Putting in a new tub surround - does anyone have any quick tips?

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Pat L. · Answer

Another tip never replace the tub with the very cheap fibre-glass shells. We inherited one that did not withstand the drop of a large bottle of shampoo. The shell base literally cracked & leaked. I replaced it with a special order return ($625 Kohler) tub that I got for $150 at Lowes. It was heavy & very solid but the unique o/flow cost me $85. In fact they had a Kohler out yesterday for $75 with a small chip at the tile edge & shell base that would be covered by wall & floor tile after the install. But I did grab the 36" vanity for $50 as I picked up a random 36" top last year for $25.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scott-Living-Robinson-Coffee-OAK-Single-Sink-Vanity-with-White-Acrylic-Top-Common-36-in-x-18-in/1000326503

Pat L. · Answer

Account Closed I often grab the cheap 49cent tile for these jobs BUT I always use backer board to ensure an absolute square solid fit. On high end porcelain tiled walls to the ceiling I go with the heavier backer board. Drywall is cheaper but if you get any moisture back there its a redo. For speed & convenience I only use the premixed mastic & grout as depending on ambient temperature the mixed powder stuff has been a big problem. I also add a recessed cubby for the shampoo/conditioners etc as they love it. 1st Pic below is 49c tile shower stall with that cubby behind her shoulder & then the high end porcelain tile I did with a marble cubby I got from Lowes for $50.

With 49c tile the grout lines are larger because the tile varies in actual dimensions.

Johann Jells · Answer

Update the shower valve if it's older and not one of the newer "universal" body types that are easy to service. Last summer I did a subway tile surround, I hate the plastic ones, and only use fiberglass for shower stalls.

Baraa Yassin · Answer

*Replace needed plumbing parts

*Use hardi backer or green boards for walls, make sure all joints and screws are covered with red guard or smiilar water proofing material, adding plastic sheet between the backerboard and the studs will give extra moisture protection.

*Design your shower in advance like shower head loaction to be in the center of the tile for example or use some mosaic border between the tiles to start and finish from tub to ceiling with complete uncut tiles (looks more perfect), adding a shampoo recessed box would be nice!

*if it happend and replaced the tub make sure the drainage and overflow connection are good and test them before closing walls, also make sure they use enough thinset as a bed underneath the tub and a waterproofing plastic sheet under that thinset ifit happend to be on plywood (if raised foundation).

*always end the tiles out side of the tub end line, i mean of the sides ends dont stop the tile where the tub ends but let them go out couple of inches, looks better that way.

*If 2x4 or 3x6 (regular subway tile) used, try to get the matching bullnose pieces with it for the ends and around the shampoo box if any, otherwise use a 8' metal end piece (like schluder metal trim).

*Always use good grout and thinset.

Hope that helps...Good Luck

Pat L. · Answer

We only do tile unless it's a <C-class. In that case we have used sheet linoleum as a shower wall glued to the walls. Got the tip from a fellow sect-8 investor & it worked great.

As previously mentioned definitely change out the old plumbing/diverter valve etc if you can.

Cindy Descamps · Answer

We are currently replacing the surround in one of the bathrooms in our duplex.  While in the hardware store we ran into a contractor guy who recommended Loctite Powergrab tub and tile and these 4x8 sheets of RPK(?) it is fiberglass... oh and we used Durock concrete board as the backboard.  Greenboard works too but we have had better luck with Durock holding up to the tenants abuse.   And my husband always says measure twice and cut once - he usually says that after he "didn't" do it the first time lol.  Good Luck

Kat W. · Answer

It’s been a couple years, but I read to use double the adhesive that was recommended and we did, plus some. I still wish we had done more.

Be prepared to put in new “waterproof drywall” I can’t remember the actual term for it.

Check, double check, and then triple check the locations where you will cut holes for the faucet and handles

If it’s the only tub or shower in your home, line up somewhere to shower. If it takes longer than you plan, you could end up showering in the kitchen in a Rubbermaid tub with your kitchen sprayer. That is what we did on days we didn’t have time to get to a friend’s to shower.

I’m not a professional, but these are the things I remember from replacing ours.

Putting in a new tub surround - does anyone have any quick tips?

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