All Forum Posts by: Randy F.

I would add that you don't have to use high end tile for small grout lines. Much of the cheaper tile found at the box stores have a significant bevel on the edges and are not at all square. With traditional 1/4" grout lines, and the added bevel, the level of the grout can be so low as to catch a great deal of dirt. If mopped, dirty water is simply moved around to be deposited in other grout lines where it settles and dries. I stay away from tile with larger bevels on the edges, and either walk in with a square, or lay out the tile in the floor with edges butted to check for square. It's a challenge to find tile at the box stores that both lends itself to small grout lines AND happens to work with your color scheme, but it's worth the effort in the long run. Afterall, it's the planning, prep, an details that make all the difference in the end product.

There are two ways to address the dirty grout problem. On higher end properties I use micro-ground porcelain tile that is nearly perfectly square, and set it with 1/16" grout lines. I then use unsanded grout and a good sealer. The smaller the grout lines, the "higher" one can leave the grout as less grout will be washed out in the cleaning process and less area for dirt to catch. Also, sanded grout catches more dirt and is harder to clean.

The other option is to use epoxy grout. There IS a learning curve with this and cleanup requires more attention to remove the sticky residue, but it need not be sealed and will not absorb dirt and stains, making it much easier to clean. This can be used as a minor selling point as well, demonstrating that you've gone the extra mile to offer quality with the new owners maintenance concerns in mind.

Sorry this happened to you Jon! I was about to be stumped, then I saw it was flooded. Edges of laminate don't do that for any other reason. Expansion will buckle flooring and only at the weakest link, not on every board. One of my customer had the same thing happen to very similar looking laminate. The darker colors and hand scraped look hide blemishes and damage much better than others. For future reference, if one can get a hogdog dehumidifier in immediately after flooding, often significant damage can be averted. The customer I referred to was able to rent a large commercial dehu from a carpet cleaning business and you'd never know it had been subjected to the abuse. Also, when selecting laminates, look for brands with waxed tongue and grooves. These are much less apt to suck up moisture and water.

Oops.... Drawback is that most serious cooks/chefs have their favorite pans and if cOming from gas, may not work with induction. I dont think you can go wrong with gas. I like them both but feel gas will have a much broader appeal. 

1.Viking

2. Wolf

3. Advise against Thermador. Ive worked on all three and although Viking parts costs are really high, they are much better built. Im not impressed with Thermadors quality and a pain to work on.

NO experience with microwave drawers, but if they are anything like dishwasher drawers Id stay away from them!

Induction is fast, precise temp control, and oh so easy to clean. Drawback is that most seti

Im a bit late to this party, but will add my two cents anyway.

Kurt F, im more with David Niles on this one. Common sense and experience trumps the recommendations of those in the business of selling you products. It is true, that if you allow enough dry time, and properly prep pressure treated lumber, it will hold paint... For a time. Let me ask you this... Would you rather scrape peeling paint, sand, spot prime, and repaint in say 5 years, or pressure wash and restain? As mentioned above, a solid stain looks like paint but stands up better to the expansion and contraction of the wood caused by temp and humidity changes. 

As far as manufacturer warranties... Pretty much worthless. They MAY give you more product, but chances of covering labor is slim to none. And failure most often happens outside of the warranty period. And they understand only a small percentage will even make a claim. Warranties, for the most part, only mean something to tradesmen. If they DO NOT follow manufacturer recommendations and product fails, its on them. 

I wouldnt jump to conclusions and go spending money to fix anything before attempting to narrow the problem down. I have my doubts that enough water would escape the shower to make it down and cause a bunch of damage, especially when tenant is aware of a problem and has been making efforts to correct. And mopping? Do they hose it down first? 

I would temporarily caulk all the way along the floor to create a dam. Doesnt have to seal entire crack if its too wide, just a good sized bead on floor to keep water in. If lower unit tenant still gets water, you know theres a plumbing leak or a roof leak making its way down there. 

One thing I know for sure... Things arent always as they appear. 

Hi Raven,

While I have to agree with Jon, Jon, and J, I can relate in many ways with what you are saying. We just arent all wired the same, and success is not always measured in profit alone. The bottom line is that if one does not thoroughly enjoy what they are doing, they likely wont invest the time, energy, and resources necessary to succeed.

I have spent the past 35 years looking for balance. While I have always been motivated by the satisfaction I garner from what I create, and thru it, making my customers happy by going the extra mile, giving them something they wouldnt likely get from others, and providing value for their hard earned dollars, ive had to find where to draw the lines so that I can make decent money a well. 

I would encourage you to pursue what brings YOU satisfaction. And you are at the right place to learn the proven techniques and strategies that can help you find balance, allowing you to put yourself into your work without creating unmanageable risk. 

Wish you all the best in whatever path you choose!

I need to qualify my last remark. That is the case, provided its either sprayed and wet roller back rolled, or brushed. Everyone can paint, but not everyone is a painter. Because it looks good, doesnt mean it lasts good. Back in the day it was called a "journeymans coat and a half"... Meaning the painter is good enough that he could apply a heavy coat evenly enough that the amount of paint applied was just under what would sag and run. It takes more attention and bit more time, but a heck of a lot less time and material than two coats.

As Steven suggested, definitely spot prime all bare wood at minimum. If there is a great deal of bare wood after power wash and scrape, prime the entire body. If you prime the entire thing, tint a high quality, high build primer to paint color and you may get by with one top coat. I believe a good primer coat and one top coat beats two coats of paint as far as durability and longevity, hands down.