For a first home, lock your “buy box,” get preapproved, inspect sewer/foundation/roof/HVAC, price insurance and taxes upfront, and decide your exit before you enter.

You’ve got two parallel plays: 1) The condo: don’t move a dollar until the HOA gives a written green light on your desired rental type; if restricted, price a sale vs LTR hold and include dues, special assessments, and an off‑ramp if they delay. 2) The house‑hack: use the bank grant plus your cash to target a small multifamily you can live in; lock financing first, verify rents in writing, and buy light‑rehab so you’re not managing two rehabs out of state.

Choose durable, easy‑clean finishes, lock in utility caps, and set a tight screening and deposit policy.

Use the move stateside to house hack with your VA loan if possible: pick a small multi or single with an ADU potential in a landlord‑friendly area, live in it, lock a low‑down, then convert to rental when you transfer.

When you’re buying a full rowhome, gutting it, installing new framing, changing the layout, adding bathrooms, replacing windows, running brand-new plumbing and electrical, new roof, dry-locking the basement, etc.

Congrats on locking up your first deal!

You’d be banking more on loan paydown and value growth than on monthly profit.Here’s how I’d look at it:If you flip: You lock in that equity spread ($230K ARV – $160K purchase = ~$70K), minus costs and taxes, but you get your money back quick and move on.If you BRRRR: You’d probably refinance out most of your capital, end up with minimal cash flow, and take on landlord risk — but you’d still own an appreciating asset.For BRRRR to really make sense, I like to see at least $300–$400/month net after all expenses — or a strong reason to hold long-term (like location upside, rezoning potential, or tax benefits).Given your experience flipping, this one feels a little tight for a BRRRR unless you’re trying to build a rental portfolio right now.

Keep it simple: lock a tight scope, fixed-price contract, realistic contingency, and comps-supported rents; avoid undercapitalizing draws.

Track patterns, not one-offs .Maintenance triageLife-safety and habitability = immediate.Nuisance items batched into one visit to save trip fees; set boundaries for light bulbs, loose handles, squeaky doors .HVAC filters and tune-ups on cadence with photo proof; replace only when failure or at turn unless risk dictates .Turn standardScope template: paint touch-up, flooring repair, caulk, deep clean, locks rekey, curb appeal.Do big upgrades at vacancy, not with tenants in place, unless safety or leakage forces it .PM accountabilityExpectations doc: response times, approval limits, photo receipts, monthly owner update.Calendar check-ins: delinquency on the 6th, vacancy every Friday, turns twice weekly until listed .Biggest time sinks and how to cut themBack-and-forth on minor work orders: batch and set thresholds; teach PM what’s urgent vs optional .Chasing updates: standardize touchpoints and require proof-in-photos for work done .Overpricing vacancies: use ranges, listen to PM’s on-the-ground read, and choose speed over squeezing the last bit on your first units .Quick wins when inquiries slowPhoto order: lead with the best exterior at golden hour, then kitchen, bath, best room.Price bracket tweak: drop to just under a common search filter and add a move-in credit line in the first sentence.First 5 photos tell the whole story: light, clean, and your three sell points up front.Your next movePick one property.

Hi @Anthony Bailey Good thinking ahead on REP, most people try to “retrofit” it at tax time and it’s too late.A couple key points:Placed-in-service year vs. cost seg yearThe property being placed in service in 2025 doesn’t lock you into doing the cost segregation in 2025.