Real Estate Agent · Baltimore, MD · Member since 2014 · 215 posts · 123 votes
So I am curious, a friend of mine and I are working on a flip and some of the rooms have wallpaper all around. One of the contractors we spoke to mentioned that it may be cheaper to just put drywall over top instead of removing the wallpaper. I would have imagined that removing the wallpaper would have been cheaper... @Ned Carey@Russell Brazil@J Scott Any thoughts? (Some pictures below)
Real Estate Agent · Washington, D.C. · Member since 2012 · 17k+ posts · 30k+ votes
10y
@Gabriel G. Removing wallpaper is kind of labor intensive, and it kind of sucks....but I think throwing drywall over top of it is going to cause more problems. The windows and doors wont line up depth wise with the new drywall, electrical outlets wont line up. I would just remove the wallpaper and repair the walls underneath it.
Real Estate Agent · Washington, D.C. · Member since 2012 · 17k+ posts · 30k+ votes
10y
@Gabriel G. Removing wallpaper is kind of labor intensive, and it kind of sucks....but I think throwing drywall over top of it is going to cause more problems. The windows and doors wont line up depth wise with the new drywall, electrical outlets wont line up. I would just remove the wallpaper and repair the walls underneath it.
Investor · West Monroe, LA · Member since 2015 · 15 posts · 9 votes
10y
Gabriel,
Been there, done that. Some things to remember.
If you try to remove the wallpaper.
1. What's under the wallpaper if you decide to remove it? Is it something that will look good prepped and painted.
2. Will what's under the wallpaper be significantly damaged during the removal and if so, that's time and money to repair. Skim coating the damage is easy enough but matching any existing texture is the tough part.
If you go the 1/4" drywall route
1.Number one question is if the existing trim work can stay in place or will need to be taken off to install the drywall
2. the electrical outlet boxes/faces will have to be moved out, the baseboards, moulding and door frames may need to be removed, trimmed and replaced to make it look good.
3. Old baseboard and crown moulding don't come off in one piece and will likely need to be replaced which will mean carpentry work and paint.
4. Would all in likely be more expensive and time consuming but will probably be a better product.
Like most things, there's no easy answer. Hope this helps and good luck.
Rental Property Investor · East Wenatchee, WA · Member since 2014 · 10k+ posts · 16k+ votes
10y
If the wallpaper is secure, I have had luck cleaning it, scratching it up a bit, priming and painting over it. Even blowing texture on it. Try a wall. Try removing some on an out of the way wall to see how adhered it is and what surprises to expect underneath. Chances are two more layers are under there. It may come off easily, but I doubt it. I would try and see.
@Gabriel G. is this a higher-end flip or bread and butter, blue collar first-time buyer type of house? That would affect my decision as well. Semper-Fi and thank you for your service!
Frederick, MD · Member since 2015 · 654 posts · 256 votes
10y
To address what @Justin Ouchley said about what's underneath.... given what I can see from the photos (i.e., the door, windows, railing, and vanity area), my guess is that this house was originally built or remodeled in the 80s or thereafter. A few telltale clues incline me to believe that it's original construction and if so, the surface underneath is likely to be 1/2" drywall (as opposed to an older home with plaster).
You can check for sure by simply removing an electrical plug or switch face plate and looking at the wall material.
As @Russell Brazil pointed out, when overlaying the walls, there is a lot to consider in how the additional thickness impacts the existing trim. Addressing the switches and outlets is a piece of cake and can be done for just a few dollars (using box extensions and/or just using longer screws). As for your preference in how butting drywall up against existing trim vs. removing and replacing it (and adding 1/4" extensions) looks is a decision based on your preference and as @Gabriel G.!
Real Estate Agent · Baltimore, MD · Member since 2014 · 215 posts · 123 votes
10y
@Justin Ouchley thanks for the feedback. Underneath is drywall... Not sure how prepped it is but there isnt any texture. We will definetly need to redo all the trimwork and outlets. It seems like it would just be a headache.
@Steve Vaughan thanks and oorah to you my friend! This is a blue collar home, nothing high end.
Investor · Baltimore, MD · Member since 2008 · 17k+ posts · 13k+ votes
10y
Or you might even consider just painting over the wallpaper. This is where knowing your market helps. What level of finishes will you end buyer expect? We just did a very nice rental renovation with granite counter tops but we painted over the wallpaper in the closet.
My guess looking at the pictures is. finding a pro to remove the wallpaper is the best choice.
Investor · Northeast, NE · Member since 2015 · 258 posts · 83 votes
10y
I question of the day is,,,How was the paper put up there to start with? IF it was ''sized' ( a special undercoating) it will come off the wall readily,,if not all bets are off.
Is there an inconspicuous spot to see how it was installed. Is it paper backed or a type of slick or foil type? those are harder. Use a scoring tool and a hot wet wash cloth/sponge, it may come right off.
Once you find a easy way get a crew of friends family and who ever else you can,,,rent a steamer if necessary and do it yourself. What your contractor is saying he really doesnt want to do it. IF it is a real bugger, comes off in small piees and fights you every square inch,,,and trim doesnt allow the 1/4" growth in depth,,,then MAYBE, JUST MAYBE, cut the drywall off the wall and redrywall from scratch. It gives you the added chance to add and or replace electric and plumbing lines. If there is old plumbing in any of those walls the answer is easy,,,always replace. If replacing drywall then saving trim is questionable. If you do take trim off and reuse,,,pull the nails thru the back side. Otherwise it will tear up and ruin if removed thru front. A pinchers or vice grips works best!!
Real Estate Agent · Baltimore, MD · Member since 2014 · 215 posts · 123 votes
10y
@Christian Bors we are removing it. It's been a pain but we figured it was the best route to take. I'll make sure to post some pictures once we get everything done.
Investor · Jonesboro, AR · Member since 2015 · 241 posts · 132 votes
10y
I'm surprised no one mention replacing the Sheetrock, that is usually my approach. It gives me a chance to check the wiring, termite damage, proper insulation, plumbing, ect... I hate taking off wallpaper and the work involved in getting it prepped.
Real Estate Agent · Holmdel, NJ · Member since 2014 · 38 posts · 11 votes
10y
i would try steaming it and seeing how easy it comes off. Good wallpaper will be a real pain and come off in small pieces, leaving lots of prep work for you if you have a lot of scraping to do, If that is the case just replacing the Sheetrock is easier and cleaner result. If it comes off easy the you're in luck. Best of luck
Real Estate Agent · Mechanicsburg, PA · Member since 2014 · 529 posts · 217 votes
10y
@Gabriel G. I just tackled a wall paper removal job. In one of the rooms there was actually 3 layers of wall paper. Anyways, I thought the task wasn't as bad as people describe. Buy a wall paper cutter and make small circles (the more cuts the easier). Second, use a garden pump and spray hot water with laundry detergent. Find a corner and start pealing. Maybe I was fortunate, but I really didn't think it was that difficult.
Now I will say, on another house I removed the wall paper but the glue didn't come off. We didn't use the technic described above. Anyways. we ended up hanging 1/4 inch drywall on top. This project was on an interior wall that did not have any windows or joints that were a concern. Looking back, I think if I would have used the hot water/detergent mix with the wall paper cutter the glue would have come off. I didn't know about that trick the first time I removed the wall paper.
Definitely upload photos with the results. Good luck!
I'm surprised no one mention replacing the Sheetrock, that is usually my approach. It gives me a chance to check the wiring, termite damage, proper insulation, plumbing, ect... I hate taking off wallpaper and the work involved in getting it prepped.
That's what I would ideally do, great idea for fixing anything before anything major goes south!
Plainwell, MI · Member since 2015 · 28 posts · 10 votes
10y
I do not think I would go the drywall route.
I have removed quite a bit of Wall Paper and this is what I do.
There is a tool that you can pick up at HD here, and with it you run a section of the wall paper. This pretty much scores the paper. Now with a warm bucket of water add fabric softener, I usually do 4:1 and start to wash the paper. The fabric softeners will act as a de-bonding agent and will release the paper from the wall. Now with a putty knife, the paper will come right off.
I have removed quite a bit of Wall Paper and this is what I do.
There is a tool that you can pick up at HD here, and with it you run a section of the wall paper. This pretty much scores the paper. Now with a warm bucket of water add fabric softener, I usually do 4:1 and start to wash the paper. The fabric softeners will act as a de-bonding agent and will release the paper from the wall. Now with a putty knife, the paper will come right off.
Try it on a small section first
Tried that sometime back. Not sure if the wallpaper was hung with SuperGlue, epoxy, or what (yes, I'm being sarcastic) but wound up tearing the drywall out and replacing it - too badly damaged by the removal attempts - or skim-coating what could be salvaged.
Grandview, MO · Member since 2014 · 7 posts · 2 votes
10y
Lots of good comments. There are definitely pros and cons to handling the situation. Best scenario--it just pulls off. Sand/remove any paste, prime well (very important unless you want the finish paint to develop leprosy--my term for crackling of the finish due to unremoved paste). Next best--remove with minimal mess and effort with garden sprayer and hot water w/ dish soap or commercial product like DIF. Contain the mess with plastic and/or drops. I put masking paper on the base to direct moisture off the trim and onto the drop cloths. Use old towels to sop up puddles. If the top layer is vinyl coated, try pulling it off after first dowsing or score it if it won't budge. BTW: string cloth and grass cloth are very good candidates to remove. They soak up the liquid and come off in sheets. If it's foil or very tight vinyl coated, I say go to Plan B and prime it and paint it. No sense destroying the wall just to say you got it off. In the old days, plaster walls were papered before painting. If you choose to strip the paper and the sheet rock gets damaged, prime it with Gardz then skim coat it. It's effective like Kilz or pigmented shellac without the brain damage. Veneering with quarter inch or replacing completely are last options unless you're doing a complete rehab.
Madison, WI · Member since 2014 · 46 posts · 26 votes
10y
Gardz is a great product to use after removing wallpaper. As far as I know, it is the only water-based product that will not reactivate any paste remnants left on the wall. It does a great job at sealing up the powder on damaged drywall, and giving you a solid surface to hold your mud/spackle. Use it again to spot prime your patches and you are sealed.
The only down side is that it dries clear. It won't hide any ugliness in he wall. As long as you have a topcoat with good coverage, you are all set!