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Stuart Alexander
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Soundproofing between units?

Stuart Alexander
Posted

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!

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Chris Seveney
  • Investor
  • VA
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Chris Seveney
  • Investor
  • VA
ModeratorReplied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 Carpet and padding on the upper unit should work as well. There is not much else you can do than what you prescribed. 

  • Chris Seveney
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Chris Seveney
  • Investor
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Chris Seveney
  • Investor
  • VA
ModeratorReplied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 Carpet and padding on the upper unit should work as well. There is not much else you can do than what you prescribed. 

  • Chris Seveney
business profile image
7e investments
5.0 stars
3 Reviews

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Chris Seveney:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 Carpet and padding on the upper unit should work as well. There is not much else you can do than what you prescribed. 


 Thanks for the reply Chris. Carpet and padding was what was originally in the upper unit before I purchased it - likely effected a lot when it was removed. 

Should I notice much of a difference after completing the work I have outlined? 

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Bruce Woodruff
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Bruce Woodruff
#1 Contractors Contributor
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Replied

Are you talking about walls or floors? There are some things you can do with walls, but with floors (other than rebuilding) you are limited to carpet or floor coverings....

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:

Are you talking about walls or floors? There are some things you can do with walls, but with floors (other than rebuilding) you are limited to carpet or floor coverings....


 Apologies, should have specified. I am talking about approaching this from the ceiling of the lower unit as my tenants are currently away for the summer. 

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Bruce Woodruff
#1 Contractors Contributor
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Bruce Woodruff
#1 Contractors Contributor
  • Contractor/Investor/Consultant
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Replied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:

Are you talking about walls or floors? There are some things you can do with walls, but with floors (other than rebuilding) you are limited to carpet or floor coverings....


 Apologies, should have specified. I am talking about approaching this from the ceiling of the lower unit as my tenants are currently away for the summer. 


Well then, you can fur out the ceiling with 2x2's, add insulation, special sound-resistant drywall etc... I've used these before and they work (at least somewhat :-)

https://www.certainteed.com/dr...

https://www.amazon.com/Soundsu...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RO...

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:

Are you talking about walls or floors? There are some things you can do with walls, but with floors (other than rebuilding) you are limited to carpet or floor coverings....


 Apologies, should have specified. I am talking about approaching this from the ceiling of the lower unit as my tenants are currently away for the summer. 


Well then, you can fur out the ceiling with 2x2's, add insulation, special sound-resistant drywall etc... I've used these before and they work (at least somewhat :-)

https://www.certainteed.com/dr...

https://www.amazon.com/Soundsu...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RO...


 Oh excellent! How much of a difference would that all make in your experience? Noticeable? 

What if I left the existing ceiling and didn't do insulation (not sure if it is currently insulated, i'll need to check). 

Complete system would be 
-sound dampening underlay (upper unit) 
-5/8th dry wall 
-sonopan (https://www.homedepot.ca/produ... )
-Resilient Channel 
-5/8th dry wall 

Thanks!

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Paul De Luca
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Chicago, IL
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Paul De Luca
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Chicago, IL
Replied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 I know you're focused on the ceilings and you've already gotten advice there, but in the future you can use carpet on the floors or install an underlayment under whatever flooring you have to further reduce noise. I wish I had done that when we had vinyl plank flooring installed in the unit above us. Similar issue as you with the noise from the tenants above us is a bit much.

User Stats

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Paul De Luca:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 I know you're focused on the ceilings and you've already gotten advice there, but in the future you can use carpet on the floors or install an underlayment under whatever flooring you have to further reduce noise. I wish I had done that when we had vinyl plank flooring installed in the unit above us. Similar issue as you with the noise from the tenants above us is a bit much.


 I actually did add sound deadening underlay to our unit when we bought the place. Originally it was carpet, the seller added laminate directly on the subfloor. I pulled up the entire unit piece by piece and redid the floors - it was a lot of work! Sound in the unit was slightly better, but still not where I need it. 

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Paul De Luca
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Chicago, IL
1,588
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Paul De Luca
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Chicago, IL
Replied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Paul De Luca:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 I know you're focused on the ceilings and you've already gotten advice there, but in the future you can use carpet on the floors or install an underlayment under whatever flooring you have to further reduce noise. I wish I had done that when we had vinyl plank flooring installed in the unit above us. Similar issue as you with the noise from the tenants above us is a bit much.


 I actually did add sound deadening underlay to our unit when we bought the place. Originally it was carpet, the seller added laminate directly on the subfloor. I pulled up the entire unit piece by piece and redid the floors - it was a lot of work! Sound in the unit was slightly better, but still not where I need it. 


 Oh bummer! I figured that would help but was somewhat skeptical it would be enough. How much extra was it to install the underlayment?

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Paul De Luca:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Paul De Luca:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:

Hey everyone, currently living in a house-hack (over/under - we live in the upper unit). Original plan was to move on after a year, but we really like the area.

Problem is, it's a wood frame construction, and the noise transfer between the units is starting to bug me. Louder conversations can be heard as muffled speech, I often use the heat pump to drown it out. Social visits from either unit will cause a decent amount of sound to enter the other unit.

Considering living here longer, but we might address the sound issues. Does any one have any experience with this?

Hoping to mostly resolve speech/ect noises not impact as I know that is a different beast.

Planning on keeping the existing ceiling, but adding
-sonopan
-resilient channel
-5/8th dry wall

Would this make a noticeable difference? It will be a decent chunk of money.

Is it possible to just do the living spaces (living room, kitchen, hall way) and leave the bedrooms unchanged?

Thanks in advance!


 I know you're focused on the ceilings and you've already gotten advice there, but in the future you can use carpet on the floors or install an underlayment under whatever flooring you have to further reduce noise. I wish I had done that when we had vinyl plank flooring installed in the unit above us. Similar issue as you with the noise from the tenants above us is a bit much.


 I actually did add sound deadening underlay to our unit when we bought the place. Originally it was carpet, the seller added laminate directly on the subfloor. I pulled up the entire unit piece by piece and redid the floors - it was a lot of work! Sound in the unit was slightly better, but still not where I need it. 


 Oh bummer! I figured that would help but was somewhat skeptical it would be enough. How much extra was it to install the underlayment?


 Pretty cheap - well in the grand scheme of sound proofing. I think it was an additional $600-700 for the 1200 sqft unit.

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Alan Asriants
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  • Philadelphia, PA
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Alan Asriants
  • Real Estate Agent
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Replied

Insulation between the beams and thicker sound proof drywall.

Also if the floor upstairs is creaking, consider screwing the subfloor down, this can help a lot

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Bruce Woodruff
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Bruce Woodruff
#1 Contractors Contributor
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Replied
Quote from @Alan Asriants:

Insulation between the beams and thicker sound proof drywall.

Do you mean the joists? And there is no 'sound-proof' drywall, just 'sound -resistant'


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Bruce Woodruff
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Bruce Woodruff
#1 Contractors Contributor
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Replied
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Stuart Alexander:
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:

Are you talking about walls or floors? There are some things you can do with walls, but with floors (other than rebuilding) you are limited to carpet or floor coverings....


 Apologies, should have specified. I am talking about approaching this from the ceiling of the lower unit as my tenants are currently away for the summer. 


Well then, you can fur out the ceiling with 2x2's, add insulation, special sound-resistant drywall etc... I've used these before and they work (at least somewhat :-)

https://www.certainteed.com/dr...

https://www.amazon.com/Soundsu...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RO...


 Oh excellent! How much of a difference would that all make in your experience? Noticeable? 

What if I left the existing ceiling and didn't do insulation (not sure if it is currently insulated, i'll need to check). 

Complete system would be 
-sound dampening underlay (upper unit) 
-5/8th dry wall 
-sonopan (https://www.homedepot.ca/produ... )
-Resilient Channel 
-5/8th dry wall 

Thanks!


 Yes, it should be a noticeable difference....not scientific, but I'll say 30-50%.....?

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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Alan Asriants:

Insulation between the beams and thicker sound proof drywall.

Do you mean the joists? And there is no 'sound-proof' drywall, just 'sound -resistant'

Yes, I believe that's what he means. 


Yes, I believe that's what he means.

From my research, the name of the game is mass. I guess my debate is how much better is insulation then 5/8th dry wall - as it will be quite a bit more costly to rip out the existing ceiling and purchase the insulation than it would be to add on top of the existing ceiling. 

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Alan Asriants
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Alan Asriants
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Replied
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Alan Asriants:

Insulation between the beams and thicker sound proof drywall.

Do you mean the joists? And there is no 'sound-proof' drywall, just 'sound -resistant'



yes I mean joists, and yes it won't be sounds proof 

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Alan Asriants - New Century Real Estate
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Christina M.
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  • PA
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Christina M.
  • Rental Property Investor
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Replied

@Stuart Alexander

We used plywood, a layer of cork and LVP with sound proofing back (thick rubber) upper units. Definitely made a difference and we no longer install rugs. You may not need plywood.

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Hi! I just wanted to say that if you ended up renting out the top unit to a family with kids, then it will be a complete nightmare for both parties. There is the potential for lawsuits if the bottom unit can’t stand the kids running and jumping. I’m not sure if you’ve experienced this before, but dampening the sound using literally anything you can is a great idea!

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Jeremy Lemm
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Washington & Idaho
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Jeremy Lemm
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Washington & Idaho
Replied

Depending on code in your area, you may have to have 5/8" fire resistant drywall as your ceiling in the lower unit which will help with the sound barrier. Another option would be to insulate the ceiling with Rockwool; 

ROCKWOOL COMFORTBATT R-15 Attic Wall 59.7-sq ft Unfaced Stone Wool Batt Insulation Individual Pack in the Batt Insulation department at Lowes.com

It does double duty as a fire barrier and is a good sound absorber. I used it when I finished my basement and it helped. 

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I just renovated an up/down duplex. We added blow-in insulation between floors. The cavity was 9" tall and we filled it completely. We left the original plaster ceiling and added 5/8" drywall over it. It did almost nothing to dampen sound. You can still hear everything from above when in the lower unit, including voices when speaking at a normal level and every footstep. Even every footstep of the dog upstairs. We are now facing having to tear out all the layers of the ceiling and the insulation we just added. We are starting over with the more expensive methods. Paying to have all of that installed, and then immediately having all of it demo'd is going to end up costing about $8k. It's one of the most expensive mistakes I've ever made. We should have just gone with the more expensive and reliable methods from the start. Looking into this right now: https://www.soundproofingcompa...

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
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Quote from @Erica Murphy:

I just renovated an up/down duplex. We added blow-in insulation between floors. The cavity was 9" tall and we filled it completely. We left the original plaster ceiling and added 5/8" drywall over it. It did almost nothing to dampen sound. You can still hear everything from above when in the lower unit, including voices when speaking at a normal level and every footstep. Even every footstep of the dog upstairs. We are now facing having to tear out all the layers of the ceiling and the insulation we just added. We are starting over with the more expensive methods. Paying to have all of that installed, and then immediately having all of it demo'd is going to end up costing about $8k. It's one of the most expensive mistakes I've ever made. We should have just gone with the more expensive and reliable methods from the start. Looking into this right now: https://www.soundproofingcompa...


Most expensive mistake I ever made was going variable when I bought this place ;) what did you use for insulation? I could see my current set up being similar to what you have now. I’m hoping the extra inch of mass/sound dampening brings Me to an acceptable level of noise transfer. 

How is your house heated by the way? I’ve heard ducts pass a lot of sound.

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We used cellulose insulation. No ducts. Heated upstairs with boiler/radiator, and downstairs with mini split. I'm not an expert, but I think if the noise is airborne, like voices or TV, then an extra inch might help muffle it. If it's vibrations like foot fall, then it won't help at all. Based on my experience, I think relying on insulation and drywall is not worth the money. It's still thousands of dollars, and it barely helps. It might improve by 20-30% but you will still hear everything from the other unit. I think it's probably better to spend a few thousand more to achieve more like 80-90% improvement.

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Stuart Alexander
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Stuart Alexander
Replied
Quote from @Erica Murphy:
We used cellulose insulation. No ducts. Heated upstairs with boiler/radiator, and downstairs with mini split. I'm not an expert, but I think if the noise is airborne, like voices or TV, then an extra inch might help muffle it. If it's vibrations like foot fall, then it won't help at all. Based on my experience, I think relying on insulation and drywall is not worth the money. It's still thousands of dollars, and it barely helps. It might improve by 20-30% but you will still hear everything from the other unit. I think it's probably better to spend a few thousand more to achieve more like 80-90% improvement.

 I think at the end of the day there will always be sound transferring, the goal is to get it to an acceptable level. Lower units I’ll inherently have sound transfer issues - my main goal is to make the upper unit not experience sounds from the lower so as long as I can add enough mass to get rid of airborne noise I should be okay. Best of luck!

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Robert S.
  • Grand Rapids, MI
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Robert S.
  • Grand Rapids, MI
Replied

Someone else shared it already, read everything here - https://www.soundproofingcompa...

Then watch this guys stuff -

Overall for your situation, I’d do this (depending on budget)

1. Insulate ceiling. From most descriptions the sound dampening insulation provides negligible improvements over fiberglass. But do your own research.

2. Add resilient channel

3. Two layers of drywall with green glue in between them, or one layer that comes with green glue. You may have to do two layers for fire code anyway.

4. If you redo floor upstairs do sound dampen underpayment then the flooring. Or do carpet with padding. If you redo subfloor then you could put green glue up there too.

You’re going to ask how much it will help. Impossible to know so best thing you can do is watch YouTube videos and then test yourself after each step and decide if you want to go further.