For new construction, I'd expect to pay between $330-350 per fixture for CPVC. (Range depends on how far the line has to run, second story vs. first story, etc.)
For simple trim-out jobs, I'd expect to pay between $40-60 per fixture with parts and labor included. (By "parts" I mean "Small Parts" and not the fixture itself)... now that's assuming I'm giving him a decent amount of work here, not just asking him to come out and do a single fixture.
Add more in if I ask them to replace cut-off valves and P-traps... you get closer to maybe $150-250 per fixture, parts and labor, if we're talking about galvanized... if it's PVC it'll be cheaper. (Galvy is just harder to work with.)
Typically, my plumber will send out 2-4 of his crew and knock most anything out in a day, day and a half tops.
Plumbing isn't something I'd be comfortable having done by the hour. It also isn't something I feel comfortable bidding by the job to someone who doesn't do it all day long - there's too many ways to cut corners and get slopped with plumbing, even something as simple as installing a sink faucet.
I'd rather rely on someone who has done 100's of installs and can do it blindfolded in his sleep with his hands tied behind his back than someone who has to 'remind himself' the particulars every time.
As a contractor, I can tell you I make far more money when I give a bid than when I work by the hour, (T&M). That being said, I am willing to do both, depending on the person. I would not tell your plumber that you plan on doing finish work yourself, if you are paying him by the hour.
If you plan to pull permits on the job, expect that both the rough and the finish work will need to be done by a licensed plumber. If you don't pull permits, then it's up to you how you want to split it up, but I agree that a good handyman is a much better option for finish work. In fact, if I don't have to pull permits, I'll use my handyman for all plumbing and electrical finish work.
As for hourly or per-job, it boils down to how much you understand the work being done. Can you personally estimate how long it should take, whether he's keeping on schedule and whether he's cutting corners but dragging out the time. If you have this knowledge, and if you can manage the contractor well, you'll likely pay less if you go hourly. But, if you don't have the ability to estimate how long a job should take, whether the contractor is staying on schedule and/or you don't have the time to oversee the work, then get bids for the entire job.
Personally, I don't like to pay for any work on an hourly basis -- with the possible exception of punch-work, since that's one part of construction I understand pretty well... :D
Thanks everyone. The manager I have in place is doing a great job.We have known each other since middle school.
The plumber is a friend of his.He owns his own company and is a master plumber with over 40 years experience. He is doing the walk through and one of his employees would complete.
These units 15 of them have tenants living in them.The complaints are leaky faucets,to pipes on the condenser line leaking,to when they flush the toilet upstairs there is a leak above the kitchen etc.
There is only one unit out of the 5 vacant where they went in and took out some copper.I can have my PM watch the whole job and make sure they stay on task. The other 4 units just need carpet and paint and 1 or 2 light fixtures replaced to get rent ready again.
I bought it from a landlord that let things go and mentally checked out.We are working to correct the maintenance issues and retain the good tenants. The rest that are non paying or trying to negotiate below market rents from their existing lease will be evicted.I am disposessory filing on Monday and have already given notice to evict if they do not pay.
From what I am told Georgia is a pro landlord state so that is good.
Yes the little items I could maybe do some myself but a plumber can do faster and do more things at once.I would buy the parts and just pay for the labor.
I tell the contractors before they come out that I don't want to waste their time and I am looking for a great price and I stress over and over that this is not a retail job but an investor job.
Personally... I prefer to let the plumber do both the rough-in and the finish work. The job gets done faster, with less oversight, fewer material headaches, and I don't feel the need to go back and double check every connection like I do with a handyman - no matter how good he seems to be.
My plumber will, for a fairly nominal fee, provide labor and small parts for hookups. This saves me the headache of having to worry about connection hoses and whatnot, and the job just goes on complete autopilot from phone call to check signing.
For new construction, I'd expect to pay between $330-350 per fixture for CPVC. (Range depends on how far the line has to run, second story vs. first story, etc.)
For simple trim-out jobs, I'd expect to pay between $40-60 per fixture with parts and labor included. (By "parts" I mean "Small Parts" and not the fixture itself)... now that's assuming I'm giving him a decent amount of work here, not just asking him to come out and do a single fixture.
Add more in if I ask them to replace cut-off valves and P-traps... you get closer to maybe $150-250 per fixture, parts and labor, if we're talking about galvanized... if it's PVC it'll be cheaper. (Galvy is just harder to work with.)
Typically, my plumber will send out 2-4 of his crew and knock most anything out in a day, day and a half tops.
Plumbing isn't something I'd be comfortable having done by the hour. It also isn't something I feel comfortable bidding by the job to someone who doesn't do it all day long - there's too many ways to cut corners and get slopped with plumbing, even something as simple as installing a sink faucet.
I'd rather rely on someone who has done 100's of installs and can do it blindfolded in his sleep with his hands tied behind his back than someone who has to 'remind himself' the particulars every time.
Aaron what does your plumber charge?? I have seen quotes at 90 to 100 an hour so far.
As a testimonial, I've seen Aaron's plumbing quotes, and they're great...his crew will be doing a bunch of work for us and some other investors we rehab for in the near future...
Had the owner of the company come through on Wednesday.Master plumber with over 40 years experience.
Very nice and professional.While were there fixed too emergencies.One the p trap was leaking under the kitchen sink and water was going everywhere.
Another unit water was coming down from the upstairs through the kitchen.That ended up being the metal line going into toilet tank.Someone wrench tightened the line going into the tank when they were only supposed to hand tighten.This caused a crack in the plastic seal and the water then started pouring out.The plumbers fixed it.
When he came out on Wednesday he looked at 2 units.He said to do it right he needs to have 2 of his plumbers out there and go unit by unit.They will check all fixtures kitchen,bath,washer,etc. and do compression test. They also have a fiber optic camera where they take apart the shower fixture and insert the camera and can see behind the walls without tearing them up and can check for leaks.
The rate is around 90 an hour for the 2 plumbers doing the test.Each unit the owner said would take about 30 minutes to inspect.If issues need to be corrected and fixed it would take longer.
I really want to get these plumbing issues under control.I don't think the fee is that bad but wanted additional input.Had a great gut feeling meeting them just don't want to blow up the budget too much.
I asked about the bigger opening toilet bowls to prevent clogging.He stated the bigger opening would help with excessive toilet paper and waste getting stuck but would not stop things such as toys,q-tips,tampons,etc. from clogging the line.
Seriously, holler at me and let me give my plumber a crack at it. If the job is anywhere in Metro Atlanta or surrounding areas I'm sure he'd be up to try and tackle it. He's a licensed master plumber as well and does plenty of commercial work.