Most of the east side quads I run don't pass FHA self-sufficiency on paper, since it's based on the appraiser's rent numbers and not what I think I can get. For those of you who got one through, what made the difference? Seller credits for a rate buydown, appraisers coming in with higher rents than you expected, buying under list, or something else?
My lender originally suggested conventional 5% for both of our deals, and from what I understand conventional doesn't have the self-sufficiency test. The extra 1.5% down hurts with only $40-50K between us, but it might open up way more properties. On your first 3-4 unit, did you go FHA or conventional, and would you make the same call again?
Benjamin, the self-sufficiency test knocks out a lot of 3-4 unit FHA deals, so you're not alone. On FHA, roughly 75% of the appraiser's market rent for all the units (including the one you'll live in) has to cover the full PITI, and the appraiser's rent number usually comes in more conservative than the listing pro forma. Run that test yourself before you offer, using conservative rents and real tax and insurance quotes, and ask your lender to look at rent comps early so the appraisal isn't the first time you find out.
Conventional is worth a serious look here. Fannie Mae allows 5% down on owner-occupied 2-4 unit purchases, and there's no self-sufficiency test. Instead the lender counts a portion of the rent from the other units toward your income for DTI, and you should expect a reserve requirement. Conventional mortgage insurance can also come off once you build enough equity, while FHA MIP with under 10% down stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance. The tradeoffs are that conventional pricing is more credit sensitive and the extra 1.5% down adds up on a quad.
With $40-50k between you and your partner, I'd have a lender run both options side by side on an actual property, including closing costs and reserves, before you commit to one path.
Benjamin, the self-sufficiency test knocks out a lot of 3-4 unit FHA deals, so you're not alone. On FHA, roughly 75% of the appraiser's market rent for all the units (including the one you'll live in) has to cover the full PITI, and the appraiser's rent number usually comes in more conservative than the listing pro forma. Run that test yourself before you offer, using conservative rents and real tax and insurance quotes, and ask your lender to look at rent comps early so the appraisal isn't the first time you find out.
Conventional is worth a serious look here. Fannie Mae allows 5% down on owner-occupied 2-4 unit purchases, and there's no self-sufficiency test. Instead the lender counts a portion of the rent from the other units toward your income for DTI, and you should expect a reserve requirement. Conventional mortgage insurance can also come off once you build enough equity, while FHA MIP with under 10% down stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance. The tradeoffs are that conventional pricing is more credit sensitive and the extra 1.5% down adds up on a quad.
With $40-50k between you and your partner, I'd have a lender run both options side by side on an actual property, including closing costs and reserves, before you commit to one path.
I really appreciate you laying that out Devin. The appraiser's rent coming in under the listing pro forma probably explains why so many quads looked close but didn't pass. I'll start running the test myself with conservative rents and real tax and insurance quotes before offering. Is asking the lender to look at rent comps something most will do before you're under contract?
Go conventional if you can stretch the extra 1.5% down. No self-sufficiency test, and PMI can drop off once you hit 20% equity, while FHA MIP under 10% down sticks for the life of the loan. The differrence is usually which quads you can even buy, not just the payment. Run both options on the same quad with real taxes and insurance before you offer. Hope this helps.
Awesome, thanks Noah, that's a great way to look at it. We've been stuck on FHA because of the lower down payment, but if conventional opens up quads that actually work, the extra 1.5% is probably worth it. We'll run both on the same property with real taxes and insurance before offering.
Benjamin, self-sufficiency is where a lot of quads die on FHA. The test uses 75% of the appraiser's market rent for all four units, including the one you live in, and that has to cover the full payment with taxes, insurance and MIP. So the things that actually move it are a lower price, lower taxes or insurance, or a rate buydown with seller credits. Buying under list usually helps more than anything else because it shrinks the whole payment. You can't really count on the appraiser coming in with higher rents.
Conventional at 5% down is a fair call when the numbers just don't pass. No self-sufficiency test, and the mortgage insurance can come off later, which FHA usually doesn't do. The extra down payment hurts, but it might beat chasing quads that never qualify. Just make sure you both keep enough in reserves after closing.
Happy to run both options on a real property with you and your brother. Give me a call, my number's in my signature below.
Thanks very much Ryan, really good advice. Negotiating under list and using seller credits toward a rate buydown is a much better strategy than relying on the appraiser's rent numbers. The point on reserves is well taken too, especially since we're planning a second purchase after this one. I'll give you a call once we have a property in Cincinnati so we can run both options together with my brother.
You could do a rate buy down, try to get lower insurance - there's a couple levers to pull. If you're far off, then conventional could be the way to go.
I'd explore negotiating seller credits toward closing costs. While they can't cover your down payment directly, they can help preserve cash and offset some of that additional 1.5% you'd need for conventional.
I also like to underwrite these deals conservatively upfront, using realistic rents, taxes, insurance, and financing costs before my clients even make an offer. Saves everyone a lot of headaches.
One other strategy worth exploring is a single family home with an ADU. Depending on the property and zoning, it may qualify as a 1 unit property, potentially allowing as little as 3% down with conventional financing. Could be another way to house hack without tying up as much capital.
Lots of ways to approach this beyond just FHA vs. conventional!
Appreciate this Amber, lots of really good ideas here. Using seller credits to cover closing costs and hold onto cash for the extra 1.5% is smart, and I like the approach of underwriting conservatively before even making an offer.
The SFH with an ADU idea is something I hadn't thought about at all. Getting in with as little as 3% down would leave us a lot more cash for the second deal. Do you know if there's anything specific to look for to make sure it qualifies as a 1 unit, or is that mostly a zoning and appraisal question? I'll start looking into what that looks like in Cincinnati.
It's a zoning thing so I would go on your appraisers website for the county when you find a property you like to see if it's single + adu or if you're working with an agent just tell them you want a single fam + ADU and it needs to be zoned that way. Shoot me a DM if you want to walk through it!
Everyone covered the self sufficiency side really well, so I'll add something on the two deal plan. With $40 to 50K between you, the cash you keep after the first closing is what sets up the second one, so it's worth mapping out both purchases before picking a program instead of deciding deal by deal. Owner occupied financing expects you to live in the property for about a year, so the timing of who lives where and when you move into the next one matters as much as FHA vs conventional. Both of my househacks I did the 5% conventional route, and it opened up a lot more properties for me. Feel free to reach out, happy to go through those options with you if you'd like!
Thanks Derek, this is a great point. We've been looking at it one purchase at a time, but you're right that the cash left after the first closing is what sets up the second, so planning both house hacks and the one year occupancy timing upfront makes a lot more sense. Good to hear the 5% conventional route worked for both of yours! I'll send you a message.
Honestly with today’s rates, it’s going to be super challenging getting anything to work self sufficiency wise. I’d personally favor 5% conventional if you can do it
Back in 2019, I was able to get self sufficiency with having a higher down payment, seller credits, lower coverage on insurance. I didn’t buy down the rate
I went conventional 5% down on my 4 unit house hack and so do nearly all of my clients. The 5% down conventional is an amazing program! Sellers know FHA has many risks such as lower credit financially weaker buyers, self sufficiency rule, lender repairs, etc. Not sure how hot your market is but especially if dealing with multiple offers its important to have your offer Conventional to look strong. On the listing side, I always advise sellers of the risks of each offer not just the price on the offer.
The biggest difference is that conventional financing doesn't have FHA's specific self-sufficiency test for 3–4 unit properties, so it can open up more options. However, I'd compare the full cash-to-close and monthly payment rather than just the 3.5% versus 5% down payment. Seller credits may help with closing costs or a rate buydown, but they won't necessarily solve the FHA self-sufficiency issue. Also, make sure your lender has confirmed the 5% conventional option for the specific property and occupancy situation. What price range are you looking at for these quads?