All Forum Posts by: Joy D.
Joy D. has started 1 posts and replied 16 times.
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
There is one unethical hack I've seen for the floor issue -- calling the garage conversion a "storage conversion" (not classifying it for living purposes). I think it depends on the department and could lead to liability issues, but I've seen it done.
Agree. I would never do it. But this is Florida. Most people in my local area don't even have their ADUs permitted, so even a storage conversion permit is a step up :D
Haha! True words! THIS is FLORIDA, and it's hard times out here. I'll probably be one of a tiny handful of permitted garage conversions in my neighborhood.
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
Quote from @Joy D.:
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
Def worth a shot to save 4k. Only other thing I can think of that would constitute a structural mod would be if the floor of the garage needed to be raised and if it were to be done via framing vs overpour. Any time I've done an addition, I had to raise the floor to match the rest of the house.
There is one unethical hack I've seen for the floor issue -- calling the garage conversion a "storage conversion" (not classifying it for living purposes). I think it depends on the department and could lead to liability issues, but I've seen it done.
The homeowner / contractor trying to save money on a project will go the framing route. I always opt for overpour, but it can be quite costly. Concrete work is expensive.
Quote from @Bruce Woodruff:
Quote from @Joy D.:
If you go the wood framing route you will have to rip the joists that sit on the concrete because garage floors are built with a slope (for water runoff). This can be a PITA unless you have a good Contractor/Framer. You'll also have to seal the existing concrete with some sort of vapor barrier.
Easier to just go the concrete route....
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
Def worth a shot to save 4k. Only other thing I can think of that would constitute a structural mod would be if the floor of the garage needed to be raised and if it were to be done via framing vs overpour. Any time I've done an addition, I had to raise the floor to match the rest of the house.
There is one unethical hack I've seen for the floor issue -- calling the garage conversion a "storage conversion" (not classifying it for living purposes). I think it depends on the department and could lead to liability issues, but I've seen it done.
Henry, your "We're not building the Empire State building" comment took me out! LOL! Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the process and for outlining some of the mandatory things that code departments will likely need across the board, regardless of where you are. And it's so helpful you shared how it went with your drafter and the items they needed to get you going. I appreciate you simplifying what can be a complex process. I think I'm getting the gist of this... I'm going to find out from the city: if I need a survey for my garage project, if raising the floor constitutes a structural change (city requires I elevate the floor), and I want solid confirmation on whether signatures and/or seals are needed for my modest garage remodel.
Thanks for the intel, Henry!
Quote from @Jeff Hagen:
Quote from @Henry T.:
Piece of cake. I've done this at a few properties. my last project I hired a drafter rather than an architect. His drawings sailed right thru the permit office. There was no structural changes involved, so no structural engineer. The city even had a little handout for garage conversion, pertaining to achieving the proper R value for an in place slab. For cost reasons I called it a remodel rather than an ADU. This saved around $50k of charges for sewer impact fees and separate electric meter(who wants another bill? not me). You can buy these little meters that attach to your sub panel, if you want to know how much elec the unit is using. My biggest surprise on this last project was that they allowed standard 1/2" sheetrock for fire wall. In the past it's always been 5/8". I was stunned. Not saying you should, check first of course.
Depends heavily on the AHJ where you're located and whether or not you have a pre-existing relationship with them. Since you're speaking to a 50k impact fee, that sounds like you're on the west coast. Here in FL, you can build out an ADU for under 3k in total fees. The electric company installed the new meter for free after giving me a credit for adding laying the conduit required for the 200amp to 400amp upgrade.
As for the 1/2" (non fire code) gyp, my understanding of the code is that a 1 hour rated assembly is required between "dwelling units." However, if you labeled it as an addition (not a separate dwelling unit), code only requires 30 minute fire assembly (1/2 gyp) between sleeping units (bedrooms). But for the safety of the occupants, the up charge to go to 5/8" is pretty minimal.
Whoa! I didn't know I could meet with the inspectors! And I already have both an existing exterior side door and a big window that is the same size as the windows in my bed room, so I'm assuming they all meet.the egress reqs. Jeeze Jeff, you are a life-saver!! Oh and yes... they told me for sure that I must raise the floor per my city's requirements... is that considered a structural change?