I am thinking of swapping out incandescents for LED in all my units on a forward basis.

Phone chargers pull next to no power, most people are or have transitioned to laptops, the modern tv (which isn't so modern anymore) pull nearly no power, even lights today are those horrid flourescents which pull next to nothing, not that a ceiling fan with incandescent 4x75W lights (if you like really bright rooms) pulls any amperage (3a maybe?).

How a color looks in sunlight is different than how it looks in shade or with LED bulbs versus incandescent.  

If your tenants keep 5-10 incandescent bulbs or halogens on when they're home, it can be like having a small space heater fighting your AC.

and many others have some interesting stuff if you use the search function.Personally, i left:-bulbs (various cfl, incandescent) matching the existing inside/outside light fixtures-extra batteries for smoke/monoxide detectors (i moved to 10 years sealed battery since....)

Turn on (only) one same watt incandescent bulb in each unit and see if the meters spin identical, or if one  is a little faster.Running the A/C?

It's a weird color -- in the sunlight, it looks grayish, but under florescent or incandescent light it looks more brownish.Good color though...

Also, there’s an old remedy stating that if you hang an incandescent light in the space where the pipes are secured, it won’t let the temperature dip below freezing.

CFL's today actually look very much like incandescent light, in that they have the same warmth and softness of light that standard incandescents do, just with much less energy usage.

It is possible to get lights rated "non insulation-contact", but for those, you have to build a box around the fixture up in the attic if you ever want to add insulation.Also, if you get can lights that take incandescent or compact fluorescent bulbs, install the correct bulbs - usually reflector bulbs.