Too ambitious to do bathroom repair myself??
Providence, RI · Member since 2017 · 23 posts · 8 votes
Too ambitious to do bathroom repair myself??
Most Popular Reply
Investor · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes
8y#1 Identify any and all water leaks. Stop them.
#2 Inspect structural damage. Fix any.
#3 From there, and depending on how much you ripped out getting the structural work done, decide how you want the finished work to look. Repaired? Remodeled?
#4 Your decision on #3 will determine what you do next.
#5 Gut anything in your way. I have found that if you are going to take drywall out, it is best to take it all the way out from the floor to ceiling on the walls, as you will have less joints to mud - drywall is cheap. Try to avoid removing the ceiling drywall if you can avoid it, it is a PITA to install ceiling rock.
#6 After making sure all your floor joists are ok, start with the sub flooring. That's the layer right on the joists and is usually 3/4 inch plywood or 3/4 OSB. Then lay your flooring underlayment. What you use here is determined by what type of finish floor you will use. You need to figure out the thickness of all flooring components to achieve a match to the other floors in the house.
#7 Do all the rough plumbing and rough electric. Hire someone to do this. You will need to know exactly what your plan is by this point so you can tell that to the contractor and they can install everything in the right place at the right depth.
#8 Reinstall drywall. Again, I have found it is easier to start fresh than it is to patch stuff in. However, depending on how far you want to go with the remodel, you might end up patching it in. Drywall screws must be perfect. There is no close enough. They must be just barely recessed under the surface, but not so recessed they tear the paper. If you tear the paper and you will, put another screw in. Make sure you make a map of where your studs are and make sure you put electrical plates and plumbing plates over any area of stud where electrical or plumbing is behind it - not fun to screw into these and you could potentially burn your house down. Take note of all plumbing and electoral locations for when you install vanities and shelves too.
#9 If you have not installed a new tub, or the tub you have is good, then you are done. If you want to spray your old tub, this is the time to do it as you don't have to worry about over-spraying anything. I really like Rustolium 2-part refinish kit. You can roll it with a fine roller or better yet, you can spray it. They give you enough for two coats, but I recommend putting a thick coat on and being done, the stuff melts into itself, careful not to drip. If you drip, do not try to wipe the drip. Rather, let it dry and then touch it up.
#10 Tape, Mud, Sand, Paint. This is why you have not yet installed your finish floor, because this crap gets everywhere and you don't want to waste time trying to keep a finish floor clean. Cover up your nice tub. Don't worry about getting anything on your subfloor, the drywall mud scrapes off and the rest can stay. Never put on too much mud. Always side on an additional layer over trying to sand out a thick layer. Wear a mask when you sand and make sure the doors are closed - that stuff goes everywhere.
#11 Install tub tile. This is tricky and it pays to think about the placement before you start (that goes for all tile jobs). You will need to install a cement board underlayment first. It is likely you have drywall on there now. Drywall is not good under tile where there is excessive water like a tub. Put the underlayment anywhere you want to tile, leave drywall anywhere you will not tile. I like to go over the shower head, but just underneath it is ok to. All the way to the ceiling and on the ceiling is ok too. I would suggest going right under the shower head for your first go at this. I like to use a Sonicrafter vibrating tool to make precision cuts in drywall (my favorite tool - tool is cheap, blades are expensive). Tape the joints from drywall to cement board and fill with drywall mud. Some people like to tape and fill the cement board joints and that is fine, but not really necessary so long as you tile and grout right. When figuring the placement, first try to get it so full tiles work. That wont likely happen however, so then what you do is split the difference on each end. Not everyone does this, but it is the best looking, unless you end up with a tiny tile on each end, and in that case you just start with a full tile on one side and a cut tile on the other. Again it all depends and you need to work it out before you start. Don't forget to account for the tile spacers when you lay it out. Tubs are installed out of level so the water drains the right way. What I like to do is draw a level line one course up around the tub and start from there. Find the lowest part of the tub and measure up a full tile plus the thickness of a spacer from there to get a starting point, then draw the level line from there on all three sides. Once you have the first level line, then go to the middle of the tub and draw a plumb line at the center wall. You could do this on the side walls too, but those are short enough to skip it. Now you have a level and plumb lines to start with. Start in the center and work your way out. Only use full tiles the first day, let those dry and do all your cuts the second day. Do not put tile mud on your lines. I like to screw a 2 x 4 right under my plumb lines to keep the tiles from sinking. Use the spacers and make sure they are all in place and all evenly spaced. Work a small area at a time. Take your time, but go fast. Don't put too much mud on the wall or on the back of the tile, but make sure you have enough. You should feel the tile hit the backer board when you push it in. You can cheat tiles up or down using more mud if you have to, but hopefully your underlayment is good and you wont have to. The next day the full tiles will be set and you can work the cuts. A tile saw is fine, but getting good with a traditional tile score cutter is best. I would suggest having both on site. Tile saws work good for custom cuts, but you can use a nip for that too. Let it all dry a day before you grout. Don't screw around and buy premixed grout. I priced it out and it is barely more expensive than buying all the components and mixing them together. Grout is easy and tricky at the same time. The tub will be much harder than the floor because of gravity. Take a small amount, work from one side to the other and work it all the way in the joints. Easy on the spots that may have a cavity that will eat your grout - you could fill those with something before you start. That is a good reason some people like to tape and fill backer board joints. Once the grout is in the joint, pull the grout diagonally across the tile, trying to get just the right amount in. Always more, never not enough, just right is just right. Try to get as much of the excess grout off as possible, but just get off the excess and leave it - if you work it too much you will pull out too much from the cracks. Take a short break and swear a few times, you will definitely need to at this point. Don't break too long because your grout will dry and then your screwed. Take a wet sponge and wipe off the extra grout. The goal here is to tool your grout lines and get the large deposits of grout off before they harden. Do not over-tool and don't try to get all the grout film off yet. Once you get it tooled, go over it again with a sponge, this time staying off the grout lines and just attempting to get as much grout off the tile as possible. You will not get it all off however and don't even try to, you will drive yourself nuts because it is impossible. With only a light film left on the tile and your grout lines tooled evenly, let it all dry over night. The next day take a soft dry towel to the remaining film and you will be amazed at how it comes right off - make sure the grout lines are dry before you do this, but do not wait more than a day because the film will continue to harden and become harder to get off. Caulk the corners and where the tub meets the tile. I like leaving those grout free and just caulk them. You can grout the wall corners is you want, but do not grout where the tub meets the tile because a metal tub will expand and contract, meaning you have to caulk anyways. Pat yourself on the back if you haven't killed yourself yet.
#12 Install finish flooring.
#13 Install vanities, fixtures, holders, toilet, shelving.
#14 Realize you did not install a bath fan when you should have.
#15 Wonder if it was worth it. If you have all your fingers, toes and sanity, and the damn thing looks good, then maybe you will do it all over again or maybe you will just hire it out next time. Ponder how many times you went back to the store for stuff you forgot or stuff you didn't realize you needed or stuff that was wrong or stuff you screwed up and had to buy again and for tools, tools and more tools. Ponder how many damn tools you bought. Realize your contractor is not over-charging you and the small defect in workmanship you blew a gasket on was not really a big deal.
LOL. Have fun. Be safe. Expect to screw it up and do it twice.
32 Replies
- 8yJimmy MurrayBusiness MemberInvestor · Warwick, RI · Member since 2013 · 220 posts · 119 votes
@Jennifer Cheu I would recommend having the contractor complete the tile and floors. To include a new toilet (in addition to the floor) and have him install that as well should cost less $250.
From there I would recommend hiring a glazing company to reglaze the tub and tile.
After that, install a new vanity and this will put your bathroom rent ready condition.
Lyon Property Group4.5635 Reviews - Investor · Philadelphia, PA · Member since 2015 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes8y
nah you can do it... but smarter to budget a month without the bathroom.
once you start the demo you will keep going until your down to studs and joists.
do everything new, you wont regret it.
the chamber pot system worked before it can work again.
- Investor · Post Falls, ID · Member since 2016 · 606 posts · 699 votes8y
I also vote do it. You will learn so much, it will be invaluable. Watch You Tube videos until you find one that matches your needed repair. Even if you end up hiring out future repairs, you will have some experience to help you manage your workers.
Shower at the gym.
- Investor · San Jose, CA · Member since 2015 · 76 posts · 64 votes8y
The subfloor looks pretty bad. I would rip everything out, including the tub and toilet. Fix all the dry rot in the floor and/or walls so you have a nice stable floor to support the new tile, fixtures, vantity ect. Otherwise, you will be doing the job over again very soon.
- Flipper/Rehabber · Montgomery, NY · Member since 2016 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
What floor is this on and what it below it? You say a "rotted beam", I assume you mean a rotted floor joist? If so, where does the joist run? Is it a 12' joist that runs further than the bathroom? Have you ever done a floor joist repair? Does the plumbing of the tub or toilet pass through the rotted joist?
I think it is doable, but there is a lot of investigating you should do before going full throttle into it. If it's one straight forward joist, some plywood subfloor and then cosmetics, tub, toilet and finish it, it won't be bad. If the joist isn't a straight forward job, that could be fairly difficult, and may require bringing in a sub (unless your persistent enough to just get it done).
I have done plenty of rotted subfloor work (an entire kitchen, second floor baths, termite damage, etc) but have never needed that room for taking my shower/bath, and have experience doing the work.
- 8yRuss SmithPro MemberRental Property Investor · Clearwater, FL · Member since 2017 · 36 posts · 70 votes
If you enjoy doing hands-on work and you want the experience, then I think you should take a stab at it. The experience you'll gain is invaluable.
Make sure you ask a lot of questions. Talk to people on BP that have hands-on remodeling experience, talk to guys in Lowe's and Home Depot that know how to do plumbing and tile work, and talk to anyone else you know locally that could give you some pointers.
As an example, most professional tile guys don't like putting tile down directly over wood subfloors (unless they are really, really sturdy; no flex). If they do tile over top of wood, there is a special thinset (tile adhesive) that is made specifically to adhere better to wood. Better yet, installing a layer of Hardi-board over your new wood subfloor would be a better alternative, then tile on top of the Hardi.
This is just one of many tips/hints that someone with experience would know that will help you complete a successful project. Ask lots of questions! Best of luck on your remodel.
- Providence, RI · Member since 2017 · 23 posts · 8 votes8y@brian The rot at the worst part is down to the lowest level of the original flooring. The vertical floor joists should be in decent shape if there's any rot on it. I don't have much repair experience at all and my main concern is falling through the floor as I'm doing the repair. It's also a good call to expect 1 month no bathroom. I think the best bet is if I can find a friend to talk me through the process and check I on my progress every few days. But overall it sounds like I should find a way to do it for less than 2k.
- Flipper/Rehabber · Montgomery, NY · Member since 2016 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
@Russ Smith they sell an add mixture you out in the thinset which allows you to install on plywood, however I prefer to put down cement board first.
@Jennifer Cheu is this a first or second floor bath? If first and the basement is open, get down below and start digging into the joists before you start tearing our.
- Deland, FL · Member since 2017 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
toilet and install should be less than $150
Tub and install less than $300 unless there are issues
- Investor · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
Hire it out.
- Providence, RI · Member since 2017 · 23 posts · 8 votes8y@brian It's a first floor and I have access to the basement. Great idea I'll try to look closer from the basement.
- Real Estate Broker · Redwood City, CA · Member since 2014 · 679 posts · 888 votes8yIt looks like the water damage might also affect the subfloor underneath the tub. If you can see from basement, check that out. If that needs to be replaced, the tub needs to be removed. This is a big job.
- San Diego, CA · Member since 2015 · 273 posts · 226 votes8y
I'm very much a DIY person, but this is a huge job to do yourself as a first project. That could be great- you will learn a ton! But this is also something you want to make sure you do right.
Can you repair the floor with the tub in place? Does everything need to be dried out before you can start? Do you have to replace the joists or can you sister them? Is there moisture in the walls causing them to need to be replaced as well?
If you have a friend with rehab knowledge who can help that would be best. And worst case scenario, you start the project and realize you need to hire some aspects out. No matter what (if you can live w/o a bathroom for a while) there's no harm in starting the project on your own.
Please keep us posted! My husband and I bought and rehabbed a 4 unit last year, and we really miss doing construction work.
- Whittier , CA · Member since 2013 · 176 posts · 96 votes8y
Its a bigger job than you think. If you have the time...
- Real Estate Agent · MD · Member since 2017 · 39 posts · 37 votes8y
@Jennifer Cheu I re-did my bathroom this year and was only comfortable doing non-plumbing things like installing the sheet rock and doing the tile work. We hired a plumber to install the tub and change out the toilet (but videos on toilet installs make it look very easy, I feel we could have done that ourselves). I say that to say that maybe you should try to complete some of the work and figure out what may be too overbearing to take on with this first job and hire out those select tasks, kind of like being your own general contractor.
- Dallas, TX · Member since 2016 · 3 posts · 2 votes8yif is your first bathroom ever. I would Definitly hire someone to do it. Pay to get first hand knowledge. The time that your going to spend by watching videos and guessing if you are doing the right thing... is going to add up to your over all cost. Not sure what the price on material is up there but some of the numbers mention on the threat were a bit low ( I think) $250 to $400 would not cover material cost much less labor. I wouldn't risk doing the plumbing yourself. It can end up costing you much more if you have to tear down and re do.. this is assuming you want to up grade the whole bathroom ie.. new water valve, maybe raise the height of the shower etc. I would Definitly go with doing everything new. if you are going to continue doing remodeling your self.start keeping track of all cost (system) it will Definitly help you for the next time. hope this helps. Good luck.
- Investor · Philadelphia, PA · Member since 2016 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes8yI'll agree with those who say it's a much bigger job than you think and it touches on a lot of trades that you'll have to lead all at once. It would take a pro 3-5 days to gut and rebuild. It would take an avid DIYer probably 6-12 days. It'll take you likely a month. I would start with hiring most of it out. Pick one or two items that you want to learn and do yourself. Maybe floor tile and finish plumbing (install the vanity/sink/toilet). Hire out the rest. Figure out how you do and if you enjoy it. Next project you do, pick up another trade and learn it. There is so much to know and learn, I really think you'll find yourself overwhelmed.
- Lexington, MI · Member since 2014 · 92 posts · 29 votes8yBathrooms are a hard beginner project. The rotted subfloor and joist are a big issue. Where was the water coming from? There's no point in fixing anything if you have a leak that's going to ruin it all again. There's no point in doing new tile if a rotted joist is going to sag the floor. Get some help making sure the joists and subfloor are fixed right. Make sure the plumbing isn't leaking behind the walls. Then if you want to save money DIY sure.
- Rental Property Investor · Sioux Falls, SD · Member since 2015 · 9k+ posts · 18k+ votes8y
Originally posted by @Michael Plante:
toilet and install should be less than $150
Tub and install less than $300 unless there are issues
You can't buy a decent tub with surround for under $600 parts only. Plus the cost of new plumbing fixtures. A licensed plumber will charge several hundred to install. Toilet, maybe someone will do a cheap toilet for $150. I wouldn't go bottom of the line with parts that need to last 20 years. Just my opinion. Maybe some flippers install junk like this but a landlord wants to avoid problems down the road.
- Real Estate Investor · Encinitas, CA · Member since 2016 · 3k+ posts · 3k+ votes8y
@Jennifer Cheu For what it's worth, I'd hire it out and use a contractor. Either way it's not the end of the world. If you get in too deep you can always use a contractor down the road. I think what would concern me is what you can't see in that picture. What happens if/when you tear out the tub and everything else. That could change the scope of your repair and/or the estimate from the contractor.
On a practical note, if you want to do this to learn the skill and plan to use the experience over and over again...go for it. If you're just doing this one time and don't plan on reusing the skill that you learned, definitely get a contractor. You go through more bumps and bruises the first time doing something.
So if you're think about doing the BRRRRRRRR (I always get the number of R's wrong) or flipping, then I'd do it. If you want to buy and hold late model builds it's probably not worth the hassle.
My two cents...from the perspective of someone who wouldn't do it...
- Deland, FL · Member since 2017 · 2k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
Originally posted by @Joe Splitrock:
Originally posted by @Michael Plante:
toilet and install should be less than $150
Tub and install less than $300 unless there are issues
You can't buy a decent tub with surround for under $600 parts only. Plus the cost of new plumbing fixtures. A licensed plumber will charge several hundred to install. Toilet, maybe someone will do a cheap toilet for $150. I wouldn't go bottom of the line with parts that need to last 20 years. Just my opinion. Maybe some flippers install junk like this but a landlord wants to avoid problems down the road.
Didn’t say tub surround
Also didn’t say fixtures
Actually ihave have them in The house I️ live in. Perfect shape for many years
Those are actual prices I pay so yes they are available
Don’t assume because you have to pay more that everyone else has to pay more
Rented out my first house over 30 years ago so I am familiar with rental quality fixtures
Please tell me why you would think you need a licensed plumber to change out a toilet?
If I wanted I could do it myself I less than an hour
- Pottstown, PA · Member since 2017 · 79 posts · 31 votes8y
@Jennifer Cheu Go for it! I'm all about learning on the job. If you can afford the time, take your time and learn. Sub out the important stuff like plumbing and structural. Or try it yourself and have a pro check your work. It'll cost you a little for their time but cheaper than contracting out the whole project. Safety is key so if you don't trust yourself, don't do it.
- Investor · Riverside, CA · Member since 2014 · 239 posts · 177 votes8yI agree with it being a bigger job than you think. I've done dozens of bathrooms and it always seems like a pretty easy, self explanatory job at first, but usually isn't. Not saying you can't, by all means give it a whack, but with the subfloor problems, and setting tubs and plumbing it might be a bigger undertaking than originally thought. With that being said, yes it would be a wealth of learning to do it on your own, but sometimes mistakes on something major like a subfloor could result in a much bigger and costlier fix later on. Possibly ask around if you have a friend/relative with this type of construction experience that you can pay to do the work, but with you, learning at the same time. If you try and shadow a contractor or stand in the doorway during the work the entire time to learn, you'll probably find yourself bugging the heck out of the contractors and might not see them again if you need further work.
- Rental Property Investor · Sioux Falls, SD · Member since 2015 · 9k+ posts · 18k+ votes8y
Originally posted by @Michael Plante:
Originally posted by @Joe Splitrock:
Originally posted by @Michael Plante:
toilet and install should be less than $150
Tub and install less than $300 unless there are issues
You can't buy a decent tub with surround for under $600 parts only. Plus the cost of new plumbing fixtures. A licensed plumber will charge several hundred to install. Toilet, maybe someone will do a cheap toilet for $150. I wouldn't go bottom of the line with parts that need to last 20 years. Just my opinion. Maybe some flippers install junk like this but a landlord wants to avoid problems down the road.
Didn’t say tub surround
Also didn’t say fixtures
Actually ihave have them in The house I️ live in. Perfect shape for many years
Those are actual prices I pay so yes they are available
Don’t assume because you have to pay more that everyone else has to pay more
Rented out my first house over 30 years ago so I am familiar with rental quality fixtures
Please tell me why you would think you need a licensed plumber to change out a toilet?
If I wanted I could do it myself I less than an hour
Obviously any tub needs a surround (or tile) and fixtures. Cheap toilets don't flush well and mechanically break under wear. I have gone the cheap route and now go middle of the road on all plumbing. I have had rentals long enough to see issues from low cost plumbing fixtures I installed new less than 5 years before. Tenants are even harder on things than you would be in your own home.
Don't assume because you paid less that you are better at finding good deals. You get what you pay for. I can find a tub at Home Depot for $150 and a random dude on Craigslist to install it too. I just choose not to.
I never stated a licensed plumber is required to change a toilet, but have someone competent do it. I have changed over 30 toilets and never had an issue. Two areas of caution: Use a thick wax ring and line it up properly. Don't over-tighten the bolts to the floor.
In most parts of the country, ripping out a tub and floor would be considered a bathroom remodel and would require a permit and licensed plumbers. Usually in your own residence you can do the work yourself.
- Investor · Milwaukee, WI · Member since 2013 · 1k+ posts · 1k+ votes8y
#1 Identify any and all water leaks. Stop them.
#2 Inspect structural damage. Fix any.
#3 From there, and depending on how much you ripped out getting the structural work done, decide how you want the finished work to look. Repaired? Remodeled?
#4 Your decision on #3 will determine what you do next.
#5 Gut anything in your way. I have found that if you are going to take drywall out, it is best to take it all the way out from the floor to ceiling on the walls, as you will have less joints to mud - drywall is cheap. Try to avoid removing the ceiling drywall if you can avoid it, it is a PITA to install ceiling rock.
#6 After making sure all your floor joists are ok, start with the sub flooring. That's the layer right on the joists and is usually 3/4 inch plywood or 3/4 OSB. Then lay your flooring underlayment. What you use here is determined by what type of finish floor you will use. You need to figure out the thickness of all flooring components to achieve a match to the other floors in the house.
#7 Do all the rough plumbing and rough electric. Hire someone to do this. You will need to know exactly what your plan is by this point so you can tell that to the contractor and they can install everything in the right place at the right depth.
#8 Reinstall drywall. Again, I have found it is easier to start fresh than it is to patch stuff in. However, depending on how far you want to go with the remodel, you might end up patching it in. Drywall screws must be perfect. There is no close enough. They must be just barely recessed under the surface, but not so recessed they tear the paper. If you tear the paper and you will, put another screw in. Make sure you make a map of where your studs are and make sure you put electrical plates and plumbing plates over any area of stud where electrical or plumbing is behind it - not fun to screw into these and you could potentially burn your house down. Take note of all plumbing and electoral locations for when you install vanities and shelves too.
#9 If you have not installed a new tub, or the tub you have is good, then you are done. If you want to spray your old tub, this is the time to do it as you don't have to worry about over-spraying anything. I really like Rustolium 2-part refinish kit. You can roll it with a fine roller or better yet, you can spray it. They give you enough for two coats, but I recommend putting a thick coat on and being done, the stuff melts into itself, careful not to drip. If you drip, do not try to wipe the drip. Rather, let it dry and then touch it up.
#10 Tape, Mud, Sand, Paint. This is why you have not yet installed your finish floor, because this crap gets everywhere and you don't want to waste time trying to keep a finish floor clean. Cover up your nice tub. Don't worry about getting anything on your subfloor, the drywall mud scrapes off and the rest can stay. Never put on too much mud. Always side on an additional layer over trying to sand out a thick layer. Wear a mask when you sand and make sure the doors are closed - that stuff goes everywhere.
#11 Install tub tile. This is tricky and it pays to think about the placement before you start (that goes for all tile jobs). You will need to install a cement board underlayment first. It is likely you have drywall on there now. Drywall is not good under tile where there is excessive water like a tub. Put the underlayment anywhere you want to tile, leave drywall anywhere you will not tile. I like to go over the shower head, but just underneath it is ok to. All the way to the ceiling and on the ceiling is ok too. I would suggest going right under the shower head for your first go at this. I like to use a Sonicrafter vibrating tool to make precision cuts in drywall (my favorite tool - tool is cheap, blades are expensive). Tape the joints from drywall to cement board and fill with drywall mud. Some people like to tape and fill the cement board joints and that is fine, but not really necessary so long as you tile and grout right. When figuring the placement, first try to get it so full tiles work. That wont likely happen however, so then what you do is split the difference on each end. Not everyone does this, but it is the best looking, unless you end up with a tiny tile on each end, and in that case you just start with a full tile on one side and a cut tile on the other. Again it all depends and you need to work it out before you start. Don't forget to account for the tile spacers when you lay it out. Tubs are installed out of level so the water drains the right way. What I like to do is draw a level line one course up around the tub and start from there. Find the lowest part of the tub and measure up a full tile plus the thickness of a spacer from there to get a starting point, then draw the level line from there on all three sides. Once you have the first level line, then go to the middle of the tub and draw a plumb line at the center wall. You could do this on the side walls too, but those are short enough to skip it. Now you have a level and plumb lines to start with. Start in the center and work your way out. Only use full tiles the first day, let those dry and do all your cuts the second day. Do not put tile mud on your lines. I like to screw a 2 x 4 right under my plumb lines to keep the tiles from sinking. Use the spacers and make sure they are all in place and all evenly spaced. Work a small area at a time. Take your time, but go fast. Don't put too much mud on the wall or on the back of the tile, but make sure you have enough. You should feel the tile hit the backer board when you push it in. You can cheat tiles up or down using more mud if you have to, but hopefully your underlayment is good and you wont have to. The next day the full tiles will be set and you can work the cuts. A tile saw is fine, but getting good with a traditional tile score cutter is best. I would suggest having both on site. Tile saws work good for custom cuts, but you can use a nip for that too. Let it all dry a day before you grout. Don't screw around and buy premixed grout. I priced it out and it is barely more expensive than buying all the components and mixing them together. Grout is easy and tricky at the same time. The tub will be much harder than the floor because of gravity. Take a small amount, work from one side to the other and work it all the way in the joints. Easy on the spots that may have a cavity that will eat your grout - you could fill those with something before you start. That is a good reason some people like to tape and fill backer board joints. Once the grout is in the joint, pull the grout diagonally across the tile, trying to get just the right amount in. Always more, never not enough, just right is just right. Try to get as much of the excess grout off as possible, but just get off the excess and leave it - if you work it too much you will pull out too much from the cracks. Take a short break and swear a few times, you will definitely need to at this point. Don't break too long because your grout will dry and then your screwed. Take a wet sponge and wipe off the extra grout. The goal here is to tool your grout lines and get the large deposits of grout off before they harden. Do not over-tool and don't try to get all the grout film off yet. Once you get it tooled, go over it again with a sponge, this time staying off the grout lines and just attempting to get as much grout off the tile as possible. You will not get it all off however and don't even try to, you will drive yourself nuts because it is impossible. With only a light film left on the tile and your grout lines tooled evenly, let it all dry over night. The next day take a soft dry towel to the remaining film and you will be amazed at how it comes right off - make sure the grout lines are dry before you do this, but do not wait more than a day because the film will continue to harden and become harder to get off. Caulk the corners and where the tub meets the tile. I like leaving those grout free and just caulk them. You can grout the wall corners is you want, but do not grout where the tub meets the tile because a metal tub will expand and contract, meaning you have to caulk anyways. Pat yourself on the back if you haven't killed yourself yet.
#12 Install finish flooring.
#13 Install vanities, fixtures, holders, toilet, shelving.
#14 Realize you did not install a bath fan when you should have.
#15 Wonder if it was worth it. If you have all your fingers, toes and sanity, and the damn thing looks good, then maybe you will do it all over again or maybe you will just hire it out next time. Ponder how many times you went back to the store for stuff you forgot or stuff you didn't realize you needed or stuff that was wrong or stuff you screwed up and had to buy again and for tools, tools and more tools. Ponder how many damn tools you bought. Realize your contractor is not over-charging you and the small defect in workmanship you blew a gasket on was not really a big deal.
LOL. Have fun. Be safe. Expect to screw it up and do it twice.
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