in two years. How? By paying extra principal instead of investing it in Internet stocks like my colleagues. They laughed at my 7% return, until they didn't...

  • Brian CardwellPro Member
    Investor · Odenton, MD · Member since 2017 · 204 posts · 144 votes
    8y

    Well either way YOU spin it . I paid off my $252k mortgage in less than 7 years

  • Investor · Dayton, OH · Member since 2017 · 9 posts · 1 vote
    8y
    Originally posted by @Brian Cardwell:

    Well either way YOU spin it . I paid off my $252k mortgage in less than 7 years

     In so many other forms I have seen the BP community provide guidance "details" and I can't help but wonder on why not the same level of openness on this one. 

    I have personally been researching this method for months and have called more than 20 different banks to learn more... I've even developed up a checklist that I'll share if anyone want's it/and will add to it... I guess I'll just keep researching because although I'd like to take the step I can't see myself refinancing into a 1st Lien w/o knowing exactly how to execute for success.

    If there are any books or information you or others are willing/able to share I'm standing by. 

  • Investor · Dayton, OH · Member since 2017 · 9 posts · 1 vote
    8y
    Originally posted by @Brian Cardwell:
    Originally posted by @Account Closed:

    I have a small problem. My bank will not allow me to use my LOC for my Bill pay. How do I work around that?

    So you can handle this by transferring the money from the LOC to your checking account for your bills. Just make sure that you leave the excess in the HELOC.

    This would be a 2nd Lien HELOC correct? In this case will you still be as effective as a mortgage in the 1st Lien?

    I've read that the 1st lien are "safer" for you and the lender but can you achieve the same results w/o being in the 1st position? 

    Also, would you mind explaining what the excess left into the HELOC dose and how it works?

    For example, you have 30K available but draw 20K ... what is that extra 10K doing while sitting inside your LOC?

    Thanks in advance for your time.

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