All Forum Posts by: Larry Yinger

Everything here is like "find a good local contractor".  Not very DIY.

Anyway, Karen, if you are replacing the underground line have them use HDPE.  You'll never needed with it again.

I don't understand why DD is suggesting armaflex for the installation but you don't "need foam insulation" for a buried line.

Long story short, fused HDPE pipe is the way to go.  Faster, much cheaper, and more durable.

Yes.  Lubricate it with something like WD-40.  More specifically, they make a can that is more gelatinous and elk stay put longer. 

You should be able to get a tank tightness test done.  Basically the company will close off the known penetrations and slightly pressurize the tank.  If fuel oil escapes, the tank has a leak.  Do not trust water in the tank as being indicative of a leak.

Second, if you did have a leaky tank, you could replace the tank or put a new tank in the basement (if possible).  Switching fuel sources could be costly and that is something you will need to run the numbers on.

You'll likely get a better product with the rubber roof (EPDM).  The multi-ply is a built-up roof (BUR) but better than the old tar and asphalt as the asphalt is reinforced with SBS.  Both roofs are suitable for your climate.

If you access the roof frequently, beware that the rubber roof is more prone to puncture than the BUR.

Either way, you should take two more estimates on whichever style you decide.  If you are still having difficulty deciding the value of one over the other, have the roofers explain why they quoted the products.

Good luck.

These guys detailing scope of work have it right on.  There needs to be zero ambiguity on the contract.  If there is ambiguity in the contract, it will open you up for change orders.  You can easily protect yourself by providing a detailed scope of work in your contact.  If schedule is important you should also include milestone dates in your scope of work.  Milestone dates should also be detailed.

Hi Ramon,

The hardware would be a specific question depending on what you have and what you are replacing with.

As for which to replace, I would think they should all be the same style or all mismatched.  Not half and half.

Solid doors are much nicer and preferable to hollow core doors.

Thanks to all for the welcome and well wishes.

Feel free to reach out should you have any mechanical questions.

It sounds to me like you pretty much answered your own question.  Get a trustworthy GC and let them handle the subs.  Their fee, if fair, is well worth it to reduce your headaches.

Seems like some here have offered their assistance.  Bonus, you might get another reliable contractor for future consideration on other projects.

You could spend as much as $5k removing and disposing that slab.  For two reasons, I would let the next owner determine what to do with it.  First, what if they want the slab, or part of it?  They will see this as a cost.  Second, and I suppose directly related the other, the slab is worth more as it sits than torn up.  It should only be seen as an improvement.

I'm with Rob if you really need to do something to spruce it up.  Though I would go a different route and use a deck-over type coating.

It may be worth it to look into boiler replacement.  There are such things as 90%+ efficient boilers.  Some even rate at 98%.  If the boilers in your units are older, say pre-90s, the payback on the replacement could be relatively quick.

Quick, dirty math here, but $5-10k per unit wouldn't be unreasonable.  You would have to do all of the units that are fed by the same boiler, or you will still need to run your boiler.  So assume 40 are fed by one boiler, you'd be looking at $200-400k.  I would think you'd not only need to add ductwork to a space that presumably doesn't have any, but also run electrical circuits the new unit.  A boiler replacement could be had for a fraction of that.  Payback could be as quick as ten years with a service life far greater than that.

With that being said and knowing nothing of your system, you could do different things as well.  You could convert your boiler system to solar hot water which would pay back incredibly fast.  You might also look into variable refrigerant flow (VRF) if you want to add individual heat and cooling to the units as well.  VRF would likely require electrical upgrades.

More details (steam or hot water boiler, mechanical space in units, etc...) would give us a better idea of how to offer guidance.

My suggestion, talk to a reputable commercial mechanical contractor (or three) and have them propose to you options that list payback durations.  I don't think if I were in your shoes, that I could make a case for adding a ducted system.  I'd be happy to look things over for you as well.  That is the world I live in.