Ask me your electrical questions!

Rehabbing & House Flipping
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Ask me your electrical questions!

Loren Thomas
Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes

I've been an electrician in Washington (the real one..) for 10 years, residential, commercial, and industrial. I've learned a ton from BP so this is me trying to give back with knowledge of something I know very well. Hit me up anytime.. even if you're reading this a year from now..

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George P.
Property Manager · Livonia, MI · Member since 2011 · 4k+ posts · 1k+ votes
11y
Originally posted by @Shawn Thom:

Sometimes I look at older homes that have old break boxes or have brands that are known to be bad.  I ask my electrician about changing out the breaker box and he gives me a price.  That part I get.   Then he talks about changing out the service as well.  What all does changing out the service include?

 it means everything from the riser, the rain head, the cam, the meter, the wire from the meter to the pane.. 

look at this pic... it's from the "weatherproof fittings" to the "Service wire holder".

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  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Hello,

    Alright so your verbiage here makes the questions kind of hard to follow. When you say 110 Amp and 220 Amp, do you mean volts? 

    Seems to me a proper set up would have an electrical panel in each unit from it's own meter.

    1Reply
  • Jose Barrios
    Investor · Chicago, IL · Member since 2016 · 30 posts · 8 votes
    9y
    I am an electrician in Chicago. Where is the property located? I can give you a professional opinion. I work for a union contractor and don't do side jobs. Just looking to pay it forward. I live in Bridgeport.
    1Reply
  • Anthony Rodriguez
    Investor · Chicago, IL · Member since 2015 · 8 posts · 2 votes
    9y
    Hi Jose Barrios! Thanks for your response. The property is located in the Belmont-Craigin area. We have three meters but the breaker boxes are not 200 amp breaker boxes. Instead we have two 100 amp breaker boxes and then a sub-panel fuse box. My thoughts would be to have a 200 amp breaker box for each level of the property, where the basement, garage and utility room are all tied into one of those breaker boxes. Hopefully this makes more sense.
    0Reply
  • Jose Barrios
    Investor · Chicago, IL · Member since 2016 · 30 posts · 8 votes
    9y
    With looking I would think that the panel with the fuses are for the public lights and outlets. Depending on the square footage of each level I don't see why you need to upgrade the panels to 200A. Again depending on the sq footage I would guess that a 200A service with distributed to 100A panels will suffice. Changing from fuses to breakers is considered an upgrade to everyone except electricians. We understand that fuses are more reliable than breakers. So I would leave that box in place unless someone is making you change it. I'm sorry what is your question?
    0Reply
  • William R.
    Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2013 · 139 posts · 43 votes
    9y
    I'v read this entire forum, and appreciate the information that you have shared. I am currently rehabbing a small house. I just got the city and electric company to sign off on getting the the electricity back on, that was no easy chore... Now that it's on, most everything appears to work, but none of the circuits have enough "voltage?" For example, my circular saw seems to run at about 1/4 speed. Any ideas on troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance.
    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Hello, grab a voltage meter and check for the correct voltage. Standard outlets should be 120v and the larger appliances are probably 220v if they are electric. If your saw is running at partial speed, you may have a neutral wire lose somewhere.

    1Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y
    Originally posted by @Jose Barrios:

    With looking I would think that the panel with the fuses are for the public lights and outlets. Depending on the square footage of each level I don't see why you need to upgrade the panels to 200A. Again depending on the sq footage I would guess that a 200A service with distributed to 100A panels will suffice. Changing from fuses to breakers is considered an upgrade to everyone except electricians. We understand that fuses are more reliable than breakers. So I would leave that box in place unless someone is making you change it.

    I'm sorry what is your question?

    I'm in agreement with most of this. Most small dwellings don't need 200A. 

    I do not agree that fuses are more reliable than breakers. Not to mention most fused systems don't have ample grounding. It's nice to reset the breaker if it trips than buying and replacing fuses.

    0Reply
  • Jose Barrios
    Investor · Chicago, IL · Member since 2016 · 30 posts · 8 votes
    9y

    my apologies- I am talking about Chicago. All of our systems are very well grounded. After the great Chicago fire our politicians have voted very strict building codes. There isn't a single wire that isn't in either emt or heavy wall pipe. No romex or sheathed cable in all of the city and 90% of the county. We don't follow the NEC

    0Reply
  • William R.
    Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2013 · 139 posts · 43 votes
    9y

    I had 4 breakers that had a red and black wire.  I guess there are two circuits ran off of one four strand wire? The city inspector said that only one wire was permitted per breaker.  He said I needed two pole breakers.  I didn't believe I had room in the panel, so I used double breakers with handle ties at his recommendation.  If I got the wires mixed up could this cause an issue? I'v had several people suggest that it is probably a grounding problem, where should I start to try to figure that out, in the panel? 

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Ok there's a couple of red flags with your picture there. 

    While it is true you can't "double tap" a breaker, you can wire nut multiple wires together and run a a wire (pig tail) from that wire nut to the breaker.

    You have peanut breakers (2 handles) in a few spots, you should to confirm that the black and red wires from the same cable are NOT on the same peanut breaker and are NOT on the same phase. If they are on the same, the neutral can become overloaded. I can't tell by your pic if this is an issue, but it's something to look for. Typically, if you have 2 cables, each with a black and red, put the 2 blacks on one peanut breaker, and the two reds on a peanut breaker either directly above or below the one with the black wires.

    On the right side, I see a lot of neutrals under one screw. No bueno. Each neutral needs its own screw, how it is now can create a lose connection.

    Same side, I see a bundle of ground wires on one screw. Also no bueno. You can have 2 ground wires (up to #12) on the same screw.

    Right side, 3rd breaker down, appears to have 2 difference size wires. 

    Something insignificant, its always black then red. Black on top, then red.

    0Reply
  • Brandon James
    WASHINGTON, DC · Member since 2014 · 27 posts · 4 votes
    9y
    Hey Loren, Want to install an exterior light that shines bright over my alley and driveway. What will I need to bring electricity to that area? The location isn't already pre wired for a light. I know how to install an exterior light fixture and connect the wires but when it's not already pre wired is my concern. Please help!
    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Hello,

    You can run power for a flood light off of almost any outlet or switch. Make sure you use the same size wire as what you're tapping in to. Also I'd use and LED lights to reduce the chance of an overloaded circuit.

    0Reply
  • Jon Reynolds
    Investor · Los Angeles, CA · Member since 2015 · 5 posts · 0 votes
    9y

    hello a year later! I am looking to repurpose a shipping container and am comparing the costs to a comparable analog, like mobile homes or RVs. I am trying to understand the costs of the utilities installation for mobile homes/RVs, in terms of electrity and bathroom. 

    The basic idea would be a shipping container living space with electricity/insulation/bathroom and some windows to have airflow optional.

    Thank you for taking the time to do this!

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    John,

    Are you asking what I think it'll cost to outfit a shipping container as a living space? There's a lot of variables there

    0Reply
  • Jon Reynolds
    Investor · Los Angeles, CA · Member since 2015 · 5 posts · 0 votes
    9y

    In the most basic sense of living space, yes. 

    I am looking to create a cost comparison for the systems that go into those basic things when making the mobile home or whatever other analogs you have experience with. 

    I am hoping to understand the costs of building an RV or basic mobile home!

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Subpanel or service? full kitchen? What heat source? Ventilation? 

    0Reply
  • Sterling Cox
    Jacksonville, FL · Member since 2016 · 48 posts · 14 votes
    9y

    Hi, @Jon Reynolds,

    I built a 20 foot container home similar to one you described. It has a small bathroom, electricity, plumbing, hot water and a kitchenette....and windows.

    If you have a good idea of what you want, I can give you a price breakdown.

    PM me when you get a chance.

    -Sterling

    0Reply
  • Hilde M. L.
    Investor · New Windsor, NY · Member since 2016 · 41 posts · 0 votes
    9y

    Hi @Loren Thomas,

    Thanks for your willingness to share your expertise! Looking to have separate electric meters for a 3-unit multi-fam. There were electrical updates done, currently has 2 electric meters (1 for common areas, 1 for whole house) but somehow owner did not separate electric for each apt. What is an approximate cost of separating meters? 

    Thanks!

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    Cost varies way too much for me to give you a solid answer here.

    A local electrical contractor is going to be your best bet.

    0Reply
  • Rich Baer
    Real Estate Investment Attorney · Kingsville, MD · Member since 2016 · 643 posts · 408 votes
    9y

    @Loren Thomas

    Greetings. This question is about a hardwired smoke detector. It started to do the annoying slow beeps (1 every minute or so). I immediately changed the battery (it was overdue) but it continued to beep. I took out the battery and it continued to beep. I eventually had to cut the 3 wires (I couldn't disconnect the wires in the back) as it was driving everyone crazy. I threw it in the trash and it still was beeping. I had an electrician come and reattach a new one. He said he had never encountered such a thing and that it must have become defective. What do you think?

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    I agree with his assessment. I came across one of these in my own house last year. I didn't cut any wires but I did throw it in a dump run I started and I could hear it for 2 weeks in our driveway, under other crap, in the rain.

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    BUMP

    0Reply
  • Eddie T.
    Rental Property Investor · NY · Member since 2013 · 844 posts · 350 votes
    9y

    @Loren Thomas I recently had an engineering inspection performed on a property and they found rust in the panel box. What would you suggest I should do in this situation? Their was no active water intrusion found.

    0Reply
  • Loren Thomas
    OP
    Electrician · Bothell, WA · Member since 2014 · 241 posts · 96 votes
    9y

    The rust is certainly worth noting. A leak or drain or flood of years past maybe. If there's no rust or corrosion or any other sort of water damage on the electrical components then I'd say leave it be... it's leftover from a previous symptom.

    1Reply
  • Ryan Bodenhorn
    Investor · Galena, OH · Member since 2015 · 7 posts · 2 votes
    9y

    I recently updated all of the outlets and switches in a rental property, which I have done several times before, and everything works fine except one of my switched outlets is now always hot on both top and bottom even when the switch is flipped off. Do you have any recommendations?

    0Reply
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