Los Angeles, CA · Member since 2009 · 717 posts · 50 votes
Hello, up until this point we have been sanding the floors down and then putting 3 coats of high gloss poly and it looks fine, but recently, I spoke with a designer who had suggested doing a dark walnut and satin finish. Anyone have success with the darker stain and/or what do you usually do that had the most success? Thank you! Btw, we are going for the modern look.
Flipper/Rehabber · Bakersfield, CA · Member since 2008 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
14y
The best color by far is NO stain color. Just use your finish to seal the floor. DONT use neutral. Its an added step and frankly not as good as straight finish. Screen between finishes 2-3-4 not 1 and 2. And use a 120-150 screen.
Oil base is better than water base all though water base drys faster. Oil gives a deeper look. And if using gloss looks a lot better. Although satin is a better choice on uneven floors. Problem with satin is that all finish starts out as gloss and then they add an additive to lessen the gloss so satin could flash on you which makes the floor look crappy.
It will take an extra cost however the HUGE added plus is that if you have a future repair or scratch to remove trying to match stain color is almost impossible without resanding the entire floor. And you only have so many resands before your sanding thru the nails.
If you have black marks from rusted nails, which adds character, youre SOL unless you bleach the floor which doesnt really help.
Flipper/Rehabber · Bakersfield, CA · Member since 2008 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
14y
The best color by far is NO stain color. Just use your finish to seal the floor. DONT use neutral. Its an added step and frankly not as good as straight finish. Screen between finishes 2-3-4 not 1 and 2. And use a 120-150 screen.
Oil base is better than water base all though water base drys faster. Oil gives a deeper look. And if using gloss looks a lot better. Although satin is a better choice on uneven floors. Problem with satin is that all finish starts out as gloss and then they add an additive to lessen the gloss so satin could flash on you which makes the floor look crappy.
It will take an extra cost however the HUGE added plus is that if you have a future repair or scratch to remove trying to match stain color is almost impossible without resanding the entire floor. And you only have so many resands before your sanding thru the nails.
If you have black marks from rusted nails, which adds character, youre SOL unless you bleach the floor which doesnt really help.
Flipper/Rehabber · Bakersfield, CA · Member since 2008 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
14y
Yes on your satin DONT shake the can, stir it. Shaking will create bubbles which when applying will burst during drying and look like chick pocks.
Also on your finish try and only buy it in quarts not gallons. On your lambwool applicator 18 inches is the best. Make sure you stick the wool in one of the quart cans with a fair amount of paint thinner inside so it doesnt harden. Youll be able to use it several times. Just ring it out before applying the finsih.
Also between coats youll vacuum up the dust. Make certain you empty the vacuum out each time as dust is combustible.
Residential Real Estate Broker · Denver, CO · Member since 2010 · 22 posts · 7 votes
14y
Im with Michael. If your planning on flipping the house the goal is to appeal to the greatest amount of buyers. Adding a stain to your floor might look great but it also gets nichey. Some people may love them, while other people may not. Especially if the potential buyers have dogs, they may think the dogs could scratch up the floors.
Real Estate Investor · Virginia, DC &, MD · Member since 2008 · 261 posts · 71 votes
14y
We have been using Minwax Special Walnut lately. It is dark but that is in-style in the DC area plus most design magazines are featuring dark floors. It covers up water marks and stains and looks very rich. It might not be the most practical finish for dogs in the long run but we finish homes with the sale in mind not potential owner issues down the road.
Flipper/Rehabber · Bakersfield, CA · Member since 2008 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
14y
The problem with minwax is that it's not a "hardwood floor stain" although the can says for hardwood floors. You will want to use dura seal walnut which is minwax's commercial hardwood floor stain. For two issues. 1) dry time 2) evaporations.
Real Estate Investor · Virginia, DC &, MD · Member since 2008 · 261 posts · 71 votes
14y
Originally posted by Michael Quarles:
The problem with minwax is that it's not a "hardwood floor stain" although the can says for hardwood floors. You will want to use dura seal walnut which is minwax's commercial hardwood floor stain. For two issues. 1) dry time 2) evaporations.
Real Estate Investor · Virginia, DC &, MD · Member since 2008 · 261 posts · 71 votes
14y
Originally posted by Matt Horwitz:
I have my floors sanded and stained in a rental property. They have held up great for about 3 years, but now look like they need another coat.
Do you guys always go this route as opposed to carpet? Is the wood-look always the most cost effective?
Wood floors always look richer and more upscale in rentals but are not as durable as tile. If you go with wood, I would use a natural finish which is no stain, just a low gloss clear. It will be the most durable as the natural finish is least likely to show wear and tear.
As for carpet, assume you will need to replace it every rental cycle.