Sanford, FL · Member since 2013 · 12 posts · 0 votes
We have a pile of 3/4 inch White Pine that we would like to glue down to a concrete floor of a house that we are in the process of flipping. I have been told by a few that it can't be done...that it is a nail down product. I have also been told by just as many people that it can be done with no problems. I'm wanting to hear more opinions before I do and find out what glue would be the best to use if I do it.
Real Estate Professional · West Palm Beach, FL · Member since 2012 · 23k+ posts · 13k+ votes
13y
As long the concrete is clean, dust free, the proper Liquid Nails would do it. The plywood can't be bowed though, and I'd still do some nailing on each one.
Real Estate Professional · West Palm Beach, FL · Member since 2012 · 23k+ posts · 13k+ votes
13y
As long the concrete is clean, dust free, the proper Liquid Nails would do it. The plywood can't be bowed though, and I'd still do some nailing on each one.
Rental Property Investor · Mercer Island, WA · Member since 2008 · 22k+ posts · 14k+ votes
13y
I think you mean you have 3/4 tongue-and-groove white pine flooring. And its real wood, not engineered or laminate.
No, that cannot be glued down. Especially in a damp area like FL. It will cup upward very quickly because of moisture coming in through the concrete. Concrete is porous. The proper way to do this is to put down a layer of plastic sheeting as a water barrier. Then, put "screeds" in perpendicular to how you want to run the flooring. Shoot that into the concrete with one of the 22 powered nail guns. Then, lay the flooring by nailing it to the screeds.
Contractor · Anchorage, AK · Member since 2012 · 351 posts · 196 votes
13y
I agree with John. Need to determine if raising the floor height by several inches will be a problem. If not, I would put down 6 mil vapor barrier, run nailers as John suggested, and install foam panels between nailers so entire floor is supported.
Sanford, FL · Member since 2013 · 12 posts · 0 votes
13y
Yes, it is tongue and groove white pine...real wood. The concrete is above grade and chalky...very dry. I've been looking into glue that has a moister barrier in it. I was trying to avoid doing a sub floor because of cost and height of the floor. Has anyone done this successfully?
Laurel, MD · Member since 2013 · 82 posts · 21 votes
12y
I'm probably too late, @bonnie b. but concert should not be in direct contact with untreated wood. The cement from the concrete will cause wood to dry rot. So the suggestion to use a vapor barrier was a good one for this reason as we'll. Let us know what you decided to do.
Investor · Denver, CO · Member since 2014 · 84 posts · 52 votes
12y
Definitely do not go directly over the concrete. Concrete is porous and will have moisture regardless if it feels dry at this moment. The product will fail in short time. Just put down a moisture barrier and then some sheathing (I normally rip pieces of plywood into 2' x 8' strips and run them perpendicular to my flooring) so you can nail the floor into the sheathing. You don't have to use a powder nailer to attach the sheathing/underlayment to the concrete (in essence a "floating" floor) but that is also a possibility. @Jon Holdman was pretty dead on with his advice.