Anyone have any roofing questions ?

Investor · North Richland Hills, TX · Member since 2016 · 167 posts · 57 votes

I have over 30 roofing certificates. I have done roofing for over 10 years. If someone has any roofing questions I would be happy answer.

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Misty James

Rental Property Investor · Member since 2018 · 27 posts · 14 votes

Hey Mike, quick update. I can't thank you enough for your expertise on "all things roofing". After months of screwing around wasted money and time, I took your advice and replaced the sky lights as you suggested. Wow what a difference. No more leaks and the light that comes through the new panels is amazing. You were correct they were never properly installed (never would have stopped leaking no matter what I tried).

Many thanks and appreciation

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Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
9y
Originally posted by @Account Closed:

heres what i got on my roof in south florida where hurricanes come..yikes...need an expert opinion..bought house 3 years ago
Im looking at the wind mitigation report. here it goes
1. Asphalt /fiberglass shingle---permit 02/2014
2. Built up.
3. Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16"inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24" inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6" inches in the field. - OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width). -OR Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance than Sd common nails spaced a maximum of 6 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 182 psf
Minimal conditions to qualify for categories B, C, or D. All visible metal connectors are: Secured to truss/rafter with a minimum of three (3) nails, and Attached to the wall top plate of the wall framing, or embedded in the bond beam, with less than a 1/2" gap from the blocking or truss/rafter and blocked no more than 1.5" of the truss/rafter, and free of visible severe corrosion.
4. C. Single Wraps Metal connectors consisting of a single strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and is secured with a minimum of 2 nails on the front side and a minimum of 1 nail on the opposing side
5. C. Other Roof Any roof that does not qualify as either (A) or (B) above.
6. NSR
not sure relevant to roof
A. WOOD FRAME: 14% (Gable ends) B. MASONRY: 86% C. OTHER: %
can you break it down in lamens terms?
That looks like a spec sheet taken out of a code book or city ordinance. Did you get that when you bought it?
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Account Closed
Investor · Boca Raton, FL · Member since 2017 · 108 posts · 18 votes
9y
Originally posted by @Mike Reynolds:
Originally posted by @Account Closed:

heres what i got on my roof in south florida where hurricanes come..yikes...need an expert opinion..bought house 3 years ago
Im looking at the wind mitigation report. here it goes
1. Asphalt /fiberglass shingle---permit 02/2014
2. Built up.
3. Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16"inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24" inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6" inches in the field. - OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width). -OR Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance than Sd common nails spaced a maximum of 6 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 182 psf
Minimal conditions to qualify for categories B, C, or D. All visible metal connectors are: Secured to truss/rafter with a minimum of three (3) nails, and Attached to the wall top plate of the wall framing, or embedded in the bond beam, with less than a 1/2" gap from the blocking or truss/rafter and blocked no more than 1.5" of the truss/rafter, and free of visible severe corrosion.
4. C. Single Wraps Metal connectors consisting of a single strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and is secured with a minimum of 2 nails on the front side and a minimum of 1 nail on the opposing side
5. C. Other Roof Any roof that does not qualify as either (A) or (B) above.
6. NSR
not sure relevant to roof
A. WOOD FRAME: 14% (Gable ends) B. MASONRY: 86% C. OTHER: %
can you break it down in lamens terms?
That looks like a spec sheet taken out of a code book or city ordinance. Did you get that when you bought it?
no i copied and pasted the important parts from the wind mitigation report that was done for the home inspection before i bought it...i actually have the whole report but i only copied the relevant parts i thought were most important..its from the actual report pdf file..yes to answer your question..i got it when i bought home inspection
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Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
9y
Originally posted by @Account Closed:

Originally posted by @Mike Reynolds:

Originally posted by @Account Closed:
heres what i got on my roof in south florida where hurricanes come..yikes...need an expert opinion..bought house 3 years ago
Im looking at the wind mitigation report. here it goes
1. Asphalt /fiberglass shingle---permit 02/2014
2. Built up.
3. Plywood/OSB roof sheathing with a minimum thickness of 7/16"inch attached to the roof truss/rafter (spaced a maximum of 24" inches o.c.) by 8d common nails spaced a maximum of 6" inches in the field. - OR- Dimensional lumber/Tongue & Groove decking with a minimum of 2 nails per board (or 1 nail per board if each board is equal to or less than 6 inches in width). -OR Any system of screws, nails, adhesives, other deck fastening system or truss/rafter spacing that is shown to have an equivalent or greater resistance than Sd common nails spaced a maximum of 6 inches in the field or has a mean uplift resistance of at least 182 psf
Minimal conditions to qualify for categories B, C, or D. All visible metal connectors are: Secured to truss/rafter with a minimum of three (3) nails, and Attached to the wall top plate of the wall framing, or embedded in the bond beam, with less than a 1/2" gap from the blocking or truss/rafter and blocked no more than 1.5" of the truss/rafter, and free of visible severe corrosion.
4. C. Single Wraps Metal connectors consisting of a single strap that wraps over the top of the truss/rafter and is secured with a minimum of 2 nails on the front side and a minimum of 1 nail on the opposing side
5. C. Other Roof Any roof that does not qualify as either (A) or (B) above.
6. NSR
not sure relevant to roof
A. WOOD FRAME: 14% (Gable ends) B. MASONRY: 86% C. OTHER: %
can you break it down in lamens terms?
That looks like a spec sheet taken out of a code book or city ordinance. Did you get that when you bought it?
no i copied and pasted the important parts from the wind mitigation report that was done for the home inspection before i bought it...i actually have the whole report but i only copied the relevant parts i thought were most important..its from the actual report pdf file..yes to answer your question..i got it when i bought home inspection
Ok I got you. I was thinking it was something you got after the hurricane at first.
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Na Russo
Member since 2017 · 1 post · 0 votes
8y
We just had our 11 month walk thru for our new house and our builder said our roof is "normal". Please let me know what you think...
0 Reply
Jennifer Miller
Member since 2018 · 1 post · 0 votes
8y
I paid for Timberline weathered wood architectural shingles but noticed that the leftover shingles in the driveway say GAF Royal Sovereign weathered gray 3-tab. They look like architectural shingles up on my roof. The difference in warranty is huge! Would the roofers need 3 tab for my roof? There were 6 unopened boxes of the 3-tab and 1 opened box left. Was I bait and switched? What should I do?
0 Reply
Account Closed
Opelousas, LA · Member since 2014 · 25 posts · 4 votes
8y
@Justin Stanfeild We are currently looking at a four plex which needs a new roof. It currently has shingles on it. We would like to put a metal roof. Question: Would it be wise to install the metal roof directly on top of the current shingle roof without removing the old shingles? Thank You in Advance.
0 Reply
Charlie Pioli
Orlando, FL · Member since 2018 · 14 posts · 4 votes
8y
Hi Justin,
I just got my inspection back on my first single family home purchase. The roof shingles are broken in some places (see attached photos).
Also, the roof was replaced only 5 years ago, although I live in the harsh Florida climate. Any advice what to do? Can I just replace the shingles individually?
0 Reply
Rhonda Wilson
Rental Property Investor · Tacoma, WA · Member since 2018 · 113 posts · 149 votes
8y
I have a question. Mold in attics is really common where I live. We have it in some buildings due to poor ventilation. That is, we get condensation on the underside of the plywood of the roof and that molds. We have addressed the ventilation issue with a humidity activated fan. Now with the mold no longer growing, is it really necessary to get rid of the dead mold? Or, can I just wait until it's time to replace the roof (5-10 years) and deal with it then?
0 Reply
Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Jennifer Miller:

I paid for Timberline weathered wood architectural shingles but noticed that the leftover shingles in the driveway say GAF Royal Sovereign weathered gray 3-tab. They look like architectural shingles up on my roof. The difference in warranty is huge! Would the roofers need 3 tab for my roof? There were 6 unopened boxes of the 3-tab and 1 opened box left. Was I bait and switched? What should I do?
Looks like our roofer is awol for a bit. I only have three certifications and am too old to roof now.
One of them is GAF. Those Royal Sovereign are 25 year shingles even though they are three tab. The thing to note is they may have used those only on the ridge as ridge row. Do you have three tab shingles on the roof or architectural? If architectural then I am fairly sure they only used it for the ridge.
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Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Account Closed:

@Justin Stanfeild
We are currently looking at a four plex which needs a new roof. It currently has shingles on it. We would like to put a metal roof.
Question: Would it be wise to install the metal roof directly on top of the current shingle roof without removing the old shingles?
Thank You in Advance.
It has been done before but I wouldnt advise it. The cost to remove the shingles and get to the meat of potential problems are better than not knowing what you have underneath the roof. The weight factor is another issue.
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Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Charlie Pioli:

Hi Justin,
I just got my inspection back on my first single family home purchase. The roof shingles are broken in some places (see attached photos).
Also, the roof was replaced only 5 years ago, although I live in the harsh Florida climate. Any advice what to do? Can I just replace the shingles individually?
You should be able to not too much problem. Since you are in Orlando and I have roofed there I know your codes. You should have two layers of felt. Both inspected individually then the shingles also inspected. You have three separate inspections for your roof there. If your roof is done correctly it should be easier to replace a few shingles. Remember to use the local code hurricane nail pattern with at least 6 nails instead of 4.
Note, I have not roofed there in ten years so check current codes to be sure they havent changed.
2 Reply
Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Rhonda Wilson:

I have a question. Mold in attics is really common where I live. We have it in some buildings due to poor ventilation. That is, we get condensation on the underside of the plywood of the roof and that molds. We have addressed the ventilation issue with a humidity activated fan. Now with the mold no longer growing, is it really necessary to get rid of the dead mold? Or, can I just wait until it's time to replace the roof (5-10 years) and deal with it then?
Maybe you could bleach the mold until then just in case? I dont know much about that part of the country but I dont think mold is anything to wait on to fix. At the very least a little bleach is cheaper than 5 years worth of sinus pills. I hope someone from that area chimes in on this.
1 Reply
Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Na Russo:

We just had our 11 month walk thru for our new house and our builder said our roof is "normal". Please let me know what you think...
What you have is the nails didnt hit the rafters and the plywood is coming up at the joints. Notice they are alternated at about 4' intervals meaning they staggered the joints but they failed to nails them properly.
NOT normal at all but substandard instead.
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John W.
Rental Property Investor · Buffalo, NY · Member since 2017 · 257 posts · 130 votes
8y
What's your opinion on doing a 2nd layer on a garage...no flashing involved.
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Misty James
Rental Property Investor · Member since 2018 · 27 posts · 14 votes
8y
I purchased a house it has sky lights that are leaking, have tried to repair but A. I'm not sure if it is the seal or the lights that are leaking and B what would you recommend to be the cheapest fix?
0 Reply
Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @John W.:

What's your opinion on doing a 2nd layer on a garage...no flashing involved.
Its done all the time in Texas but we dont have the snow load you have there. This will depend on how it was built and your local codes. Maybe a NY roofer can chime on this one. Sorry I couldnt be more help.
1 Reply
Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
Originally posted by @Misty James:

I purchased a house it has sky lights that are leaking, have tried to repair but A. I'm not sure if it is the seal or the lights that are leaking and B what would you recommend to be the cheapest fix?
Can you get me a picture of the skylights? You probably have a flashing problem. Thing is most roofers will "get by" with the old flashing on skylights, fireplaces and other penetrations on the roof. The actual cost of the new flashing isnt that much but labor is what they try to save. I have seen some flashing that I have had to tear three layers of shingles from them. It could also be the skylights being old though so a picture would really help.
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Misty James
Rental Property Investor · Member since 2018 · 27 posts · 14 votes
8y
0 Reply
Misty James
Rental Property Investor · Member since 2018 · 27 posts · 14 votes
8y
Hi Mike, here are pics. and thanks for the feedback it's appreciated.
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Mike ReynoldsPro Member
construction · Nacogdoches, TX · Member since 2011 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y
@Misty James Well I see the problem. You need to change that out with a new skylight. They used the top part and nailed it down with out the sides being on it. This is what it should look like.
That way you can install step flashing around it and keep the water out. Something like this one.
Look at this link and when you or someone you hire installs it you will know if its done right.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/roof/roof-repair/ma...
The only thing I dont agree with is reusing the flashing. Its what I mentioned earlier and its a bad practice imo. Flashing cost about 30-50 dollars. Unless you have copper or zinc flashing (and you have none on yours btw) I always replace it. This can be a less than 500 dollar fix with a new skylight. Keep us posted on how it goes and best of luck.
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Misty James
Rental Property Investor · Member since 2018 · 27 posts · 14 votes
8y
Wow Mike now I see why the leak wouldn't stop. I've previously tried to correct this problem twice. Well thank you for the recommended solution, I appreciate that.
1 Reply
Oleksandr Kolisnichenko
Member since 2018 · 2 posts · 0 votes
8y
Yes. I want to install a new roof and I wasn’t recommended to work with https://misterroof.net/
Can you check them and give me a feedback?
0 Reply
Jay Ramirez
Member since 2018 · 1 post · 0 votes
8y
I have a question - I have a tile roof with some metal flashings. Home inspector said they need to be painted. Roofer said that the metal is galvanized steel and will not rust. Any thoughts on this? The metal is not visible from the ground so I don't care but don't want to spend money to paint if it is unnecessary.
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Leonid Sapronov
Investor · Laurel, MD · Member since 2012 · 149 posts · 33 votes
8y
@Mike Reynolds
Mike, I need to replace the roof on this building (a small apt bldg):
I believe this is what they call a mansard or Dutch roof? My PM, who will be supervising the installation, suggested that we go with metal for longevity. Fair enough - we got some quotes and the price seems reasonable. He also suggested that rather than using metal on the steeper sections, we replace them with siding to save a little money. Do you think this is a good idea? Or should we just go with metal everywhere? Anything else to ask/request from the roofing contractor before they commence work?
Thank you so much for being an active member of the BP community!
1 Reply
Chris DesarroPro Member
Investor · East Liverpool, OH · Member since 2013 · 6 posts · 0 votes
8y
@Justin Stanfield What are pros and cons of metal roof on a 2 story rental
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