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All Forum Posts by: Albert Bui

Albert Bui has started 17 posts and replied 2129 times.

Post: HELOC to Fund Downpayment on Next House Hack?

Albert Bui
Posted
  • Lender
  • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
  • Posts 2,186
  • Votes 1,442
Quote from @Panos Coufos:

Hi everybody! I bought my first property in September 2023. It is a duplex and I live in one side and rent out the other. since purchasing the property with a 10% down portfolio loan through a local bank, I have done extensive repair work and renovations. The work together with appreciation suggest that I will now be somewhere between 20 to 25% equity. The bank is coming out for an appraisal so I can drop my PMI (woohoo!!).

I would like to get into house hacking another small multifamily as soon as possible. A local bank will give up to 100% LTV HELOCS (up to $400k). I am thinking about taking out 5 to 10% to fund a down payment on my next live in multifamily house hack. On property number one, I would cash flow $750 a month after mortgage, taxes, and insurance if I also rent out the unit I live in. After the HELOC, it would drop down to about $450 per month.

My goal is long term equity and appreciation, and not cash flow. Is this a wise decision to use a HELOC on property number one that only has 20 to 25% equity in it to fund a down payment for a live in house hack in multifamily property number two? I have cash reserves and money in retirement accounts, but I don't want to dip too deeply into my reserves. Thoughts? For reference, I am 30 years old and not married. Having a real estate license, I would credit the commission payed out I would receive for being my own agent towards closing costs for the new property.


Ive used HELOC's to purchase properties, shoot I've even gotten cash out auto loans on my used acura tsx to buy a fourplex to bridge the gap. At the time I needed all allowable sources possible to gather the down payment to buy so I had to be pretty creative.

Whether its best to use HELOC's or not depends on what other choices you have. I would review all the cost of capital for the sources you have, example would be:

- your cash - while it seems free or zero cost your cash should always be assigned an opportunity cost such as 4.25% sitting around in a savings or CD account with no risk as your min cost of capital (cheapest source of capital)

- personal lines of credit with no security or asset backing it or called signature lines or signature loans at credit unions and community banks, these are usually prime + 2-4% so probably 9.5-11.5% roughly

- HELOC's or secured by real estate, lines of credit usually prime + 0% up to prime +3% or so, 7.5-10.5% rates

- fixed mortgages on your real estate like a cash out refinance at the moment can be around 6.75-7.5% 30 year so this one costs some where between your cash above and your lines or personal loans. This one is limited as it can only go up to 75% LTV on your property value or up to 80% (rare instances up to 90% LTV)

- 401k loans if you have a retirement or self directed solo 401k plan (self employed) might be 6-8%, you're borrowing from yourself but IRS rules dictate you gotta pay your retirement plan a reasonable market rate. You can borrow up to 50k or 50% from these plans WHICH ever is lower

- Cash value life/permanent insurance policies - these are 5-6% roughly for policy loans at the moment if you have a life policy you could consider accessing your cash value for a policy loan to fund your down payment or use the cash value within your policy as cash reserves

- stocks/bonds/portfolio - you can typically use 70% of the balance as reserves or borrow a SBLOC (securities backed line of credit) on your stock porfolio at certain brokerages to access a line against the value of your stocks typically brokerages will give you 30-50%, sometimes 60% of your stocks depending on your Beta or risk of your portfolio (lower risk stocks will get higher LTV % and lower rate and vice versa high risk stocks you'll get less LTV on your line and higher rate).

Hopefully that is enough ideas to jump start the mortgage planning on capital sources but you can plan ahead with these. Alot of these will require some tax planning, financial planning, and action to set in place prior to your real estate game plan.

Best of Luck,

Post: House Hacking, FHA, Lots of Student Debt, 2bed-2bath v Multi-Family

Albert Bui
Posted
  • Lender
  • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
  • Posts 2,186
  • Votes 1,442
Quote from @Kaili lynn Mcdonald:

Hey all. This is my first post, and I'm still trying to figure out a plan for getting into real estate. Please be kind!

- Short-term goal: Buy a property and house hack to lower cost of living and help direct funds towards paying off student loans. I'll need somewhere to live when my lease is up in 2 months. 

- Long-Term Goal: Refinance/take out a HELOC on the first property and use it to purchase a second property. Rent out the first property. Repeat.

I have a real estate agent and a lender I am working with for my first property purchase. I have had my heart set on purchasing multi-family properties to house hack, but I have minimal funds for a down payment and need to use an FHA. I also have student debt I would like to pay off by either lowering my cost of living by house hacking and eventually putting cash flow towards my debt.

However, I have already gotten pre-qualified. It seems what I can afford is something like a 2 bed condo/townhouse, but not a multi-family property in the location that I am looking. I'm trying to decide if I should continue pursuing a to house hack a 2 bed 2 bath property (with a mortgage I could manage on my own if need be) or start a part-time job (in addition to my 9-5) to save money for a larger down payment and pay off student debt. 

Could anybody provide any insight to consider when purchasing a townhouse/condo as a future rental property? Thanks in advance! 


 make sure to look into the potential rental income from the other legal units as well as that could help you qualify for more if your personal income "cannot," get there.

An example would be a fourplex, if you live in one you could in theory use 75% of the other 3 units (lets say 1500 each X75% = 1125 per month) to give you around 1125 X 3 = 3375 more gross income per month.

If you're only at 6k gross income per month now you can get up to 9375 per month in terms of qualifying income.

This add of income to help qualify can only be done in legal 2-4 unit properties and in some cases with ADU income (freddie mac conventional).

Post: Pacific Northwest (Portland/Vancouver)

Albert Bui
Posted
  • Lender
  • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
  • Posts 2,186
  • Votes 1,442
Quote from @Eamon Keating:

Thank you all for your responses. I appreciate the time you spent and the direction you have pointed me. 


A sub 3% rate on a 30 year fixed mortgage is a beautiful thing as much as lenders will try to convince you to refinance you should keep it as long as you can since its so low (often times that rate is below the rate at which money is losing value or inflation so you're gaining value/net value by just keeping that mortgage, you could even call that liability an asset since its value is increasing in that way of thinking).

There are HELOC's and lines of credit out there that go up to 90-95% of the value of your home atleast while you're physically occupying the unit. So with careful mortgage planinning between your title timeframes (title seasoning as lenders like to call it), planning your income or tax returns, and how long you live at each property while you're house hacking them you could in theory get a HELOC on each primary residence before you leave them and buy the next.

The problem lies when you forget to add the HELOC because if you go to apply for the HELOC and you dont live there any more your LTV will go from 90-95% down to 70-75% maximum which means you'll be leaving about 20% of your equity's access on the table (idle equity).

Given HELOC's are prime (currently 7.5% fluctuates when feds change their 4.25-4.5% fed funds rate + 3.00 fixed margin = usually comprises the prime rate formula) its pretty pricey so I wouldnt use HELOC's as my first choice but rather as a back up source to fund your down payment or rehabs but to quickly figure out a way to repay these lines back down to zero (or find a plan to do so quickly).

Post: Need Advice on purchasing first multifamily for profit in Pacific Northwest

Albert Bui
Posted
  • Lender
  • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
  • Posts 2,186
  • Votes 1,442
Quote from @Joey Klusmann:

My girlfriend and I have been exploring the idea of purchasing a multi-family property as our first investment, in addition to owning our primary residence. We're based in the Pacific Northwest and have primarily focused our search in this region.

One of the main challenges we've encountered is that multi-family properties tend to be quite expensive—typically starting in the mid-$500,000s and up. When we compare the mortgage costs to the average rental income in these areas, the numbers often don’t support positive cash flow.

We've considered purchasing an investment property without living in it, but that would require a 20% down payment. Alternatively, if we were to move into the property and live there for at least a year, we could qualify for a 3.5% down payment. However, the resulting mortgage would be significantly higher, and it’s unlikely we could charge enough rent to cover it.

We have a few questions:

1. Is a HELOC the best way to access cash for purchasing an investment property, or are there better alternatives?

2. Are there any loan options that allow for a low percentage down payment on an investment property if we don’t plan to live in it?

3. Is there anyone familiar with the Pacific Northwest market who can offer tips or advice on finding cash-flow-positive properties?


    1. a HELOC is "one," way to access your equity but a fixed loan refinance of the entire property is also another way to access that equity. The question lies with how much equity you want to access. I know of programs to access up to 90% of the value of the property for 1st or 2nd, some programs go as high as 95% for HELOC.

    2. Investment no, depends on what you view as "low," all Investment out there is 15-25% down payment. The lower you go the higher rate spikes to while your main goal was to lower your down payment you've accumulated other problems (higher rate spiking up or other unfavorable terms) which causes your cashflow situation to get worst. So buying Investment or primary residences and making the numbers work should be something you do before you acquire the property that way there is a path to success that is charted upfront first. Like for instance if your SFR isnt going to cashflow day 1 while you live there thats fine but the question is will it cashflow after you rehab the entire house, split it up into 6 bedrooms, rent by the room on 1 year leases, and built 2 DADU's in the backyard (after july 2025 when HB1337 goes into effect) will it cashflow then?

    How much cash do you need at each stage to accomplish this path (during the rehab how much cash and where will the financing come from? Then during the DADU build whose going to give you the construction note/loan to build them etc). To Sum it up, figure out how far you want to go with your property and what it will take at each stage and realistically how long it will take to get there to start planning ahead.

    3. Yes I've lived in Seattle, Bellevue, Tacoma, Burien, Steilacoom, and lakewood. I know a bit about the area you could say.

    Best of luck,

    Post: FHA House Hack

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442
    Quote from @Sam Evrard:

    Let's say I'm looking to go in at 3.5% on a duplex in the Columbus area using an FHA. I've been seeing properties go for 250k-350k that are within a reasonable range for an investment. What amount of cash saved is feasible for this option?

     well its 250-350 X .035 (3.5% down payment in decimal format) = 8750-12,250 down payment + closing costs (probably 6-8k roughly).

    If you go even leaner you get a DPA (down payment assistance) program and that absorbs/covers/offsets your 3.5% down payment then you bring in the remainder of the down payment or just the closing costs.

    If you go even leaner, you get the seller to cover your closing costs and then some becuase FHA is a program where you can receive up to a maximum seller concession of 6% so 6% or 350,000 is well over 20G's of closing (potential, your market may vary). In this scenario you'd bring in no money to the deal other than your documented income, credit, and promise to hereby pay on time.

    Some DPA programs are only allowed on 1-2 units so if you're house hacking a fourplex you might have to go with the standard FHA or 203k (if you're in need of cosmetic repairs 203k streamline or the overhaul of rehabs with a standard 203k FHA program).

    We've never experienced a lender we work with that required cash reserves on a FHA loan other than in specific circumstances like with a fourplex (min 3 months) or if you're under 600 fico some lenders add on an overlay which requires some reserves but overall in 95% of FHA situations there are no cash reserves required that I've seen over the last 15 years.

    I've personally house hacked over 4 properties (condo, townhome, 2 fourplexes) and the xperience you're gain from them and managing your own tenants will definitely help ease you into rental game. Im looking into tenantcloud software at the moment as it seems like the most functional platform to manage tenants A-Z at free/low cost.

    Good Luck on the RE game.

    Post: HELOC on Primary Residence

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442
    Quote from @Ferm Biz Turner:

    What if you have full equity and can’t get it out?


     what problem are you have at accessing your equity Ferm ?

    Post: Looking for some insight

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442
    Quote from @Jacob Bassett:

    There's not a specific scenario yet. I'm just looking for information for future knowledge use. Thank you in advance!

    Are there times within a real estate transaction where one might benefit from using non-collateralized personal loans for working capital or is it more of a hindrance than a beneficial tool?

    If it's a hindrance, what would be a better route to use when someone has already acquired a property or in the works of acquiring and needs working capital?


     Its always good to keep personal lines of credit, credit cards with near full limit for cash advance, or other non secured methods of obtianing credit in advance of any deal so you can always have back up options. Typically rates on these are 3-6% + prime and given prime is 7.50% at the moment it could be anywhere from 10.5-14% which is like hard money with out the points to fill in any stop gaps in your investing plans.

    Try working with the least expensive forms of capital first which are savings, then mtg's 6-7% at the moment, and move up the capital chain as it gets pricier and pricier.

    I've used this strategy and still keep a few credit cards around with 50k limit that allow cash advance. My prior favorites were navy Federal credit union platinum, unify credit union, penfed or pentagon FCU, BECU's or boeing employee's FCU, and more.

    As for HELOC's or secured lines of credit those are better as their rates are nearly the same as credit cards however the one advantage is if you max out a secured line of credit or secured loan against real estate your fico's and credit scores down tank 65-100 points while if you max out a unsecured line, just know that your scores will tank temporarily till its paid off thats why its only advised to use unsecured lines/cards/loans as a last resort.

    Sometimes you need your credit and fico scores to refinance out of a situation so if you tank your fico's just know it will be much tougher to refinance or you may be able to refinance but at less than optimal pricing so its best to plan ahead in situations where this might occur.

    Post: Has anyone used the “All in one loan” with CMG Financial?

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442
    Quote from @Jason Lee:

    Anyone have a story of CMG freezing the line of credit, like banks historically did during a downturn in the economy? I am closing on the loan soon.


     I would be interested to hear anyone reporting but its unlikely it would happen at a time like this unless values dropped substantially. The only markets I've heard values drop substantially are in Florida, Austin TX, or pockets where oversupply are rampant. The rest of the country so far is in relative balance with supply/demand. For instance in PNW or pacific northwest supply is growing in many counties however there are high demand pockets that get over asking and multiple offers like east side seattle (bellevue/bothell/kirkland/redmond).

    Its hard to have the lender freezing your line if your value is still within the correct LTV's. Its not in downturns alones, but its in times of hardship either for the banks or when the LTV's go way above 75-80% then the banks start getting uneasy with the portfolio's risk level that they might issue a freeze or reduction of credit line.

    Post: Can I qualify for an FHA Loan if I already have a conventional loan?

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442

    FHA 100 mile rule doesnt apple to only FHA to FHA loans, it applies any time a borrower leaves their primary residence currently and tries to use FHA to buy another primary residence.

    Luckily the OP doesnt have a 100 mile rule situation because the property has been rented by tenants for over a year so its already classified as a rental on paper.

    You can use the rents on your rental to offset your monthly conventional mortgage on that rental property. The rental income a lender will use is most likely taken from your tax returns. There are some cases where an exception is warranted to go back to the lease agreements. Depending on the numbers, one calculation might be better than another. I would have to look at that situation to see which options are available.

    The issue of why you dont qualify is probably due to DTI or debt to income. So we'd have to look at the income to see where the DTI ratio is currently at, as is today and help you plan your next purchase going forward.

    Post: Do I rent my house or no?

    Albert Bui
    Posted
    • Lender
    • Bellevue WA & Orange County, CA
    • Posts 2,186
    • Votes 1,442
    Quote from @Micah Hughes:

    I’m 21 with a 4 bed 2 bath house and a desire to be self employed with rental properties one day. I own a house worth roughly 320k with 230k left on my loan. I have a sorority from a nearby university interested in renting it, which would allow me to cash flow $1k a month after all expenses. If I rented it I’d end up in an apartment but I’d be making more money but a lot more potential issues. Not sure if I should go with that route or continue to rent a couple rooms


    One way to look at it is to compare the rents you’d get to a normal long term tenant on the open market with what this sorority will end up paying you to see if the juice is worth the squeeze or not.

    If the premium above market makes sense in your situation then you could proceed with the sorority just make sure you have a ironclad lease agreement drawn up with some potential out clauses in case the tenant doesn’t turn out how you had envisioned it within the confines of the local laws of course. 

    Hope that helps.