Santa Ana, CA 路 Member since 2016 路 29 posts 路 19 votes
Good morning BiggerPocketers,
I have a degree in construction management and currently a construction Project Manager for a drywall company. I have done projects anywhere from a 42 stories luxury high rise, luxury retails, hospitals, school, and to smaller tenant improvements.
Please feel free to ask away any questions you guys have regarding to construction such as rehabilitation, scheduling, framing, drywall, taping, ceilings, soffits, material prices, budgeting, and/or anything. I will answer your questions to my best knowledge and if I do not know the answer, I will find out.
This is my attempt in giving back to the BiggerPockets community since I have learned so much from here. Hopefully I be able to help this community out in answering questions.
Feel free to connect with me and ask private questions if you don't like to post your questions here.
Investor 路 Riverside, CA 路 Member since 2014 路 239 posts 路 177 votes
9y
Julie Marquez sorry to poke my nose into your question, but as for drywall, honestly you might run into a bit of trouble with a dry waller not wanting to mud the walls/ceiling for as cheap as you'd like purely based off the reason that they didn't install it, but there definitely is the exception. One reason I say that is, if you install it with many dips, bumps, holes etc, they will have to come back and do multiple coats of mud, thus taking away from their profit. Once again though, there's definitelyyyy the exception. As for "green board", you always hang a sheet behind kitchen/bath vanities, and in showers, the preferred method is to use Hardi backer or mud float, not drywall. But that's just my opinion. All of our showers are with Hardi backer which is readily available at Lowes, Home Depot etc. Back to drywall though, I never deter anatomy from attempting drywall themselves at some point, because it's SUCH a good lesson and trade to know. But if it's on a large scale, sub it out. Hope that helps
Rental Property Investor 路 Phoenix, AZ 路 Member since 2015 路 222 posts 路 126 votes
9y
@Marelyn Valdes -- You bring up some really valid points. By not having them pay the utilities, there is zero incentive to conserve electricity or water. Solid point. Thank you so much for your response!
@Taye N. -- The utilities are running the current landlord $229 a month, so if it costs only $8k, that's almost three years worth of utilities. In the end, asking for a concession up front could help offset if we move forward with the complex. Thank you so very much!
Investor 路 Houston, TX 路 Member since 2016 路 13 posts 路 0 votes
9y
Darren,
Thank you for your availability. I am currently doing a bathroom remodel in a tenant occupied property. I read on this thread about progress payments....what would a typical schedule with % look like?
Saint Petersburg, FL 路 Member since 2015 路 22 posts 路 7 votes
9y
I have a house under contract that has sheathing rot (underneath asbestos siding) due to an improperly built room addition that left exposure to moisture. Inspector took a look at it and said it needed a demolition. It was maybe 50-100sqft of rotted sheathing with possible rot to the frame.
Do you have any ballpark idea of what that would cost to fix?
Investor 路 Skagit County, WA 路 Member since 2016 路 1k+ posts 路 807 votes
9y
@Darren D. Ngo Hello from a fellow CM major and employed for a large general contractor in the Seattle area. We are about to close on our first be rehab project house. I've never done drywall work before, but my husband and I are am handy. How much do you think I could do, versus hire it out. I was thinking that I could hang all the drywall, and hire out the taping, mudding, sanding? What level do they use in residential (3 or 4?). And what extent do you use green board in wet areas - just in the shower? How often do you have to use screws? Thanks for being a resource!
Investor 路 Riverside, CA 路 Member since 2014 路 239 posts 路 177 votes
9y
Julie Marquez sorry to poke my nose into your question, but as for drywall, honestly you might run into a bit of trouble with a dry waller not wanting to mud the walls/ceiling for as cheap as you'd like purely based off the reason that they didn't install it, but there definitely is the exception. One reason I say that is, if you install it with many dips, bumps, holes etc, they will have to come back and do multiple coats of mud, thus taking away from their profit. Once again though, there's definitelyyyy the exception. As for "green board", you always hang a sheet behind kitchen/bath vanities, and in showers, the preferred method is to use Hardi backer or mud float, not drywall. But that's just my opinion. All of our showers are with Hardi backer which is readily available at Lowes, Home Depot etc. Back to drywall though, I never deter anatomy from attempting drywall themselves at some point, because it's SUCH a good lesson and trade to know. But if it's on a large scale, sub it out. Hope that helps
I have a house under contract that has sheathing rot (underneath asbestos siding) due to an improperly built room addition that left exposure to moisture. Inspector took a look at it and said it needed a demolition. It was maybe 50-100sqft of rotted sheathing with possible rot to the frame.
Do you have any ballpark idea of what that would cost to fix?
If you going to touch the Asbestos you going to have to hire a specialty contractor that is trained to remove Asbestos. Asbestos if you going leave it and not damage is safe.
1. I recommend you look up the EPA on lead paint too. Once the Asbestos is removed you can get a better assessment of how much it would cost. I think it a bit pricey for removal. But stucco and framing is not too bad. I hope I gave you an idea on which direction to take.
Julie Marquez sorry to poke my nose into your question, but as for drywall, honestly you might run into a bit of trouble with a dry waller not wanting to mud the walls/ceiling for as cheap as you'd like purely based off the reason that they didn't install it, but there definitely is the exception. One reason I say that is, if you install it with many dips, bumps, holes etc, they will have to come back and do multiple coats of mud, thus taking away from their profit. Once again though, there's definitelyyyy the exception. As for "green board", you always hang a sheet behind kitchen/bath vanities, and in showers, the preferred method is to use Hardi backer or mud float, not drywall. But that's just my opinion. All of our showers are with Hardi backer which is readily available at Lowes, Home Depot etc. Back to drywall though, I never deter anatomy from attempting drywall themselves at some point, because it's SUCH a good lesson and trade to know. But if it's on a large scale, sub it out. Hope that helps
One thing is the Green and Purple board is not allowed in shower or tub area according to the California building code. You can use hardie backer, Glassroc, wonderboard type. But Green and Purple are not allowed.
Santa Ana, CA 路 Member since 2016 路 29 posts 路 19 votes
9y
Julie Marquez an average drywall carpernter can hang 800 sf of drywall a day. That is 20 sheets of drywall. I know some could hang 2000 sf a day. Which is 50 sheets. A sheet of drywall weight around 90 lb. If you guys think you can beat the average carpenter production, then it say it is worth it to do yourself, if not then you should sub it out to get it done faster.
Westminster, CA 路 Member since 2016 路 3 posts 路 1 vote
9y
Hi Darren!
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with the BP Community!
I am so ecstatic to see someone on this forum who's residing in pretty much the same vicinity! I am reading through your responses and keeping a lot of what you are saying in mind.
Greatly appreciate it, Darren!
Wishing you continued good fortune on all your present and future endeavors!
KyHa
Rental Property Investor 路 San Diego, CA 路 Member since 2016 路 37 posts 路 19 votes
9y
Hi Darren,
Your thread is awesome and super helpful. I'm looking at rebuild costs in the IE. What is your general estimate on cost/sq ft? With permit costs? Do you know of any contractors in the Palm Desert area?
Thanks in advance!!
Union City, CA 路 Member since 2016 路 5 posts 路 3 votes
9y
Hi Guys,
Do you guys do the work on your own investment properties or do you hire it out?
I am getting ready to start investing in rehabs and I'd like to be able to do the work myself and get some sweat equity. I don't have any experience though.
I've heard the saying work on your business not in your business. But I think I'd enjoy doing some of the work. Especially in the beginning when I'm taking it slow.
Do you think it is worth the trouble to pick up the skills to be able to do my own work?
Do you guys do the work on your own investment properties or do you hire it out?
I am getting ready to start investing in rehabs and I'd like to be able to do the work myself and get some sweat equity. I don't have any experience though.
I've heard the saying work on your business not in your business. But I think I'd enjoy doing some of the work. Especially in the beginning when I'm taking it slow.
Do you think it is worth the trouble to pick up the skills to be able to do my own work?
If you are starting out and have the skills and time.Yes, the key is time. You can save money doing the work yourself. But if you are running it as a business then you should have a team and think of ways to be more efficient. Is it worth your time to do drywall if you can pay someone 15 dollars an hour? Sure you will save on the cost but it most likely will take longer. The faster you flip the more money you make.
It is cost vs time.. But starting out and your resources are limited then yes do your own work.
I think doing your own work for the first time give you an idea of what it takes and the cost. It will help estimate better and understand the process.
I notice you are near me from Union City, feel free to reach out to me if you have any construction questions.