Investor · Philadelphia, PA · Member since 2015 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
9y
Tile is the best product. Preventing cracks requires proper installation. In many cases this means replacing subfloor to 3/4 inch plywood and level (additional labor and material cost). Other flooring products are more forgiving (cheaper) to install in those cases. If you have the right subfloor for tile, or are willing to replace what you have with what you need (plywood, hardibacker, additional labor), tile is the best product.
Search youtube and BP for installation tips, but the basics are:
-level, 3/4" subfloor - no movement (sometimes requires shimming or replacing joists)
-layer of hardibacker or cement board
-plan and play with your start/end points and layout with tiles before mixing any thinset/adhesive
-aim to avoid "skinny cuts". try to have as many whole tiles and half tiles as possible
-for floors: use a thinset (mortar based) product to adhere tiles to floor
-for walls: use the thinset OR pre-mixed glue adhesive to adhere tiles to wall
-after proper dry time, mix grout and apply to all seams. After grout has set for 10-15 minutes, lightly wipe tile surface to remove excess grout and fill in low spots/smooth out high spots
-after proper dry time, clean remaining grout haze from tile surface
-definitely apply grout sealer! Or use the grout product that has the sealer built in. Grout will stain without sealing every few years.
Tile is often additional work and cost. Most old properties don't have the right subfloor for it. If the tile you have is cracked, that is a good indication that it was installed incorrectly and/or the subfloor is too thin/has too much movement.
If this is a place you're going to have for some years, like a primary residence or one of your early buy-and-hold'ers, try and swing the tile. Because when done right tile will last forever. You can get nice tile for less than nice vinyl/laminate if you look for it. So if you are up for doing the work the material cost is not that bad compared to vinyl/laminate. And if you do a good job it will look and perform much better in the long term.
Investor · Louisville, KY · Member since 2011 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
9y
@Shawn Turner - in order to answer your question you'd need to provide a lot more information. What kind of property is it (rental, rehab, personal residence, etc.)? What do you plan to do with it? What kind of neighborhood is it in? Do you have a photo of the cracked tile you can upload?
Rental Property Investor · Orlando, FL · Member since 2016 · 463 posts · 220 votes
9y
I like tile in the bathroom and kitchen- it looks nice, it lasts forever and can be quite cost-effective if you buy right. Lots of sales right now at the big box stores.
Vinyl plank like Allure is gaining popularity. I haven't used it yet, but I really like the look and feel of it. I think I'll wait and see how long it lasts for others before jumping in.
Investor · Philadelphia, PA · Member since 2015 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes
9y
Tile is the best product. Preventing cracks requires proper installation. In many cases this means replacing subfloor to 3/4 inch plywood and level (additional labor and material cost). Other flooring products are more forgiving (cheaper) to install in those cases. If you have the right subfloor for tile, or are willing to replace what you have with what you need (plywood, hardibacker, additional labor), tile is the best product.
Search youtube and BP for installation tips, but the basics are:
-level, 3/4" subfloor - no movement (sometimes requires shimming or replacing joists)
-layer of hardibacker or cement board
-plan and play with your start/end points and layout with tiles before mixing any thinset/adhesive
-aim to avoid "skinny cuts". try to have as many whole tiles and half tiles as possible
-for floors: use a thinset (mortar based) product to adhere tiles to floor
-for walls: use the thinset OR pre-mixed glue adhesive to adhere tiles to wall
-after proper dry time, mix grout and apply to all seams. After grout has set for 10-15 minutes, lightly wipe tile surface to remove excess grout and fill in low spots/smooth out high spots
-after proper dry time, clean remaining grout haze from tile surface
-definitely apply grout sealer! Or use the grout product that has the sealer built in. Grout will stain without sealing every few years.
Tile is often additional work and cost. Most old properties don't have the right subfloor for it. If the tile you have is cracked, that is a good indication that it was installed incorrectly and/or the subfloor is too thin/has too much movement.
If this is a place you're going to have for some years, like a primary residence or one of your early buy-and-hold'ers, try and swing the tile. Because when done right tile will last forever. You can get nice tile for less than nice vinyl/laminate if you look for it. So if you are up for doing the work the material cost is not that bad compared to vinyl/laminate. And if you do a good job it will look and perform much better in the long term.
Medford, OR · Member since 2016 · 114 posts · 70 votes
9y
Shawn,
I am not a fan of tile. Don,t like the grout issues down the road. Discoloring and staining.
We do a lot of high end remodels and builds. Just recently put a LVT in a basement that is off a pool area, this product is 100% waterproof. Luxury vinyl tile. The one we put in looks just like wood, we are fans. Another product we use in most of our bathrooms is marmoleum, a little on the spendy side but it lasts. The color and pattern selections make it easy to design with.
North Central, IA · Member since 2016 · 13 posts · 3 votes
9y
I think the lifetime of tile for just a little more is worth it. It looks and feels more expensive and luxurious and I use a dark grout to prevent staining. This is a tile job I put in last summer. I don't think you can get this kind of an effect with laminate or vinyl flooring.
Landlord/Mentor · Baltimore, MD · Member since 2011 · 96 posts · 97 votes
9y
One piece of sheet vinyl for a bathroom floor if it is a rental. That way you do't have to worry about water running through the cracks if water gets on the floor. Never use sticky tiles! If you are doing a retail job- tile.
Investor · Northeast, NE · Member since 2015 · 258 posts · 83 votes
9y
You or no one else spoke to this issue. Span, size, and spacing of the floor joists? You have movement if tile is cracking.
Have heard on other boards the magic thickness of subfloor is AT LEAST 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" is much better. That does not include old wood flooring underneath NOR the cement board underlayment. Also many use mastic where it should be thin set,,,and back buttering tiles required.
I worked in a store that had concrete floors with tile over. Knew the guy well whose job it was to chip out broken tile and replace. NOT a real fun job. This guy was chipping out the SAME tile several times a week,,,sometimes it didnt last a day. I asked why,,,he said there is no base under it,,,the concrete had turned to dust. Would have been better to cut it all the way down and repour a base first,,,nope,,,stupid corporate minds said its cheaper to replace tiles again and again. moral of story,,,no base,,,no intact tile!!!!
Investor · Sewickley, PA · Member since 2017 · 59 posts · 32 votes
9y
We have a duplex with a tiled bath floor on one side and allure grip strip on the other, both installed by us. Currently allure is holding up better. Due to the wood subfloor, the bathroom floors have a little give to them and one of the small tiles is cracked. not a big enough deal to replace (2 inch tile) but knowing how difficult it is to stabilize old wood floors with the seasonal temperature/humidity changes in our area...we'll be doing allure in the future.
We have a duplex with a tiled bath floor on one side and allure grip strip on the other, both installed by us. Currently allure is holding up better. Due to the wood subfloor, the bathroom floors have a little give to them and one of the small tiles is cracked. not a big enough deal to replace (2 inch tile) but knowing how difficult it is to stabilize old wood floors with the seasonal temperature/humidity changes in our area...we'll be doing allure in the future.
Thats one reason to install a crack isolation membrane before tiling.
Investor · Sewickley, PA · Member since 2017 · 59 posts · 32 votes
9y
yes, i love those membranes! at the time of tiling that floor we didn't know of them yet. What brand is your favorite? i have used the orange one with the little square holes...kerdi? but it was tough going with the mortar.
Here are a few sources to look into. Schluter seems to be the Cadillac model and has made it into the big box stores. I have not worked with any listed below personally but only spec'd them on projects. I can't give you any info on workability. My Custom Building Products sales rep is always touching base with me and they seem to have a lot of info on there site. I would browse this site. All mfrs work about the same whether its a sheet good or rubberized mastic system. Schluter seems to have a better complete line of trim accessories than others.
Peoria, IL · Member since 2011 · 365 posts · 182 votes
9y
Like others have said:
1) Do not use laminate in a bathroom ever.
2) Tile is the best most durable choice IF you have proper subfloor.
Proper subfloor on tile is 3/4 T&G plywwod with 1/2 cement board. (or equivalent)
Something less than that might work, but it might not.
If you have the budget to do the subfloor, go title.
If you don't go vinyl.
Vinyl comes in many forms, but the in one right now is the luxury vinyl plank tile.
The thicker click together version at HD is 100% waterproof and gets good reviews on these forums.