All Forum Posts by: Collin Maas

I put a lot of value in the quality of the estimate and scope letter they create. Does it say "materials and labor" and give a number?  I pass on that one.  I like to see bulleted items describing how they are going to perform the work.  For a sewer line replacement I'd like to see something like:

* Excavate and remove and dispose of  X number of feet of sewer line from extending from the house to main in street

*Furnish and install 6" of compacted subbase (sand)

*Furnish and install X feet of 6" PVC sched 80 

You get the idea.  I look at those items. Are my quotes apples to apples.  if a quote is missing something call the contractor and ask specifically if that item is included. If a contractor wont do this pass on them.

If you want a contractor that will provide you excellent service forever be ready to pay them when they finish the work as described.  Stopping by with some Gatorade for the crew on a hot day doesn't hurt either.

I'm not an electrician, but I've installed enough that has passes inspections.  If you have GFCI and only one panel, I believe you are fine, per Wisconsin code.  Texas maybe different  Again, quick call to a local electrician might answer some questions for you.

I was in a hot attic yesterday that was properly vented (6 years as commercial roofer installing all types of roof systems). This was Wisconsin, I can only imagine how hot an attic is in Texas. A hot attic is not a sign a roof isn't properly vented, an attic is going to be hot on a hot day.  If this is all the inspector gave you to determine there is no venting, I'd have to question the inspectors understanding of roof systems.

I have some questions on the inspection.

1) I don't believe there is such a thing as an arc flash breaker, there is an arc fault breaker, I'm going to assume that's what he meant. Exactly what needs the AFCI breaker at the panel? is this run to outside, bathroom or kitchen? are there GFCI outlets in those locations? You may be fine.  

2) You said this is a single family home.  I'm guessing there is only one panel in the house.  If so this is main panel and grounds and neutrals can be wired to the same bus bar.  I know that's how the panel at my house is done.  Sub panel is a different story, I believe. Might be worth a call to a local electrician.

3) Can't offer much advice on that one.  I guess be prepared to replace it I'd budget between $1500-$2000.  It could go tomorrow or it may last another 10 years

4) Any idea what's causing the mold- what's the moisture source? Poor insulation in the wall at that area causing condensation or possibly a leaky drain or supply connection.  Could be a lot of others.  It would be good to understand what is happening there to better understand the possible costs.

5) Can the toilet and faucet simply be tightened? There should be blocking behind the shower faucet handle, so that could be a problem.  Is it accessible from the wall behind the shower, sometimes there is an access panel?

6) Roofs can be vented in a lot of ways, pod vents, ridge vents or gable vents, can you confirm none of them are in use.  Some roofs don't have venting, spray foam is installed in the roof joists and the roof will stay cold without venting.  The "no roof vents in attic" isn't enough info to work off of.  Adding vents could be a simple fix, and my guess is there maybe some venting there that the inspector didn't catch.

I'd get another opinion on some of those things before terminating.  My skepticism of home inspectors is probably showing a bit.  Overall I think they provide a really valuable service to buyers that are unfamiliar with the construction process but sometimes those reports come off as a little "doomsday".  Could be a great purchase that just needs a couple of issues addressed.

Tom,

Bought and sold a handful of houses but have never had anyone from the city building department involved.  Went to the city of Lincoln Park website, and sure enough it appears that they require someone from the city do an inspection- I always learn something new in these posts.  I found their "exterior inspection checklist" and put the link below.  Looks like you will be expected to fix any code violations they find.  I don't think you will get the city to do any sort of an upgraded inspection.  You will likely have to get a private inspector for that.

https://www.citylp.com/residen...

Question for the BP Community - Is it becoming more common for the city building departments to require an inspection during a real estate transaction?

I agree with others that you first need to determine if the water is hard.  It's a simple test. you can take a vial of water to a water care company and they should be able to tell you immediately how many grains of hardness it has.  Soft is considered as 0-3 grains of hardness. As others have said, hard water can be extremely hard on water heaters, washers, and dishwashers.

You also need to determine if the house is plumbed for a softener.  If its a new home it likely is.  However, in an older home getting it plumbed for a softener can be a big deal.  Sometimes it makes sense to only soften the hot side.

Thinking about this a bit more. Skip the roof drain.  See if you can find a roofer to price the following scope of work

-Remove existing flat roof system to deck and replace any damaged decking or structural members

-Remove all roofing material & wood siding from side walls replace any damaged wall sheathing or structural members

-Provide new through wall scupper at location of existing downspout. Rework existing downspouts to work with new scupper

-Provide new tapered polyisocyanurate (also called ISO -very common roof insulation) to provide drainage to new through wall roof scupper.    You could also ask for a base layer of ISO to provide extra R-value

-Install new fully adhered 60mil EPDM roof membrane. Roof membrane should be install up side wall on all 4 walls and terminated at the top with termination bar and water stop. (roofer may want to use some of the other abbreviations for roof membrane TPO or PVC -they'll work fine also. I just always found EPDM to be the best bang for the buck) 

Getting rid of everything wet should solve the mold problem, moving the water out of that area should keep it dry. 

I think you should see estimates between $5k-$10k.  I'd be just as weary with an estimate of less than 5 as I would be with one over 10.  I'd be prepared for some extras also could be very rotted under there.

Good luck with whatever direction you go

My guess is more water will pool on the flat roof than that little downspout can handle.  Not sure how many major rain events you get in Oklahoma, but if its one of those several inch per hour types, I bet you have several inches of standing water on that roof. Possible solution- add a roof drain in the flat roof.  This will require completely removing the flat roof portion and resloping to the new drain not to mention a bit of plumbing.  I'd recommend using EPDM (rubber roofing) run it up the side walls all the way to the pitched roofs.  Still going to be a bit of cost and you will have no idea what condition the roof decking and walls are in until you open them up.  

I thought the estimate was really high until I saw the picture (I'm an ex roofing contractor).  There are a lot of roof planes that are converging at one location.  I'm guessing it holds water along the wall.  I'd prepare yourself for some rot and the need to do more than just fix the roof. Guessing that's what led to the $30k estimate.  One of your previous post said that was the weirdest roof they'd seen in 10 years- I'll second that.  Can you post more pics? maybe from the roof looking at the window?

I think it might be worth your while to open the wall up at one of the brackets and see how high they go up and how they are terminated.  Is the wall steel stud or wood frame? looks like the wall is sitting on a concrete slab.  Thinking you maybe able to attach the wall to the floor using a different application and remove the brackets. I might try removing some of the gyp at the base of the wall and trying to run a tapcon through the base plate. Its going to be at a pretty flat angle to keep the wall board removal to a minimum.  Also might be able to do it with something powder actuated.  If you keep it low enough you may be able to cover the hole with the base trim.

I say pull the base.  I notice every house I'm in where this wasn't done, just doesn't look correct to me.  This is great learner project.  Some things I have learned

Use caution pulling the base- you may damage the wall as you pull it off.  I like to put an old drywall trowel between the wall and base to pry against.

Pull the nails through the back.  Get a nail pulling pliers I use mine all the time. Think of it as an investment.  If you do crack or break a piece of trim don't panic- glue it back together I've even been successful with just dry fitting them together and nailing in place

I like to under cut the wall so the new floor will fit underneath the drywall or plaster. Use an oscillating tool.  Under cutting the wall let you fit the flooring under the wall (keep the 1/4" space for expansion) and the trim will sit on top nicely. Put the oscillating tool on top of a scrap piece of flooring and cut the entire perimeter of the room-good time to get the door jambs as mentioned above.  this will be a bit of a dusty mess but worth the effort IMO.

My biggest problem with the LVP is putting in the first couple of rows as it likes to move around.  I like to screw in the first plank in a location that will be covered by the trim-take the screws out after the floor is completely done.  Used hot glue on a concrete slab install and "knocked" it out when finished. Screws worked better if you have a wood subfloor.

Use a finish nailer to reinstall the trim in it's original location. 

Think you will be happier that you took the extra time.