All Forum Posts by: Matt Devincenzo

Gary Clisele I'm not understanding the question here, what do you mean what point can you no longer help?

At what loan amount does it not work?
How many loans can you have sub2?
What point can the loan be called?
What is the max LTV that sub2 works?

Maybe a little more specific question would help, if you could clarify. I think the answer is you can do it as long as you've decided the numbers work (even if it was underwater the loan is already written, though not sure why you'd want it in that case) and understand the possibility of the note being called.

Hopefully with some more info you can get some better answers.

Sophia Wang I'm from FL originally and I've seen something similar to both of your issues.

The "mold" looks like it is more likely dirt and dust coming out of the register when the air is on, and due to the humidity in FL sometimes you'll get condensation on the metal register(metal gets and stays colder than everything else and small amnts of condensation form) and then the dust sticks to it. Most likely the filter needs to be replaced and that will cause the unit to run more efficiently and remove moisture better as well as remove more of the dust from the air.

The floor is wood floor going to the bathroom, I've seen buckle before when the install was done too close to the bathroom tile and not enough of an expansion gap was left. The wood will expand(esp if over concrete, which is common in FL with slab on grade foundations, since it gets a little moisture coming up through it) and the expansion gap wasn't large enough so when it presses up against something it buckles in the easiest direction: up and away from the tile. The solution for my rental was remove the transition strip between the two and cut the floor back about 1/4"-1/2" and reinstall the transition. Once the floor has the necessary expansion room needed it stops buckling.

In mine, on the one bathroom that was enough the other had buckled worse and I had to remove about a foot of the flooring just so I could reglue it down but otherwise the overall solution was the same as above.

Hope that's all it is as easy as that.

Seti,

I'm also a military member and have several properties I purchased prior to coming into the Navy. I just began to receive my BAH recently and I'm looking to purchase a house now with the investment mentality in mind as well and was looking at using my VA due to the 100% financing at 3.75% no PMI available. One thing I've been doing some research on and haven't gotten a definite answer on yet but I am 80% sure of is the VA loans are only authorized while you are an owner occupant (it can be a single unit in a multi family). If at anytime you move out and convert it to investment you have to pay the VA insurance off or refi (not completely sure of the actions to rectify). You may be better off going conventional just to lock in a low rate now that you can keep when rates rise later on. Again I'm not 100% sure of this yet like I said still in research phase but you may want to look into that some since that will definitely have an effect on your cashflow. Hope this helps and if you find out anything different let me know because that may change some things for me as well.