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All Forum Posts by: Account Closed

Account Closed has started 31 posts and replied 197 times.

Post: Potential first MFH purchase

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

Sounds like a decent deal. price is a little high compared to rents in my opinion but how you describe the area, the value is probably justified.  

208k sounds better, would be 1.5%/month. but again, how nice the area is does have a cost so if thats the best you can get then probably would go with it. 

Post: mechanical lien in IL

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

i deal with this for a living, im an estimator/project manager for a national commercial contracting company. 

dont worry about people liening your property. allot of newby contractors like to throw that word around because they have never actually been through the process. 

BEFORE they lien the property, you will send them a simple one or two paragraph letter stating what work is outside of the written expectations and you will reference the agreement. You will state the amount you are holding. you dont need to state how you came up with the amount but it needs to be reflective of the incorrect work. aka: it will cost $XXX amount for me to hire another contractor to come in and fix this so I held $XXX.

IF/WHEN they lien your property: you will send them a letter demanding them to sue you. at that point the clock starts ticking, they have 30 days to sue you or you can have the lien removed AND they are responsible for any costs associated with you taking the time to write the letter, find a different contractor, waste your gas, etc... make sure you withheld enough :)

if they do sue you, as long as you sent them that letter before they file the lien then it will simply be a matter of the court agreeing that you were reasonable with the amount you withheld. by the way, if possible, make sure to hold enough that it goes above $10k. this means it cannot go to small claims court in IL, much more difficult to sue someone above that amount without having to lawyer up at which point they will likely just try to agree to an amount with you in my experience.

Simple way to avoid all of this: have your expectations clear and in writing, like you mentioned AND add in Inspections/milestones. this protects both of you from having to deal with this crap. example: scrape garage: inspection, paint coat #1: inspection, paint coat #2:inspection. agree to a basic schedule of values for each item prior to start of work, scraping is worth XXX, etc.. this allows you to pay based off of milestones/work completed.

Some items you should be around to inspect during install to catch problems while they are occuring, its good project management, like tile being installed poorly, although that does not change the responsibility for the subcontractor to install the tile per your written expectations.

if you notice in commercial construction there is an inspector onsite making daily logs every day. his logs describe what was done, and anything that was not done in accordance with the specifications. this is for a reason, they can be used in a court as a reference.

Part of the reason for inspections is to allow the contractor to receive partial payments for work accepted up to that point. most jobs its hard for small contractors to cash flow an entire project, needs to atleast be payments made every 30 days for work accepted but they can be daily if you choose as long as it is based on the schedule of values for work completed. (very common to hold retainage of 10% of every payment until all work is complete, site has been cleaned up and accepted. you would need to state the retainage in the contract.

This is why I prefer to write my own contracts. you dont have to be a lawyer to write them up, there are plenty of examples out there that can help. they dont need to be huge, even the back of a napkin can be contractually binding if enough detail is provided. just a couple pages, im sure once you read some examples you will enjoy writing it. then when you have a good one written up you can always reuse, just need to change the "Scope" section of the contract. one thing ive noticed, keep the contracts short, too many pages simply scares off small time contractors and really it only needs to be a couple pages to be covered for most residential projects.

Post: 50% rule question

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

@Simon W. well... i bought it just over a month ago and have another month or so of renovation. so right now theres no cashflow :)

when evaluating a property for purchase: You use the 50% rule, then the other 50% you take away your financing costs and what you are left with is your cashflow. 

my question, is what type of financing should an investor use, as a rule of thumb, as part of that evaluation? I used an interest only LOC in my purchase calculation, maybe I shouldnt of but it was a cheap house that I can pay off quickly so the financing part is just temporary.

But, as a rule of thumb: should an investor use the 50% rule, and a full mortgage of 20 or 30 year? and project cashflow wanted, with those financing cost numbers? or assume some cash down? this part of the equation was never fully clear to me....

Post: 50% rule question

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

@Brie Schmidt  @Simon W. 

I use the 50% rule myself. But one question, if your property is supposed to cashflow using the 50% rule WITH a mortgage/financing. then What kind of financing is an investor supposed to use as part of this? must cashflow using a 30yr mortgage? 20yr mortgage?

I bought a 30k house under an existing interest only LOC. I anticipate cashflowing around $200/month using the 50% rule and my interest only LOC. plan is just to pay down the principle out of pocket overtime. With a Mortgage it wouldnt cashflow. What do you use?

Post: what would you do with 10k

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

I would buy shares of an ETF that follows oil prices. 

you guys seeing this, oil is crazy cheap right now!!?  

Post: Should I evict??

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85
Originally posted by @Shane Waller:

So one of my renters are over a month past due w/ $375 plus are now 10 days past due for this month. Total amount owed now is $975. They promised to pay total amount due on 9/12, but I still not heard from them. I have sent a text to ask if they have the money and they have not responded. Should continue to contact them and try to get any portion of what's due? Or just go ahead and pursue eviction Monday? Looking for options to try and work it out b/c at least they keep things clean. But this is becoming a habit every month w/ them being later and later.

my first rental (landlord by default) I accepted the first person who walked in and said they would take it house was filthy and I was in the middle of working on it. (I was young and dumb).

They are late EVERY month, for the last 3 years.... but they always pay. The reason they always pay is because I make it very obvious that I will be at their door every night, sometime multiple times a day, texting and calling, their work included, I will show up. To ensure everyone knows they are late on rent. I get the money every time. but its work. I send evection notices once they hit about 20 days late. Ive even had it served by the Sharif ( small fee in my county). 

In my opinion, go overboard on contacting them. make it obvious that they owe you money and they have your attention. meanwhile proceeding with the eviction. make sure its obvious that you are proceeding with the eviction. My rentors are actually decent renters, its just everyone and a while they test the limits, that is when I "go overboard".

2 more years then i can sell this property for a loss i can afford to take. cant wait.

Post: Is solar worth it?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85
Originally posted by @Mark Ferguson:
Originally posted by @Tanya F.:

That does sound like a good deal. What size system are they proposing for $33k?

Something else to consider.  Don't take this the wrong way, and don't mean to derail, but unless you have all electric appliances, electric water heater,  electric heating and you use the A/C a lot, there might be other ways you can save.   I could be off base, but an average of $275 seems like a lot to me, even for a huge house. Energy $ are well spent by also looking into getting your bill down by upgrading appliances, insulating, and conserving in general. People interested in installing solar are usually better than average at conservation measures, but take a look at conserving as well. The best dollar savings will come from an efficient house with solar on the roof.

Mini-case study here:

I found in a table somewhere in a govt doc that national average energy use for SFH detached is 55,000 BTU per square ft. Converting, that's 16 kWh /SF if an all-electric house. For a 1000 SF house, that's 16 MWh per year, or $2000 per year average (at .13 per kWh), or $167 per month on average. We live in a small house and it's mostly electric. Our average electric bill is $85 per month. The biggest chunk of that comes from our electric water heater.

 It is a 7.75 kw dc.  It takes a lot to offend me!  I know we can conserve more, but our house is 6600 finished square feet.  

6,600 finished square feet........ wow, wow. My wife and our kid were living in a 880 SF house. then moved into the 2,200 SF house we currently live in, dont like it and want to go back to something smaller! lol. Do you have to put up maps with the " You Are HERE" spots on it?  :)

Post: what type of online rent collection do you use?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

yeah ive heard good things about sparkrent but their site says they are not taking new landlords. 

Post: what type of online rent collection do you use?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

@Ryan Grothe sounds like you work for them or are affiliated. can you give extra info plz?

 i didnt see info on the following on the site:

- allows auto payment setup

- costs $5 or less per month, whats the fee for the tenant?

- can set up where partial payments are not allowed

- auto adds the late fee at specified date, AND renter cannot pay less then full rent with late fee after that date ( not sure if erentpayment.com has this, doesn't look like any companies offer it though)

- can accept credit cards for a small convenience fee to the renter. whats the exact cost?

- sends auto reminders to renters when rent is late, maybe even auto phone calls? that would be great. does rentpaid do this? very important feature. 

Post: Pressure washing: RENT from Home Depot or HIRE a contractor?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Omaha, NE
  • Posts 201
  • Votes 85

I would do it myself also. 

there is value to be learned from doing manual labor yourself. besides the cost savings, you will know allot more about what things cost from power washing to re-plumbing a house if you have done them yourself. I personally have done all work on my rental. Some things its reasonable to hire out such as specialty HVAC work but for the most part. There is an incomparable advantage beyond money to doing work yourself. try it, you will enjoy the work and the finished product allot more then you think if it is the fruits of your own labor and the savings will naturally follow.