Engineered Hardwood Over Concrete- How would you install?

Question

Greetings, BPers- I am halfway through my first buy/hold upfit (a 2-story townhome) and I intend to tear out a crappy carpet and parquet floor downstairs and put in Engineered hardwood from Home Depot. Total coverage will be approximately 410 sq ft. The surface beneath the current floors is a concrete slab that looks like used glue to hold the parquet tiles down. I have not looked beneath the carpet yet but presume concrete continues. Assuming it is all concrete, do I need a vapor barrier **AND** underlayment beneath a floating engineered hardwood floor? Or just underlayment? the HD website is selling Floormuffler Ultraseal Flooring underlayment for $0.65/sq ft. Would installing a product like this by itself be adequate? I am in North Carolina for weather and there does not seem to be any issues from water in the past regarding the concrete.

Account Closed · Answer

I second the vinyl plank "hardwood" choice. I used it in a rental - It looks damn good, I'm happy with the results. There are some nice looking vinyl-based products out there. I used the TrafficMASTER product from Home Depot.To answer your original question, I used both a vapor barrier & an inexpensive underlayment the one time I put a wood product over concrete. I didn't want to lose sleep worrying about moisture related failure. That was a few years back, there have been no problems with it.

Account Closed · Answer

I definitely agree with #2.  This is the last thing to get installed.  It is easy to clean, etc, but it is textured and drywall dust and paint get into the texture and make it a pain to clean.  At $1.50 a sq foot, it is hard to beat for he price and tenants love it.  We will never install carpet again.  As far as the base board goes, if you are careful, you make this hug the edges and won't need shoe molding (quarter round) or have to take up the baseboard.  I don't mind taking up the base board so it is no big deal to me.

Account Closed · Answer

This isn't sheet vinyl.  It is individual planks.  It is textured.  You can put an underpayment underneath it if you want.  I'd suggest rosen paper.  Cheap and easy.  But underlayment is not required and I don't use it.  You will find the trend lately is that landlords are using this product in place of carpet.  It lasts a long time.  Doesn't get dirty like carpet.  Is supper easy to repair and at $1.50 a sq/ft it is a great deal.  They make higher end ones as well.  The bamboo version is pretty spectacular looking.

Account Closed · Answer

May I suggest the using a vinyl plant hard wood floor.  Looks great. Easy to clean and repair.  No worries on moisture.

Patrick M. · Answer

@Andrew David Evans Definitely! I've gotten a lot of help from the BP forums, and I hope to document/share back to the group for the benefit of others once it is up and rented.

Andrew David Evans · Answer

I am very curious as to how the flooring will look in your completed project, I hope to see a photo or 2 when it is finished, good luck!

Patrick M. · Answer

I'm comfortable taking up baseboard trim and re-nailing. So it seems like my closeout on this floor would be:

1. Sand glue off of concrete subfloor.

2. Paint walls.

3. Install plank vinyl

4. Touch-up paint near floor if needed.

5. Nail down trim.

6. Profit?

Patrick M. · Answer

Okay you guys have me intrigued and it looks like I could save $630 using Plank Vinyl. My current concrete floor has glue residue from the old parquet wood. Can I just plop down the Plank vinyl, or would you recommend I sand the glue off the floors first? If you'd recommend sanding, should I do that before or after painting walls?

Patrick M. · Answer

@Mark Poulton - thanks for the suggestion. I'm also concerned about comfort. I have sheet vinyl in my laundry room, it seems a little, well, cheap. If I did the vinyl planks, is underlayment required with that? Trying to make this a higher-end rental. Thanks again for chiming in!