One thing I'd always check is whether the property actually works as an investment after all the costs, not just whether the purchase price looks good.
I'd look at taxes, insurance, HOA or rental restrictions, realistic rent, maintenance, and expected CapEx before getting too attached to the deal. If you're planning to house hack or eventually convert the property to a rental, I'd also think about how that future use affects the tax and depreciation side.
A property can look like a great deal at the offer price and still be a mediocre investment once you run the full numbers. Happy to connect!
@Chambers M Leandra Honestly? Get the sewer line scoped. It's usually a couple hundred bucks for a camera run from the house to the street, and most standard inspections don't include it.
It's the sneaky one. Cracked pipe, roots, or a belly holding water can sit there unnoticed until the backups start, and then you're staring at a five-figure repair. If the house is older and has clay or cast iron, I'd call it a must.
Do it during your inspection window and ask to see the footage, not just hear "looks fine." If it finds something, you can ask for a credit, have the seller fix it, or walk away before it's your problem.
Plenty of other stuff matters too, but this is the cheapest thing to check and the most expensive to miss. That's just what I'd do though, and your inspector or a local pro will know your market better than I do.
Before any offer, I check the rent the property can actually get — not the seller's number, the real one. Everything else flows from that. I underwrite to the 1% rule: monthly rent has to be at least 1% of the purchase price, or the deal starts underwater no matter how nice the house is. For my Section 8 houses that's checking the payment standard against the $1,395 to $1,950 range for 3-bedrooms and using the low end. Then I check the refi exit: will it appraise in the $180K to $265K range and carry a loan at 70 to 80% LTV? Sewer lines matter, but rent is the number that decides whether you own an asset or a payment.
Adding the Realtor angle to two great answers: before you write, check the money nobody puts in the listing. Pull the actual tax bill (not last year's estimate), get an insurance quote, and confirm any HOA dues and special assessments — those three can turn a "good deal" into a payment you can't carry. Then check the property's story: price history, days on market, and how it compares to actual sold comps, not active listings. A house that's been sitting usually has a reason, and knowing it before you offer is how you negotiate from strength. And get fully pre-approved, not just pre-qualified, so your offer is real when you find the one. The inspection finds the house's problems; this homework finds the deal's problems.
@Chambers M Leandra the age of the big stuff: roof, furnace, water heater, electrical panel. I'd assume the current owner didn't keep up with it the way you would, especially in an older house. You don't need perfect answers before the offer, but knowing which of those is near the end tells you whether the price makes sense. Then the inspection confirms it. Hope that helps.
Good question, Chambers — and I like the sewer and rent answers already here. The one I always check, especially on a creative deal, is the payment itself: is the existing loan current, what are the real taxes and insurance, and is there a clear paper trail for how payments will be tracked? I learned that lesson the hard way when a midterm switch left me without a solid agreement in place. What would it change for you if the payment story and the paperwork didn't line up?
One thing I'd always check is whether the property actually works as an investment after all the costs, not just whether the purchase price looks good.
I'd look at taxes, insurance, HOA or rental restrictions, realistic rent, maintenance, and expected CapEx before getting too attached to the deal. If you're planning to house hack or eventually convert the property to a rental, I'd also think about how that future use affects the tax and depreciation side.
A property can look like a great deal at the offer price and still be a mediocre investment once you run the full numbers. Happy to connect!
After 20+ years of inspections, the thing I'd always look at is where the water goes. Gutters, the grading around the house, stains on ceilings, and the corners of a basement or crawl space tell you a lot, because water problems quietly turn into the big bills later....
I’d always do a tour but I feel like that’s an easy one. I would be looking specifically at what systems seem like they’ll need to be updated to factor into the offer such as roof, hvac, electrical, etc.
Things to do BEFORE making an offer.. most of the advice here is things to do once your in contract and are all common sense due diligence items nothing shocking. Before you make an offer make sure your financing is approved and in place vis a vi how much you can borrow. decide on the risk you want to take IE A class B class C class D class etc.. @Drew Sygit has a great representation of the class he pastes into these threads read that and take it as gospel .. then off you go get into contract then do your inspections.. I will second the sewer scope I see that get skipped a ton out in the mid west for some reason were out here on the W coast no decent agent would allow a buyer to buy without one and of course there are markets were they are mandatory like certain areas of Pittsburgh and SF bay area certain cities.