All Forum Posts by: Jerry V.

Sergey is right (above).. that is usually the best course of action.  Example:  IF the property needs a new roof, a hands off approach (or easy way out) would be to just Insist on them replacing the roof before you buy it.  Weeeeeelllll... think about that.  They are going to find the person/company that: Can do it fast (if a person/company isn't busy, there's a reason for it!) but mostly they will find THE CHEAPEST they can get!  NOT what you are wanting to buy into for sure!

Whatever is done, make sure they have receeipts, any warranties transfer over to the new buyer, etc etc ...

Hope that helps.  Message me with any specific questions.  (and fyi: the roof dip could be for a bunch of different reasons. Search on the forums for that (roof dip;  roof dipping; dip in roof), I've explained in detail about that before already)

Quote from @Ronaldo Marion:

Quote from @Terry Hollinsworth:

Quote from @Ronaldo Marion:

Likely scenerio: The roofer solicited home owner stating he could get the property owner a "free roof" by negotiating with the insurance company then waiving the deductible (illegal). Roofing contractor then proceeds to inflate his estimate working hard to extract as much as possible from the insurance carrier. Roofer finally get the insurance co to issue payment and now property owner has been paid out but realizes he can get the actual work done for much less than the check in hand. Now property owner wants go with another cheaper roofer or patch the roof and get something else fixed or just pocket the money. Basically double crossing the roofer than worked hard and got the claim approved in the first place. But little does the homeowner know he signed a AOB (assignment of benefits) that is more than likely iron-clad and essentially forces the homeowner to use the original contractor to perform the work. If homeowner doesnt use the original contractor he's likely going to end up with a lien on the property.

 ok, I got other bids on my roof. They're significantly lower than original roofer. Almost 9K lower for same work. I understand taking profit but c'mon thats just crazy. I'd go with original roofer if he came down on price just a couple of thousand dollars. But, he's not budging .

 Your dilemma is that the $21,000 insurance co check with your name on it actually belongs to the original roofer. You see you signed over your benefits (the $21,000) check when you signed the AOB so if you do anything other than hand that check over to that roofer and have your roof fixed you're actually in breach of contract. 

You only really have 2 options:

1. Tell insurance company price is inflated and the roofer is a scammer, they will cancel the claim and allow the roof replacement to be repriced. This doesn't really help you. You'll likely end up with A LOT more eyes on your claim. This will likely end up with a poor outcome for you.

2. If you have another roofer that will do the job for $11,000 and you are confident that the quote is firm. Then you effectively have $9000 (the difference between the two quotes) to bargain with. You might offer the original roofer $4000-5000 to cancel the AOB and walk away. Knowing how profitable roofing is I doubt he would walk for less than $5000. Note: THIS IS ILLEGAL. I AM NOT ADVISING YOU TO TAKE THIS COURSE OF ACTION.

Roofing is THAT profitable !?!?  LMAO ... Geeezzzz, if I/we were scamming everyone and/or perhaps working for yourself maybe?   If that's the case, and you pay that well... call us!!! :D

William (and others) Per your reply in the one post about the ongoing Roofing situation they have:

Most roofing co's have Salesmen that, need to make money! lol (we don't have Salesmen at all) So they door knock in planned out neighborhoods (mostly residential, sometimes even commercial areas). They convince the Client allow them to get on the roof to see if there is any damage... and wow, of course they find enough damage that should warrant an insurance claim! hahaha (even when most times there are NO marks at all from hail and no wind damage (the only reasons ins co's pay to replace a roof, not longevity)). So then the Salesmen or Co usually runs with that, getting the ins info from the Client, making the claim, getting (or Trying to get it) approved, then ... saying to the Client, "ok! We made the claim, they approved it and said it would run $20K. They are paying $15K and your part is $5K, let's get this going so when should we start!?" (sigh, it happens all the time)

CORRECT! For small items, like a few shingles or a single leak (commercial roofs), just get it fixed. No sense in trying to make an insurance claim for that. Unless you are TRYING to get the whole roof approved for replacement. :P

As discussed in several other forums or Discussions, the ins co's ARE being more critical now regarding roofs/roofs age. The common theme now is when a roof gets to be 15yrs old, then they are saying mostly: We will still cover the property, but not the roof! 2)We will not cover the property at all because the roof is older than 15yrs old. In both cases, it's getting ridiculous.. the Ins Co's wanted us (the roofing industry) to come up with better and longer lasting materials, so we did! (Class 4/hail resistant shingles and such) But now... WHAT!?!? lol Oh, State Farm is one that is NOT cancelling policies for older roofs. But, they are a different story by themselves. :P

I hope this info helps. Send a message to me directly with questions or look us up online! :D

Quote from @Matthew Paul:

Quote from @Terry Hollinsworth:

Quote from @Kim Meredith Hampton:

 Yes I signed the agreement. However my wife didn't. Both of our names are on the deed and on the insurance check. Can we get out of this contract if my wife didn't sign?

 No , you would be sole responsible for payment . The contractors price couldnt be that much higher , insurance companies know the local rates . You also signed a legal binding contract . Odds are that if you cancel and have someone else do the work , you may still have to pay the first contractor . If you go to court you need a lawyer so does the contractor . This will cost you money , legit contractors have almost iron clad contracts . Can you afford to take a loss? 

Matthew, (and others) it really DOES depend on the state... Ex: here in TX, IF no work has been done yet, 90-95% of the judges here would say that it is not binding or can't be enforced.  But yes, it really depends on how it is worded.  And, up to them (judge) to determine... is filing a claim for the Client considered starting the work!? lol   Tomatoe - Tomato  :D

Terry, just replied to you about the claim and all in another post you had (about all this)

Answers:  There are taxes on "materials" that are done... and the O/P is only applicable if, the Contractor is doing 3 or more different trades on a project. I.e. Roof, gutters, siding, fencing ... BUT, the insurance companies don't always pay O/P now!

As said in my other post, call us ... we're in your area! (Dallas, TX area -  J's Roofing)

I've explained a lot about this in previous posts but for now ... IF you signed their Contact to do the work, for xxxx amount, OR for the Amount that the insurance will give then ... yes, it's time to talk with a legal advisor. (not sure if you signed, and they've already done the work, or what stage it's in now...) Remember, you signed their Contract or Agreement to go ahead with the claim... They did the initial leg work (which you should have been doing), got it approved, and now they are wanting to do the work, as you agreed too!  (I'm not for this, just stating facts)  So yes, as stated above, look into the verbiage of what you signed.  (but they sound like slime-balls ... trying to make someone feel guilty for "getting them" a small $ amount!?)  That extra $ amount is nothing compared to most deals we work for our clients!

The more important question is ... why do ins co's pay $21K if the job would only cost $11K?  hmmmm.... (body shops run the same way!)  Answer (which not many will admit too) is that they are willing to pay "up to" to $21K to get the work done.  So of course all Contractors (I am one as well (a roofing Contractor), with J's Roofing) want to do the work FOR that amount!  But be careful, because if you submit an amount lower than the $21K, say another quote for $12K, then ... the insurance co says "ok" and, they re-work the $ amounts down to 12K for the job, take out your deductible (let's say $3K) and now give you $9K for it all!  So in that regard, the job is covered!  Your side of things (Deductible) is $3K+$9K (from them)= $12K for the job to get done.  As you see, It cam be a balancing act at times!!

In the end, yes ... DO get other quotes.  Go with a person(company) that has longevity in the area, provides good warranties on their work,  Knows how to work the paperwork to get you the "Depreciation" amount back in the end (that they held back, until the job is done) but also does the work for a fair QUOTED price via a written Estimate. (Wow, that sounds like US! lolol)

There are many many nuances and different scenereo's to all this but again, you really need to: make sure of what you signed, check the contract laws in your state, and hopefully be able to go with someone that doesn't use door knockers!  (we don't) :)

If you have specific questions or if I can help somehow do send a message.  OHHHh (I literally just saw this) .... you are in our Dallas area!  Call me/us !!!! LMAO  

Quote from @Nathan Nye:

Quote from @Jerry V.:

Sorry we're not closer!  But, we could use a break from this extreme heat down here in the Dallas, TX area.  Fly us up there and I'm sure we can work something out! lol

Keep in mind, materials prices are still crazy right now, and still going up.  Lumber seems to be coming down now (thank goodness) but all other things not, they still keep going up! (we got notice of ANOTHER price increase from our suppliers in early August!)  :((

Biggest thing to look for, NOT the cheapest, but FAIR pricing, and ... the Warranty they give!  And if it's a 1yr old company, giving a 10yr warranty... ummmm, no thanks! :P

Good luck and let me know if you have questions I can help with.  (J's Roofing)

Thanks for the information! I have already gotten one quote that was outrageous so I am hoping to find something a little less but I will be sure to avoid the fishy-looking companies! Hopefully, prices will start to come down soon...

Nathan, sorry to say, material prices are not coming "down" anytime soon. :(  I/we are surprised that lumber has FINALLY started coming down. (they planted a LOT, but didn't think it would catch up this quickly to help supply).  Wish you luck on the project!

Sorry we're not closer!  But, we could use a break from this extreme heat down here in the Dallas, TX area.  Fly us up there and I'm sure we can work something out! lol

Keep in mind, materials prices are still crazy right now, and still going up.  Lumber seems to be coming down now (thank goodness) but all other things not, they still keep going up! (we got notice of ANOTHER price increase from our suppliers in early August!)  :((

Biggest thing to look for, NOT the cheapest, but FAIR pricing, and ... the Warranty they give!  And if it's a 1yr old company, giving a 10yr warranty... ummmm, no thanks! :P

Good luck and let me know if you have questions I can help with.  (J's Roofing)

Not enough info and too many variable to have a definitive answer for you, but ... some options (or thoughts):

IF it's older construction, you could have: Wide rafter spacing (24" o.c. instead of 18"o.c.) and thinner decking (like 1/4" plywood instead of 1/2" (7/16" really) OSB), so your going to have some waves over time!

Or, house has settle and thus 1 rafter is a bit higher than the next, making a wave or dip.

Or, yes perhaps that spot there is a weak area, and has or MAY allow water to get to the decking... IF so, there are some fixes...

Fixes:  I knowledgeable roofer can seal the shingle joints (UNDER the shingles, not on top) and thus no water will be able to get underneath anything.  It's the easiest and cheapest way.

OR; a 2x4 (2x6?) support can be installed between the rafters in the questionable attic, thus raising it up and supporting it at the same time.  But may not be able to get to or work that area needed.

OR; yes the shingles can be removed, replace the decking, then install under-layment and shingles.  IF only replacing ONE rafter-rafter piece of decking, MUST install a support under it, or it WILL sag over time.  Or you can install a longer piece of decking, (4-6ft) so it is rigid enough to stay stiff and not sag.  (this is probably the most $$$ option)

No, any work/job from 10+ years ago will not be warrantied (MOST times).  Heck, most roofing companies aren't around for 10+ years! (though we've been in business for 20+years now! yeaa! lol) And don't bother with insurance... because remember, any $ Under our deductible amount, is our responsibility.

1st option) Your probably looking at $150-250.  Option 2) $250-400  Option 3) $350+

Let me know if you have more questions.  (you post a lot of "what should I do" questions eh!?) ...

Can't open or zoom in to the pics but ... lighter tan/brown for the left one, med-gray or Weathered Wood (very common) for the right one.

There's usually no price difference on Colors (SOME times, the solid Blacks or Greens may cost more, because they have to add more dye into the mix to make them and all) BUT, the "availability" of them (recently) DOES make a big difference it seems.  So you'll probably get pricing all over the place.  And there are 7 different manufacturers of shingles, with different color options.  The most common color being the Weathered Wood.  Depending on the manufacturer, that WWood option could be "blaaaa" or actually look nice.

For helping with heat, many make "Cool" color options.  Yes, they are lighter in color but they also use specially coated granuals (3M?), that are supposed to resist heat gain more etc.  So yes, of course they cost more than your average shingle! :P

If you have specific questions or that, just send me a message.  Happy to help.