Home inspection came back. Are these big issues for a 90 years old house?

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Home inspection came back. Are these big issues for a 90 years old house?

Edilson Gomes
Member since 2020 · 5 posts · 2 votes

Hi all, 

Found an older home and really like the location, style and yard. It checks all the boxes for what I was looking for and I think it has a lot of potential. I am in the NE so older homes are common. My offer was accepted at about 500K which was just a few thousands dollars below asking price. This was higher than I wanted because the interior needs remodeling but the seller didn't want to budge on the asking price (owner passed away and the kids are selling). The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k. The inventory in the area is pretty low right now so I like to move forward with the deal if I can but also don't want to screwed. Looking to get some advise on how serious these issues seem to educate myself before speaking with my realtor and the seller's agent. Should consult with some contractors before proceeding ?  Should I ask the seller to fix the issues or offer concessions? What if they refuse? TIA

Basement 
Evidence of water penetration and dampness noted at time of inspection. Spalling mortar observed on foundation. Foundation has been painted, and moisture has been trapped behind paint causing it to crack / peel. Also, observed water stains on foundation. The source and amount of water penetration may not be observable at the time of inspection. Consult the owner for a historical perspective regarding previous water penetration. Installation of sump pump system is not to professional standards. Observed no sump cover, no check valve, no dedicated outlet, substandard discharge line, and pump is improperly discharging into town sewer. Consider installing a proper, permanent sump pump system which should include a proper sump with a cover, a pump, a permanent discharge line with a check valve and a dedicated sump pump outlet.

Plumbing System
Accessible Water Supply Lines:
Corrosion and patina observed on fittings and valves. Anticipate repairs and upgrades. Poorly supported and loose water lines noted. Properly secure lines at regular intervals. Also, unused lines have been left opened with only valve stopping water flow. If valve fails, accidental flooding may occur. Consult a plumber regarding repair, upgrade, scope of work, and associated costs.

Accessible Drain/Waste Lines:
Type: Cast Iron, Copper
Please note: Cast iron waste lines have been painted over. This hides true condition of waste pipe. Further evaluation is recommended. There was corrosion and rust on accessible waste lines. Monitor for leaks and anticipate future upgrade.

Central Heating and Cooling
Condensate Components
Components: Gravity Drain Line, Condensate Pump,
Secondary Drain Line . Observed leak in condensate. Repair / replace where needed.

2nd Floor Back Bedroom
Wall Type: Plaster
Water stained wall areas observed. Consult seller for history. This, most likely, occurred prior to installation of new roof (replaced in 2014 and received A/B rating.) Further investigation is recommended. Further evaluation may reveal concealed damage and other related water penetration issues.

Garage (detached)
Moss/Lichen build up observed on roof. Roof surface needs replacement.

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Marcus Auerbach
Investor · Milwaukee - Mequon, WI · Member since 2010 · 5k+ posts · 7k+ votes
1y

Ideally, your agent can walk you through the report, because he has seen the property. The issues sound familiar, we have a lot of 100 year old homes in Milwaukee (and I have been rehabbing many of them for over 15 years).

Basement:
Very typical for a house of that vintage. 90% of all dampness in basement walls comes from poor surface water management. Overflowing clogged gutters, downspouts, negative grading. People don't understand the purpose and importance of a gutter system, just drive around and look. Most old basements look like this (BTW you are looking at the basement wall, you can't see the foundation, that is what the basement wall is sitting on top of.) The house was built before sump pumps where a thing, but it certainly does not hurt to have one. A quality sump pump is $250, a check valve $10, sump pump cover $30... The municipality does not want you dumping rain water into their sewer system, so you really should discharge into the yard (far enough from the house). And get a dehumidifier.

Plumbing
Par for the course, it's an old house. The lines have been unsecured since forever... that is really not an issue. Budget for a day of labor and $500 in materials. I assume it's galvanized pipeing. We typically replace it all with pex and be done with it for the next 50 years. Cast iron pipes can fail, sometimes they crack like a saussage you cooked too hot or a slow leak due to corrosion, either way, replace a section with PVC as needed. Pretty standard for an old house.

HVAC:
If that is the biggest issue, congrats! Would not hurt to replace the condensate line, they tend to fill with algae. Budget $10 for materials ;-)

Plaster:
Sounds about right with the old roof. Congrats on the newer roof, that is money in the bank.

Garage roof:
In my area I'd budget about $3,000 for a new garage roof. If the garage does not have proper gutters, not a bad idea to install.

If this is all there is on a 90 year old house you found a really good one! Regardless I would try to negotiate and hit them up for a closing cost credit. I would not trust a seller with repairs, better you take the time and have it done the right way after closing without a rush-job premium.

I typically send the inspection report to the seller and tell the other agent that my buyer is VERY concerned. Then wait for 2 days before sending a list of 5 or 6 bullet points of issues with estimated repair cost (maybe a little on the high side) and ask for a closing cost credit (check with your lender how much max you can receive, you are probably limited to actuals). If they don't go for it, ask for half. If they call your bluff, don't take it personally and close the deal. This is pretty minimal for a 90 year old house!

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  • Marcus Auerbach
    Investor · Milwaukee - Mequon, WI · Member since 2010 · 5k+ posts · 7k+ votes
    1y

    Ideally, your agent can walk you through the report, because he has seen the property. The issues sound familiar, we have a lot of 100 year old homes in Milwaukee (and I have been rehabbing many of them for over 15 years).

    Basement:
    Very typical for a house of that vintage. 90% of all dampness in basement walls comes from poor surface water management. Overflowing clogged gutters, downspouts, negative grading. People don't understand the purpose and importance of a gutter system, just drive around and look. Most old basements look like this (BTW you are looking at the basement wall, you can't see the foundation, that is what the basement wall is sitting on top of.) The house was built before sump pumps where a thing, but it certainly does not hurt to have one. A quality sump pump is $250, a check valve $10, sump pump cover $30... The municipality does not want you dumping rain water into their sewer system, so you really should discharge into the yard (far enough from the house). And get a dehumidifier.

    Plumbing
    Par for the course, it's an old house. The lines have been unsecured since forever... that is really not an issue. Budget for a day of labor and $500 in materials. I assume it's galvanized pipeing. We typically replace it all with pex and be done with it for the next 50 years. Cast iron pipes can fail, sometimes they crack like a saussage you cooked too hot or a slow leak due to corrosion, either way, replace a section with PVC as needed. Pretty standard for an old house.

    HVAC:
    If that is the biggest issue, congrats! Would not hurt to replace the condensate line, they tend to fill with algae. Budget $10 for materials ;-)

    Plaster:
    Sounds about right with the old roof. Congrats on the newer roof, that is money in the bank.

    Garage roof:
    In my area I'd budget about $3,000 for a new garage roof. If the garage does not have proper gutters, not a bad idea to install.

    If this is all there is on a 90 year old house you found a really good one! Regardless I would try to negotiate and hit them up for a closing cost credit. I would not trust a seller with repairs, better you take the time and have it done the right way after closing without a rush-job premium.

    I typically send the inspection report to the seller and tell the other agent that my buyer is VERY concerned. Then wait for 2 days before sending a list of 5 or 6 bullet points of issues with estimated repair cost (maybe a little on the high side) and ask for a closing cost credit (check with your lender how much max you can receive, you are probably limited to actuals). If they don't go for it, ask for half. If they call your bluff, don't take it personally and close the deal. This is pretty minimal for a 90 year old house!

    1Reply
    • Edilson Gomes
      OP
      Member since 2020 · 5 posts · 2 votes
      1y
      Quote from @Marcus Auerbach:

      Ideally, your agent can walk you through the report, because he has seen the property. The issues sound familiar, we have a lot of 100 year old homes in Milwaukee (and I have been rehabbing many of them for over 15 years).

      Basement:
      Very typical for a house of that vintage. 90% of all dampness in basement walls comes from poor surface water management. Overflowing clogged gutters, downspouts, negative grading. People don't understand the purpose and importance of a gutter system, just drive around and look. Most old basements look like this (BTW you are looking at the basement wall, you can't see the foundation, that is what the basement wall is sitting on top of.) The house was built before sump pumps where a thing, but it certainly does not hurt to have one. A quality sump pump is $250, a check valve $10, sump pump cover $30... The municipality does not want you dumping rain water into their sewer system, so you really should discharge into the yard (far enough from the house). And get a dehumidifier.

      Plumbing
      Par for the course, it's an old house. The lines have been unsecured since forever... that is really not an issue. Budget for a day of labor and $500 in materials. I assume it's galvanized pipeing. We typically replace it all with pex and be done with it for the next 50 years. Cast iron pipes can fail, sometimes they crack like a saussage you cooked too hot or a slow leak due to corrosion, either way, replace a section with PVC as needed. Pretty standard for an old house.

      HVAC:
      If that is the biggest issue, congrats! Would not hurt to replace the condensate line, they tend to fill with algae. Budget $10 for materials ;-)

      Plaster:
      Sounds about right with the old roof. Congrats on the newer roof, that is money in the bank.

      Garage roof:
      In my area I'd budget about $3,000 for a new garage roof. If the garage does not have proper gutters, not a bad idea to install.

      If this is all there is on a 90 year old house you found a really good one! Regardless I would try to negotiate and hit them up for a closing cost credit. I would not trust a seller with repairs, better you take the time and have it done the right way after closing without a rush-job premium.

      I typically send the inspection report to the seller and tell the other agent that my buyer is VERY concerned. Then wait for 2 days before sending a list of 5 or 6 bullet points of issues with estimated repair cost (maybe a little on the high side) and ask for a closing cost credit (check with your lender how much max you can receive, you are probably limited to actuals). If they don't go for it, ask for half. If they call your bluff, don't take it personally and close the deal. This is pretty minimal for a 90 year old house!


      This is incredibly useful and reassuring! Thank you for the thorough reply and feedback. Much appreciated. 
      0Reply
  • Ken M.
    Investor · Get yourself trained before doing something inadvisable. · Member since 2024 · 3k+ posts · 1k+ votes
    1y
    Quote from @Edilson Gomes:

    Hi all, 

    Found an older home and really like the location, style and yard. It checks all the boxes for what I was looking for and I think it has a lot of potential. I am in the NE so older homes are common. My offer was accepted at about 500K which was just a few thousands dollars below asking price. This was higher than I wanted because the interior needs remodeling but the seller didn't want to budge on the asking price (owner passed away and the kids are selling). The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k. The inventory in the area is pretty low right now so I like to move forward with the deal if I can but also don't want to screwed. Looking to get some advise on how serious these issues seem to educate myself before speaking with my realtor and the seller's agent. Should consult with some contractors before proceeding ?  Should I ask the seller to fix the issues or offer concessions? What if they refuse? TIA

    Basement 
    Evidence of water penetration and dampness noted at time of inspection. Spalling mortar observed on foundation. Foundation has been painted, and moisture has been trapped behind paint causing it to crack / peel. Also, observed water stains on foundation. The source and amount of water penetration may not be observable at the time of inspection. Consult the owner for a historical perspective regarding previous water penetration. Installation of sump pump system is not to professional standards. Observed no sump cover, no check valve, no dedicated outlet, substandard discharge line, and pump is improperly discharging into town sewer. Consider installing a proper, permanent sump pump system which should include a proper sump with a cover, a pump, a permanent discharge line with a check valve and a dedicated sump pump outlet.

    Plumbing System
    Accessible Water Supply Lines:
    Corrosion and patina observed on fittings and valves. Anticipate repairs and upgrades. Poorly supported and loose water lines noted. Properly secure lines at regular intervals. Also, unused lines have been left opened with only valve stopping water flow. If valve fails, accidental flooding may occur. Consult a plumber regarding repair, upgrade, scope of work, and associated costs.

    Accessible Drain/Waste Lines:
    Type: Cast Iron, Copper
    Please note: Cast iron waste lines have been painted over. This hides true condition of waste pipe. Further evaluation is recommended. There was corrosion and rust on accessible waste lines. Monitor for leaks and anticipate future upgrade.

    Central Heating and Cooling
    Condensate Components
    Components: Gravity Drain Line, Condensate Pump,
    Secondary Drain Line . Observed leak in condensate. Repair / replace where needed.

    2nd Floor Back Bedroom
    Wall Type: Plaster
    Water stained wall areas observed. Consult seller for history. This, most likely, occurred prior to installation of new roof (replaced in 2014 and received A/B rating.) Further investigation is recommended. Further evaluation may reveal concealed damage and other related water penetration issues.

    Garage (detached)
    Moss/Lichen build up observed on roof. Roof surface needs replacement.

    .
    Your comment "The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k."

    A Zillow estimate is an average of the recent sales in the area regardless of condition and typically assume the house is MLS ready. That means "kept up". It sounds like you bought something less than "kept up".

    Everything can be fixed for a price. Water leaks are the most serious to me. I didn't see where you mentioned if the water lines are lead, galvanized iron or copper. I would replace all lines with copper. I didn't see what electrical but I would replace with 200amp copper romex lines. I don't like aluminum wiring or knob & tube. The electrical uses from 90 years ago are very different from todays usage.

    If the walls and attic are not insulated, I'd do that for sure.

    I've done a bunch of houses built in 1900 - 1920. 

    0Reply
    • Edilson Gomes
      OP
      Member since 2020 · 5 posts · 2 votes
      1y
      Quote from @Ken M.:
      Quote from @Edilson Gomes:

      Hi all, 

      Found an older home and really like the location, style and yard. It checks all the boxes for what I was looking for and I think it has a lot of potential. I am in the NE so older homes are common. My offer was accepted at about 500K which was just a few thousands dollars below asking price. This was higher than I wanted because the interior needs remodeling but the seller didn't want to budge on the asking price (owner passed away and the kids are selling). The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k. The inventory in the area is pretty low right now so I like to move forward with the deal if I can but also don't want to screwed. Looking to get some advise on how serious these issues seem to educate myself before speaking with my realtor and the seller's agent. Should consult with some contractors before proceeding ?  Should I ask the seller to fix the issues or offer concessions? What if they refuse? TIA

      Basement 
      Evidence of water penetration and dampness noted at time of inspection. Spalling mortar observed on foundation. Foundation has been painted, and moisture has been trapped behind paint causing it to crack / peel. Also, observed water stains on foundation. The source and amount of water penetration may not be observable at the time of inspection. Consult the owner for a historical perspective regarding previous water penetration. Installation of sump pump system is not to professional standards. Observed no sump cover, no check valve, no dedicated outlet, substandard discharge line, and pump is improperly discharging into town sewer. Consider installing a proper, permanent sump pump system which should include a proper sump with a cover, a pump, a permanent discharge line with a check valve and a dedicated sump pump outlet.

      Plumbing System
      Accessible Water Supply Lines:
      Corrosion and patina observed on fittings and valves. Anticipate repairs and upgrades. Poorly supported and loose water lines noted. Properly secure lines at regular intervals. Also, unused lines have been left opened with only valve stopping water flow. If valve fails, accidental flooding may occur. Consult a plumber regarding repair, upgrade, scope of work, and associated costs.

      Accessible Drain/Waste Lines:
      Type: Cast Iron, Copper
      Please note: Cast iron waste lines have been painted over. This hides true condition of waste pipe. Further evaluation is recommended. There was corrosion and rust on accessible waste lines. Monitor for leaks and anticipate future upgrade.

      Central Heating and Cooling
      Condensate Components
      Components: Gravity Drain Line, Condensate Pump,
      Secondary Drain Line . Observed leak in condensate. Repair / replace where needed.

      2nd Floor Back Bedroom
      Wall Type: Plaster
      Water stained wall areas observed. Consult seller for history. This, most likely, occurred prior to installation of new roof (replaced in 2014 and received A/B rating.) Further investigation is recommended. Further evaluation may reveal concealed damage and other related water penetration issues.

      Garage (detached)
      Moss/Lichen build up observed on roof. Roof surface needs replacement.

      .
      Your comment "The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k."

      A Zillow estimate is an average of the recent sales in the area regardless of condition and typically assume the house is MLS ready. That means "kept up". It sounds like you bought something less than "kept up".

      Everything can be fixed for a price. Water leaks are the most serious to me. I didn't see where you mentioned if the water lines are lead, galvanized iron or copper. I would replace all lines with copper. I didn't see what electrical but I would replace with 200amp copper romex lines. I don't like aluminum wiring or knob & tube. The electrical uses from 90 years ago are very different from todays usage.

      If the walls and attic are not insulated, I'd do that for sure.

      I've done a bunch of houses built in 1900 - 1920. 

      The intake pipes are copper. The majority of the valves were rusted so they will need to be replaced. The inspector gave them a C/D rating so I will need to replace them if the deal goes through. 
      We didn’t see any knob and tube wiring (hopefully nothing inside of the walls). It was updated to romex with a 100 amp breaker. 
      Makes sense that the Zillow estimate are more for a “defect free” home (excluding minor cosmetic items of course). Hopefully the seller realizes this and we can agree on a fair price or I might walk out of the deal. I already felt as if I was overpaying without the issues. 
      1Reply
    • Marcus Auerbach
      Investor · Milwaukee - Mequon, WI · Member since 2010 · 5k+ posts · 7k+ votes
      1y
      Quote from @Edilson Gomes:The intake pipes are copper. The majority of the valves were rusted so they will need to be replaced. The inspector gave them a C/D rating so I will need to replace them if the deal goes through. 
      We didn’t see any knob and tube wiring (hopefully nothing inside of the walls). It was updated to romex with a 100 amp breaker. 
      Makes sense that the Zillow estimate are more for a “defect free” home (excluding minor cosmetic items of course). Hopefully the seller realizes this and we can agree on a fair price or I might walk out of the deal. I already felt as if I was overpaying without the issues. 

      Emotions and money don't mix well, ask any stock broker. Better ask your agent to prepare a CMA so you know where fair market value is then having feelings about it.

      You are likely putting too much weight on the inspection and I don't say that because I want you to buy the house, but because I have seen too many first-timers self-sabotage over peanuts.

      The real question is, in 10 years from now, will you be happy you bought this property given the location, size and style? Odds are you won't even remember the inspection details.

      1Reply
  • Chris SeveneyBusiness Member
    Moderator
    Investor · VA · Member since 2015 · 21k+ posts · 19k+ votes
    1y
    Quote from @Edilson Gomes:

    Hi all, 

    Found an older home and really like the location, style and yard. It checks all the boxes for what I was looking for and I think it has a lot of potential. I am in the NE so older homes are common. My offer was accepted at about 500K which was just a few thousands dollars below asking price. This was higher than I wanted because the interior needs remodeling but the seller didn't want to budge on the asking price (owner passed away and the kids are selling). The Zillow estimate for the home is around 500k. The inventory in the area is pretty low right now so I like to move forward with the deal if I can but also don't want to screwed. Looking to get some advise on how serious these issues seem to educate myself before speaking with my realtor and the seller's agent. Should consult with some contractors before proceeding ?  Should I ask the seller to fix the issues or offer concessions? What if they refuse? TIA

    Basement 
    Evidence of water penetration and dampness noted at time of inspection. Spalling mortar observed on foundation. Foundation has been painted, and moisture has been trapped behind paint causing it to crack / peel. Also, observed water stains on foundation. The source and amount of water penetration may not be observable at the time of inspection. Consult the owner for a historical perspective regarding previous water penetration. Installation of sump pump system is not to professional standards. Observed no sump cover, no check valve, no dedicated outlet, substandard discharge line, and pump is improperly discharging into town sewer. Consider installing a proper, permanent sump pump system which should include a proper sump with a cover, a pump, a permanent discharge line with a check valve and a dedicated sump pump outlet.

    Plumbing System
    Accessible Water Supply Lines:
    Corrosion and patina observed on fittings and valves. Anticipate repairs and upgrades. Poorly supported and loose water lines noted. Properly secure lines at regular intervals. Also, unused lines have been left opened with only valve stopping water flow. If valve fails, accidental flooding may occur. Consult a plumber regarding repair, upgrade, scope of work, and associated costs.

    Accessible Drain/Waste Lines:
    Type: Cast Iron, Copper
    Please note: Cast iron waste lines have been painted over. This hides true condition of waste pipe. Further evaluation is recommended. There was corrosion and rust on accessible waste lines. Monitor for leaks and anticipate future upgrade.

    Central Heating and Cooling
    Condensate Components
    Components: Gravity Drain Line, Condensate Pump,
    Secondary Drain Line . Observed leak in condensate. Repair / replace where needed.

    2nd Floor Back Bedroom
    Wall Type: Plaster
    Water stained wall areas observed. Consult seller for history. This, most likely, occurred prior to installation of new roof (replaced in 2014 and received A/B rating.) Further investigation is recommended. Further evaluation may reveal concealed damage and other related water penetration issues.

    Garage (detached)
    Moss/Lichen build up observed on roof. Roof surface needs replacement.


     you are buying a home 90 years old so there will most likely be moisture etc. in basement. for me the things I would fix is the pipe leaks and cap them off and the sump pump.

    Those are items that I would want taken care of the rest comes with the home in my opinion (which again just my opinion)

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  • Costin I.
    Rental Property Investor · Round Rock, TX · Member since 2016 · 1k+ posts · 971 votes
    1y

    ISSUE BREAKDOWN + PRIORITY SCALE

    1. Basement Water Penetration & Foundation Concerns (High Priority)

    • Seriousness: This is your biggest concern. Water in the basement is never a small issue.

    • What it could mean: Future mold, foundation deterioration, ongoing repair costs.

    • Fixability: Yes, but potentially expensive ($5K–$20K depending on scope).

    • Must-do: Bring in a basement waterproofing contractor ASAP for a professional opinion. If they suggest French drains, interior sealing, or major sump pump work—those are major costs.

    • Red flag: Sump pump discharging into town sewer is usually illegal and a code violation.

    💡 Ask for:

    • Credit at closing for repairs or price reduction

    • Professional fix before closing (less common with estate sales, but ask)

    2. Plumbing Issues (Moderate to High Priority)

    • Seriousness: Not critical today, but very important long-term. Cast iron pipes = 50-100 yr lifespan, and these may be nearing end of life.

    • Concerns: Corroded waste lines = leaks, backups, expensive fixes. Poor water line support = potential bursts.

    • Fixability: Yes. But replacing waste stacks or long runs of pipe can get really pricey (think $5K–$15K or more).

    • Must-do: Licensed plumber evaluation before closing.

    💡 Ask for:

    • Concession or credit

    • Specific inspection follow-up

    • Repair priority for safety issues (like unsecured/unused water lines)

    3. Condensate Leak (HVAC) (Low to Moderate Priority)

    • Seriousness: Mild compared to other issues. Could just be a simple clog or failed pump.

    • Fixability: Yes, usually <$1K.

    • Must-do: HVAC pro should confirm there’s no water damage or mold as a result.

    4. Wall Staining in Bedroom (Medium Priority)

    • Seriousness: Possible past leak, but if roof was replaced in 2014 and there’s been no issue since, you’re likely okay.

    • Fixability: Yes, but cutting open plaster to inspect isn’t cheap or easy.

    • Must-do: Ask seller for documentation or evidence roof leak was resolved. Consider camera moisture inspection in wall if possible.

    5. Garage Roof (Detached) (Low Priority)

    • Seriousness: Low unless garage is being used as a workspace or finished area.

    • Fixability: Easy roof job, probably $3K–$7K depending on size/material.

    • Must-do: Budget for it in year 1.


    What To Do Next

    1. Bring in Contractors Before Closing

    Absolutely. You need real-world quotes before you're fully committed:

    • Basement waterproofing specialist

    • Licensed plumber

    • General contractor (if you’re planning multiple remodels)

    • Optional: HVAC tech for peace of mind

    2. Negotiate Concessions or Credits

    Since this is an estate sale, the sellers might not do the work—but they might give you cash back at closing instead. This is very common in situations like this.

    You can say something like:

    If they refuse, you decide whether you’re okay absorbing those costs post-closing, or if it’s a deal breaker.

    3. Get It in Writing

    Everything should go through your agent and be documented: repairs, credits, seller disclosures (like the history of water damage or roof leaks).


     Summary

    • Yes, consult contractors before proceeding.

    • Ask for credits, not repairs, especially in an estate sale.

    • Biggest red flags are water issues and potential foundation damage—get that reviewed fast.

    • If they refuse concessions, you’re not screwed—but factor those repair costs into your overall budget. This could still be a great buy if you love the house and can afford the repairs.

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