Siahna, I would explain ARV and the 1% rule in plain English, because those two numbers decide whether a deal works.
ARV is what the house is worth after you fix it. In Memphis I buy single-family under $100K, ARV $180K-$265K, Section 8 rent $1,395-$1,950 for 3BR and up. The 1% rule is simple: monthly rent should be about 1% of what you paid in total. If it is not, the deal does not work, no matter how good the financing sounds.
A 2BR rents for less and sits longer, so I convert 2/1 to 3/1, often adding 400-650 sq ft by turning a carport or garage into a master bedroom and bath. I use DSCR at 70-80% LTV to refinance. Learn those two numbers first, then learn the loan terms.
That's a great one to understand early. Leverage can help investors take on bigger opportunities, but it can also magnify the risks when the numbers don't go as planned. Knowing how much debt a deal can comfortably support is just as important as finding the deal itself. What's one leverage mistake you think new investors should watch out for?
I would start with the monthly payment. It is the amount that has to be paid every month, and I look at whether the rent covers it once taxes and insurance are in. When it does not, I step back and keep learning.
I like this approach. Starting with the monthly payment gives you a much clearer picture of whether the property can actually support itself. It's easy to get excited about a deal without thinking about the ongoing expenses. Taxes and insurance can really change the numbers. Do you usually build in a little extra cushion for unexpected maintenance and vacancies, too?
Thanks Siahna, I appreciate that. Yes, I try to leave room for repairs and for months when a place sits empty. If the rent only just covers the payment after taxes and insurance, I step back and keep learning. I would rather pass on a tight one than get caught with no room for the unexpected.
I'd pick cash to close, meaning every dollar you have to bring and carry until the deal pays you back. First-timers usually plan around the down payment and get surprised by everything else. On a flip or a BRRRR that number also holds points and closing costs, the months of holding costs while the house sits empty, and the rehab money you front yourself, since rehab funds are commonly released in draws only after the work is inspected. Many lenders want reserves on top of that. Your list is a good one, and most of those terms end up feeding this single number. How strong a deal is depends as much on how long your cash lasts as on what the numbers say at the end. The deals I see go sideways rarely fail on the rate, they fail when the money runs out halfway through the job.
This is such an important point, especially for first-time investors. A deal can look great on paper, but if you underestimate how much cash you'll need throughout the project, things can get stressful quickly. Rehab costs, holding expenses, closing costs, and reserves all need to be part of the plan. I think understanding the cash flow throughout the project is just as important as looking at the projected profit. Have you found that newer investors tend to underestimate rehab costs or holding costs more often?
Absolutely! LTV becomes especially important when refinancing because it directly affects how much equity you can access and how much debt you're carrying afterward. It's exciting to see how much value you've built, but making sure the new payment still works is key. Do you usually aim for a particular LTV range when doing a cash-out refinance?
I'd probably explain LTV because it's one of those terms that sounds more complicated than it really is. If a property is worth $200K and you borrow $150K, you're at 75% LTV. What matters to me is understanding what that leverage does to the deal. More leverage means less money out of your pocket, but it also means a higher payment and less room for things to go wrong. For a first-time investor, I think understanding that tradeoff is more important than just knowing what the acronym stands for.
This is a great way to break it down for someone just getting started. The percentage itself is easy to calculate, but understanding what it means for your monthly payments and overall risk is where things really matter. More leverage isn't automatically better if it leaves you with little room for unexpected expenses. Do you think new investors focus too much on how much they can borrow instead of how comfortably they can manage the debt?
I'm a CPA, own a rental, and bookkeeping still seems to slip my mind sometimes. It's important to stay up to date every month. Two months slip by and you won't remember what you paid for. As I'm typing this, I'm remembering a few things I sent Zelle's for that I never recorded lol.
Even being a CPA doesn't make bookkeeping any less of a chore! 😂 You're right, though. It's so easy to forget the small expenses when you don't record them right away. Staying consistent every month can save a lot of headaches come tax season. Do you use any bookkeeping software, or do you mostly track everything manually?
Siahna, I would explain ARV and the 1% rule in plain English, because those two numbers decide whether a deal works.
ARV is what the house is worth after you fix it. In Memphis I buy single-family under $100K, ARV $180K-$265K, Section 8 rent $1,395-$1,950 for 3BR and up. The 1% rule is simple: monthly rent should be about 1% of what you paid in total. If it is not, the deal does not work, no matter how good the financing sounds.
A 2BR rents for less and sits longer, so I convert 2/1 to 3/1, often adding 400-650 sq ft by turning a carport or garage into a master bedroom and bath. I use DSCR at 70-80% LTV to refinance. Learn those two numbers first, then learn the loan terms.
Love the focus on keeping things simple! ARV and the 1% rule are useful starting points because they help investors evaluate a property's potential before getting too deep into the financing details. I also like your point about looking at ways to improve the property's layout and functionality. Those decisions can make a big difference in the finished product. When evaluating a property, do you usually prioritize the rental potential first or the renovation costs?
Great question Siahna - and you are right, we throw these terms around like everyone knows them.
If I could only explain ONE to a first-time investor, I would pick Exit Strategy. Because if you get that wrong, none of the other numbers matter.
In plain English:
Exit Strategy = How are you going to pay this loan back?
That's it.
Every loan has 3 exits:
1. Sell it - You fix it and sell it. This is a Fix & Flip loan.
2. Refinance it - You fix it, rent it, then refinance into a long-term DSCR loan. This is BRRRR.
3. Keep paying it - You keep the loan and pay it from the rent. This is a DSCR / rental loan.
Here is why new investors get in trouble: They get a 12-month fix & flip loan, but their plan is "I will refinance if I can't sell." That is not a plan, that is a hope. If the refi doesn't work, the loan comes due and they are stuck.
My simple rule I tell first-timers in Boynton:
Before you ask about rate, points, or LTV - answer this in one sentence:
"I am buying this to [sell it / refinance it / keep it] in [X months]."
If you can say that clearly, I can tell you exactly which loan you need. If you can't say it, you are not ready to borrow yet.
For the other terms, I explain them like this to newbies:
LTV = Loan vs what it's worth NOW
LTC = Loan vs what it COSTS you to buy + fix
ARV = What it will be worth AFTER you fix it
Points = Upfront fee to get the loan
Draws = Lender gives you rehab money in pieces as you finish work, not all at once
What is the one you see new investors misunderstand the most? For me it's Draws - they think they get all the rehab money day 1.